シャドーイング練習: Removing Creased Wrinkled Dent with PDR Crease Glue Tabs! | PDR Tips - YouTubeで英語スピーキングを学ぶ
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Today, removing creased wrinkle dent with PDR crease glue tabs.
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Today, removing creased wrinkle dent with PDR crease glue tabs.
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Does your front wing or fender have creased wrinkle damage like this?
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I'll be sharing lots of tips on removing the majority of this big dent with PDR hot glue crease tabs.
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All the body repair shops in the area wanted to replace this panel for obvious reasons.
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If you're a paint shop,
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I'm going to show you how to save large damage like this.
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Hello everyone,
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I'm Clark Ken, the man of steel.
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Today I will be working overtime on this Lexus 300.
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Let's first start by tracking the dent.
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Section number one, the wheel arched edge is gone.
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By looking at the bumper,
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it has collapsed over one inch.
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Section number two, the headlight sticks out over a quarter of an inch.
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Under the headlight, the fender is bent out over an inch.
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Section number three, the fender and the hood gap is no longer there.
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The top edge sticks out over a quarter of an inch.
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Section number four, the rear section of the fender bracket on the back side is pushed in.
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The door edge rubs against the fender.
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The fifth section, the middle body line is crushed and creased with blown off paint.
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The dent is deep and wrinkled.
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The dent is over 40 inches in length.
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The customer is happy to do his own touch-up.
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I am now zooming into my customized paintless dent repair tool desk.
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First tool on the list,
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PDR rods and flat bar.
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Two body repair dollies.
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Next, three slide hammers and a PDR mini lifter,
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a PDR light, two hammers and a sledge,
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a pole jack, a hustler stick,
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hot glue gun, two PDR knockdowns,
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a variety of crease tabs,
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alcohol spray and towel, 3M polish and buffer,
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a torch and a drill.
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Starting the body work repair using the paintless dent removal method.
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Wiping the panel down with alcohol,
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I am now grabbing my large crease tab and squeezing hot glue to the surface of the tab,
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placing the tab directly along the body line.
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Next, grabbing my second large crease tab,
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again squeezing hot glue on the surface.
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Now I'm writing my pull pin through the PDR tabs.
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It's time to get my flex on and begin my first pull.
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using the hustler stick like a frame rack.
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I'm going to pull at the same time and stabilize the fender.
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Removing the tab, getting ready for my second layer of complexity.
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Second round of glue pulling.
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This round, I'm running my first tab vertical in the deep crease.
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I am placing my other tab going another direction.
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This tab, I'm running horizontal.
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I have been here many times,
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so I'm just following my mental blueprint on big dents.
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Let's take a closer look at this large damage smash.
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I chose these crease tabs because they are wider and can grip and grab more surface on the metal.
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Time to get my flex on again beginning the next pull.
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If you shorten the chain you can change the degree on the angle of the pull.
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The goal here is lining up the fender edge with the bumper edge.
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These big dents come out much cleaner with large glue tabs
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rather than pushing on the back side with rods and flat bars.
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I'm going to grab my heavy-duty auto body slide him the
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slide hammer is leveling up the tab the shadow left side
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lifted quickly the slide hammer is going after the resistant deep area
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removing the chain and the pin and the stabilizing bar the fender edge was crushed
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and wrinkled it's beginning to take shape here's a couple of viewing angles
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removing the glue tab now entering the third layer of complexity third round of glue pulling
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using my third rotational set of glue tabs these crease tabs are curved to match the curve in the body line.
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These tabs will help tremendously in restoring the shape back to the body panel.
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Doing a series of controlled pulls on the curved crease tabs.
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I'm going to use my powerful suction cup dent puller.
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This is a pneumatic slide hammer,
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has over 150 pounds of suction pressure.
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This suction slide hammer is quicker than any large round hot glue tabs and it's 10 times stronger than any cold glue.
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Now getting my flex on with the slide removing the deepest section of the dent in a matter of maybe a minute.
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This suction cup keeps on grabbing with the continual airflow.
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These cups never lose its grip.
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This is a four inch cup.
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I also have a six inch cup I use for quick pulls on crushed sideswipe panels at my shop.
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I have made my money on this $80 tool many times over.
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Probably one of my best investments.
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The only drawback is you need an air compressor.
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This is what we have after four pulls with the pneumatic auto body slide hammer.
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next step i'm going to do some rni i'm going to remove screws
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and clips so i can pull the bumper
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and the headlight this time i'm going to fine tune the bracket and the outer frame Next set of pulls is critical.
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Using the slide hammer to hammer forward the fender bracket.
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This will help get the fender off the door.
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Second, pulling the fender nose out to line up with the bumper.
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Next, using a 10mm socket to loosen the entire upper section of the fender for realignment.
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When was the last time you saw a dent pull like this on YouTube?
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Hit the like and subscription button for my next PDR body repair.
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The man of steel is going to make a few more pulls with his hands of steel.
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There is additional damage on the backside.
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The bracket is pushed in.
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I will need to bring out to get the proper gap and spacing for the door and the fender.
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Now opening the door so I can do another series of simple pulls on the fender edge.
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The gap is now looking better.
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Now moving on to my next layer of complexity,
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lining up the nose section with a flat bar.
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I'm going to place the bar behind the backside of the bumper bracket and push off the tire.
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Going to use the bar in conjunction with the body repair dolly.
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Going to hammer on dolly technique to remove the buckle in the edge.
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The fender is slightly buckled outward.
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Applying pressure to the back side of the dolly,
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reaching for my plastic tip hammer and striking the buckle.
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Next, knocking down the underside buckle.
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The Man of Steel will use his hands once again.
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I'm going to press in and line up the fender and strike the buckle.
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Taking my plastic tip hammer and voila!
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Now I'm going to make a series of glue pulls with my PDR mini lifter and slide hammer.
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Applying hot glue to the tabs,
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now placing it to the fender.
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I'm leaning into the fender,
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gripping both handles and pulling hard on the slide.
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I I placed a large tab on the upper section of the fender.
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I removed the nine pound hammer from the shaft,
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placing the heavy duty hook through the eye bolt.
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The reason why I removed the hammer,
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it would hit too hard and open up the gap too far between the fender and the hood.
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I'm going to use a 2x4 as a knockdown.
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I'm going to give the top fender a few strikes.
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Next, closing the hood to check the alignment and the gap.
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Going to clean up around the headlight,
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placing the body repair dolly up against the edge.
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using a sharp Delrin tip on a paintless dent repair rod.
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This panel has a lot of micro lows and highs
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that I will need to fine tune with my remaining rotational PDR tools.
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I will make a series of pushes from the back side and a series of knockdowns on the front side.
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Zooming out, time to put the car back together using a common 10 millimeter socket.
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I'm going to tighten up around the fender and around the headlight.
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Attaching the bumper to the upper bumper bracket.
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Putting back the engine compartment trim and locking the parts in with the vinyl clips.
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the hood final step clean up the clear coat with a polish
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and a buffer now I'm ready to show you the body
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work using the paintless dent repair method let's check out the final results 해
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rar rick voodoo voodoo
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voodoo t
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voodoo
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Imm guilty
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I want to thank you
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for taking the time to watch my video.
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If you're like me, you're going to get another dent.
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Subscribe and I can help you keep your vehicle dent free.
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I will see you in my next video.
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You guys continue forging your future.
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I'm signing off.
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We'll be
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right back.
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この動画で話す練習をする理由は何ですか？
この動画は、PDR（ペイントレスデントリペア）技術を使って凹みを修正するプロセスを紹介しています。この実践的な内容は、実際の場面で使われる専門用語やフレーズを学ぶ絶好の機会です。英語を話す練習として、特に技術的な会話の文脈を理解することで、実際のコミュニケーションスキルが向上します。
影のスピーチ（shadow speak）や英語の発音を良くするための効果的な方法として、声を出して繰り返すことが挙げられます。動画に合わせて発音し、フレーズをマスターすることで、実際の会話の流暢さが増し、IELTSスピーキング対策にも役立ちます。
文法とコンテキストにおける表現
- セクション番号: 「セクション番号一…」といった具合に、特定の部分に番号を付けることで、聞き手に分かりやすく情報を整理しています。
- 動詞の使用: 動画中では「取り除く」「配置する」「開始する」といった動詞が多く使われ、プロセスを明確にしています。これにより、過去形や進行形などを練習するのにも役立ちます。
- 条件文: 「もしあなたが…」のような条件文を使うことで、視聴者が状況に応じた行動を考える手助けをしています。
一般的な発音の落とし穴
この動画では、特に「フレームラック」や「ホットグルー」といった専門用語が多用されています。shadow speechを実践する際には、特にこれらの単語の発音に注意が必要です。難しいアクセントや音の連結が含まれるため、何度もリピートしながら正しい発音を身につけることが重要です。
また、「タブ」や「デント」といった単語も、他の英単語に比べて発音しにくい場合があります。この動画を使って、実際に声に出して練習することで、英語の発音を良くするためのスキルを磨くことができます。
シャドーイングとは？英語上達に効果的な理由
シャドーイング（Shadowing）は、もともとプロの通訳者養成プログラムで開発された言語学習法で、多言語習得者として知られるDr. Alexander Arguelles によって広く普及されました。方法はシンプルですが非常に効果的：ネイティブスピーカーの英語を聞きながら、1〜2秒の遅延で声に出してすぐに繰り返す——まるで「影（shadow）」のように話者を追いかけます。文法ドリルや受動的なリスニングと異なり、シャドーイングは脳と口の筋肉が同時にリアルタイムで英語を処理・再現することを強制します。研究により、発音精度、抑揚、リズム、連音、リスニング力、そして会話の流暢さが大幅に向上することが確認されています。IELTSスピーキング対策や自然な英語コミュニケーションを目指す方に特におすすめです。