Prática de Shadowing: Don't Buy Kitchen Organizers Until You Watch This - Aprenda a falar inglês com vídeo
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Most homeowners think kitchen organization is something you do after the renovation, but that is a huge mistake.
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Real kitchen organization is not about cute bins or matching labels.
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It's about designing your kitchen around how you actually work.
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Cooking, prepping, cleaning, unloading, packing lunches, making coffee, baking, entertaining, and grabbing snacks.
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Let me say it like this.
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A kitchen does not become organized because you buy organizers.
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It becomes organized because every important item has a logical home near the task where it is used.
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Hi, I'm Mark.
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I've been designing functional kitchens for 25 years.
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Organizing a kitchen after it is renovated is a mistake I see time and time again.
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My goal for this video is to help you organize your kitchen before it becomes a reality.
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I'll start by giving you five arguments for functional design that lead to organization.
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Then five mistakes that you should avoid because they ruin your organization.
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We'll look at the pros and cons of organizational focused design, and I'll answer the question,
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when is kitchen organization a good idea and when is it a bad idea?
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And finally, I'll give you some specific tests
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that you can do in your new kitchen or even your current kitchen to assess just how functional it really is.
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So let me start by describing how functional design will allow for a more organized space before you start adding bins, labels, and organizers.
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Organization is all about workflow design.
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It is likely obvious that a well -organized kitchen reduces unnecessary steps.
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Plates near the dishwasher, pots near the range, knives, cutting boards, mixing bowls, and garbage near the prep zone, coffee supplies near the coffee maker,
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and snacks and lunch supplies near the fridge and pantry.
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When your kitchen layout is planned this way with intention, it allows for an easier workflow because organization starts with where things are located,
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not just how they're stored or how easy they are to access.
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This connects directly to professional planning guidelines as well.
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The NKBA recommends protecting walkways and working aisles,
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including at least 42 inches for a one -cooked kitchen and 48 inches for a multiple cook kitchen.
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This matters because organization falls apart when drawers and doors and people and stools and appliances are fighting for the same space.
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So start with an organized layout.
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Accessibility beats capacity.
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A cabinet that technically holds more is not always more functional.
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Deep base cabinets with fixed shelves often create storage caves where things disappear into the back.
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They are inherently harder to access even though they have lots of capacity.
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And this leads to front loading a cabinet.
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No one wants to be digging into the back of a cabinet for something they use daily.
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So the most accessible part of the cabinet, the front, gets overloaded.
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And because there is limited front space, items tend to overflow to other convenient to access places.
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And before long, stuff is everywhere and every cabinet is front loaded.
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A base cabinet with drawers or pullouts make contents visible from above and reduce kneeling and rummaging.
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I always suggest adding more drawers to a kitchen for this very reason.
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Yes, you lose some inside capacity, but you'll gain much more access, and access leads to organization.
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The best storage is task -specific.
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The more specific you are in the planning stage of your design, the better you can match task -specific solutions to aid in your organizational goals.
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This leads you to choosing the best solutions for your needs.
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For example, I recently had a client who had two narrow pullout pantries.
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As great as these are, they didn't offer her the amount of storage she needed.
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By combining the two pantries and installing individual pullouts, we were able to reclaim a lot of the interior capacity lost
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because of excessive hardware and the two cabinet gables on the interior.
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Many companies sell storage systems around specific cases.
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Pullout pantries, spice pullouts, tray dividers, corner systems, drawer organizers, waste and recycle pullouts, and full extension drawers.
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The product market itself confirms this principle that good organization is not a one -size -fits -all.
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It's specialized storage for specific jobs.
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The kitchen triangle rule applies to organization too.
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Now I'm known to be a little harsh on the antiquated kitchen triangle guidelines.
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See, there I go again.
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But at its heart, the kitchen triangle's original aim was to reduce steps when working in the kitchen.
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By having the three main task areas located in a triangle pattern with a set parameter for distance,
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the kitchen becomes more ergonomic and easier to work in.
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This same principle, if applied to how you plan the organization of your kitchen, will greatly affect the overall functionality.
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And this is where my kitchen pyramid comes into view.
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The sink, the range and fridge all need to connect to the prep zone.
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This is the pinnacle of the pyramid because everything flows from the prep zone.
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When your kitchen is designed this way, it will allow for greater organization in the way that you move about your kitchen.
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Organization should be planned before cabinet ordering.
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Some organizers can be added later, but many of the most useful ones need to be designed into the cabinet plan.
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Trash recycling pullouts, tray dividers, deep drawer cabinets, appliance grudges, blind corner systems, spice pullouts, pantry pullouts.
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Once your layout is designed to allow for organization, move on to these individual cabinets.
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Most people skip this step as it seems tedious or unknowable.
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Like, how am I supposed to know where everything is going to go?
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But that's just the point.
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If you plan where everything goes and organize it according to your cabinet choices, you won't be confused about where things go.
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You'll already have a plan.
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If you want my help designing a functional and well -organized kitchen,
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please click the link in the description below and book a one -on -one consultation with me.
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I'd love to help.
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Let's look at some of the biggest misconceptions and mistakes surrounding kitchen organization.
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Misconception number one, more cabinets means more organization.
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More storage can just mean more places for a mess.
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A kitchen with fewer but better planned drawers, pantries, and pullouts can function much better than a kitchen that's packed with lots of cabinets.
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This doesn't mean that large kitchens can't be organized.
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It just means that largeness is not the deciding factor.
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The size of your kitchen has little to do with it.
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Designing an organized kitchen, big or small, is how you end up with an organized kitchen that's big or small.
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It's all in the planning.
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Misconception number two organization is about containers.
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Containers and bins and organizers all help but they are the final layer, the icing on the cake.
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The real order should be your layout, your zones, your cabinet type, accessories and then your bins, containers and organizers.
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Most homeowners start at the end but containers can make a mess of your kitchen
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because they might solve a problem you don't even have.
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Just because you've seen it on Pinterest does not mean it's right for you.
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Make sure the solution is solving a problem you actually have.
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Misconception number three, deep drawers are always better.
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Now, I realize I previously said that drawers are the answer, but it's a little more nuanced than that.
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Deep drawers are great for pots, pans, dishes, mixing bowls, small appliances,
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and pantry items, but they can become junk drawers if the homeowner uses them for small, loose items.
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An organized kitchen will likely have a mixture of deep and shallow drawers of varying widths.
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Be careful with narrow deep drawers as
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they lend themselves to smaller items and you'll end up digging around in those more than you'd like to be.
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I always recommend at least one four drawer cabinet close to a range for cutlery, utensils, and gadgets or other smaller items needed when cooking.
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Misconception number four, a lazy Susan fixes the corner.
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Now this is me you're listening to.
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Do you really think that I'd let the corner get off that easily.
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I despise most corner solutions, but I'm also quite aware that some corner solutions are useful some of the time.
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A lazy Susan can be useful, but should never be the gold standard.
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A Le Mans system could be great for a blind corner as it improves access with independently moving shelves,
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but it still requires specific cabinet dimensions, hardware, installation, and budget.
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There's lots of options out there.
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You just need to research the one that fits your needs.
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And be aware that sometimes designers will just throw lazy Susan in there and be done with it.
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That's a huge mistake.
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Select a corner accessory that helps keep the corner organized.
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Misconception number five, the pantry should just hold food.
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A cabinet pantry has lots of potential to improve the overall organizational function of your kitchen.
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You just have to think beyond food storage.
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A functional pantry can also hold small appliances, baking supplies, lunch making items, paper goods, overflow dishes, coffee supplies, bulk purchases.
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A pantry should support the daily needs of the homeowners working in the kitchen.
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And yes, it stores food, but a well -planned pantry can offer so much more.
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Because many people leave organization until after the kitchen is complete,
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I wanted to share what I think are the pros and cons of organization -focused design.
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Better organization can reduce walking, bending, searching, duplicate purchases, counter clutter, just daily frustration.
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It can also make the kitchen easier to use long term.
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as homeowners age.
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Drawers, pull -outs, lower -dish storage, and full -extension pantry systems can reduce bending, lifting, and reaching.
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Bloom, for example, specifically frames ergonomic cabinet design as protecting the back and the joints.
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It's a great idea when the homeowner has clear daily routines, cooking every night, baking, packing lunches, making coffee, entertaining, gardening, canning,
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meal prepping, or needing the kids to access certain items independently.
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It's also especially valuable in small kitchens.
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Small kitchens cannot afford dead zones, buried storage, or decorative storage that really doesn't work.
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But organization upgrades can get expensive fast.
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Hardware -heavy systems like blind corner pullouts, pantry pullouts, and specialty organizers often cost significantly more than basic shelves or even pullout shelves.
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It's likely that these are not automatically added to your cabinet quote.
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Most accessories like this are added later with a change to the price, greatly affecting your budget.
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They can also reduce raw cubic capacity because hardware takes up space.
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It's important to be specific with the accessible hardware that you choose and balance it with the overall capacity that you need.
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Some organizers are too specific.
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A wall spice pullout is great if you cook often and keep spices in that space,
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but it's often wasted space if you buy oversized containers or prefer spices in a drawer.
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Or a tray divider is excellent for baking sheets and cutting boards,
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but it can be useless for the homeowner who only has one baking sheet, like me.
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Not everyone needs space for 35 baking sheets.
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It becomes a bad idea when the homeowner spends money on organizers before solving the layout issues.
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A $700 pullout does not fix a fridge in the wrong location, or a dishwasher blocking the sink,
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or an island aisle that doesn't have enough clearance.
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It's also a bad idea when the storage is designed around fantasy habits instead of real habits.
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For example, we'll keep the counters clear by putting the toaster in a cabinet.
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Maybe, but if you use the toaster every morning, the toaster might end up living on the countertop anyway.
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It's also bad when the organizer is chosen because it looks satisfying online or in an ad, not because it actually supports a real task.
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So while I absolutely think that you should prioritize organization,
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please be aware of the impact on budget and overall capacity that some of these solutions can have.
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Now I want to give you some tests that you can perform on your current or planned kitchen.
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These will be helpful in deciding if you have any hope at your kitchen being organized.
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Test number one, the dishwasher unload test.
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Can I unload the dishwasher without walking across the kitchen?
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The items you use daily, the most frequently, such as plates and bowls, glasses and cutlery, should be stored close to the dishwasher.
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Since unloading the dishwasher is the task you are solving for, it's vital that it not be a scattered event.
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Now we all know that there will be a little bit of travel,
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so aim for a high majority of your daily items to be within a step of your dishwasher.
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Test two, the spaghetti test.
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Can I make spaghetti without crossing kitchen traffic?
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You need pasta, pot, water, sink, a range, sauce, spoon, a colander, some veggies, the trash, a serving bowl.
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If those items are scattered everywhere, the kitchen could be technically organized but functionally broken.
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Remember, organization is as much about workflow as it is the individual cabinets.
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But the spaghetti test is more for analyzing traffic patterns in and through your kitchen.
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You'll want to approach your design with the idea of protecting your prep
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and cooking zones against everyone in your house needing to be in that same space when you're making spaghetti.
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Clusters of people in one zone is an organizational nightmare.
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Test number three, the packing lunch test.
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This test is especially useful for families with school -aged kids
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and works best if they are helping you because this puts more people into the kitchen.
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Figuring out how your kitchen deals with more people is important.
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Are wraps, containers, snacks, lunch bags, water bottles, and kid accessible items located so that they allow for a fun family bonding experience?
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Or do you just want to strangle everybody because they're all in your way?
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If they're in the way, it might not be them.
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It could be your kitchen.
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The lunch packing test is really seeing if you have a kitchen with proper clearances and suitable prep space.
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Kitchens aren't just for making dinner.
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An organized kitchen will help with all the food -related tasks.
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Test four, the baking center test.
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The baking zone might include mixing bowls, measuring cups, a mixer, baking sheets, parchment, flour, sugar, and cooling racks.
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If you bake a lot, this test will be important, especially if your kitchen cannot afford a dedicated baking center.
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Your regular prep area will likely be your baking center.
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So does your baking area actually support baking?
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The baking center test is trying to decide if there is enough crossover storage capacity for specific use cases.
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It could be canning, or it could be dehydrating, or it could be baking.
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These tasks will all have specific items related to them.
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So if you plan on these activities, be sure to run this test to make sure you have ample room and access to these extra items.
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Test 5, the small appliance graveyard test.
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Right now, in this moment, think about where all your small appliances are stored.
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Maybe you can see them from where you're sitting watching this video.
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Are they on the countertop, in an appliance garage, in the back of some base cabinet, or even worse, a corner?
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If small appliances are stored in deep lower cabinets with fixed shelves, they often become too annoying to use.
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So they end up on the countertop exactly what you were trying to avoid.
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A deep drawer, an appliance lift, a pantry shelf or dedicated appliance cabinet can make them more usable.
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However, for this test, it's also important to realize the frequency of use.
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Daily appliances should be accessible without much resistance.
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Seldom used appliances still need a home, but not in prime real estate.
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This test is all about frequency and whether the small appliances are stored where they're needed the most.
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Test number six, the corner cabinet test.
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If you are set on having a corner cabinet, test it.
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Can I reach items easily?
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Can I see what's inside?
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Does it match how often I use the items?
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Does it avoid collisions?
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Can it handle the weight?
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Is it worth the price?
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And would blocking it off improve the kitchen?
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Score each of those seven out of five, and if your score adds up to 30 or above, you likely have a great solution.
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If it scores under 15, you definitely do not need to do anything with that corner except burn it.
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If it's anywhere in the middle, you're likely just better off blocking it off than fooling around with some corner storage solution.
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Test number seven is the trash placement test.
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Trash should be near the prep and cleanup, not randomly placed wherever
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there is a leftover cabinet space a pull -out trash recycling cabinet can be one of the highest functioning organizers
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because it supports daily prep and cleanup.
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Does your trash placement support this function or is it located where it promotes a commotion around the working zone?
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Trash cabinets are like fridges to me.
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Everyone needs to access them, not just the cook.
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So it should be placed so that it does not create more congestion for the prep and the cooking tasks.
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Remember, the best time to organize your kitchen is before you have a kitchen to organize.
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I hope this was helpful.
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Please subscribe if you find value in my content.
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Thanks for watching.
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See you in the next one.
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Vocabulário e dicas de fala para esta lição
Esta aula de conversação usa o vídeo “Don't Buy Kitchen Organizers Until You Watch This”. As palavras que mais se repetem: kitchen, cabinet, test, organization, drawer. Este vídeo tem 222 frases e 2933 palavras para praticar shadowing. A fala dura 17:43. O falante fala em ritmo natural, cerca de 166 palavras por minuto, próximo de uma conversa do dia a dia. Apenas 78% das palavras estão entre as 3.000 mais comuns do inglês, por isso o vocabulário é exigente.
Vocabulário principal deste vídeo
15 palavras do vídeo que vale a pena aprender, com pronúncia e significado:
| Palavra | Pronúncia | Significado |
|---|---|---|
| drawer substantivo | /dɹɔɹ/ | gaveta |
| bake verbo | /beɪk/ | assar |
| organizer substantivo | /ˈɔɹɡənaɪzɚ/ | organizador |
| trash substantivo | /tɹæʃ/ | lixo |
| functional adjetivo | /ˈfʌŋkt͡ʃənəl/ | funcional |
| container substantivo | /kənˈteɪ.nəɹ/ | recipiente |
| shelf substantivo | /ʃɛlf/ | prateleira, estante |
| hardware substantivo | /ˈhɑɹdˌwɛɹ/ | equipamento |
| layout substantivo | /ˈleɪ.aʊt/ | disposição |
| organize verbo | /ˈɔɹɡənaɪz/ | organizar |
| solve verbo | /sɒlv/ | resolver, solucionar |
| sheet substantivo | /ʃit/ | folha |
| bin substantivo | /ˈbɪn/ | tonel |
| accessible adjetivo | /əkˈsɛs.ɪ.bəl/ | acessível |
| organizational adjetivo | /ˌɔː(ɹ)ɡənɪˈzeɪʃənəl/ | organizacional |
Phrasal verbs que você vai ouvir
| Palavra | Significado |
|---|---|
| end up verbo | terminar, acabar |
| fall apart verbo | cair aos pedaços |
| figure out verbo | descobrir, deduzir |
| get off verbo | sair |
| pull out verbo | retirar, retirar-se |
Frases que vale a pena repetir
Frases curtas e completas do vídeo que você pode usar na conversa do dia a dia:
- You'll already have a plan.
- Can I make spaghetti without crossing kitchen traffic?
- Can I reach items easily?
- Can I see what's inside?
- Does it match how often I use the items?
Pronúncia para ficar de olho
O falante usa 33 contrações e formas reduzidas, como they're, you'll, you're. Diga-as na forma curta, do jeito que você ouve.
- Os sons de “sh” e “zh”: trash /tɹæʃ/, shelf /ʃɛlf/, sheet /ʃit/, organizational /ˌɔː(ɹ)ɡənɪˈzeɪʃənəl/, dish /dɪʃ/
- Palavras longas — acerte a sílaba tônica: organizer /ˈɔɹɡənaɪzɚ/, accessible /əkˈsɛs.ɪ.bəl/, organizational /ˌɔː(ɹ)ɡənɪˈzeɪʃənəl/, technically /ˈtɛk.nɪˌkəl.i/, independently /ˌɪndɪˈpɛndəntli/
Sons difíceis para falantes de português:
- Consoante final — sem acrescentar um “i” depois: bake /beɪk/, layout /ˈleɪ.aʊt/, sheet /ʃit/, sink /ˈsɪŋk/, snack /snæk/
- /l/ final — a língua toca o céu da boca, não vira “u”: functional /ˈfʌŋkt͡ʃənəl/, accessible /əkˈsɛs.ɪ.bəl/, organizational /ˌɔː(ɹ)ɡənɪˈzeɪʃənəl/, triangle /ˈtɹaɪˌæŋɡəl/, label /ˈleɪ.bəl/
- /h/ — um sopro suave, diferente do “r”: hardware /ˈhɑɹdˌwɛɹ/, helpful /ˈhɛlp.fl̩/, habit /ˈhæb.ɪt/, wherever /(h)wɛɹˈɛvɚ/, harsh /ˈhɑɹʃ/
Como praticar com este vídeo
- Ouça o vídeo inteiro uma vez sem falar e anote as palavras que você não conhece.
- Comece na velocidade 0,75×, faça shadowing frase por frase e volte à velocidade normal quando ficar fácil.
- Grave a sua voz e compare com o original, prestando atenção a palavras como drawer, bake, organizer.
O que é a Técnica de Shadowing?
Shadowing é uma técnica de aprendizado de idiomas com base científica, originalmente desenvolvida para o treinamento de intérpretes profissionais. O método é simples, mas poderoso: você ouve áudio em inglês nativo e repete imediatamente em voz alta — como uma sombra seguindo o falante com 1-2 segundos de atraso. Pesquisas mostram melhora significativa na precisão da pronúncia, entonação, ritmo, sons conectados, compreensão auditiva e fluência na fala.