Pratique du Shadowing: How to Identify Quality in Clothing (A Rant) - Apprendre l'anglais à l'oral avec la vidéo

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It is no secret that the quality of our clothes has been steadily declining drastically before our eyes,

especially over the last 10 years with the rise of ultra -fast fashion that is practically made to be disposable.

Oh my god, it's like swimsuit material.

This is the thinnest corduroy I have ever seen.

I need to calm myself.

We're gonna get kicked out. In 2021,

UK households discarded an estimated 546 000 tons of unwanted clothing add to

that an increasing population of people who are never taught how to sew

or repair textiles including a fifth of participants polled in a survey

that if they so much has lost the button they would rather buy a whole new garment

and throw the old one away with the ubiquity of low quality materials

and cost -cutting manufacturing both flooding the high street and the so -called high -end market?

How can we tell just by looking at a new find

whether it'll be a wardrobe staple for the next 10 plus years or shedding buttons after the second wash?

To help you find some answers, I think we need to go on a little shopping trip.

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today i'm going to focus on two primary categories to look at

when assessing the quality of our prospective new clothes the construction

or how the clothes are put together and the content

or the materials that make them up

because unfortunately even a well -skilled tailor would be hard -pressed

to make a well -formed jacket out of chien -chic polyester crepe.

In the construction realm, we're really going to be looking for indicators

that time and effort were put into the making of the garments.

Any indication that time -saving methods may have been favored at the expense of durability, or that corners were sometimes literally cut entirely, is going to be huge red flag.

One telltale sign that a garment has been made too quickly is the length of the stitches that were used.

This makes the sewing process faster,

saving time and therefore some small amount of money in manufacturing, which also indicates a laser focus on profit.

The longer stitches are also more prone to snagging and being cut

and fewer points of contact between fabric

and fabric will ultimately mean a weaker seam sometimes

when the stitches are too far apart the whole seam can feel really loose

and a good way to test the strength of your seams is to hold it up to the light

and pull each side apart if you can see light coming through the seam

and your fabric of course isn't sheer you've got major structural problems

that is not a garment that is going to stand up too many washes

and certainly not to any stress

or strain pattern matching on straight seams for regular patterns like stripes or checks

or tartans is pretty commonly applied even for some of the more fast fashion -y of high street brands

but any lack of pattern matching is really going to be a huge indicator of extreme cost cutting in manufacture

or just plain negligence

and lack of quality control in any case you probably don't want to be messing with

that curved seams are exempt since the patterns probably won't naturally match up along the complex lines anyway

and some more complex fabrics like florals may also be exempt

if the pattern is subtle enough not to scream at you on first glance

but definitely bold or regular patterns like stripes and checks

and cartons that will really stand out if the pattern isn't matched

and that's really something that the manufacturers should be looking for

when making a garment one should also be wear invisible zips They are fun and inconspicuous,

but they are also plastic and one of the weaker forms of zipper out there.

Especially if it's on a tight -fitting garment, be extremely cautious because that zip will be prone to sticking or splitting,

and if you're not prepared to either replace the zip yourself or take it to a repair shop, you're probably going to lose access to the whole garment.

Generally, the wider the width across the closed teeth, the stronger the zip will be.

Garments that take strain probably shouldn't be closed with something less than 6 millimeters.

Medium snug garments can get away with about a 4 millimeter.

Anything less should be worn very loose with very little pressure on the zip.

It's also really great to look out for healthy seam allowances.

The more the better.

Oftentimes manufacturers are not leaving a lot of room in the seam allowances because the closer you can cut the garments, the more material you can save to make more garments out of

but it does not give you the option as the buyer to customize the garment fit as much as you'd like.

Be wary of serged or overlocked edges.

The word, by the way, is interchangeable, but serging and overlocking, same thing.

It is one of the weaker forms of edge finishing, and it contains lots of long float threads, which once again means it's really easy to catch and to pull.

A lot of brands i'm finding nowadays especially a lot of

the really ultra fast fashion brands are trying to just get away with just serging the two edges together

and not actually stitching it first or using one machine

that does both at the same time this seam is going to come apart

so fast once again serging is not the strongest of stitches

and it's so easy for those float threads to just pull on something

and to pull right out and there's your whole seam gone

bro what's the point of the serging

if it's still shredding bro for vibes oh my god not to say

that all serging is bad it is a very fast way to finish an edge especially for fabrics

that are pretty durable and serge garments

that i particularly don't have a huge problem with is

if the seam has been serged on either side

but the seam is otherwise pressed flat open serging is not

doing any structural work it's really only just doing the work to try

and seal off an edge this also of course allows the buyer access to the seam allowance

if you do wish to make alterations at any point in the future

so it's just good practice on the part of a manufacturer of ready -to -wear clothing

that is probably let's be real most likely not going to fit everyone perfectly

and probably will need some alteration for a significant portion of

their buyer base the much more durable way to finish seams

is either by binding where another strip of fabric is sewn

around the raw edges flat felling where the raw edge is turned inside

and stitched down or french seaming where the seam is sewn twice once outside

and then inside so you have a fully encased clean seam

but you should definitely try and avoid overlocked edges on looser weaves

that are more prone to fraying especially

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if you can see little bits of frayed material coming through the overlocking i'd avoid

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that one would think that this is a no -brainer

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that you look at a garment and you know you probably shouldn't see loose threads

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but i was honestly so shocked at the amount of fraying

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and threads and bits just coming apart in the shop some little stubbles here

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and there i would think i would expect

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but entire loose like loops of thread that to me screams lack of quality control, rushed manufacturing, lack of finishing,

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potentially weaker stitching, and honestly it kind of says to me

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that the workers making the clothes are not given ample time to properly finish a garment, which doesn't feel great to me as a consumer and doesn't bode well,

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I think, for the longevity of the garment.

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So definitely look on the insides, have a look at the seams and the threads, especially around the buttons where the buttons are stitched on you

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really don't want to be seeing loose threads we'll also need to consider what the garment is made from

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and how the components will stand up to wear first

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and foremost i like to make sure

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that the fabric is appropriate for a purpose by examining the fiber content

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that it has the warmth or weight or breathability etc

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that is most appropriate for the context in

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which i plan to wear the garment this is a spandex

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suit are you kidding me it's like swimsuit material this is a swimsuit.

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Oh no, it has 49 % wool.

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Wow, that's the highest natural fiber content we've seen in this whole store.

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And 48 % polyester.

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Okay.

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And 3 % other fibers.

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What does that mean?

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Oh my god.

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What does other fibers mean?

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So a general rule of thumb is that cottons,

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linens, those really natural light plant fibers especially are really great for warm weather as well as looser weaves

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and cuts of garment.

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Wool's and heavy silks, tightly woven fabrics and tight fits are better for cooler weather.

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Synthetics?

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like polyesters and viscoses and acetates those are a bit of a touchy subject they can

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and often do look and feel really bad oh

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that is horrific oh my god that's this is wait this is the fabric

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that you get on like pillows on airplanes four percent elastane

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a hundred percent polyester don't worry this fabric is 104 something

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wow um not to mention of course being really bad for the environment in the production

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and leaching of microplastics each time you wash them

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but in terms of wearing they can actually be decently friendly

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enough as long as they are not worn next to the

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skin since polys are effectively made from plastic fibers they do not breathe well at all

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which is why they make you feel so sweaty

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and they get stinky really really fast

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so what i like to do since i'm in the practice of buying natural fiber new garments

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but i do do a lot of secondhand and thrifting

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and i still do wear polyesters that you know are secondhand

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and pre -existing but i keep the natural fibers near the skin especially near the stinky bits

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that way i can get away with wearing synthetics over top

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of the natural fibers the natural fibers can be washed regularly

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they'll stand up a lot better to washing the synthetics will not need to be washed as much

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because they won't have contact with the skin and they will therefore not get us stinky.

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A note on wools.

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I know we may think of wool as being scratchy and generally something to be avoided, but those are actually the coarser fibers that are on the outside of the sheep.

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They are, of course, the cheaper fibers that are often used to cut costs.

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This is so itchy.

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The more desirable inner fibers nearer to the sheep's skin are actually super soft and warm.

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Once again, it's perfectly fine to wear scratchier wool on the outside on, for example, a trouser or a jacket that's meant to be worn over top of other clothes, but anything coming into contact with your skin,

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we shouldn't have to suffer.

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Wool is such a good long -lasting textile.

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It's antimicrobial, so it doesn't stink as quickly, which in turn is fantastic for the garment because once again, the fewer washes we can put our garments through, the longer they will last.

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So great for sustainability, great for longevity.

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It is a essentially waste product of the sheep at this point love everything about it.

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It's also really important when assessing the materials to test the weave.

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Fabrics with lots of loose floats in the weave will catch and eventually snap, which can be very hard to fix without patching.

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And if you aren't really skilled at this type of repair, it might be something you want to avoid.

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This also includes the underside of a fabric as well, especially on brocades or intricately woven fabrics.

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A lot of the times the underside of the fabric will have a lot of loose floating threads.

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This is fine, but in this case a garment really should be lined just to protect

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that under layer of the fabric and to ensure that your garment lasts as long as it possibly can.

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Looser weaves are going to be more delicate and more prone to snagging and forming holes.

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Although not all loose weaves are bad, in fact a lot of the time loose weaves are desirable for lighter weight garments, for diaphanous and flowy things.

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It should just be noted that these looser weaves will probably need more care

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and just a little bit of caution to keep them from

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snagging the consistency of the weave is definitely something also to look out for especially in linens historically

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when linens were hand woven they were gorgeously uniform

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when you look at a linen nowadays you will often find

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a lot of slubs a lot of really thick sections in

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the linen a really good quality linen will have as few

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irregularities as possible this goes for any fabric really it could

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be a design feature it could be a design choice like a silk dupioni

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but again something to be wary of and you know not put those garments through particularly rigorous activities.

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Speaking of lining, not all garments need to be lined.

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Lightweight dresses and blouses can be weighed down by an extra layer, which actually might not be desirable.

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Nice weight trousers also tend not to need a lining, but a lining is definitely a sign of attention paid if it is there.

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And especially when it comes to tailoring jackets coats suits waistcoats lining is in

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that case essential to hide all of the structural shaping

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and the layering

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that goes into a well -tailored garment a jacket without a

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lining where you're free to see the lack of structure inside

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that is definitely bad news

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so of course we wanted to look at some ultra fast fashion shien garments

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while of course exploring the realm of quality

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so we've purchased some brand new with tags shien garments off of depot

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because we're not supporting that garbage this one by the way arrived smelling

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so bad not in a biological way you know no one's worn this it's new with tags

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but in such a heavy chemical way it still absolutely reeks

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so i don't know what is being put into these garments but

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that doesn't smell safe we have a pair of trousers from

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ye olde xian these have no structure to them whatsoever I

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mean you would expect a lot of trousers are made from wools or

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Sometimes you'll get a cotton or linen that's a lighter weight, but it will still have dimension to it.

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This just sits so flat and is so wrinkled.

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You've got your frayed threads.

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You've got your extremely long stitch lengths.

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When you open it up, it's just all surging.

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Oh, look, there's yet more fusible interfacing that is doing absolutely nothing to the structure of this waistband.

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The fabric is so thin and so flimsy.

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You're going to see right through this we have a dress

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here that's built like a swimsuit oh my god this is going to be

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so sticky and so sweaty and

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so stinky 94 polyester 6 elastane a dress like this you

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know made out of a good quality cotton would last a long time

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and it would be so comfortable like there's no reason

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for this garment to exist and it's going to fall apart i mean look at the stitch length on this

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three millimeters for this stitch Victorian stitches are like half a

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millimeter those garments they'll survive a nuclear apocalypse this this might not survive three washes

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so we have this jacket I would say you know let's unpick this let's open it up

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and see what's inside but we don't need to do

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that we the whole inside is just here well I am kind of impressed

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that they at least have a shoulder pad not

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that it's doing much

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because this fabric has absolutely no structure to it you know at the very least they have a facing

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but that's it in terms of lining

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they've interfaced the facing with the weakest fusible interfacing i have ever seen

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we've got massive serging here

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and this is all one machine here this stitch with the surge we We have a very weak button sewn on here.

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Lots of loose threads.

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This is gonna pull out in a couple of wears.

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You know, we've got an unfinished thread here.

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We've got a buttonhole that, it's just been zigzagged.

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It's zigzag stitched over the buttonhole.

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This is not a buttonhole.

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As you can probably already see, it's already fraying.

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100 % polyester, that tracks.

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Here's the jacket that I'm wearing.

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You can see that it's got a whole lining on the inside of it.

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There's not only a jacket lining, but there's also a separate sleeve lining.

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You can see a beautiful buttonhole here that's stitched as a proper buttonhole with knots on the edge

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so that when that button passes through, that edge is fully encased there.

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You know how when YouTubers are editing me here and I have to make an update or a correction?

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um i guess that's kind of that

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but this is just me in my natural habitat i think it's important to recognize

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that there are tiers of clothing

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and the affordability does not correlate necessarily with the quality you

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know we do run into a little bit of debate on price here

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because you also can get designer things in

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which you're paying a lot of money

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but you're paying for the brand recognition not necessarily the quality

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or the amount of time or labor that's gone into the garment She -Yen just

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so happens to be at the bottom of the barrel on both price and quality.

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The jacket that I'm showing in this video is a Vivienne Westwood jacket.

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It's a ready -to -wear jacket.

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So it's definitely a step up from a jacket that you'd find on a high street, but it's a significant step down from like a jacket that you'd find on Savile Row.

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I also altered it myself, so like, you know, I have opened it up and I have seen the inside.

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The point of showing these two jackets

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and comparing them is in knowing what to look out for

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so knowing to look out for structural integrity looking at the fiber content looking at the constructional details

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because you can find these constructional details in high street clothing

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and especially if you're looking at thrifted

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and secondhand things that's the tldr is price does not equal quality designer

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or brand recognition certainly does not equal quality on the inside you've got i mean there's padding in the shoulder

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but that's part of the design that

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but it really you can see it really holds a structure even

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when i haven't got my hand in it it's still holding

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that curved structure whereas you see with xian you just put that down

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and it just it just flops there's an interfacing a canvas down the front here to really help

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that front sit smooth and have that dimension that the human chest has

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and it's got structuring in the front of it to help

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that lapel really sit back like

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that instead of just being pressed with an iron it's in

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the shaping of the material itself you know you've got this you've got this felt under the collar here

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which is a non -woven fabric which means it can be shaped

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and it can be molded it's literally built into the memory

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of the fabric to be able to sit in this shape

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whereas something like this that's just been pressed this way the minute it gets washed

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that crease is going to come out in the wash and then you're just going to have a basic floppy lapel.

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It's not going to want to behave in any specific way.

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i know ethics

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and sustainability haven't really been the primary focus of this video although in many cases the issues are inextricably linked

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but it's worth noting

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that even sustainable brands are not exempt from quality pitfalls a

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couple of the self -proclaimed sustainable shops we went into had similarly poor

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if not worse quality than some of the brands

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that didn't even pretend to be sustainable particularly this one

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that we went into that claims to be the most sustainable clothing option aside from being naked

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which offended me

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so much it took every ounce of my willpower not to

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leave okay i'm gonna go on a tangent hello the second

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most sustainable option to being naked is not buying new clothes

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and then maybe repurposing old clothes and then maybe buying second hand

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and then maybe buying new clothes from small scale makers we're on like step number five already

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and we're still nowhere near the high street it is inherently unsustainable to be producing items

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that are going to fall apart prematurely especially

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when they are sold to a consumer base

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that doesn't have the repair skills to keep up with the high maintenance cost

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or even a consumer base that has the awareness to prioritize longevity

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but in terms of sustainability there are two sides to this issue poor quality items

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that already exist i think don't necessarily mean that a garment should be completely dismissed entirely.

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They still have the potential to be worn and to live long functional lives.

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The poor quality indicators are just indications of a garment's weak points

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and things that you as the custodian of the garment should be aware of

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when taking on the responsibility of owning the garment.

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It effectively transfers the labor costs skimped on by the brand onto the buyer.

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I say this to make the point that these garments shouldn't necessarily be treated like trash since they already exist.

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They can still be worn perfectly functionally

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and they do have the potential to last

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but they'll just require a bit more vigilant care than a garment normally would warrant.

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However it should also be acknowledged

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that low quality is inarguably a pretty shameful state for a garment to be sold in

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and it's pretty shameful for brands to be prioritizing profit over longevity especially in the catastrophic state

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that the textile industry is in right now i'm going on a tangent

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but a lot of the times we look at these portraits in history

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and they look so regal they look

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so different to how we look today it's not

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that they as humans are shaped differently it's the way

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that their clothes build out their human form as it has been done all throughout history the way

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that we build these incredible silhouettes to make us feel a

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certain way to hold ourselves in a certain way they're conveying

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so much about a person through the clothing and through the shaping

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and the silhouette that we are losing today

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because these mass manufacturers just cannot be bothered to put in the effort

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and just prioritize their profit over the long historic art of clothing the human body i'm gonna die on

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that hill if you're looking for some resources to learn

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or top up your sewing skills to start taking control of your own wardrobe my book make

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so and meant should give you all the tips

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and techniques you need to get started

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and i also have some classes over on skillshare

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if you prefer the visual demonstrations instead thanks once again to midas merge for sponsoring this video

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and do be sure to subscribe

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if you wish to see some more videos on textile craftsmanship

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and all the things we can learn from looking back at the history of fashion

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This is going to look like an absolute muppet in about one wash.

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Am I a man? Am I a muppet?

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Am I a muppet?

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Vocabulaire et conseils d’expression pour cette leçon

Cette leçon d’expression orale s’appuie sur la vidéo « How to Identify Quality in Clothing ». Les mots qui reviennent le plus souvent : garment, fabric, quality, seam. Cette vidéo contient 334 phrases et 4245 mots à répéter en shadowing. La partie parlée dure 24:14. Le locuteur parle à un rythme naturel d’environ 175 mots par minute, proche d’une conversation courante. Seuls 78 % des mots font partie des 3 000 mots les plus courants en anglais, le vocabulaire est donc exigeant.

Vocabulaire clé de cette vidéo

15 mots de la vidéo à retenir, avec leur prononciation et leur sens :

Mot	Prononciation	Sens
garment nom	/ˈɡɑɹmənt/	vêtement
stitch nom	/stɪt͡ʃ/	point
jacket nom	/ˈd͡ʒæk.ɪt/	veste, blouson
weave verbe	/wiːv/	tisser
thread nom	/ˈθɹɛd/	fil
clothing nom	/ˈkloʊðɪŋ/	vêtements, habits
wash verbe	/wɑʃ/	laver
linen nom	/ˈlɪnɪn/	toile, lin
wool nom	/wʊl/	laine
sustainable adjectif	/səˈsteɪnəbəl/	viable, durable
merge verbe	/mɝd͡ʒ/	fusionner, amalgamer
necessarily adverbe	/ˌnɛs.əˈsɛɹ.ə.li/	absolument, nécessairement
loose adjectif	/lus/	lâche, mal fixé
repair verbe	/ˈɹiːpɛɚ/	réparer
manufacturer nom	/ˌmænjʊˈfæktʃəɹə/	fabricant, fabricante

Les verbes à particule que vous entendrez

Mot	Sens
get away with verbe	s'en tirer
fall apart verbe	tomber en morceaux
stand up verbe	se lever, se mettre debout
come apart verbe	se défaire
keep up with verbe	aller de pair avec
pass through verbe	traverser
put together verbe	assembler
sit back verbe	se détendre

Des phrases à répéter

Des phrases courtes et complètes de la vidéo, à réutiliser dans la conversation de tous les jours :

We're gonna get kicked out.
You've got your frayed threads.
You've got your extremely long stitch lengths.
When you open it up, it's just all surging.
You know, we've got an unfinished thread here.

La grammaire de cette vidéo

Les structures que le locuteur utilise le plus, avec les mots exacts de la vidéo :

Structure	Dans la vidéo
Present perfect have/has + participe passé — une action passée qui compte encore maintenant	has been · have ever seen · has lost
Voix passive be + participe passé — l’accent est mis sur ce qui arrive, pas sur qui le fait	are never taught · are put · were put
Propositions relatives who / which + proposition — une précision sur une personne ou une chose	people who are · snap, which can · fabric which means

Prononciation à surveiller

Le locuteur utilise 75 contractions et formes réduites, comme you're, I'm, don't. Prononcez-les sous leur forme courte, telles que vous les entendez.

Les sons « th »: thread /ˈθɹɛd/, clothing /ˈkloʊðɪŋ/, synthetic /sɪnˈθɛtɪk/, thin /ˈθɪn/, thick /θɪk/
Les sons « sh » et « zh »: wash /wɑʃ/, structural /ˈstɹʌk(t͡)ʃəɹəl/, recognition /ˌɹɛkəɡˈnɪʃ(ə)n/, sheep /ˈʃiːp/, dimension /daɪˈmɛn.ʃən/
Mots longs — placez bien l’accent: sustainable /səˈsteɪnəbəl/, necessarily /ˌnɛs.əˈsɛɹ.ə.li/, manufacturer /ˌmænjʊˈfæktʃəɹə/, longevity /lɒnˈd͡ʒɛv.ɪ.ti/, desirable /dɪˈzaɪəɹəbəl/

Comment s’entraîner avec cette vidéo

Écoutez la vidéo en entier une fois sans parler et notez les mots que vous ne connaissez pas.
Commencez à la vitesse 0,75×, répétez phrase par phrase, puis revenez à la vitesse normale quand cela devient facile.
Enregistrez-vous et comparez avec l’original, en faisant attention à des mots comme garment, stitch, jacket.

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Pratique du Shadowing: How to Identify Quality in Clothing (A Rant) - Apprendre l'anglais à l'oral avec la vidéo

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