Pratica di Shadowing: Don't Buy Kitchen Organizers Until You Watch This - Impara a parlare inglese con i video

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Most homeowners think kitchen organization is something you do after the renovation, but that is a huge mistake.

Real kitchen organization is not about cute bins or matching labels.

It's about designing your kitchen around how you actually work.

Cooking, prepping, cleaning, unloading, packing lunches, making coffee, baking, entertaining, and grabbing snacks.

Let me say it like this.

A kitchen does not become organized because you buy organizers.

It becomes organized because every important item has a logical home near the task where it is used.

Hi, I'm Mark.

I've been designing functional kitchens for 25 years.

Organizing a kitchen after it is renovated is a mistake I see time and time again.

My goal for this video is to help you organize your kitchen before it becomes a reality.

I'll start by giving you five arguments for functional design that lead to organization.

Then five mistakes that you should avoid because they ruin your organization.

We'll look at the pros and cons of organizational focused design, and I'll answer the question,

when is kitchen organization a good idea and when is it a bad idea?

And finally, I'll give you some specific tests

that you can do in your new kitchen or even your current kitchen to assess just how functional it really is.

So let me start by describing how functional design will allow for a more organized space before you start adding bins, labels, and organizers.

Organization is all about workflow design.

It is likely obvious that a well -organized kitchen reduces unnecessary steps.

Plates near the dishwasher, pots near the range, knives, cutting boards, mixing bowls, and garbage near the prep zone, coffee supplies near the coffee maker,

and snacks and lunch supplies near the fridge and pantry.

When your kitchen layout is planned this way with intention, it allows for an easier workflow because organization starts with where things are located,

not just how they're stored or how easy they are to access.

This connects directly to professional planning guidelines as well.

The NKBA recommends protecting walkways and working aisles,

including at least 42 inches for a one -cooked kitchen and 48 inches for a multiple cook kitchen.

This matters because organization falls apart when drawers and doors and people and stools and appliances are fighting for the same space.

So start with an organized layout.

Accessibility beats capacity.

A cabinet that technically holds more is not always more functional.

Deep base cabinets with fixed shelves often create storage caves where things disappear into the back.

They are inherently harder to access even though they have lots of capacity.

And this leads to front loading a cabinet.

No one wants to be digging into the back of a cabinet for something they use daily.

So the most accessible part of the cabinet, the front, gets overloaded.

And because there is limited front space, items tend to overflow to other convenient to access places.

And before long, stuff is everywhere and every cabinet is front loaded.

A base cabinet with drawers or pullouts make contents visible from above and reduce kneeling and rummaging.

I always suggest adding more drawers to a kitchen for this very reason.

Yes, you lose some inside capacity, but you'll gain much more access, and access leads to organization.

The best storage is task -specific.

The more specific you are in the planning stage of your design, the better you can match task -specific solutions to aid in your organizational goals.

This leads you to choosing the best solutions for your needs.

For example, I recently had a client who had two narrow pullout pantries.

As great as these are, they didn't offer her the amount of storage she needed.

By combining the two pantries and installing individual pullouts, we were able to reclaim a lot of the interior capacity lost

because of excessive hardware and the two cabinet gables on the interior.

Many companies sell storage systems around specific cases.

Pullout pantries, spice pullouts, tray dividers, corner systems, drawer organizers, waste and recycle pullouts, and full extension drawers.

The product market itself confirms this principle that good organization is not a one -size -fits -all.

It's specialized storage for specific jobs.

The kitchen triangle rule applies to organization too.

Now I'm known to be a little harsh on the antiquated kitchen triangle guidelines.

See, there I go again.

But at its heart, the kitchen triangle's original aim was to reduce steps when working in the kitchen.

By having the three main task areas located in a triangle pattern with a set parameter for distance,

the kitchen becomes more ergonomic and easier to work in.

This same principle, if applied to how you plan the organization of your kitchen, will greatly affect the overall functionality.

And this is where my kitchen pyramid comes into view.

The sink, the range and fridge all need to connect to the prep zone.

This is the pinnacle of the pyramid because everything flows from the prep zone.

When your kitchen is designed this way, it will allow for greater organization in the way that you move about your kitchen.

Organization should be planned before cabinet ordering.

Some organizers can be added later, but many of the most useful ones need to be designed into the cabinet plan.

Trash recycling pullouts, tray dividers, deep drawer cabinets, appliance grudges, blind corner systems, spice pullouts, pantry pullouts.

Once your layout is designed to allow for organization, move on to these individual cabinets.

Most people skip this step as it seems tedious or unknowable.

Like, how am I supposed to know where everything is going to go?

But that's just the point.

If you plan where everything goes and organize it according to your cabinet choices, you won't be confused about where things go.

You'll already have a plan.

If you want my help designing a functional and well -organized kitchen,

please click the link in the description below and book a one -on -one consultation with me.

I'd love to help.

Let's look at some of the biggest misconceptions and mistakes surrounding kitchen organization.

Misconception number one, more cabinets means more organization.

More storage can just mean more places for a mess.

A kitchen with fewer but better planned drawers, pantries, and pullouts can function much better than a kitchen that's packed with lots of cabinets.

This doesn't mean that large kitchens can't be organized.

It just means that largeness is not the deciding factor.

The size of your kitchen has little to do with it.

Designing an organized kitchen, big or small, is how you end up with an organized kitchen that's big or small.

It's all in the planning.

Misconception number two organization is about containers.

Containers and bins and organizers all help but they are the final layer, the icing on the cake.

The real order should be your layout, your zones, your cabinet type, accessories and then your bins, containers and organizers.

Most homeowners start at the end but containers can make a mess of your kitchen

because they might solve a problem you don't even have.

Just because you've seen it on Pinterest does not mean it's right for you.

Make sure the solution is solving a problem you actually have.

Misconception number three, deep drawers are always better.

Now, I realize I previously said that drawers are the answer, but it's a little more nuanced than that.

Deep drawers are great for pots, pans, dishes, mixing bowls, small appliances,

and pantry items, but they can become junk drawers if the homeowner uses them for small, loose items.

An organized kitchen will likely have a mixture of deep and shallow drawers of varying widths.

Be careful with narrow deep drawers as

they lend themselves to smaller items and you'll end up digging around in those more than you'd like to be.

I always recommend at least one four drawer cabinet close to a range for cutlery, utensils, and gadgets or other smaller items needed when cooking.

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Misconception number four, a lazy Susan fixes the corner.

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Now this is me you're listening to.

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Do you really think that I'd let the corner get off that easily.

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I despise most corner solutions, but I'm also quite aware that some corner solutions are useful some of the time.

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A lazy Susan can be useful, but should never be the gold standard.

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A Le Mans system could be great for a blind corner as it improves access with independently moving shelves,

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but it still requires specific cabinet dimensions, hardware, installation, and budget.

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There's lots of options out there.

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You just need to research the one that fits your needs.

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And be aware that sometimes designers will just throw lazy Susan in there and be done with it.

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That's a huge mistake.

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Select a corner accessory that helps keep the corner organized.

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Misconception number five, the pantry should just hold food.

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A cabinet pantry has lots of potential to improve the overall organizational function of your kitchen.

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You just have to think beyond food storage.

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A functional pantry can also hold small appliances, baking supplies, lunch making items, paper goods, overflow dishes, coffee supplies, bulk purchases.

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A pantry should support the daily needs of the homeowners working in the kitchen.

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And yes, it stores food, but a well -planned pantry can offer so much more.

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Because many people leave organization until after the kitchen is complete,

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I wanted to share what I think are the pros and cons of organization -focused design.

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Better organization can reduce walking, bending, searching, duplicate purchases, counter clutter, just daily frustration.

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It can also make the kitchen easier to use long term.

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as homeowners age.

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Drawers, pull -outs, lower -dish storage, and full -extension pantry systems can reduce bending, lifting, and reaching.

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Bloom, for example, specifically frames ergonomic cabinet design as protecting the back and the joints.

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It's a great idea when the homeowner has clear daily routines, cooking every night, baking, packing lunches, making coffee, entertaining, gardening, canning,

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meal prepping, or needing the kids to access certain items independently.

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It's also especially valuable in small kitchens.

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Small kitchens cannot afford dead zones, buried storage, or decorative storage that really doesn't work.

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But organization upgrades can get expensive fast.

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Hardware -heavy systems like blind corner pullouts, pantry pullouts, and specialty organizers often cost significantly more than basic shelves or even pullout shelves.

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It's likely that these are not automatically added to your cabinet quote.

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Most accessories like this are added later with a change to the price, greatly affecting your budget.

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They can also reduce raw cubic capacity because hardware takes up space.

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It's important to be specific with the accessible hardware that you choose and balance it with the overall capacity that you need.

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Some organizers are too specific.

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A wall spice pullout is great if you cook often and keep spices in that space,

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but it's often wasted space if you buy oversized containers or prefer spices in a drawer.

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Or a tray divider is excellent for baking sheets and cutting boards,

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but it can be useless for the homeowner who only has one baking sheet, like me.

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Not everyone needs space for 35 baking sheets.

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It becomes a bad idea when the homeowner spends money on organizers before solving the layout issues.

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A $700 pullout does not fix a fridge in the wrong location, or a dishwasher blocking the sink,

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or an island aisle that doesn't have enough clearance.

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It's also a bad idea when the storage is designed around fantasy habits instead of real habits.

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For example, we'll keep the counters clear by putting the toaster in a cabinet.

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Maybe, but if you use the toaster every morning, the toaster might end up living on the countertop anyway.

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It's also bad when the organizer is chosen because it looks satisfying online or in an ad, not because it actually supports a real task.

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So while I absolutely think that you should prioritize organization,

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please be aware of the impact on budget and overall capacity that some of these solutions can have.

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Now I want to give you some tests that you can perform on your current or planned kitchen.

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These will be helpful in deciding if you have any hope at your kitchen being organized.

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Test number one, the dishwasher unload test.

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Can I unload the dishwasher without walking across the kitchen?

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The items you use daily, the most frequently, such as plates and bowls, glasses and cutlery, should be stored close to the dishwasher.

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Since unloading the dishwasher is the task you are solving for, it's vital that it not be a scattered event.

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Now we all know that there will be a little bit of travel,

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so aim for a high majority of your daily items to be within a step of your dishwasher.

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Test two, the spaghetti test.

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Can I make spaghetti without crossing kitchen traffic?

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You need pasta, pot, water, sink, a range, sauce, spoon, a colander, some veggies, the trash, a serving bowl.

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If those items are scattered everywhere, the kitchen could be technically organized but functionally broken.

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Remember, organization is as much about workflow as it is the individual cabinets.

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But the spaghetti test is more for analyzing traffic patterns in and through your kitchen.

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You'll want to approach your design with the idea of protecting your prep

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and cooking zones against everyone in your house needing to be in that same space when you're making spaghetti.

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Clusters of people in one zone is an organizational nightmare.

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Test number three, the packing lunch test.

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This test is especially useful for families with school -aged kids

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and works best if they are helping you because this puts more people into the kitchen.

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Figuring out how your kitchen deals with more people is important.

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Are wraps, containers, snacks, lunch bags, water bottles, and kid accessible items located so that they allow for a fun family bonding experience?

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Or do you just want to strangle everybody because they're all in your way?

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If they're in the way, it might not be them.

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It could be your kitchen.

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The lunch packing test is really seeing if you have a kitchen with proper clearances and suitable prep space.

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Kitchens aren't just for making dinner.

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An organized kitchen will help with all the food -related tasks.

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Test four, the baking center test.

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The baking zone might include mixing bowls, measuring cups, a mixer, baking sheets, parchment, flour, sugar, and cooling racks.

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If you bake a lot, this test will be important, especially if your kitchen cannot afford a dedicated baking center.

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Your regular prep area will likely be your baking center.

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So does your baking area actually support baking?

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The baking center test is trying to decide if there is enough crossover storage capacity for specific use cases.

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It could be canning, or it could be dehydrating, or it could be baking.

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These tasks will all have specific items related to them.

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So if you plan on these activities, be sure to run this test to make sure you have ample room and access to these extra items.

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Test 5, the small appliance graveyard test.

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Right now, in this moment, think about where all your small appliances are stored.

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Maybe you can see them from where you're sitting watching this video.

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Are they on the countertop, in an appliance garage, in the back of some base cabinet, or even worse, a corner?

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If small appliances are stored in deep lower cabinets with fixed shelves, they often become too annoying to use.

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So they end up on the countertop exactly what you were trying to avoid.

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A deep drawer, an appliance lift, a pantry shelf or dedicated appliance cabinet can make them more usable.

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However, for this test, it's also important to realize the frequency of use.

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Daily appliances should be accessible without much resistance.

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Seldom used appliances still need a home, but not in prime real estate.

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This test is all about frequency and whether the small appliances are stored where they're needed the most.

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Test number six, the corner cabinet test.

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If you are set on having a corner cabinet, test it.

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Can I reach items easily?

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Can I see what's inside?

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Does it match how often I use the items?

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Does it avoid collisions?

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Can it handle the weight?

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Is it worth the price?

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And would blocking it off improve the kitchen?

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Score each of those seven out of five, and if your score adds up to 30 or above, you likely have a great solution.

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If it scores under 15, you definitely do not need to do anything with that corner except burn it.

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If it's anywhere in the middle, you're likely just better off blocking it off than fooling around with some corner storage solution.

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Test number seven is the trash placement test.

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Trash should be near the prep and cleanup, not randomly placed wherever

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there is a leftover cabinet space a pull -out trash recycling cabinet can be one of the highest functioning organizers

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because it supports daily prep and cleanup.

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Does your trash placement support this function or is it located where it promotes a commotion around the working zone?

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Trash cabinets are like fridges to me.

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Everyone needs to access them, not just the cook.

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So it should be placed so that it does not create more congestion for the prep and the cooking tasks.

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Remember, the best time to organize your kitchen is before you have a kitchen to organize.

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I hope this was helpful.

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Please subscribe if you find value in my content.

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Thanks for watching.

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See you in the next one.

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Vocabolario e note di pronuncia per questa lezione

Questa lezione di conversazione si basa sul video “Don't Buy Kitchen Organizers Until You Watch This”. Le parole che ritornano più spesso: kitchen, cabinet, test, organization, drawer. Questo video contiene 222 frasi e 2933 parole da ripetere con lo shadowing. Il parlato dura 17:43. Chi parla ha un ritmo naturale di circa 166 parole al minuto, vicino a una conversazione quotidiana. Solo il 78% delle parole rientra nelle 3.000 più comuni dell’inglese, quindi il lessico è impegnativo.

Vocaboli chiave di questo video

15 parole del video che vale la pena imparare, con pronuncia e significato:

Parola	Pronuncia	Significato
drawer sostantivo	/dɹɔɹ/	cassetto
bake verbo	/beɪk/	cuocere (al forno), infornare
organizer sostantivo	/ˈɔɹɡənaɪzɚ/	organizzatore, organizzatrice
trash sostantivo	/tɹæʃ/	spazzatura, immondizia
functional aggettivo	/ˈfʌŋkt͡ʃənəl/	funzionante
container sostantivo	/kənˈteɪ.nəɹ/	contenitore, recipiente
shelf sostantivo	/ʃɛlf/	scaffale, mensola
hardware sostantivo	/ˈhɑɹdˌwɛɹ/	ferramenta
organize verbo	/ˈɔɹɡənaɪz/	organizzare
solve verbo	/sɒlv/	risolvere
sheet sostantivo	/ʃit/	foglio
bin sostantivo	/ˈbɪn/	bidone
accessible aggettivo	/əkˈsɛs.ɪ.bəl/	accessibile
organizational aggettivo	/ˌɔː(ɹ)ɡənɪˈzeɪʃənəl/	organizzativo
lazy aggettivo	/ˈleɪ̯zi(ː)/	pigro

I phrasal verb che sentirai

Parola	Significato
end up verbo	andare a finire, finire
fall apart verbo	cadere a pezzi
figure out verbo	scoprire, rendersi conto
get off verbo	scendere
take up verbo	sollevare, prendere

Frasi da ripetere

Frasi brevi e complete del video che puoi riutilizzare nella conversazione di tutti i giorni:

You'll already have a plan.
Can I make spaghetti without crossing kitchen traffic?
Can I reach items easily?
Can I see what's inside?
Does it match how often I use the items?

Pronuncia a cui fare attenzione

Chi parla usa 33 contrazioni e forme ridotte, come they're, you'll, you're. Pronunciale nella forma breve, così come le senti.

I suoni “sh” e “zh”: trash /tɹæʃ/, shelf /ʃɛlf/, sheet /ʃit/, organizational /ˌɔː(ɹ)ɡənɪˈzeɪʃənəl/, dish /dɪʃ/
Parole lunghe — attenzione all’accento: organizer /ˈɔɹɡənaɪzɚ/, accessible /əkˈsɛs.ɪ.bəl/, organizational /ˌɔː(ɹ)ɡənɪˈzeɪʃənəl/, technically /ˈtɛk.nɪˌkəl.i/, independently /ˌɪndɪˈpɛndəntli/

I suoni difficili per chi parla italiano:

/h/ — va soffiata, non è muta: hardware /ˈhɑɹdˌwɛɹ/, helpful /ˈhɛlp.fl̩/, habit /ˈhæb.ɪt/, wherever /(h)wɛɹˈɛvɚ/, harsh /ˈhɑɹʃ/
Consonante finale — senza aggiungere una vocale dopo: bake /beɪk/, trash /tɹæʃ/, shelf /ʃɛlf/, layout /ˈleɪ.aʊt/, organize /ˈɔɹɡənaɪz/
/æ/ — più aperta della “e”: trash /tɹæʃ/, triangle /ˈtɹaɪˌæŋɡəl/, snack /snæk/, narrow /ˈnæɹəʊ/, habit /ˈhæb.ɪt/

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Cos'è la tecnica dello Shadowing?

Shadowing è una tecnica di apprendimento delle lingue supportata da studi scientifici, originariamente sviluppata per la formazione dei traduttori professionisti e resa popolare dal poliglotta Dr. Alexander Arguelles. Il metodo è semplice ma potente: ascolti un audio in inglese di madrelingua e lo ripeti immediatamente ad alta voce — come un'ombra che segue il parlante con un ritardo di solo 1–2 secondi. A differenza dell'ascolto passivo o degli esercizi di grammatica, lo shadowing costringe il tuo cervello e i muscoli della bocca a elaborare e riprodurre simultaneamente i modelli di discorso reale. La ricerca dimostra che migliora significativamente la precisione della pronuncia, l'intonazione, il ritmo, il discorso connesso, la comprensione dell'ascolto e la fluidità del parlato — rendendolo uno dei metodi più efficaci per la preparazione alla prova di speaking dell'IELTS e per la comunicazione reale in inglese.

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Pratica di Shadowing: Don't Buy Kitchen Organizers Until You Watch This - Impara a parlare inglese con i video

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