Pratique du Shadowing: Wiring Allen Bradley Compactlogix Sinking Inputs and Sourcing Outputs - Apprendre l'anglais à l'oral avec la vidéo
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- Hi, this is Tim.
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Today, we're gonna talk about how to wire an Allen -Bradley CompactLogix PLC, both its inputs and outputs.
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And really this video is for an Allen -Bradley CompactLogix PLC, but these principles work with any Allen -Bradley PLC, or well, really any PLC,
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or really probably any electrical circuit.
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Let's stick with NPLC.
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And we're gonna be following our wiring enough to get started exercise using this wire diagram, which I'll put a link to in the description.
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I'm also gonna put a link to a video I did on syncing and sourcing inputs.
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which is critical for figuring out how to wire, not just an Allen Bradley compact logics PLC, but any PLC really.
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And we go through this basic diagram and determine whether our PLC inputs are sourcing or syncing, and that determines how we wire them.
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So make sure you watch this video, because this is, this is a very important video.
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In the case of our compact logics, its PLC inputs are syncing and its PLC outputs are sourcing. So...
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We plug in our PLC input down at syncing.
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That means we'll be using sourcing sensors and this tells us how we need to wire it.
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In the case of the PLC outputs We plug in that we have a source and PLC output, and that means our lights need to be wired for syncing.
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We're going to go through all of it in this video and we're going to go really slow
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just to make sure we understand why we're doing what.
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And so what we're going to start with is we're going to start with our input.
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We have our DC plus power going and it's jumpering to all of these buttons.
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and then button one continues on to input zero.
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We're just going to concentrate on button one to start with.
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So we're going to take 24 volt from our plus DC.
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We're going to go to our green contact on our button one, and then we're going to connect it to input zero.
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On our buttons here, they all have a green contact and a red contact.
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Our green contact is going to be a normally open contact, and our red contact is going to be a normally closed contact.
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And it also says right on the green ones were normally open.
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NC on the red ones for normally closed.
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And on our trainer, it does plug into 110.
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We have 110 here, which powers our PowerFlex drive.
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It has a 24 volt DC power supply right here.
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And that 24 volt DC power supply has landed on these sets of terminals.
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So the left set of four terminal blocks here is our plus 24 volt.
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And the right set of four terminal blocks is the zero volt or the minus.
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our green contact, we'll connect it to plus 24 volts.
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And then we're gonna connect a wire from the bottom of our green contact, and we're gonna connect it to input zero.
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All right, and a lot of people say, OK, we're done.
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We're not, because going back to that syncing and sourcing video, remember, we have to have current flow through our PLC input for it to work.
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So right now we've got to wire from the plus of our power supply up to our switch.
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Then we go from the other side of our switch.
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to our PLC input.
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But what we've left out is this little bit of wire here
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from the other side of the PLC input back to the minus of our power supply.
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And this is the most common thing I see people leave out on their circuits.
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They call me and they're like, "Hey, I've wired all this up, and none of my input lights work." Well, they don't have a complete circuit, 'cause they've left out that minus.
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And it can be a little bit more confusion, especially in the L18 compact logics, because the common is not with the input.
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So we have input zero through seven, and eight through 15 here.
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We don't see that common for that part to go back to the minus of our power supply.
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And it's over here on the main terminal.
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It's the FP plus terminal and FP minus terminal.
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You need to connect the minus of our power supply to the FP minus terminal to complete that circuit.
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So we're gonna take a wire from the minus of our power supply, and we're gonna connect it to the FP minus terminal.
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One thing I'd say, especially as you're starting out, is check your wiring often.
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So hook up a few circuits, check and see if it works, hook up a few more, check and see if it works.
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Because if you hook up all of this, and let's say you short something out somewhere, it's gonna be a lot more difficult to find the problem.
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You're going to get frustrated a lot quicker.
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So let's go and power this up and make sure input zero works.
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Alright, so we're powered up and we hit button one and sure enough input zero is illuminating.
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Also if you're using our trainer and the default getting started programs in it, then output zero is also limiting.
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Don't worry about it right now.
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We'll talk about it at the end of the video.
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So our wiring is right, but before we move on, Let's take this FP minus terminal loose, just so you can understand what I was talking about,
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about the circuit not being complete.
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So we've taken that wire off.
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And now I'm going to press button one.
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and we're not getting input zero.
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So in this case we have power from the plus of
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our 24 volt going to the top of our green contact
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and then out of the bottom of our green contact we're going to input zero
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but we don't have that last little piece of our circuit.
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So if you have a similar situation where you're pressing the button
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and you're sure that the power is wired right to it it's gonna be the issue.
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So I'm gonna connect the FP minus back before I forget about it.
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And now we're gonna wire the rest of our buttons.
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And we're gonna start with the power to our buttons.
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So we had a power already at button one, and we're gonna jumper that.
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across the top.
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So each one will need a wire tying them together.
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So we'll need a wire from button one to button two, and then button two to button three, then button three to button four,
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then button four to to switch one
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and then we already have a power wire coming across so that will give us power
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on the top of all of our green contacts.
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Okay, so that takes care of getting power to the top of all of our buttons.
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Now we're gonna connect a wire from the bottom of each green contact to its corresponding inputs.
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We've already connected button one to input zero.
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Now we're going to take button two to input one, button three to input two, button 4 to input 3 and switch 1 to input 4.
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Now notice those are not perfectly in line 1 :1, 2 :2, 3 :3, so don't get those confused.
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Okay, looking at our getting started guide, we now have all of our input side wiring done.
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So you should have wires going on the top of all the green contacts of buttons one through four and switch one.
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And then you should have a wire going from the bottom of each green contact of button one
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So you should have five wires connected to the first row of terminal blocks, and we have that field power minus terminal connected.
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And let's test it out.
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Button one is going to turn on input zero.
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And we'd already tested that, but it's good to test it again since we added some more wires.
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Button two is going to turn on input one.
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Button 3 is going to turn on input 2.
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Button 4 is going to turn on input 3.
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And switch 1 is going to turn on input 4.
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You'll see a sequence going across here once switch 1 is on.
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Like I said, just ignore the outputs for now.
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If yours is not doing that, take the time just to trace out that wiring and figure out what the problem is.
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Don't move any further.
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And again, the one that I really think you'll probably forget is this FP minus terminal.
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And let's just do an exercise to see how we can figure
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that out because I'll show you how easy it is to think that you have it wired right.
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So I'm gonna just connect the minus of my voltmeter to one of my minus terminals, which would be typically how I really do troubleshoot.
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And then I'm going to set my voltmeter to DC volts.
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See if we can set that in there.
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Bye.
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And we're going to take this FP minus terminal off again.
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Now, when we press our buttons, none of them work.
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But when we go to test here, we have 24 volt at the top of our contact.
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We also have 24 volt when we press our contact.
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And even if we take a wire and we slide it right down beside of that terminal, because it's a little tight to get your voltmeter on,
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the button and we have 24 volt at our terminal.
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The issue is I'm taking my voltmeter and testing right here at this minus terminal and I'm testing to here, to here and to here.
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I'm not actually testing across this PLC input.
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That's where you really have to check at.
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So since it's the FP minus terminal, if I remove my voltmeter from the minus,
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and I connect it over here to the FP minus terminal, can you be my assistant for a second?
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Can you come over and hold that? on button one.
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I had to get my better half note, what do you want to be called?
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Yeah, I'm better.
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I have to get Amber to come help me out on this, but if I check between FP minus and Bye.
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And button one I don't get anything, I get like 0 .3 volts.
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So I don't have power across that PLC input.
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That is the important part, is making sure that that last little bit of circuit is connected.
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Thank you, my lovely assistant.
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If you follow that part of the exercise, then make sure that you put your FP minus back on again, because as we play with these,
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it's really easy to forget to reconnect something.
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So let's do one last check.
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Yeah, button one, button two, button three, button four, switch one.
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So we're good and we're ready to go to our output.
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So the outputs are on the right hand side of our diagram.
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and you're gonna see this common going between all of our lights.
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And in this case, it's going to the minus DC.
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So looking at our diagram, that's gonna be this connection on this side.
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So let's go ahead and do that.
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So we're gonna get a jumper wire from light one to light two, then from light two to light three, then from light three to light four,
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and then from light four over here to the minus of our power supply.
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Now we have a jumper wire from one side of each of our lights, and it's going to the minus of our power supply.
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Next we're going to connect our wire from output 0 to light 1, output 1 to light 2, output 2 to light 3, and output 3 to light 4.
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- Okay, so at this point, we have our lights completely wired.
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And again, just like on our inputs, a lot of people will say, "Okay, I'm done.
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"Let's test it out." Well, let's test it out, just so we can see what will happen right now.
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And if we press button one, nothing happens.
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If we press button 2, nothing happens.
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Three, nothing happens.
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Four, nothing happens.
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Switch one.
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nothing happens.
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Yeah, when we look at the back of it, it all looks wired right.
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If we switch switch one, we do see these lights coming on, but the issue is we haven't completed our circuit.
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So we started with the minus of our power supply.
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We went around to one side of our light, and then we went from our light up to our PLC output, but we've missed again, this little often overlooked part,
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which is the PLC common.
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Or in the case of the compact logics, it's gonna be the FP plus terminal.
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And that's right above that FP minus terminal over here on the power strip.
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So we'll connect a wire from FP plus to the positive of our power supply.
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And now when we press button one, nothing happens.
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Bye.
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Well, it looks like we have a learning opportunity.
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So let's see where I went wrong.
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So at this point, In between our FP plus and our FP minus, we should have 24 volt and we do.
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All right, so when I switch button one, I am seeing the input go on.
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I'm seeing an output.
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So let's check across light one.
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And we have no power.
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So my guess is there's something wrong with my comments.
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I'm just going to go from the plus 24 and I'm gonna check this light.
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Oh, we have 24 volt there.
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Okay, so if you've been following me exactly how I went in this video, then yours is wrong too.
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And the issue is I'm looking over this table and I can't really see what I'm doing.
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And I put all these output wires to the second row, So we need to move them over to this third row,
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which is output 0 through 7.
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So we'll just shift these wires over to the third row.
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There, proof positive I make mistakes.
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Let's try it again.
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Now that we have them hooked on the right outputs, we press button one and the green light illuminates.
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We press button two and the yellow light illuminates.
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We press button three, the red light illuminates.
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We press button 4, the blue light illuminates, and we switch switch 1 and it goes through this sequence of lights.
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And if it does all this, then your trainer is wired right.
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Now, that is if you bought one of our trainers that comes with the Getting Started program.
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I'll put the getting started program down in the description.
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That way you can put it in yours if you didn't buy it from us.
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Now, if yours doesn't do this, then don't get frustrated.
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Use it as like, like I just did a learning opportunity to figure out
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what you did wrong because those are things that you'll run into out in the field.
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And that's one reason our trainers don't come pre -wired.
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It's just, yeah, we want you to learn programming, but the bulk of your problems will not be in the PLC.
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They will actually be in your wiring.
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So this exercise right here is really good for getting a firm understanding not only on how to wire a PLC, but also how to troubleshoot the wiring.
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Now make sure you do watch the sinking and sourcing video that I have a link to down in the description.
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It'll be really important as you move along trying to figure out how to wire a PLC your PLC inputs and outputs.
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One other thing I just thought of is you may be looking at this and saying, boy, that's really a mess.
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Well, you can take yours and you could cut yours and make them really neat.
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Your trainer came with plenty of wire.
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I don't do it because I may take this trainer apart and put it back together 10 times in a day, depending on what exercises we're doing.
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I think that about finishes up this video.
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Please like this video and subscribe because we are putting out a whole series on Studio 5000.
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In fact, we put out at least one video a week.
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Put in the comments any questions you have or suggestions for videos.
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We're always looking for great ideas.
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Till next time.
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Hey buddy, how was your day?
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- What's up?
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What's going on?
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Um, no. Nothing like it.
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Science Fair project.
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What are you thinking?
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I really like the idea of seeing if digested waves can produce electricity.
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Wow.
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So there you go, we may do a science for a video on.
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how to take digesting waste and produce electricity.
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That would be a great idea.
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All right, we'll brainstorm more on it.
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Daddy, you want to know something cool?
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I got an 84 and a test in math!
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How do you get an 84 in math?
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The 90 .1 in the gradebook, I got an 84 in the test.
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That's good!
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That's bad!
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That's good.
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That's bad.
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C would be bad.
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A B is good.
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A 100 is what you should get in math.
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We get B's in English, not in math.
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I have a bunch of for A in English.
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Hey, this is Tim.
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And this is Amber of TW Controls.
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We run the Automation Store.
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Hey, thanks for finding our channel!
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Here's a playlist with some similar videos.
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And YouTube thinks you'll like this video.
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Please like our video and subscribe to our channel.
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And if our videos have helped you make some money and you're not using our products, please consider supporting us on Patreon.
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Till next time.
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See ya!
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Vocabulaire et conseils d’expression pour cette leçon
Cette leçon d’expression orale de niveau C1 s’appuie sur la vidéo « Wiring Allen Bradley Compactlogix Sinking Inputs and Sourcing Outputs ». Les mots qui reviennent le plus souvent : button, input, wire, minus, Plc. Cette vidéo contient 238 phrases et 2923 mots à répéter en shadowing. La partie parlée dure 17:02. Le locuteur parle à un rythme naturel d’environ 172 mots par minute, proche d’une conversation courante. 84 % des mots font partie des 3 000 mots les plus courants en anglais ; le reste mérite d’être vu avant de commencer.
Vocabulaire clé de cette vidéo
Les 15 mots les plus avancés de la vidéo, avec leur prononciation et leur sens :
| Mot | Prononciation | Sens |
|---|---|---|
| minus | /ˈmaɪ.nəs/ | moins |
| volt nom | /vəʊlt/ | volt |
| trainer nom | /ˈtɹeɪnɚ/ | entraîneur, entraîneuse |
| illuminate verbe | /ɪˈl(j)umɪneɪt/ | illuminer |
| voltmeter nom | /ˈvoʊltˌmitɚ/ | voltmètre |
| jumper nom | /ˈd͡ʒʌmpɚ/ | pull, pull-over |
| diagram nom | /ˈdaɪ.ə.ɡɹæm/ | diagramme, schéma |
| compact adjectif | /kəmˈpækt/ | compact |
| frustrate verbe | /ˈfɹʌsˌtɹeɪt/ | frustrer |
| digest verbe | /daɪˈd͡ʒɛst/ | digérer |
| subscribe verbe | /səbˈskɹaɪb/ | abonner, s'abonner |
| reconnect verbe | /ˌɹiː.kəˈnɛkt/ | reconnecter |
| correspond verbe | /ˌkoɹəˈspɑnd/ | correspondre (...à qqchose) |
| overlook verbe | /ˈoʊ.vɚˌlʊk/ | surplomber |
| playlist nom | /ˈpleɪˌlɪst/ | playlist, liste de lecture |
Les verbes à particule que vous entendrez
| Mot | Prononciation | Sens |
|---|---|---|
| figure out verbe | cerner | |
| go through verbe | traverser | |
| come across verbe | avoir l'air de | |
| come over verbe | venir | |
| finish up verbe | fignoler | |
| go ahead verbe | /ˌɡoʊ əˈhɛd/ | vas-y, allez-y |
Des phrases à répéter
Des phrases courtes et complètes de la vidéo, à réutiliser dans la conversation de tous les jours :
- You're going to get frustrated a lot quicker.
- We've already connected button one to input zero.
- Can you come over and hold that?
- Hey buddy, how was your day?
- Daddy, you want to know something cool?
La grammaire de cette vidéo
Les structures que le locuteur utilise le plus, avec les mots exacts de la vidéo :
| Structure | Dans la vidéo |
|---|---|
| Present perfect have/has + participe passé — une action passée qui compte encore maintenant | has landed · we've left · I've wired |
| Voix passive be + participe passé — l’accent est mis sur ce qui arrive, pas sur qui le fait | be wired · is wired · be called |
Prononciation à surveiller
Le locuteur utilise 115 contractions et formes réduites, comme we're, gonna, I'm. Prononcez-les sous leur forme courte, telles que vous les entendez.
Les sons difficiles pour les francophones :
- /tʃ/ et /dʒ/ — à ne pas adoucir en « ch » et « j »: jumper /ˈd͡ʒʌmpɚ/, digest /daɪˈd͡ʒɛst/
- /r/ anglais — langue recourbée, sans frotter la gorge: trainer /ˈtɹeɪnɚ/, diagram /ˈdaɪ.ə.ɡɹæm/, frustrate /ˈfɹʌsˌtɹeɪt/, troubleshoot /ˈtɹʌbl̩ˌʃuːt/, subscribe /səbˈskɹaɪb/
Comment s’entraîner avec cette vidéo
- Écoutez la vidéo en entier une fois sans parler et notez les mots que vous ne connaissez pas.
- Commencez à la vitesse 0,75×, répétez phrase par phrase, puis revenez à la vitesse normale quand cela devient facile.
- Enregistrez-vous et comparez avec l’original, en faisant attention à des mots comme minus, volt, trainer.
Qu'est-ce que la technique du Shadowing ?
Le Shadowing est une technique d'apprentissage des langues fondée sur la science, développée à l'origine pour la formation des interprètes professionnels. Le principe est simple mais puissant : vous écoutez de l'anglais natif et le répétez immédiatement à voix haute — comme une ombre suivant le locuteur avec un décalage de 1 à 2 secondes. Les recherches montrent une amélioration significative de la précision de la prononciation, de l'intonation, du rythme, des liaisons, de la compréhension orale et de la fluidité.