ฝึกพูดภาษาอังกฤษด้วยเทคนิค Shadowing จากวิดีโอ: Fix your Trousers Fitting Issues | Prototyping (Part 2)

Hi everyone, my name is Nuria and this is Mastering Journey.

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Hi everyone, my name is Nuria and this is Mastering Journey.

And for today's video, I'm bringing you the second part of the trouser fitting issues series.

For the last video, we looked at all the body-related fitting issues that we had before prototyping.

And in today's video, we're going to be looking into prototyping what wrinkles appear and how to get rid of them.

For it, I made this flowchart with my preferred way of tackling the issues so they don't create extra issues.

This flowchart, everything I'm going to be talking about today,

the last video, and everything about trousers in general can be found in my ebook,

Learn How to Draft Your Dream Trousers.

And if you don't want to make that investment,

I also have the trouser fitting issues chapter separated and you can find it on my website,

even though the flowchart is not included in

that cheat sheet one last thing before we start in the last video i also covered all the pre-prototyping checks

that you have to do like truing all the curves and the waist and checking all the lengths

remember to do that before every single prototype to make sure

that the prototype is correct

but that's everything let's get into the video first things first you have to make a prototype remember

that there are four foundations that i show you how to draft

and every foundation will fit the body differently

so don't try to overfit a culotte's foundation around your buttocks

because that's not going to work just choose the right foundation

and fix it accordingly next thing a prototype what is a prototype a prototype

or a toilet is a garment made from inexpensive fabric used to check the fit the design

and the construction of a pattern before cutting into the real

fabric once you have your pattern at the seam allowances i

normally do around one centimeter at the side seams at the the center front,

center back, inseams and then sew it together.

Make sure you mark all the important lines like the hip line,

the crotch, the knee and the crease line.

I like to leave the opening at the side of the trousers

because the most difficult part to fit is the crotch so I like it to be closed.

Next put an elastic

or a standalone waistband to make sure the trousers are sitting at the waist

and also the hem should end at ankle level to avoid weird unrelated wrinkles.

If that's not the case just fold it inwards and we're ready to start assessing.

Before looking at the flow chart make sure that the side seams,

the in seams and the crease lines are sitting right.

Sometimes the side seams tilt forward the front or the back

and if that's the case just mark on the pattern where the side seam should sit

and transfer it to the pattern by shifting it from the front to the back or the other way around.

Same for the crease line

if it's not in the correct place just go back to your pattern

and check that it's in the correct place and for the in seams you can do the same as side seams.

Looking at the flowchart, the first question to ask is does the waist sit in the right place?

A couple of scenarios can happen.

One, the center front or the center back are not sitting where they should be sitting at the waist,

but the rest of the lines and the crotch curve are correct and without any wrinkles.

This means the need for vertical length at the waist.

To correct this issue, add or remove fabric from the waist.

You can mark it on the prototype and then transfer it to the pattern.

The second scenario is when the center front,

center back and side seams are all not sitting in the right place.

This means that the crotch length is either too short or too long and the length has to be added or removed.

This can also be spotted if you put the trousers at the waist

and there's diagonal wrinkles originating at the crotch going towards the edge of the waist.

To know how much length to add,

put the trousers where the crotch feels comfortable and has no wrinkles

and measure the needed length to get to the waist at the side seam.

To fix it, cut through the hip line and add the necessary length.

In the third scenario, the side seams are sitting in the right place but center front or center back are not.

Another thing happening could be that the hip line is dipping and not straight.

If this happens you can check two things.

First, is the overall crotch length correct?

If it is correct it means the length has to be shifted from one place to another one.

There is different ways to do this depending on where you transfer it from but here is one of them.

To know how much to add measure how much the hip line is dipping.

To fix it create a line from the inseam

that crosses the crotch curve it's not very important where cut

through this line using the inseam as a pivot point

and through the hip line using the side seam as a

pivot point transfer the length from one line to the other one this fix is not my favorite

because it changes the thigh circumference

and might create another issue it might be better to fix it on the pattern by pinching

and pinning and seeing if it would help before making a new prototype the other scenario happens

when the crotch line is correct but then the question to ask here is is the horizontal length correct too.

If it's not, three options appear depending on where the horizontal length needs to be added.

One, there is not enough length at the back.

You might see the side seam still towards the back,

the butt feeling tight, horizontal wrinkles below the butt,

and the waist sitting away from the body.

This might indicate the need for a full seat adjustment.

To know how much length is needed vertically,

measure the distance from the waist of the pattern to the actual waist.

Horizontally release both side seams and measure the distance between the two seam lines.

And to fix it draw a parallel line to the crotch line above the hip and connect it to the waistline.

Draw another line from the inner knee line to this new line.

It does not matter where it crosses the first line.

Cut through the first line up to the waist and through the second line up to the knee.

Add the length to the first line and the width to the second line.

This adjustment will also change the width of the dart to account for a more prominent buttocks.

The other option is that there is not enough length at the front.

If there is extra fabric at the crotch,

cupping under the tummy, the waistline sitting lower than the actual waist,

or the side seams tilting towards the front.

To know how much to add vertically,

measure the distance from the waist to the pattern to the actual waist,

and horizontally release both side seams and measure the distance between the two seam lines.

How to fix it will depend on how much length needs to be added.

If it's one centimeter or less,

add it directly to the center front edge,

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and if it's more than one centimeter, do the following.

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Draw a parallel line to the floor from center front to five centimeters before reaching the side seam

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and connect it to the waist edge.

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The line should be above the hip line.

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Draw a second line perpendicular to the first one up to the waist,

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it's not important where it's placed and the dart line can be used though it may be confusing.

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Cut along both lines and use the waist cross as pivotal points.

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At the desired ease but this will tilt the center front

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and you will have to use the second line to restrain the center front and redraw all the lines as needed.

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The The third option can be spotted with pulling lines irradiating from center front.

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This adjustment is done to the front pattern piece.

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To know how much to add,

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release both side seams and measure the distance between the two lines.

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To fix it, create a rectangle shape around the crotch area.

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This is going to be a guideline.

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Draw a second guideline using the crotch line and cut through the guidelines

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and use the crotch point and inseam intersections as pivotal points.

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Add the length needed by pulling out the crotch.

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Use guideline 2 to correct the positioning of the curve and redraw the center front and crotch curve.

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And now that all the horizontal lengths around the crotch curve have been corrected,

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let's go back to the vertical lengths we haven't fixed yet.

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In here we have two options and which one will depend on the question.

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Is the thigh circumference correct?

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If the circumference is not correct,

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you can lengthen or shorten the crotch.

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This option is not the best way to go if the thigh circumference is already correct in the pattern.

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The fix consists of adding length to the crotch extension

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which adds ease around the thighs and might cause other issues in the future.

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If the circumference is correct,

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the length is added to the hip line.

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To know how much length to add,

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measure the distance from the waist of the pattern to the actual waist.

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To do this adjustment, cut through the hip line and use the side seam as a pivot point.

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Add as much length as you need.

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This adjustment can be done for both front and back pattern pieces.

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The problem with this adjustment is that the inclination of the center front and center back lines will change.

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This will cause the crease line to be very close to the center front

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and center back and can have a negative effect if you have a full tummy,

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a rectangular shape or a flat butt.

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But don't worry because I'll show you how to fix it later.

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Now that the vertical lengths are correct the next question to ask is,

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is the horizontal length correct?

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In theory, we've already looked at the horizontal length,

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but some distortion of the pattern might have happened while fixing the vertical length.

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If the horizontal length is incorrect,

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there's either too much or too little fabric.

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In this case, take in the length from center front,

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center back, and the darts.

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The other option is if the horizontal length is correct, but badly distributed.

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You will see this if the butt or tummy fit but there's strange shapes or bubbles along the hip or the waistline.

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This means the width has to be shifted from one side to another one.

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If you have an hourglass figure the center front should be shifted towards the side seam.

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If you have a more rectangular figure it should be shifted towards the center front.

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If you have a flat butt it should be shifted towards the center back

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and if you have a prominent butt the center back should be shifted towards the the side seam.

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From here on is all about checking for specific wrinkles and I'll tackle them in the order I normally tackle them in.

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Problems with the crotch curve can be spotted the following way.

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Too much depth, you'll have horizontal wrinkles around the center front

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or center back and this is called a flat pubis

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and to fix it just straighten the crotch curve by 0.5 to 1 centimeter at a time.

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The next option is if there's not enough depth you'll have a wedgie

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or a camel toe and to fix it just scoop from the curve by 0.5 to 1 centimeter at the time.

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And the third option is if you have a low butt.

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This was covered in the last video but it basically means

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that the butt sits below the crotch line and this can be seen in the pattern with pulling lines cupping the buttocks.

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Here is an image on how to fix it.

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You basically have to lower the crotch curve to go below the crotch line

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but for more details I'll link the other video down below.

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From there we move into adjustments at the inseam.

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This adjustment is needed when there are lines pulling from the inseam diagonally outwards and it means the inseam is too short.

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There's two ways of fixing this issue and the adjustment is done for both front and back pattern pieces.

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The first option is if you need 1.25 centimeters

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or less this option shifts the top pattern

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and brings the crease line closer to the center back

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so this is not a good option for rectangular bodies

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and to do it just draw a line below

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and parallel to the crotch line and cut through

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and spread to add the desired length option two is

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if you need 1.25 centimeters or more

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and to fix it just draw a line below

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and parallel to the crotch line draw the crease line cut through the lines up to the waist

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and move that piece up the desired amount.

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The next adjustment is related to the thighs.

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This is caused when the thigh circumference is correct but not distributed properly.

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A full thigh will need more room around the inseam and a thin thigh will need less room around the inseam.

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Both adjustments follow the same procedure and can be done for both front and back pattern pieces.

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I would advise you to start with the back piece because there's more room to shift the pattern.

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To fix it, draw a horizontal line below the crotch line,

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draw the crease line, cut through it and shift the lower part of the pattern by one centimeter at a time.

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For a full thigh shift it towards the inseam and for a thin thigh shift it towards the side seam.

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Then redraw the lines and it's done.

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The next adjustment in the list is for a full calf.

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This can be spotted if there are pulling lines around the calf.

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This means there's not enough room for your calf and horizontal length is needed.

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This adjustment is done for the back pattern.

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Draw the crease line and knee line.

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Draw two lines going from inseam and side seam to the crossing between the knee and the crease line.

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Cut along the lines using the inseam and side seam as pivot points.

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Spread the pieces to add width.

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This will add flair to the bottom hem and change the shape of the leg.

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If you want to preserve the original silhouette,

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follow the same procedure and draw two horizontal lines perpendicular to the crease line below the knee.

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Cut through them and use the inseam and side seams as pivot points.

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Use these cuts to straighten the hem again.

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This adjustment can cause too much fabric to be behind the knee and there is two ways to fixing it.

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Option number one, pin the excess fabric at crotch line level.

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The fabric will create a triangular shape and this is the easiest way to fix it.

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The second option is to remove the same amount of fabric from the waistline

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and another prototype might probably be needed to assess if the issue has been corrected properly.

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And here we get to the last two adjustments,

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the knock knee and the boat leg.

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Knock knees are caused by knees aligning towards each other

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which creates excess fabric at the outer line of the knee

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and both legs are caused by the knees aligning away from each other which results in excess fabric along the inseam.

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This adjustment is done to both front and back.

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And these are all the adjustments I have for today.

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I hope I didn't go too fast and everything was clear

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and as I said I have my ebook with the flowchart included and the cheat sheet with the chapter of fitting issues.

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But that's everything for today.

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I hope you enjoyed it and if you found it interesting you can always subscribe

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and like this video or re-watch it as many times as you want and I'll see you on the next one.

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Bye!

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