Prática de Shadowing: Formulation and Chemistry behind an Eyebrow Gel product #cosmeticFormulation - Aprenda a falar inglês com vídeo

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today I'm not just giving you a professional eyebrow gel formula for free

but I'm also going to show you how to formulate it from scratch

and I'm gonna walk you through the production process

because honestly it is one of those products

that can be surprisingly easy to make money with hello guys

you have probably seen people online making making an eyebrow gel with mixing petroleum jelly with a few ingredients

and technically they are not wrong they have made something that can hold the eyebrow hairs.

But that is not just how the industry works.

Because for this product, we need the right viscosity, enough hold, a flexible film, a good clarity, an acceptable drying time,

and a reliable preservation, all without turning the eyebrows into a flaky, crunchy mess.

For this formulation, I'm going to work with the 100 gram batch

because it is large enough to weigh most ingredients with a reasonable accuracy

and still small enough to minimize the waste

and you can use basic equipment it also makes the calculations

very easy for example in a 100 gram batch the numerical percentage of an ingredient matches its weight in grams so

if the formula has two percent pvp you add two grams

of pvp for any other batch size this is the formulation i don't know how i'm gonna edit this

so maybe this is the formulation of course the scaling up

isn't always as simple as multiplying every ingredient a larger batch

may require different mixing speed mixing times equipment in polar geometry

and even a modified order of addition today I'm going to

use basic equipments for example I'm going to use a balance three beakers a magnetic stir a magnetic bar

and pH strips this formula is valuable because it contains 92 .8 % water,

and water is cheap, which makes this formula cost -effective.

On the other hand, this formula has lots of water, so it makes it an easy target for microbial growth, but we will deal with it later.

For the first step, we need to build the structure.

So let's begin.

I'm starting with deionized water.

Tap water may contain minerals like calcium or magnesium that can affect carbomere viscosity.

Just never use them in your formulations.

I'm dividing the water between two beakers.

The first beaker is for the carbomer dispersion and the second one is for dissolving PVP.

We prepared them separately so they would have enough space to disperse or dissolve without interfering each other.

And the first challenge begins with only 0 .2 grams of carbomer.

Have you ever added a powder to water and ended up with lumps that refuse to disappear?

carbomer annoyingly can do the exact same thing.

I'm slowly sprinkling 0 .2 grams of carbomer across the surface of the water instead of dropping it into one spot.

If I do, the outside of the powder can hydrate very quickly

and form a gel layer around the dry material trapped inside.

Formulators often call these clumps fish eyes and despite the cute name, they are paying the ass.

So I'm adding the powder gradually and i'm also keeping the mixing control

if the mixing is too slow the powder may remain on the surface

or collect in one area but

if i create a deep vortex the carbomer can be pulled into the water too quickly

and i may introduce a lot of air

that air becomes even harder to remove after the gel thickens at this stage the carbomer is being dispersed

and hydrated but it has not been neutralized yet.

Carbomer has three phases actually.

Dispersion distributes the particles through the water.

Hydration allows the particles to become fully wetted and neutralization comes later

and causes the polymer chains to expand creating most of the final viscosity.

The reason we only use 0 .2 grams of carbomer is that it absorbs a large amount of water.

After neutralization though, its polymer chains expand to form a three -dimensional network in the liquid.

That network is what turns this thin dispersion into a gel.

For a clear high viscosity product, carbomer 940 or carbomer 980 can be a reasonable starting point,

depending on the supplier or the complete formulation though.

For now, I'm allowing this phase to hydrate while we prepare the ingredient responsible for actual eyebrow hole.

In the second beaker, I add 2 grams of PVP to the water.

PVP is the main film former in this formula, so this is how it works when you apply the finished gel.

The water begins to evaporate and the PVP remains behind and forms a thin film around the eyebrow hairs.

Carbomer helps the product stay inside the bottle and PVP helps it stay on your eyebrows.

I'm using 2 % PvP, though a range of 1 .5 to 2 .5 could be evaluated depending on the product type you want.

You may assume more PvP would automatically give us better hold, but if the concentration is too high, the dry film can become rigid and brittle,

and when the eyebrows move or when someone touches them, the film can crack into white flakes, which is horrible.

Later if this formula needs a stronger hold, I wouldn't immediately add a large amount of extra pvp i might evaluate a different pvp grade

or combine it with another film former vpva co -polymer for example may create a stronger

or more water resistant performance i'm adding it gradually under control

mixing dumping a large amount onto the water can lead to slow wetting agglomeration foam

or trapped air gradual addition gives the water better access to polymer and helps it dissolve more uniformly.

Our PVP solution is now clear and uniform and the carbomer phase still looks surprisingly thin.

No hard feelings though, that was expected.

Now, we are going to activate the sickening behavior.

This is the most satisfying part of the process.

As we gradually increase the pH, the acidic groups along the polymer become ionized.

The polymer chains begin to repel one another and make the liquid start becoming a gel.

In this formulation, we can use a suitable neutralizer such as 3 -ethanol amine or TEA or a diluted sodium hydroxide solution.

If a 10 % sodium hydroxide solution is used, just always add sodium hydroxide slowly to the water.

Remember that.

For this batch, I'm adding the TEA very gradually while mixing gently.

Then I stop and check the pH.

This is not an ingredient I want to pour in carelessly.

Carbomer can respond very quickly near its neutralization range and it is easy to overshoot the target.

A higher pH doesn't always mean a thicker gel.

Once the polymer has reached its useful range, excessive neutralization may even reduce the viscosity or even create stability problems.

Now we are going to activate its thickening behavior.

And now you can see the change.

What looked like a thin, cloudy dispersion is developing structure and becoming a gel.

For this eyebrow gel, I'm aiming for a final pH of approximately 5 .5 to 7.

The PVP is fully dissolved and the carbomer phase has been neutralized.

Now I'm slowly adding the PVP solution to the carbomer gel.

The gel may also appear thinner when the phases are first combined.

If that happens, don't panic.

The systems need time to become uniform, to release some of the trapped air and reach its final structure.

Once the phases are uniform, we can start adjusting the way the film feels after it dries.

The next ingredient is 3 % propylene glycol.

Propylene glycol functions as a humectant and solvent, but its practical role here is closely connected to the PVP film.

Without enough flexibility, the dried film may feel stiff and become more likely to crack or flake.

But adding too much humectant creates the opposite problem.

The product may take longer dry, feel tacky, and provide less satisfying hold.

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So again, we are looking for balance.

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Propanediol could be an alternative, and glycerin is another possibility, but it can feel stickier in the final product.

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The gel now looks nearly finished, but this next step is essential.

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Because a product contains more than 90 % water, it can support microbial growth if it is not adequately preserved.

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Remember, vitamin E is just an antioxidant.

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It can help slow the oxidation of oils and other oxidation -sensitive ingredients,

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but it doesn't provide reliable protection against bacteria, yeast, or mold.

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Polysorbates are solubilizers.

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They can help incorporate small amounts of oil -soluble material into a water -based product, but they are not reliable preservatives.

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An antioxidant manages oxidation.

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A solubilizer helps incorporate oil, and a preservative controls microbial contamination.

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And depending on the formula, we may need all three, but they cannot replace one another.

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For this formula, one possible option is commercial blend of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

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Phenoxyethanol provides much of the antimicrobial activity against bacteria.

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And ethylhexylglycerin mainly acts as a preservative booster and can improve the overall performance of the system.

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And I'm adding 1 % of the preservative and mixing gently.

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At the end, look at the result.

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First, the appearance.

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The gel should be uniform with no visible carbomore clumps, that's horrible.

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And undissolved PvP.

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so that's how a formula made mostly from water becomes a

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functional ibergel instead of just another homemade mixture the ingredients themselves are only part of the work

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and the real formulation challenge is balancing the ingredients

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and sometimes the most professional formulation decision is not adding another

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ingredient it's it's understanding what the product actually needs subscribe

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if you want to come behind the scenes and formulate with me thank you guys for watching

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Vocabulário e dicas de fala para esta lição

Este vídeo tem 125 frases e 1595 palavras para praticar shadowing. A fala dura 10:31. O falante fala em ritmo natural, cerca de 152 palavras por minuto, próximo de uma conversa do dia a dia. Apenas 72% das palavras estão entre as 3.000 mais comuns do inglês, por isso o vocabulário é exigente.

Vocabulário principal deste vídeo

15 palavras menos comuns do vídeo, com pronúncia e significado:

ingredient /ɪnˈɡɹiːdi.ənt/ (substantivo) — ingrediente. One of the substances present in a mixture, especially food.
formula /ˈfɔː.mjʊ.lə/ (substantivo) — fórmula. Any mathematical rule expressed symbolically.
gram /ˈɡɹæm/ (substantivo) — grama. A unit of mass equal to one-thousandth of a kilogram. Symbol: g.
polymer /ˈpɑ.lɪ.mɚ/ (substantivo) — polímero. A long or larger molecule consisting of a chain or network of many repeating units, formed by chemically bonding together many identical or similar small…
thin /ˈθɪn/ (adjetivo) — fino. Having little thickness or extent from one surface to its opposite.
batch /bæt͡ʃ/ (substantivo) — fornada. The quantity of bread or other baked goods baked at one time.
uniform /ˈjunɪˌfɔɹm/ (substantivo) — uniforme, farda. A distinctive outfit that serves to identify members of a group, company, prison inmates, etc.
powder /ˈpaʊ.dɚ/ (substantivo) — pó. The fine particles which are the result of reducing a dry substance by pounding, grinding, or triturating, or the result of decay; dust.
gradually /ˈɡɹæd͡ʒuəli/ (advérbio) — gradualmente, pouco a pouco. In a gradual manner; making slow progress; slowly.
trap /tɹæp/ (substantivo) — armadilha, arapuca. A machine or other device designed to catch (and sometimes kill) animals, either by holding them in a container, or by catching hold of part of the body.
reliable /ɹɪˈlaɪəbl̩/ (adjetivo) — fiável. Suitable or fit to be relied on; worthy of dependence, reliance or trust; dependable, trustworthy
depend /dɪˈpɛnd/ (verbo) — depender. To be contingent or conditioned; to have something as a necessary condition
sodium /ˈsəʊ.di.əm/ (substantivo) — sódio. The chemical element (symbol Na) with an atomic number of 11 and atomic weight of 22.990. It is a soft, waxy, silvery, reactive alkali metal that is never…
horrible /ˈhɔɹ.ɪ.bəl/ (adjetivo) — horrível. Causing horror; terrible; shocking.
crack /kɹæk/ (substantivo) — fenda, rachadura. A thin and usually jagged space opened in a previously solid material.

Phrasal verbs que você vai ouvir

deal with (verbo) — lidar. To handle verbally or in some form of artistic expression; to address or discuss as a subject.
look at (verbo) — observar, ver. To observe or watch.
look for (verbo) — procurar, buscar. To seek.

Pronúncia para ficar de olho

O falante usa 27 contrações e formas reduzidas, como I'm, doesn't, don't. Diga-as na forma curta, do jeito que você ouve.

Os sons de “th”: thin /ˈθɪn/, thick /θɪk/, thicken /ˈθɪkən/, ethanol /ˈɛθ.ə.nɑl/
Os sons de “sh” e “zh”: concentration /ˌkɑn.sənˈtɹeɪ.ʃən/, dimensional /daɪˈmɛn.ʃə.nəl/, preservation /ˌpɹɛz.əˈveɪ.ʃən/, calculation /ˌkælkjuˈleɪʃn̩/, contamination /kənˌtæm.əˈneɪ.ʃən/
Palavras longas — acerte a sílaba tônica: ingredient /ɪnˈɡɹiːdi.ənt/, surprisingly /səˈpɹaɪzɪŋli/, incorporate /ɪŋˈkɔɹ.pɚ.eɪt/, stability /stəˈbɪlɪti/, acceptable /əkˈsɛp.tə.bəl/

Como praticar com este vídeo

Ouça o vídeo inteiro uma vez sem falar e anote as palavras que você não conhece.
Comece na velocidade 0,75×, faça shadowing frase por frase e volte à velocidade normal quando ficar fácil.
Grave a sua voz e compare com o original, prestando atenção a palavras como ingredient, formula, gram.

Gramática neste vídeo

As estruturas que o falante mais usa, com as palavras exatas do vídeo:

Estrutura	No vídeo
Present perfect have/has + particípio passado — uma ação passada que ainda importa agora	have probably seen · have made · Have you ever added
Voz passiva be + particípio passado — o foco está no que acontece, não em quem faz	can be pulled · being dispersed · has not been neutralized
Orações relativas who / which + oração — informação extra sobre uma pessoa ou coisa	cheap, which makes · flakes, which is

O que é a Técnica de Shadowing?

Shadowing é uma técnica de aprendizado de idiomas com base científica, originalmente desenvolvida para o treinamento de intérpretes profissionais. O método é simples, mas poderoso: você ouve áudio em inglês nativo e repete imediatamente em voz alta — como uma sombra seguindo o falante com 1-2 segundos de atraso. Pesquisas mostram melhora significativa na precisão da pronúncia, entonação, ritmo, sons conectados, compreensão auditiva e fluência na fala.

Técnica de shadowing: leia o guia completo passo a passo →

Prática de Shadowing: Formulation and Chemistry behind an Eyebrow Gel product #cosmeticFormulation - Aprenda a falar inglês com vídeo

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