쉐도잉 연습: Fix your Trousers Fitting Issues | Prototyping (Part 2) - YouTube로 영어 말하기 배우기
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Hi everyone, my name is Nuria and this is Mastering Journey.
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Hi everyone, my name is Nuria and this is Mastering Journey.
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And for today's video, I'm bringing you the second part of the trouser fitting issues series.
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For the last video, we looked at all the body-related fitting issues that we had before prototyping.
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And in today's video, we're going to be looking into prototyping what wrinkles appear and how to get rid of them.
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For it, I made this flowchart with my preferred way of tackling the issues so they don't create extra issues.
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This flowchart, everything I'm going to be talking about today,
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the last video, and everything about trousers in general can be found in my ebook,
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Learn How to Draft Your Dream Trousers.
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And if you don't want to make that investment,
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I also have the trouser fitting issues chapter separated and you can find it on my website,
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even though the flowchart is not included in
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that cheat sheet one last thing before we start in the last video i also covered all the pre-prototyping checks
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that you have to do like truing all the curves and the waist and checking all the lengths
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remember to do that before every single prototype to make sure
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that the prototype is correct
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but that's everything let's get into the video first things first you have to make a prototype remember
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that there are four foundations that i show you how to draft
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and every foundation will fit the body differently
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so don't try to overfit a culotte's foundation around your buttocks
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because that's not going to work just choose the right foundation
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and fix it accordingly next thing a prototype what is a prototype a prototype
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or a toilet is a garment made from inexpensive fabric used to check the fit the design
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and the construction of a pattern before cutting into the real
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fabric once you have your pattern at the seam allowances i
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normally do around one centimeter at the side seams at the the center front,
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center back, inseams and then sew it together.
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Make sure you mark all the important lines like the hip line,
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the crotch, the knee and the crease line.
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I like to leave the opening at the side of the trousers
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because the most difficult part to fit is the crotch so I like it to be closed.
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Next put an elastic
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or a standalone waistband to make sure the trousers are sitting at the waist
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and also the hem should end at ankle level to avoid weird unrelated wrinkles.
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If that's not the case just fold it inwards and we're ready to start assessing.
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Before looking at the flow chart make sure that the side seams,
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the in seams and the crease lines are sitting right.
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Sometimes the side seams tilt forward the front or the back
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and if that's the case just mark on the pattern where the side seam should sit
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and transfer it to the pattern by shifting it from the front to the back or the other way around.
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Same for the crease line
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if it's not in the correct place just go back to your pattern
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and check that it's in the correct place and for the in seams you can do the same as side seams.
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Looking at the flowchart, the first question to ask is does the waist sit in the right place?
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A couple of scenarios can happen.
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One, the center front or the center back are not sitting where they should be sitting at the waist,
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but the rest of the lines and the crotch curve are correct and without any wrinkles.
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This means the need for vertical length at the waist.
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To correct this issue, add or remove fabric from the waist.
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You can mark it on the prototype and then transfer it to the pattern.
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The second scenario is when the center front,
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center back and side seams are all not sitting in the right place.
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This means that the crotch length is either too short or too long and the length has to be added or removed.
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This can also be spotted if you put the trousers at the waist
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and there's diagonal wrinkles originating at the crotch going towards the edge of the waist.
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To know how much length to add,
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put the trousers where the crotch feels comfortable and has no wrinkles
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and measure the needed length to get to the waist at the side seam.
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To fix it, cut through the hip line and add the necessary length.
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In the third scenario, the side seams are sitting in the right place but center front or center back are not.
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Another thing happening could be that the hip line is dipping and not straight.
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If this happens you can check two things.
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First, is the overall crotch length correct?
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If it is correct it means the length has to be shifted from one place to another one.
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There is different ways to do this depending on where you transfer it from but here is one of them.
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To know how much to add measure how much the hip line is dipping.
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To fix it create a line from the inseam
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that crosses the crotch curve it's not very important where cut
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through this line using the inseam as a pivot point
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and through the hip line using the side seam as a
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pivot point transfer the length from one line to the other one this fix is not my favorite
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because it changes the thigh circumference
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and might create another issue it might be better to fix it on the pattern by pinching
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and pinning and seeing if it would help before making a new prototype the other scenario happens
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when the crotch line is correct but then the question to ask here is is the horizontal length correct too.
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If it's not, three options appear depending on where the horizontal length needs to be added.
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One, there is not enough length at the back.
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You might see the side seam still towards the back,
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the butt feeling tight, horizontal wrinkles below the butt,
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and the waist sitting away from the body.
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This might indicate the need for a full seat adjustment.
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To know how much length is needed vertically,
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measure the distance from the waist of the pattern to the actual waist.
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Horizontally release both side seams and measure the distance between the two seam lines.
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And to fix it draw a parallel line to the crotch line above the hip and connect it to the waistline.
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Draw another line from the inner knee line to this new line.
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It does not matter where it crosses the first line.
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Cut through the first line up to the waist and through the second line up to the knee.
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Add the length to the first line and the width to the second line.
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This adjustment will also change the width of the dart to account for a more prominent buttocks.
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The other option is that there is not enough length at the front.
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If there is extra fabric at the crotch,
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cupping under the tummy, the waistline sitting lower than the actual waist,
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or the side seams tilting towards the front.
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To know how much to add vertically,
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measure the distance from the waist to the pattern to the actual waist,
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and horizontally release both side seams and measure the distance between the two seam lines.
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How to fix it will depend on how much length needs to be added.
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If it's one centimeter or less,
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add it directly to the center front edge,
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and if it's more than one centimeter, do the following.
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Draw a parallel line to the floor from center front to five centimeters before reaching the side seam
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and connect it to the waist edge.
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The line should be above the hip line.
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Draw a second line perpendicular to the first one up to the waist,
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it's not important where it's placed and the dart line can be used though it may be confusing.
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Cut along both lines and use the waist cross as pivotal points.
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At the desired ease but this will tilt the center front
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and you will have to use the second line to restrain the center front and redraw all the lines as needed.
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The The third option can be spotted with pulling lines irradiating from center front.
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This adjustment is done to the front pattern piece.
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To know how much to add,
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release both side seams and measure the distance between the two lines.
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To fix it, create a rectangle shape around the crotch area.
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This is going to be a guideline.
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Draw a second guideline using the crotch line and cut through the guidelines
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and use the crotch point and inseam intersections as pivotal points.
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Add the length needed by pulling out the crotch.
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Use guideline 2 to correct the positioning of the curve and redraw the center front and crotch curve.
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And now that all the horizontal lengths around the crotch curve have been corrected,
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let's go back to the vertical lengths we haven't fixed yet.
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In here we have two options and which one will depend on the question.
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Is the thigh circumference correct?
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If the circumference is not correct,
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you can lengthen or shorten the crotch.
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This option is not the best way to go if the thigh circumference is already correct in the pattern.
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The fix consists of adding length to the crotch extension
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which adds ease around the thighs and might cause other issues in the future.
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If the circumference is correct,
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the length is added to the hip line.
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To know how much length to add,
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measure the distance from the waist of the pattern to the actual waist.
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To do this adjustment, cut through the hip line and use the side seam as a pivot point.
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Add as much length as you need.
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This adjustment can be done for both front and back pattern pieces.
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The problem with this adjustment is that the inclination of the center front and center back lines will change.
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This will cause the crease line to be very close to the center front
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and center back and can have a negative effect if you have a full tummy,
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a rectangular shape or a flat butt.
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But don't worry because I'll show you how to fix it later.
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Now that the vertical lengths are correct the next question to ask is,
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is the horizontal length correct?
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In theory, we've already looked at the horizontal length,
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but some distortion of the pattern might have happened while fixing the vertical length.
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If the horizontal length is incorrect,
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there's either too much or too little fabric.
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In this case, take in the length from center front,
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center back, and the darts.
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The other option is if the horizontal length is correct, but badly distributed.
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You will see this if the butt or tummy fit but there's strange shapes or bubbles along the hip or the waistline.
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This means the width has to be shifted from one side to another one.
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If you have an hourglass figure the center front should be shifted towards the side seam.
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If you have a more rectangular figure it should be shifted towards the center front.
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If you have a flat butt it should be shifted towards the center back
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and if you have a prominent butt the center back should be shifted towards the the side seam.
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From here on is all about checking for specific wrinkles and I'll tackle them in the order I normally tackle them in.
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Problems with the crotch curve can be spotted the following way.
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Too much depth, you'll have horizontal wrinkles around the center front
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or center back and this is called a flat pubis
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and to fix it just straighten the crotch curve by 0.5 to 1 centimeter at a time.
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The next option is if there's not enough depth you'll have a wedgie
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or a camel toe and to fix it just scoop from the curve by 0.5 to 1 centimeter at the time.
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And the third option is if you have a low butt.
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This was covered in the last video but it basically means
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that the butt sits below the crotch line and this can be seen in the pattern with pulling lines cupping the buttocks.
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Here is an image on how to fix it.
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You basically have to lower the crotch curve to go below the crotch line
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but for more details I'll link the other video down below.
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From there we move into adjustments at the inseam.
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This adjustment is needed when there are lines pulling from the inseam diagonally outwards and it means the inseam is too short.
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There's two ways of fixing this issue and the adjustment is done for both front and back pattern pieces.
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The first option is if you need 1.25 centimeters
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or less this option shifts the top pattern
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and brings the crease line closer to the center back
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so this is not a good option for rectangular bodies
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and to do it just draw a line below
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and parallel to the crotch line and cut through
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and spread to add the desired length option two is
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if you need 1.25 centimeters or more
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and to fix it just draw a line below
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and parallel to the crotch line draw the crease line cut through the lines up to the waist
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and move that piece up the desired amount.
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The next adjustment is related to the thighs.
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This is caused when the thigh circumference is correct but not distributed properly.
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A full thigh will need more room around the inseam and a thin thigh will need less room around the inseam.
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Both adjustments follow the same procedure and can be done for both front and back pattern pieces.
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I would advise you to start with the back piece because there's more room to shift the pattern.
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To fix it, draw a horizontal line below the crotch line,
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draw the crease line, cut through it and shift the lower part of the pattern by one centimeter at a time.
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For a full thigh shift it towards the inseam and for a thin thigh shift it towards the side seam.
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Then redraw the lines and it's done.
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The next adjustment in the list is for a full calf.
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This can be spotted if there are pulling lines around the calf.
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This means there's not enough room for your calf and horizontal length is needed.
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This adjustment is done for the back pattern.
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Draw the crease line and knee line.
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Draw two lines going from inseam and side seam to the crossing between the knee and the crease line.
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Cut along the lines using the inseam and side seam as pivot points.
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Spread the pieces to add width.
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This will add flair to the bottom hem and change the shape of the leg.
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If you want to preserve the original silhouette,
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follow the same procedure and draw two horizontal lines perpendicular to the crease line below the knee.
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Cut through them and use the inseam and side seams as pivot points.
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Use these cuts to straighten the hem again.
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This adjustment can cause too much fabric to be behind the knee and there is two ways to fixing it.
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Option number one, pin the excess fabric at crotch line level.
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The fabric will create a triangular shape and this is the easiest way to fix it.
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The second option is to remove the same amount of fabric from the waistline
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and another prototype might probably be needed to assess if the issue has been corrected properly.
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And here we get to the last two adjustments,
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the knock knee and the boat leg.
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Knock knees are caused by knees aligning towards each other
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which creates excess fabric at the outer line of the knee
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and both legs are caused by the knees aligning away from each other which results in excess fabric along the inseam.
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This adjustment is done to both front and back.
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And these are all the adjustments I have for today.
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I hope I didn't go too fast and everything was clear
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and as I said I have my ebook with the flowchart included and the cheat sheet with the chapter of fitting issues.
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But that's everything for today.
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I hope you enjoyed it and if you found it interesting you can always subscribe
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and like this video or re-watch it as many times as you want and I'll see you on the next one.
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Bye!
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비디오에서 사용된 몇 가지 핵심 구조는 영어 회화 연습에 큰 도움이 됩니다:
- “What is a prototype?”: 질문 형식으로 설명을 시작하는 것은 대화에서 상대방의 의견을 유도하는 데 유용합니다. 이와 같은 질문 구조는 IELTS 스피킹에서도 자주 사용됩니다.
- “Make sure you…”: 이 표현은 조언을 제공할 때 유용하며, 확실히 해야 할 동작을 강조합니다.
- “Looking at the flowchart…”: 특정 정보를 참조할 때 씁니다. 대화 중 주제 전환이나 논점을 명확히 할 때 사용할 수 있습니다.
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이 비디오에서 유의해야 할 몇 가지 발음 함정이 있습니다. 특히 “prototype”과 “crotch”와 같은 단어들은 발음하기 어려울 수 있습니다. 정확한 발음을 연습하여 대화에서 자연스럽게 사용할 수 있도록 하는 것이 중요합니다. 또한, “seam”의 발음에서 오는 억양 변화에도 주의하여, 자연스러운 억양을 연습해야 합니다. 이러한 연습은 shadow speech 방식을 통해 개선될 수 있습니다.
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