Prática de Shadowing: Broken Bosch Drill. How to repair a Bosch GBH 2-26 SDS Drill. - Aprenda a falar inglês com vídeo

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well folks welcome back to the workshop again today up on

the bench we've got probably one of the most requested type

of repairs not bosch sds drills i don't know why it is

but a lot of people always ask to see sds drill repairs probably

because they're so popular probably so many people have them

so today we've got a bosch one -off repair a gbh2 stroke 26f

and it looks have a change lever problem let's see what we can do here so right that's in the wrong position

that's actually in the position to take it off but it's installed right actually but it's not it's not going on

switch it off switch it off first

alright something going on there

she's running she's actually working mechanically because this is slipping

she's coming out of gear and the armature's just running free from the selector

and she's sounding a bit geary in there too or something right see what we can do here

to get these actually off put it down to drill mode

and shove in this red button all the way

and turn it down a little bit further the actual position to take it off is just here

so let's say that here there's like a little x section

that matches the body here has to be in the right position for this to pull out

so this isn't just a problem with selector that's actually complete the pin still on it there's something else going on here

so this is your mode selector don't know if you can see that just down inside of here there's two little bars

see down there that just comes up

and around that's your actual selector that's a big spring

that comes up around here but it's attached to this whole selector bar that slides up and down

so the pin on this just slides in between the two springs

and pushes it back and forth and

if it doesn't engage the spring can leave her out until it does engage and snap it back in again

so we take that selector and move it and see we can slide it back and forth

so it's not going over to here into the hammer section mode they're going if you force it

kind of engage the gears but it's not working right

but even over here it should be still engaging everything that's still in the right position

so this should be able to travel from the center here which is hammer drill

over here which is hammer only we slide it over here it'll be drill only

so there that should be turning the chuck but it's not

let's see what we can do here could be a sample as a strut gear maybe

maybe it's just the selector arm itself could be gone

I'm trying to thicc this out without removing the whole mortar, not too much the armature will pull out as well you see, and you have to reinstall the brushes then.

So this is your drive and this is your selector.

The selector is just a spring here so it's hooked onto this here bearing

so all this here assembly moves and it's wrapped around the bearing.

It's a plastic sleeve and there's a spring wrapped around that. So that's your pin.

when your change lever hooks onto here and as it turns it just lifts and moves us here up and down

so here we drive down this side there's be four prongs thanks to actually your drive gears

so when they're in this will actually spin and

when this is turning it'll be turning your gear up in here

and your tool holder giving your rotary mode and then whenever you lift it up then

it'll be engaging the hammer

which will give your hammer drill then we go up further then again you're not getting the hammer

but you'll still be getting the drill

so that's what's given the rotation i was thinking this might have been stripped out

or this was gone but that looks intact and the gears for

that they attach to seems to be in place down here everything seems to be in place

Your hammer width is still in here too, upside down, just take a drill onto the chuck,

just push it, your hammer width will pop out, which also seems alright.

I still don't know what's going on here, unless that's a strapped gear on the armature.

I'm just going to stick that back in here for now just to keep it clean and all together.

as SDS drills go these Bosch ones are probably one of

the best on the market they are really good for this

sort of shape anyway they are really good quality drills

but they come in different models you have the GBH2 stroke 22 24 the 26

and the 28 I think they all have an F

or a D or something afterwards the N one just means

if it's a changeable chuck or not

so that's the one you can pop off the sds chuck

and then you can put on a standard chuck

if you wanted some of the old models just have a fixed sds chuck only

which for me makes sense because these are great for sds

but they're not great for drills they're too slow

so they're not the best for the drill mode anyway they're

generally better just to have a standard one a wee bit cheaper

but chuck ever wears out it's just easier to replace the sds one with the removable chuck

but the different numbers year or powers on the motor

so they're all basically the same inside but a lot of different sized motors

so this one has an 830 watt motor the 26f i

think the 28fm doesn't sound like a 900 watt motor

so bigger motors just means it can run for harder for longer

but these is probably this 26 is probably the most popular

out there it's the best price range you know i think the 28

a wee bit more money i think it's like an extra 100 euro for that

but if you're doing something like insulation fixings or putting on drywall insulation

uh that can be a lot handier

because it's like a lot nicer drill to actually hold

and run all day long

but it's got the power to actually take it to take this out pull out

that switch first just to make things easier it's just two

speed connectors here obviously this one has been sitting in a shed

or something just put a grass in there i just have

to give it a wee clean out i get a chance

this brush holder then actually just pulls out slide it see the way it changes

direction forward reverse slide it onto the middle in between for two wee springs here either side

slide into the middle and then move it back and forth and lift it up at the same time

just give it a wee wiggle and a pull and that should just come out,

brushes are okay too.

If this is a problem where it's not running especially

if it's only running in one direction either forward

or reverse always check these little brass drops here something they can wear out

or else the contacts on here see underneath it was just these here these just pop out

and you're gonna place them for like 50 cent or a euro or something.

Very very cheap part to replace.

This time we want the motor out.

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Get a look at it from both sides here, I was going to say the gears are strapped or snapped off.

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That's working.

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That's spinning everything.

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What is going on here?

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Everything I'm thinking this is, it's not.

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can't be a struck armature put it anyway and see armatures just held over these two countersunk screws here

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you can actually cut it on the fan for them so you can take it out Alright,

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we're just fine.

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Nothing wrong with the gears.

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Sort of thinking that could have been struck off or sheared off at a stage there, but no. It's not that.

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that gear doesn't look bad but it doesn't feel right mind you either you see that

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it's moving like it's actually wobbling back and forth so there's something going on here actually

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now to get the actual drive of this out you need

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to get this here spring clip out of the way this

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here's a big literally a big spring this big foot slides in and pins this here gear down

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so you get it out just get a flat blade screwdriver underneath here and just twist it a wee bit

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get something a bit bigger pop that up pull it out the rest of the way

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get out there's your drive and your piston

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so there's your eccentric gear for actually driving everything there should be nothing wrong with the piston hopefully

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there's the problem there that gear is not meant to look like that needle bearing and then this gear and spring

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they are not meant to be separated that is actually pressed onto here so that has somehow come loose

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that is actually all that's wrong this thing so obviously

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if that's come out that's why it's not engaging as well because this

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fits into here

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it locks into this

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so that will be your rotary mode whenever you change your slider it lifts up

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so this can spin and it doesn't engage this here at all

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but then this will still be spinning and engaging your hammer mode as well

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right

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so that's the problem if you replace this the new one will be obviously pressed in further

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so this will actually slide down further we'll go further on

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and engage it that's why it wasn't going all the way

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I'm never pushed it at the beginning this seemed to be getting stuck it's getting stuck

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because it's actually pressed against this which has moved up right see if one of these here in stock now.

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Now the part we're needing is this here gear but as we can see that gear is not sold separately going away

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so the bearings available but the gear is not you can't just buy

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that on its own you have to buy it off this here toothed shaft here you have to buy

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that as one piece so we get the gear

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and the tooth shaft it comes as a kit

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because normally the end of the tooth shaft and the piece

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that slicks inside the gear wears out that's the normal failure

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so you normally sell the two together but this time it's not done

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that it's actually just separated the gear which isn't a regular failure

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but you can buy that little tooth shaft and the wee bearing housing separately.

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You don't have to buy them together with this gear but we have to do it this way around.

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So the part we need is 1617000579 and it costs around £22.

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The parts for these Bosch ones I normally have in two boxes, this here box and another one.

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I can't see the other one so we'll check this one first.

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I don't have a massive amount of parts for these here, could be down here as well.

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or it could be sitting here already

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so these here are all the bits for the Bosch SDS

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rolls this is actually the old 24 volt box all these

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bits up in here are all for the old 24 volt

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SDS the old NICAD drill very rarely would you ever get them in for a pair now

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so with the batteries that are gone we still have a lot of bits

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and pieces for them we still use the same box for the modern stuff.

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So that's your little tooth shaft.

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Hammer pistons.

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I hope I do have this

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now bigger pieces around here more tooth shafts more than likely to fail more than anything else

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pistons eccentric gear fifth shaft that's up there

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579 one in stock so this here

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because of the way it actually failed

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these parts are all fairly dirty but

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because it didn't actually smash anything these three bits just separated basically there should be no metal debris inside

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so they're a bit dirty but I'm not going to bother clean them out because it's not contaminated at all

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but there's a way that should be sitting shouldn't come out it should be pressed on the whole way

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even pressing that on you'd think just pressing it actually cured as well

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because it doesn't go exactly to the very back there's still a little bit of a lip

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I'll never get a press in exactly right press it on too far

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and then it's going to end up rubbing or something

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so fixing it replacing is the only way to actually do it correctly plus it's just not going to last

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when you do it like

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that these parts as well this particular one isn't like a

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lot of the Bosch stuff where you can just interchange some of the parts like this you could probably interchange

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and this here with all different drills this is more specific to the armature

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so as the drills go up in size

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and bigger motors this also changes

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so you can't just pull this out of another drill

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and stick it onto this

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so it's a different it's a different it's a different model

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it's not going to work same model it's fine some of

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these have straight gears some of them have angle gears like this here beveled ones

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and then the actual gear here will be different sizes as well

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so you can't just swap them around you have to use the right one for the right model

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so that has come with the kit anyway so we'll just get rid of this and we'll get this rebuilt again

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but this here was anyway damaged with contamination as if the gears are actually stripped out you would need to make sure

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to wash the whole thing out i'm just not doing it because this is basically just pulled apart

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just makes it a lot easier to fix fit this

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needle bearing on that slides on

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this here spring just pushes on the bottom and these here two parts now need to go on together

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this here extended gear and the piston you can't really put them on separately

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the spring just goes on top of this we dent this

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we nipple just to stabilize it make sure your two washers

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and this here pin are separated make sure they have them just pushed together

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and then get that onto the actual crank of the eccentric gear.

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Hook it on first, make sure it's on and push down that eccentric gear.

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It's a slack fit, it's not that tight.

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You can just push it we have, and then it's this

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pickle fork i could hold it down that's going on

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and holding down the bearing and holding against the housing

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and hooking on over here it seems very difficult to remove and fit

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it's actually not slide it under there and that'll hold it for now

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but obviously you have to secure it on so you have to prise it up lift it up under tension

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and slide it on which seems quite hard to do especially it's all covered in grease here I've thought of that too.

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See the housing here, the spring has to be lifted up to this ledge and pushed in, so you have to lift it under tension and push it on.

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See down here where it's sitting now, see there's a wheel up here where it actually holds on this side, that's there for you.

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Get a big screwdriver, push up your spring, the screwdriver under that hole and you can just lever it,

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rise it up that'll compress the spring and then because it hooks under in here

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it'll actually push it on to that slot

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just like that so that's it pushing this down it'll be locking this here gear in It seems like hassle.

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It's quite simple.

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Turn this boy then.

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It sits down in there.

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Because we didn't take off the tool holder or the chuck up on this side, the whole tool holder pipe will still be in down here.

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Should be nothing else we need to do.

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There's another little cage for the selector.

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This here is the whole selector here.

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So that should just go slit back in.

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That's it.

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Nice and easy.

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I'm going to do it with the motor housing now I wasn't planning on cleaning this housing

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but that looks looking a wee bit grubby so we'll just give it a quick clean

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and there's all bits of grass or something stuck up in here

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I'll actually just do the same with this just clean it down a wee bit so no one's getting stuck

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and since I'm cleaning that side I'll just give this here a wee wipe down as well Alright, looks a bit cleaner.

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At least it's what actually looks like we've done something on the outside.

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And here, just gonna stick a wee spot of grease.

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Don't squeeze it all in because it's not gonna go anywhere.

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It's just gonna all pack up here.

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That's just to make sure this gear has a bit of grease on it.

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Put this on the end, make sure that plit lines up.

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Get it onto the holes, press on your armature.

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Counter -shrunk bolts in for holding this on.

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Line up the plit, but don't screw them on straight away.

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Get them both started.

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because that's where they're a countersunk screw they actually self -line up this plate

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Tighten that up, the motor is nice and easy to put back in, the bearings are still good.

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drop this back in again

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Hopefully this will put the lever back on again now, hopefully there's nothing wrong with that.

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It won't need any more parts, there's a brush holder,

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these actually come with a little spring in the side here look just a little bit sticking out

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little wage that's actually for fitting whenever you buy this new

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or the brush is already fitted

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if you have to replace this these brushes will be on you can just slide it over

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but they're not engaged you actually have to push this little wage back that's just a wee extra piece of brass

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and it's actually bent across the front of the brush stopping it from coming out

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so whenever you fit these you actually have to press them out to get the brush to come out

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or you can actually bend them back again to make it easier to install this but you really don't need to.

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All you need to do is just basically stick a finger in there to hold back the brushes.

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Push them back and then this will slide on.

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Now we're getting them on make sure these two springs hook onto the two sides and you can just push it down.

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That's it.

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Switch then.

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Make sure this is turned over so that's part of the switch actually slides on.

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It's still in the middle, that'll not go on.

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install the switch then pull it back a little bit because this is a bit of a tight squeeze

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side one's a bit awkward top one just slides on

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this just sits in here to that track this bottom one just hooks onto there Now,

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lastly is the selector.

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Maybe that here's not going over.

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Still getting jammed.

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Plug her on.

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I'll just run the motor a little tiny bit, until it actually goes on.

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See it won't go in on its own, it's just getting cut, a little bit of tension on,

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just run your motor, it goes straight over.

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sometimes you'd even just get away with just wiggle in the chuck a little bit

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but you need that selector over here this top hole where this here pan is going to go on

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because this can only go on this orientation the pan will be up at

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that side so you need the selector there so the pan goes down between the two springs on the selector

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Push it onto it bites, push it all the way in, push it down, and then twist it around.

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there we go drill mode hammer drill and hammer only that's where we're ready to go again

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A little bit of labour there to start with because I had a bit of grease in that piston.

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Once that gets moved around, it runs a lot better. So that's her.

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That is how you fix up the bar straw.

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Your gear selector pops off like that, or if it won't go into one of the modes, or it's not actually rotating or going into hammer mode, crack it open, check that little gear.

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these are stripped out or broken or pulled apart like this

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where the wee teeth are off the end of this here selector the sweet geared lever then replace it

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22 pound by that that'll fixture it all again these bosch ones aren't that hard to work on

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some of the makitas are attaches there's actual bits inside you

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have to unscrew from the gearbox to get bits off

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and the selector mechanism can be complicated as well different levers and pins that have to slide up and down together.

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These Bosch ones, just one boy sits on top and the other boy's at the bottom.

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To get that big spring, you just assemble the whole gearbox assembly, easily swap it about to put it back in again.

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Make it very easy to do

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because you can do it all by the flat head screwdriver to re -engage that big spring.

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Let's re -test now, make sure she hammers.

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lovely hammering exactly like it expected to be careful

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if you do put extra grease on that piston

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and you put the hammer weight on top

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if you put on too much that'll not hammer straight away sometimes it'll be too compacted

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so as it tries the hammer the grease is stopping it

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so it'll give you a really really hard hammer you wouldn't even be able to hold the machine

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and hold it against the work surface it'll just keep bouncing off it does

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that there just persevere put a bit of pressure on the chisel as you're putting it on

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and just put a bit of light pressure on keep running it

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and then slowly just increase the pressure then you'll feel the

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hammer actually start to get a bit more spongy go on

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fully then you feel it start hammering correctly that's only

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if you put too much heavy grease under

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that there piston it'll eventually come out and run again within a few seconds

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if not just about a minute that's it that's one power stroll up

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and running again hammering like it should and not all

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that expensive to fix and very easy to do yourself anyway folks as always thanks for watching

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if you're liking the tour repair videos make sure to drop us a like

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and a follow down below if you want to help out the channel make sure to that hype button as well.

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Until next time, chat to you later.

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Cheers!

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Esse vídeo sobre conserto de furadeira é uma oportunidade incrível para treinar sua shadowspeak! A linguagem é informal, cheia de expressões cotidianas usadas em oficinas, o que reflete situações reais. Ao imitar o falante, você aprende a falar com fluidez, a usar conectivos como "well folks" e "let's see" e a se comunicar de forma clara em contextos práticos. Além disso, a variedade de termos técnicos (como "selector", "gear" e "armature") expande seu vocabulário específico, essencial para quem quer se sair bem em conversas profissionais ou hobbies. Aprender inglês com vídeos assim torna o estudo dinâmico e útil!

Gramática e expressões no contexto

"let's see what we can do here": A estrutura "let's + verbo" é super comum para propor ações de forma colaborativa. Pratique-a para convidar alguém a participar de uma tarefa, como "let's try again" ou "let's fix this".
"she's running, she's actually working mechanically": O uso de "she" para se referir a objetos (como máquinas) é uma característica da língua inglesa, mostrando afeto ou familiaridade. Note como o verbo "is + gerúndio" (present continuous) descreve ações em andamento.
"could be a sample as a strut gear maybe": A expressão "could be" indica possibilidade, útil para fazer suposições. Combine-a com "maybe" para deixar a fala mais natural, como "it could be a problem with the battery maybe".

Armadilhas de pronúncia comuns

Algumas palavras no vídeo podem ser desafiadoras. Por exemplo, "selector" (seletor) tem a sílaba tônica na primeira parte: "se-LEC-tor", não "SE-lector". "armature" (armadura) é pronunciada "AR-ma-tchu", com o "tch" suave no final. Outra trapaça é a contração "she's" (she is), que soa como "shiz" em conversação rápida. Para dominar essas nuances, use o shadow speech: reproduza o vídeo, pause e imite a pronúncia, focando na entonação e no ritmo. Com prática, essas palavras ficarão naturais!

Gramática neste vídeo

As estruturas que o falante mais usa, com as palavras exatas do vídeo:

Estrutura	No vídeo
Frases condicionais if + oração, will/would + verbo — uma condição e seu resultado	if you put on too much that'll not
Voz passiva be + particípio passado — o foco está no que acontece, não em quem faz	have been stripped · are strapped · have been struck
Present perfect have/has + particípio passado — uma ação passada que ainda importa agora	has moved · has come · I've thought
Orações relativas who / which + oração — informação extra sobre uma pessoa ou coisa	here which is · this which has

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Técnica de shadowing: leia o guia completo passo a passo →

Prática de Shadowing: Broken Bosch Drill. How to repair a Bosch GBH 2-26 SDS Drill. - Aprenda a falar inglês com vídeo

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