シャドーイング練習: Wiring Allen Bradley Compactlogix Sinking Inputs and Sourcing Outputs - 動画で英語スピーキングを学ぶ

- Hi, this is Tim.

Today, we're gonna talk about how to wire an Allen -Bradley CompactLogix PLC, both its inputs and outputs.

And really this video is for an Allen -Bradley CompactLogix PLC, but these principles work with any Allen -Bradley PLC, or well, really any PLC,

or really probably any electrical circuit.

Let's stick with NPLC.

And we're gonna be following our wiring enough to get started exercise using this wire diagram, which I'll put a link to in the description.

I'm also gonna put a link to a video I did on syncing and sourcing inputs.

which is critical for figuring out how to wire, not just an Allen Bradley compact logics PLC, but any PLC really.

And we go through this basic diagram and determine whether our PLC inputs are sourcing or syncing, and that determines how we wire them.

So make sure you watch this video, because this is, this is a very important video.

In the case of our compact logics, its PLC inputs are syncing and its PLC outputs are sourcing. So...

We plug in our PLC input down at syncing.

That means we'll be using sourcing sensors and this tells us how we need to wire it.

In the case of the PLC outputs We plug in that we have a source and PLC output, and that means our lights need to be wired for syncing.

We're going to go through all of it in this video and we're going to go really slow

just to make sure we understand why we're doing what.

And so what we're going to start with is we're going to start with our input.

We have our DC plus power going and it's jumpering to all of these buttons.

and then button one continues on to input zero.

We're just going to concentrate on button one to start with.

So we're going to take 24 volt from our plus DC.

We're going to go to our green contact on our button one, and then we're going to connect it to input zero.

On our buttons here, they all have a green contact and a red contact.

Our green contact is going to be a normally open contact, and our red contact is going to be a normally closed contact.

And it also says right on the green ones were normally open.

NC on the red ones for normally closed.

And on our trainer, it does plug into 110.

We have 110 here, which powers our PowerFlex drive.

It has a 24 volt DC power supply right here.

And that 24 volt DC power supply has landed on these sets of terminals.

So the left set of four terminal blocks here is our plus 24 volt.

And the right set of four terminal blocks is the zero volt or the minus.

our green contact, we'll connect it to plus 24 volts.

And then we're gonna connect a wire from the bottom of our green contact, and we're gonna connect it to input zero.

All right, and a lot of people say, OK, we're done.

We're not, because going back to that syncing and sourcing video, remember, we have to have current flow through our PLC input for it to work.

So right now we've got to wire from the plus of our power supply up to our switch.

Then we go from the other side of our switch.

to our PLC input.

But what we've left out is this little bit of wire here

from the other side of the PLC input back to the minus of our power supply.

And this is the most common thing I see people leave out on their circuits.

They call me and they're like, "Hey, I've wired all this up, and none of my input lights work." Well, they don't have a complete circuit, 'cause they've left out that minus.

And it can be a little bit more confusion, especially in the L18 compact logics, because the common is not with the input.

So we have input zero through seven, and eight through 15 here.

We don't see that common for that part to go back to the minus of our power supply.

And it's over here on the main terminal.

It's the FP plus terminal and FP minus terminal.

You need to connect the minus of our power supply to the FP minus terminal to complete that circuit.

So we're gonna take a wire from the minus of our power supply, and we're gonna connect it to the FP minus terminal.

One thing I'd say, especially as you're starting out, is check your wiring often.

So hook up a few circuits, check and see if it works, hook up a few more, check and see if it works.

Because if you hook up all of this, and let's say you short something out somewhere, it's gonna be a lot more difficult to find the problem.

You're going to get frustrated a lot quicker.

So let's go and power this up and make sure input zero works.

Alright, so we're powered up and we hit button one and sure enough input zero is illuminating.

Also if you're using our trainer and the default getting started programs in it, then output zero is also limiting.

Don't worry about it right now.

We'll talk about it at the end of the video.

So our wiring is right, but before we move on, Let's take this FP minus terminal loose, just so you can understand what I was talking about,

about the circuit not being complete.

So we've taken that wire off.

And now I'm going to press button one.

and we're not getting input zero.

So in this case we have power from the plus of

our 24 volt going to the top of our green contact

and then out of the bottom of our green contact we're going to input zero

but we don't have that last little piece of our circuit.

So if you have a similar situation where you're pressing the button

and you're sure that the power is wired right to it it's gonna be the issue.

So I'm gonna connect the FP minus back before I forget about it.

And now we're gonna wire the rest of our buttons.

And we're gonna start with the power to our buttons.

So we had a power already at button one, and we're gonna jumper that.

across the top.

So each one will need a wire tying them together.

So we'll need a wire from button one to button two, and then button two to button three, then button three to button four,

then button four to to switch one

and then we already have a power wire coming across so that will give us power

on the top of all of our green contacts.

Okay, so that takes care of getting power to the top of all of our buttons.

Now we're gonna connect a wire from the bottom of each green contact to its corresponding inputs.

We've already connected button one to input zero.

Now we're going to take button two to input one, button three to input two, button 4 to input 3 and switch 1 to input 4.

Now notice those are not perfectly in line 1 :1, 2 :2, 3 :3, so don't get those confused.

Okay, looking at our getting started guide, we now have all of our input side wiring done.

So you should have wires going on the top of all the green contacts of buttons one through four and switch one.

And then you should have a wire going from the bottom of each green contact of button one

So you should have five wires connected to the first row of terminal blocks, and we have that field power minus terminal connected.

And let's test it out.

Button one is going to turn on input zero.

And we'd already tested that, but it's good to test it again since we added some more wires.

Button two is going to turn on input one.

Button 3 is going to turn on input 2.

Button 4 is going to turn on input 3.

And switch 1 is going to turn on input 4.

You'll see a sequence going across here once switch 1 is on.

Like I said, just ignore the outputs for now.

If yours is not doing that, take the time just to trace out that wiring and figure out what the problem is.

100

Don't move any further.

101

And again, the one that I really think you'll probably forget is this FP minus terminal.

102

And let's just do an exercise to see how we can figure

103

that out because I'll show you how easy it is to think that you have it wired right.

104

So I'm gonna just connect the minus of my voltmeter to one of my minus terminals, which would be typically how I really do troubleshoot.

105

And then I'm going to set my voltmeter to DC volts.

106

See if we can set that in there.

107

Bye.

108

And we're going to take this FP minus terminal off again.

109

Now, when we press our buttons, none of them work.

110

But when we go to test here, we have 24 volt at the top of our contact.

111

We also have 24 volt when we press our contact.

112

And even if we take a wire and we slide it right down beside of that terminal, because it's a little tight to get your voltmeter on,

113

the button and we have 24 volt at our terminal.

114

The issue is I'm taking my voltmeter and testing right here at this minus terminal and I'm testing to here, to here and to here.

115

I'm not actually testing across this PLC input.

116

That's where you really have to check at.

117

So since it's the FP minus terminal, if I remove my voltmeter from the minus,

118

and I connect it over here to the FP minus terminal, can you be my assistant for a second?

119

Can you come over and hold that? on button one.

120

I had to get my better half note, what do you want to be called?

121

Yeah, I'm better.

122

I have to get Amber to come help me out on this, but if I check between FP minus and Bye.

123

And button one I don't get anything, I get like 0 .3 volts.

124

So I don't have power across that PLC input.

125

That is the important part, is making sure that that last little bit of circuit is connected.

126

Thank you, my lovely assistant.

127

If you follow that part of the exercise, then make sure that you put your FP minus back on again, because as we play with these,

128

it's really easy to forget to reconnect something.

129

So let's do one last check.

130

Yeah, button one, button two, button three, button four, switch one.

131

So we're good and we're ready to go to our output.

132

So the outputs are on the right hand side of our diagram.

133

and you're gonna see this common going between all of our lights.

134

And in this case, it's going to the minus DC.

135

So looking at our diagram, that's gonna be this connection on this side.

136

So let's go ahead and do that.

137

So we're gonna get a jumper wire from light one to light two, then from light two to light three, then from light three to light four,

138

and then from light four over here to the minus of our power supply.

139

Now we have a jumper wire from one side of each of our lights, and it's going to the minus of our power supply.

140

Next we're going to connect our wire from output 0 to light 1, output 1 to light 2, output 2 to light 3, and output 3 to light 4.

141

- Okay, so at this point, we have our lights completely wired.

142

And again, just like on our inputs, a lot of people will say, "Okay, I'm done.

143

"Let's test it out." Well, let's test it out, just so we can see what will happen right now.

144

And if we press button one, nothing happens.

145

If we press button 2, nothing happens.

146

Three, nothing happens.

147

Four, nothing happens.

148

Switch one.

149

nothing happens.

150

Yeah, when we look at the back of it, it all looks wired right.

151

If we switch switch one, we do see these lights coming on, but the issue is we haven't completed our circuit.

152

So we started with the minus of our power supply.

153

We went around to one side of our light, and then we went from our light up to our PLC output, but we've missed again, this little often overlooked part,

154

which is the PLC common.

155

Or in the case of the compact logics, it's gonna be the FP plus terminal.

156

And that's right above that FP minus terminal over here on the power strip.

157

So we'll connect a wire from FP plus to the positive of our power supply.

158

And now when we press button one, nothing happens.

159

Bye.

160

Well, it looks like we have a learning opportunity.

161

So let's see where I went wrong.

162

So at this point, In between our FP plus and our FP minus, we should have 24 volt and we do.

163

All right, so when I switch button one, I am seeing the input go on.

164

I'm seeing an output.

165

So let's check across light one.

166

And we have no power.

167

So my guess is there's something wrong with my comments.

168

I'm just going to go from the plus 24 and I'm gonna check this light.

169

Oh, we have 24 volt there.

170

Okay, so if you've been following me exactly how I went in this video, then yours is wrong too.

171

And the issue is I'm looking over this table and I can't really see what I'm doing.

172

And I put all these output wires to the second row, So we need to move them over to this third row,

173

which is output 0 through 7.

174

So we'll just shift these wires over to the third row.

175

There, proof positive I make mistakes.

176

Let's try it again.

177

Now that we have them hooked on the right outputs, we press button one and the green light illuminates.

178

We press button two and the yellow light illuminates.

179

We press button three, the red light illuminates.

180

We press button 4, the blue light illuminates, and we switch switch 1 and it goes through this sequence of lights.

181

And if it does all this, then your trainer is wired right.

182

Now, that is if you bought one of our trainers that comes with the Getting Started program.

183

I'll put the getting started program down in the description.

184

That way you can put it in yours if you didn't buy it from us.

185

Now, if yours doesn't do this, then don't get frustrated.

186

Use it as like, like I just did a learning opportunity to figure out

187

what you did wrong because those are things that you'll run into out in the field.

188

And that's one reason our trainers don't come pre -wired.

189

It's just, yeah, we want you to learn programming, but the bulk of your problems will not be in the PLC.

190

They will actually be in your wiring.

191

So this exercise right here is really good for getting a firm understanding not only on how to wire a PLC, but also how to troubleshoot the wiring.

192

Now make sure you do watch the sinking and sourcing video that I have a link to down in the description.

193

It'll be really important as you move along trying to figure out how to wire a PLC your PLC inputs and outputs.

194

One other thing I just thought of is you may be looking at this and saying, boy, that's really a mess.

195

Well, you can take yours and you could cut yours and make them really neat.

196

Your trainer came with plenty of wire.

197

I don't do it because I may take this trainer apart and put it back together 10 times in a day, depending on what exercises we're doing.

198

I think that about finishes up this video.

199

Please like this video and subscribe because we are putting out a whole series on Studio 5000.

200

In fact, we put out at least one video a week.

201

Put in the comments any questions you have or suggestions for videos.

202

We're always looking for great ideas.

203

Till next time.

204

Hey buddy, how was your day?

205

- What's up?

206

What's going on?

207

Um, no. Nothing like it.

208

Science Fair project.

209

What are you thinking?

210

I really like the idea of seeing if digested waves can produce electricity.

211

Wow.

212

So there you go, we may do a science for a video on.

213

how to take digesting waste and produce electricity.

214

That would be a great idea.

215

All right, we'll brainstorm more on it.

216

Daddy, you want to know something cool?

217

I got an 84 and a test in math!

218

How do you get an 84 in math?

219

The 90 .1 in the gradebook, I got an 84 in the test.

220

That's good!

221

That's bad!

222

That's good.

223

That's bad.

224

C would be bad.

225

A B is good.

226

A 100 is what you should get in math.

227

We get B's in English, not in math.

228

I have a bunch of for A in English.

229

Hey, this is Tim.

230

And this is Amber of TW Controls.

231

We run the Automation Store.

232

Hey, thanks for finding our channel!

233

Here's a playlist with some similar videos.

234

And YouTube thinks you'll like this video.

235

Please like our video and subscribe to our channel.

236

And if our videos have helped you make some money and you're not using our products, please consider supporting us on Patreon.

237

Till next time.

238

See ya!

シャドーイングとは？英語上達に効果的な理由

シャドーイング（Shadowing）は、もともとプロの通訳者養成プログラムで開発された言語学習法で、多言語習得者として知られるDr. Alexander Arguelles によって広く普及されました。方法はシンプルですが非常に効果的：ネイティブスピーカーの英語を聞きながら、1〜2秒の遅延で声に出してすぐに繰り返す——まるで「影（shadow）」のように話者を追いかけます。文法ドリルや受動的なリスニングと異なり、シャドーイングは脳と口の筋肉が同時にリアルタイムで英語を処理・再現することを強制します。研究により、発音精度、抑揚、リズム、連音、リスニング力、そして会話の流暢さが大幅に向上することが確認されています。IELTSスピーキング対策や自然な英語コミュニケーションを目指す方に特におすすめです。

シャドーイング練習: Wiring Allen Bradley Compactlogix Sinking Inputs and Sourcing Outputs - 動画で英語スピーキングを学ぶ

このレッスンについて

重要な語彙とフレーズ

練習のアドバイス

シャドーイングとは？英語上達に効果的な理由