Prática de Shadowing: Fix your Trousers Fitting Issues | Prototyping (Part 2) - Aprenda a falar inglês com o YouTube
C1
Hi everyone, my name is Nuria and this is Mastering Journey.
221 frases
Se as frases estiverem muito curtas ou longas, clique em Edit para ajustá-las.
1
Hi everyone, my name is Nuria and this is Mastering Journey.
2
And for today's video, I'm bringing you the second part of the trouser fitting issues series.
3
For the last video, we looked at all the body-related fitting issues that we had before prototyping.
4
And in today's video, we're going to be looking into prototyping what wrinkles appear and how to get rid of them.
5
For it, I made this flowchart with my preferred way of tackling the issues so they don't create extra issues.
6
This flowchart, everything I'm going to be talking about today,
7
the last video, and everything about trousers in general can be found in my ebook,
8
Learn How to Draft Your Dream Trousers.
9
And if you don't want to make that investment,
10
I also have the trouser fitting issues chapter separated and you can find it on my website,
11
even though the flowchart is not included in
12
that cheat sheet one last thing before we start in the last video i also covered all the pre-prototyping checks
13
that you have to do like truing all the curves and the waist and checking all the lengths
14
remember to do that before every single prototype to make sure
15
that the prototype is correct
16
but that's everything let's get into the video first things first you have to make a prototype remember
17
that there are four foundations that i show you how to draft
18
and every foundation will fit the body differently
19
so don't try to overfit a culotte's foundation around your buttocks
20
because that's not going to work just choose the right foundation
21
and fix it accordingly next thing a prototype what is a prototype a prototype
22
or a toilet is a garment made from inexpensive fabric used to check the fit the design
23
and the construction of a pattern before cutting into the real
24
fabric once you have your pattern at the seam allowances i
25
normally do around one centimeter at the side seams at the the center front,
26
center back, inseams and then sew it together.
27
Make sure you mark all the important lines like the hip line,
28
the crotch, the knee and the crease line.
29
I like to leave the opening at the side of the trousers
30
because the most difficult part to fit is the crotch so I like it to be closed.
31
Next put an elastic
32
or a standalone waistband to make sure the trousers are sitting at the waist
33
and also the hem should end at ankle level to avoid weird unrelated wrinkles.
34
If that's not the case just fold it inwards and we're ready to start assessing.
35
Before looking at the flow chart make sure that the side seams,
36
the in seams and the crease lines are sitting right.
37
Sometimes the side seams tilt forward the front or the back
38
and if that's the case just mark on the pattern where the side seam should sit
39
and transfer it to the pattern by shifting it from the front to the back or the other way around.
40
Same for the crease line
41
if it's not in the correct place just go back to your pattern
42
and check that it's in the correct place and for the in seams you can do the same as side seams.
43
Looking at the flowchart, the first question to ask is does the waist sit in the right place?
44
A couple of scenarios can happen.
45
One, the center front or the center back are not sitting where they should be sitting at the waist,
46
but the rest of the lines and the crotch curve are correct and without any wrinkles.
47
This means the need for vertical length at the waist.
48
To correct this issue, add or remove fabric from the waist.
49
You can mark it on the prototype and then transfer it to the pattern.
50
The second scenario is when the center front,
51
center back and side seams are all not sitting in the right place.
52
This means that the crotch length is either too short or too long and the length has to be added or removed.
53
This can also be spotted if you put the trousers at the waist
54
and there's diagonal wrinkles originating at the crotch going towards the edge of the waist.
55
To know how much length to add,
56
put the trousers where the crotch feels comfortable and has no wrinkles
57
and measure the needed length to get to the waist at the side seam.
58
To fix it, cut through the hip line and add the necessary length.
59
In the third scenario, the side seams are sitting in the right place but center front or center back are not.
60
Another thing happening could be that the hip line is dipping and not straight.
61
If this happens you can check two things.
62
First, is the overall crotch length correct?
63
If it is correct it means the length has to be shifted from one place to another one.
64
There is different ways to do this depending on where you transfer it from but here is one of them.
65
To know how much to add measure how much the hip line is dipping.
66
To fix it create a line from the inseam
67
that crosses the crotch curve it's not very important where cut
68
through this line using the inseam as a pivot point
69
and through the hip line using the side seam as a
70
pivot point transfer the length from one line to the other one this fix is not my favorite
71
because it changes the thigh circumference
72
and might create another issue it might be better to fix it on the pattern by pinching
73
and pinning and seeing if it would help before making a new prototype the other scenario happens
74
when the crotch line is correct but then the question to ask here is is the horizontal length correct too.
75
If it's not, three options appear depending on where the horizontal length needs to be added.
76
One, there is not enough length at the back.
77
You might see the side seam still towards the back,
78
the butt feeling tight, horizontal wrinkles below the butt,
79
and the waist sitting away from the body.
80
This might indicate the need for a full seat adjustment.
81
To know how much length is needed vertically,
82
measure the distance from the waist of the pattern to the actual waist.
83
Horizontally release both side seams and measure the distance between the two seam lines.
84
And to fix it draw a parallel line to the crotch line above the hip and connect it to the waistline.
85
Draw another line from the inner knee line to this new line.
86
It does not matter where it crosses the first line.
87
Cut through the first line up to the waist and through the second line up to the knee.
88
Add the length to the first line and the width to the second line.
89
This adjustment will also change the width of the dart to account for a more prominent buttocks.
90
The other option is that there is not enough length at the front.
91
If there is extra fabric at the crotch,
92
cupping under the tummy, the waistline sitting lower than the actual waist,
93
or the side seams tilting towards the front.
94
To know how much to add vertically,
95
measure the distance from the waist to the pattern to the actual waist,
96
and horizontally release both side seams and measure the distance between the two seam lines.
97
How to fix it will depend on how much length needs to be added.
98
If it's one centimeter or less,
99
add it directly to the center front edge,
100
and if it's more than one centimeter, do the following.
101
Draw a parallel line to the floor from center front to five centimeters before reaching the side seam
102
and connect it to the waist edge.
103
The line should be above the hip line.
104
Draw a second line perpendicular to the first one up to the waist,
105
it's not important where it's placed and the dart line can be used though it may be confusing.
106
Cut along both lines and use the waist cross as pivotal points.
107
At the desired ease but this will tilt the center front
108
and you will have to use the second line to restrain the center front and redraw all the lines as needed.
109
The The third option can be spotted with pulling lines irradiating from center front.
110
This adjustment is done to the front pattern piece.
111
To know how much to add,
112
release both side seams and measure the distance between the two lines.
113
To fix it, create a rectangle shape around the crotch area.
114
This is going to be a guideline.
115
Draw a second guideline using the crotch line and cut through the guidelines
116
and use the crotch point and inseam intersections as pivotal points.
117
Add the length needed by pulling out the crotch.
118
Use guideline 2 to correct the positioning of the curve and redraw the center front and crotch curve.
119
And now that all the horizontal lengths around the crotch curve have been corrected,
120
let's go back to the vertical lengths we haven't fixed yet.
121
In here we have two options and which one will depend on the question.
122
Is the thigh circumference correct?
123
If the circumference is not correct,
124
you can lengthen or shorten the crotch.
125
This option is not the best way to go if the thigh circumference is already correct in the pattern.
126
The fix consists of adding length to the crotch extension
127
which adds ease around the thighs and might cause other issues in the future.
128
If the circumference is correct,
129
the length is added to the hip line.
130
To know how much length to add,
131
measure the distance from the waist of the pattern to the actual waist.
132
To do this adjustment, cut through the hip line and use the side seam as a pivot point.
133
Add as much length as you need.
134
This adjustment can be done for both front and back pattern pieces.
135
The problem with this adjustment is that the inclination of the center front and center back lines will change.
136
This will cause the crease line to be very close to the center front
137
and center back and can have a negative effect if you have a full tummy,
138
a rectangular shape or a flat butt.
139
But don't worry because I'll show you how to fix it later.
140
Now that the vertical lengths are correct the next question to ask is,
141
is the horizontal length correct?
142
In theory, we've already looked at the horizontal length,
143
but some distortion of the pattern might have happened while fixing the vertical length.
144
If the horizontal length is incorrect,
145
there's either too much or too little fabric.
146
In this case, take in the length from center front,
147
center back, and the darts.
148
The other option is if the horizontal length is correct, but badly distributed.
149
You will see this if the butt or tummy fit but there's strange shapes or bubbles along the hip or the waistline.
150
This means the width has to be shifted from one side to another one.
151
If you have an hourglass figure the center front should be shifted towards the side seam.
152
If you have a more rectangular figure it should be shifted towards the center front.
153
If you have a flat butt it should be shifted towards the center back
154
and if you have a prominent butt the center back should be shifted towards the the side seam.
155
From here on is all about checking for specific wrinkles and I'll tackle them in the order I normally tackle them in.
156
Problems with the crotch curve can be spotted the following way.
157
Too much depth, you'll have horizontal wrinkles around the center front
158
or center back and this is called a flat pubis
159
and to fix it just straighten the crotch curve by 0.5 to 1 centimeter at a time.
160
The next option is if there's not enough depth you'll have a wedgie
161
or a camel toe and to fix it just scoop from the curve by 0.5 to 1 centimeter at the time.
162
And the third option is if you have a low butt.
163
This was covered in the last video but it basically means
164
that the butt sits below the crotch line and this can be seen in the pattern with pulling lines cupping the buttocks.
165
Here is an image on how to fix it.
166
You basically have to lower the crotch curve to go below the crotch line
167
but for more details I'll link the other video down below.
168
From there we move into adjustments at the inseam.
169
This adjustment is needed when there are lines pulling from the inseam diagonally outwards and it means the inseam is too short.
170
There's two ways of fixing this issue and the adjustment is done for both front and back pattern pieces.
171
The first option is if you need 1.25 centimeters
172
or less this option shifts the top pattern
173
and brings the crease line closer to the center back
174
so this is not a good option for rectangular bodies
175
and to do it just draw a line below
176
and parallel to the crotch line and cut through
177
and spread to add the desired length option two is
178
if you need 1.25 centimeters or more
179
and to fix it just draw a line below
180
and parallel to the crotch line draw the crease line cut through the lines up to the waist
181
and move that piece up the desired amount.
182
The next adjustment is related to the thighs.
183
This is caused when the thigh circumference is correct but not distributed properly.
184
A full thigh will need more room around the inseam and a thin thigh will need less room around the inseam.
185
Both adjustments follow the same procedure and can be done for both front and back pattern pieces.
186
I would advise you to start with the back piece because there's more room to shift the pattern.
187
To fix it, draw a horizontal line below the crotch line,
188
draw the crease line, cut through it and shift the lower part of the pattern by one centimeter at a time.
189
For a full thigh shift it towards the inseam and for a thin thigh shift it towards the side seam.
190
Then redraw the lines and it's done.
191
The next adjustment in the list is for a full calf.
192
This can be spotted if there are pulling lines around the calf.
193
This means there's not enough room for your calf and horizontal length is needed.
194
This adjustment is done for the back pattern.
195
Draw the crease line and knee line.
196
Draw two lines going from inseam and side seam to the crossing between the knee and the crease line.
197
Cut along the lines using the inseam and side seam as pivot points.
198
Spread the pieces to add width.
199
This will add flair to the bottom hem and change the shape of the leg.
200
If you want to preserve the original silhouette,
201
follow the same procedure and draw two horizontal lines perpendicular to the crease line below the knee.
202
Cut through them and use the inseam and side seams as pivot points.
203
Use these cuts to straighten the hem again.
204
This adjustment can cause too much fabric to be behind the knee and there is two ways to fixing it.
205
Option number one, pin the excess fabric at crotch line level.
206
The fabric will create a triangular shape and this is the easiest way to fix it.
207
The second option is to remove the same amount of fabric from the waistline
208
and another prototype might probably be needed to assess if the issue has been corrected properly.
209
And here we get to the last two adjustments,
210
the knock knee and the boat leg.
211
Knock knees are caused by knees aligning towards each other
212
which creates excess fabric at the outer line of the knee
213
and both legs are caused by the knees aligning away from each other which results in excess fabric along the inseam.
214
This adjustment is done to both front and back.
215
And these are all the adjustments I have for today.
216
I hope I didn't go too fast and everything was clear
217
and as I said I have my ebook with the flowchart included and the cheat sheet with the chapter of fitting issues.
218
But that's everything for today.
219
I hope you enjoyed it and if you found it interesting you can always subscribe
220
and like this video or re-watch it as many times as you want and I'll see you on the next one.
221
Bye!
Baixar aplicativo
Pontuação por IA para cada frase que você fala
TRENDING
Populares
Contexto e Background
O vídeo apresentado por Nuria trata dos problemas de ajuste em calças, com foco especial na prototipagem. A importância de entender como os tecidos se comportam e como corrigir trincas na modelagem é essencial para aprimorar o caimento das peças. Neste contexto, abordamos não só as falhas comuns que surgem, mas também a abordagem ideal para solucioná-las. Saber como aplicar técnicas de shadow speak ou shadow speech pode auxiliar na prática do inglês, especialmente para aqueles que buscam melhorar a pronúncia em inglês, enquanto exploram novos vocabulários técnicos.
Top 5 Frases para Comunicação Diária
- "A prototipagem é crucial para verificar o ajuste das peças."
- "Certifique-se de marcar todas as linhas importantes como a linha do quadril."
- "O ajuste do cós deve ser testado no protótipo antes de usar o tecido final."
- "Verifique os alinhamentos das costuras laterais e das linhas de dobra."
- "Adicionar ou remover tecido do cós pode corrigir o ajuste."
Guia de Shadowing Passo a Passo
Para enfrentar as dificuldades apresentadas neste vídeo, siga o guia abaixo, incorporando técnicas de shadowing para melhorar sua fluência e pronúncia.
- Ouça atentamente: Reproduza o vídeo e ouça as instruções de Nuria com atenção. Preste atenção em como ela articula as palavras técnicas.
- Repita em voz alta: Pause o vídeo e repita as frases que você ouviu, como "a prototipagem é crucial". Tente imitar a entonação e o ritmo dela.
- Grave sua voz: Use um gravador de áudio para capturar sua fala enquanto você faz o exercício de repetição. Isso ajudará a identificar áreas que precisam de melhorias.
- Compare com o original: Ouça sua gravação e compare com a pronúncia de Nuria. Preste atenção nas diferenças e faça ajustes conforme necessário.
- Pratique regularmente: A prática é fundamental! Incorpore este exercício em sua rotina de aprendizado para melhorar sua fluência.
Utilizar a técnica de shadowing pode ser um excelente método para não só assimilar novos vocabulários, mas também para fortalecer sua confiança na fala em inglês. Explore mais sobre esse método e outros recursos em um shadowing site dedicado.
O que é a Técnica de Shadowing?
Shadowing é uma técnica de aprendizado de idiomas com base científica, originalmente desenvolvida para o treinamento de intérpretes profissionais. O método é simples, mas poderoso: você ouve áudio em inglês nativo e repete imediatamente em voz alta — como uma sombra seguindo o falante com 1-2 segundos de atraso. Pesquisas mostram melhora significativa na precisão da pronúncia, entonação, ritmo, sons conectados, compreensão auditiva e fluência na fala.
☕ Pague-nos um café
O ShadowingEnglish permanece 100% gratuito graças ao seu apoio. Os custos de servidor e IA são altos — seu café nos mantém ativos! 🙏