Shadowing-Übung: How to Create a Women’s Bodice Block from Body Measurements [Pattern Making Tutorial] - Englisch Sprechen Lernen mit Video
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Bodice Vlog Pattern Making Hi, I'm Jin.
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Welcome to Pattern Studio 101.
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This channel is all about pattern making.
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If you enjoy my videos, be sure to join my email list.
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Every week, I send out tips and techniques for pattern making that you don't want to miss.
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You can sign up for my email list on my website patternstudio101.com.
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Okay, bodice block today.
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Dropping a bodice block may seem intimidating, but it's actually quite straightforward.
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However, before we dive into the tutorial, I want to clarify a common misconception about bodice blocks.
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Some people believe that having a bodice block is a magical solution that allows you to create any garment you want.
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But I want to say that's not true.
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While it's possible to use a bodice block to create garments with a similar fit to the bodice block,
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many designs deviate significantly from the bodice block.
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For instance, if you wanted to create shirts or jackets like these examples,
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you would have to modify the bodice block by adjusting the underarm point,
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shoulder width, neck width, armhole curve, and adding proper ease for each design.
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Even if you start with a bodice block that perfectly fits,
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you will still need to adjust it for each design and do multiple fittings to get the final fit you want.
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So instead of solely focusing on having a pattern block,
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it's essential to learn and understand the basics of bodice block making.
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This includes understanding how to determine dart width, how to apply measurement to patterns,
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how much ease is appropriate for each design,
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how to adjust patterns for different body shapes, postures, and fabrics.
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Once you comprehend these principles, you don't need bodice blocks to make design patterns.
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You will be able to make any patterns from scratch.
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With that said, I'll show you an easy method for creating a woman's body's block today.
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Let's get started.
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You need body measurement.
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Chest circumference, waist circumference, shoulder width,
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back length, apex length, and bust span.
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You can measure cross chest and cross back if you want, but you don't have to.
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We can calculate with the shoulder width later.
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If you need help taking body measurement, I have a how to measure guide.
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You can download it on my website, patternstudio101.com.
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It's free.
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Draw a rectangle.
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Vertical is the back length.
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Horizontal is half of your chest plus one inch or one inch and a half.
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The total ease will be 2 to 3 inches.
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From the center back, measure down chest divided by 4 minus half of an inch for the armhole depth
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and draw an underarm line.
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I don't calculate armhole depth with the chest circumference, but this can be a good starting point.
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I made an armhole depth chart by types of designs.
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Go to my website patternstudio101.com and download it.
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Find a midpoint on the horizontal line.
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If you draw a line here, then the front and back chest will be the same, right?
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But I will move the point 1 8th of an inch towards the back.
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So my front is a little bit bigger than the back.
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Depending on the cup size, you can make an even bigger front than this.
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Draw a side seam.
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Let's draw the back.
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From the center back neck point, measure chest divided by 12.
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And divide this by 3 and go up the same length. and draw a neckline.
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From the center back neck point, measure half of the shoulder width.
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Go down 3 eighths of an inch.
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Connect the high shoulder point.
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We're going to have a half of an inch width dart on the shoulder.
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So extend the line by half of an inch.
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So this is now the shoulder point.
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From the shoulder point, measure in half of an inch and draw on crossback guideline.
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You can draw an armhole curve.
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The armhole curve will touch the cross back line around halfway.
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To draw a shoulder dart,
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find a midpoint on the shoulder and find a midpoint on the underarm line, half of the cross back.
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Connect two points.
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The dart length is about 3 inches.
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Mark quarter of an inch on each side.
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Make a dart.
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The width is half of an inch, right?
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To true the shoulder seam, lengthen the dart legs by about 3 sixteenths of an inch.
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True the shoulder line.
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my video episode 20 i explained how to draw a dart properly the link will be in the description box
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determine how much you want to take out at the waist for example
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if the chest is 35 inches
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and the waist is 27 inches the difference is now 8
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inches then you're going to take out 4 inches here because it's a half body.
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You can take out the same amount throughout all the darts, back, front and side seam.
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But because it's a woman's body, you might want to take out a little bit bigger at the front like this.
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You can adjust the portion according to the cup size and when you do fitting.
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Once you determine the dart width,
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draw a straight line from this midpoint and draw a back dart.
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Lengthen the dart width about 1 1⁄8 or 3 16th of an inch and through the hemline and draw a side seam.
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You already know how much you want to take in.
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Right?
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The back body is done.
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Let's practice the front.
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Measure chest divided by 12 on both vertical and horizontal lines. And draw a neckline.
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From the center front, measure half of the shoulder width.
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Go down 1 1⁄2.
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When you compare the front and back shoulders, they can be the same angle or the front shoulder can be a little more slopped.
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Draw a shoulder line.
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Measure the back shoulder length without the darts and find the same on the front shoulder.
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For the cross front, from the shoulder point, go in 3 quarters of an inch.
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This is good for the cross front.
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You can revise when you do fitting.
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Draw an armhole curve.
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The armhole curve touches around a one-third point of this guideline.
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Let's find the apex.
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From the center front, half of the bust is spun.
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from the high shoulder point to the apex.
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So this is the apex.
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From the apex, throw a guideline to the side seam and the waist.
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At the side seam, half of an inch on each side.
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I'm making a one inch width dart.
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The bigger the cup size, the larger the dart width.
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You can make a bigger dart or smaller dart depending on your cup size.
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We're going to lengthen the front body at the hand by the same amount of the side dart, whatever your dart width.
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At the side seam, take out the same amount you took out at the back side seam.
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Connect to the dart.
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And we already calculated the front dart width, right?
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So make a dart.
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And lengthen the dart legs by 3 16ths of an inch and through the waist.
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Okay, front is in green and back is in pink.
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As I said in the beginning, fitting is a really important process to get the patterns with a great fit.
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Just drafting the bodice block is a small part.
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Keep learning all other fundamental things for your great success.
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And join my Facebook group, Pattern Making Professional.
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If you have any questions along your pattern making journey, I'm there to answer your questions.
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The link is in the description box.
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This channel is totally dedicated for young professionals to take their pattern making skills to the next level.
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Have an awesome week!
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See you next time!
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Wortschatz und Sprechhinweise zu dieser Lektion
Dieses Video enthält 122 Sätze und 1264 Wörter zum Nachsprechen. Der gesprochene Teil dauert 11:26. Der Sprecher spricht gleichmäßig mit etwa 110 Wörtern pro Minute – ein angenehmes Tempo fürs Shadowing. Nur 80 % der Wörter gehören zu den 3.000 häufigsten im Englischen, der Wortschatz ist also anspruchsvoll.
Wichtiger Wortschatz in diesem Video
15 lernenswerte Wörter aus dem Video, mit Aussprache und Bedeutung:
| Wort | Aussprache | Bedeutung |
|---|---|---|
| width Substantiv | /ˈwɪtθ/ | Breite, Weite |
| curve Substantiv | /kɚv/ | Kurve |
| waist Substantiv | /weɪst/ | Taille |
| apex Substantiv | /ˈeɪ.pɛks/ | Gipfel |
| divide Verb | /dɪˈvaɪd/ | aufteilen, teilen |
| adjust Verb | /əˈd͡ʒʌst/ | anpassen, abstimmen |
| connect Verb | /kəˈnɛkt/ | verbinden |
| ease Verb | /iz/ | erleichtern, beruhigen |
| measurement Substantiv | /ˈmɛʒ.ə.mənt/ | Messung |
| horizontal Adjektiv | /ˌhoɹəˈzɑn.təl/ | horizontal, waagrecht |
| calculate Verb | /ˈkælkjʊleɪt/ | kalkulieren, berechnen |
| spin Verb | /spɪn/ | rotieren, schleudern |
| depend Verb | /dɪˈpɛnd/ | abhängen, ankommen |
| vertical Adjektiv | /ˈvɝ.tɪ.kəl/ | vertikal, senkrecht |
| bust Verb | /bʌst/ | zerbrechen, zerstören |
Phrasal Verbs, die du hören wirst
| Wort | Bedeutung |
|---|---|
| take out Verb | herausbringen, herausnehmen |
| go down Verb | absteigen, hinabsteigen |
| go up Verb | hinaufgehen, steigen |
Aussprache, auf die du achten solltest
Der Sprecher verwendet 11 Kurzformen und abgeschwächte Formen, zum Beispiel don't, I'm, we're. Sprich sie in der kurzen Form, so wie du sie hörst.
- Die „th“-Laute: width /ˈwɪtθ/, eighth /eɪtθ/, lengthen /ˈlɛŋθən/, sixteenth /ˌsɪksˈtiːnθ/
- Die Laute „sh“ und „zh“: measurement /ˈmɛʒ.ə.mənt/, misconception /ˌmɪs.kənˈsɛp.ʃən/
- Lange Wörter – auf die Betonung achten: horizontal /ˌhoɹəˈzɑn.təl/, fundamental /ˌfʌn.dəˈmɛn.təl/, intimidate /ɪnˈtɪmɪdeɪt/, misconception /ˌmɪs.kənˈsɛp.ʃən/
So übst du mit diesem Video
- Höre dir das ganze Video einmal an, ohne zu sprechen, und notiere die Wörter, die du nicht kennst.
- Sprich Satz für Satz in normaler Geschwindigkeit nach und wiederhole jeden, bis dein Rhythmus zum Sprecher passt.
- Nimm dich auf und vergleiche mit dem Original; achte dabei auf Wörter wie width, curve, waist.
Was ist die Shadowing-Technik?
Shadowing ist eine wissenschaftlich fundierte Sprachlerntechnik, die ursprünglich für die professionelle Dolmetscherausbildung entwickelt und durch den Polyglotten Dr. Alexander Arguelles populär gemacht wurde. Die Methode ist einfach aber wirkungsvoll: Du hörst englisches Audio von Muttersprachlern und wiederholst es sofort laut — wie ein Schatten, der dem Sprecher mit nur 1–2 Sekunden Verzögerung folgt. Anders als passives Hören oder Grammatikübungen zwingt Shadowing dein Gehirn und deine Mundmuskulatur, gleichzeitig echte Sprachmuster zu verarbeiten und zu reproduzieren. Studien zeigen, dass es Aussprachegenauigkeit, Intonation, Rhythmus, verbundene Sprache, Hörverständnis und Sprechflüssigkeit signifikant verbessert — was es zu einer der effektivsten Methoden für die IELTS Speaking-Vorbereitung und reale englische Kommunikation macht.