Pratique du Shadowing: How to Create a Women’s Bodice Block from Body Measurements [Pattern Making Tutorial] - Apprendre l'anglais à l'oral avec la vidéo
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Bodice Vlog Pattern Making Hi, I'm Jin.
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Welcome to Pattern Studio 101.
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This channel is all about pattern making.
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If you enjoy my videos, be sure to join my email list.
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Every week, I send out tips and techniques for pattern making that you don't want to miss.
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You can sign up for my email list on my website patternstudio101.com.
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Okay, bodice block today.
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Dropping a bodice block may seem intimidating, but it's actually quite straightforward.
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However, before we dive into the tutorial, I want to clarify a common misconception about bodice blocks.
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Some people believe that having a bodice block is a magical solution that allows you to create any garment you want.
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But I want to say that's not true.
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While it's possible to use a bodice block to create garments with a similar fit to the bodice block,
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many designs deviate significantly from the bodice block.
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For instance, if you wanted to create shirts or jackets like these examples,
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you would have to modify the bodice block by adjusting the underarm point,
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shoulder width, neck width, armhole curve, and adding proper ease for each design.
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Even if you start with a bodice block that perfectly fits,
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you will still need to adjust it for each design and do multiple fittings to get the final fit you want.
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So instead of solely focusing on having a pattern block,
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it's essential to learn and understand the basics of bodice block making.
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This includes understanding how to determine dart width, how to apply measurement to patterns,
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how much ease is appropriate for each design,
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how to adjust patterns for different body shapes, postures, and fabrics.
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Once you comprehend these principles, you don't need bodice blocks to make design patterns.
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You will be able to make any patterns from scratch.
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With that said, I'll show you an easy method for creating a woman's body's block today.
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Let's get started.
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You need body measurement.
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Chest circumference, waist circumference, shoulder width,
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back length, apex length, and bust span.
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You can measure cross chest and cross back if you want, but you don't have to.
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We can calculate with the shoulder width later.
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If you need help taking body measurement, I have a how to measure guide.
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You can download it on my website, patternstudio101.com.
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It's free.
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Draw a rectangle.
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Vertical is the back length.
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Horizontal is half of your chest plus one inch or one inch and a half.
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The total ease will be 2 to 3 inches.
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From the center back, measure down chest divided by 4 minus half of an inch for the armhole depth
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and draw an underarm line.
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I don't calculate armhole depth with the chest circumference, but this can be a good starting point.
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I made an armhole depth chart by types of designs.
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Go to my website patternstudio101.com and download it.
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Find a midpoint on the horizontal line.
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If you draw a line here, then the front and back chest will be the same, right?
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But I will move the point 1 8th of an inch towards the back.
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So my front is a little bit bigger than the back.
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Depending on the cup size, you can make an even bigger front than this.
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Draw a side seam.
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Let's draw the back.
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From the center back neck point, measure chest divided by 12.
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And divide this by 3 and go up the same length. and draw a neckline.
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From the center back neck point, measure half of the shoulder width.
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Go down 3 eighths of an inch.
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Connect the high shoulder point.
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We're going to have a half of an inch width dart on the shoulder.
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So extend the line by half of an inch.
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So this is now the shoulder point.
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From the shoulder point, measure in half of an inch and draw on crossback guideline.
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You can draw an armhole curve.
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The armhole curve will touch the cross back line around halfway.
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To draw a shoulder dart,
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find a midpoint on the shoulder and find a midpoint on the underarm line, half of the cross back.
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Connect two points.
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The dart length is about 3 inches.
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Mark quarter of an inch on each side.
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Make a dart.
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The width is half of an inch, right?
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To true the shoulder seam, lengthen the dart legs by about 3 sixteenths of an inch.
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True the shoulder line.
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my video episode 20 i explained how to draw a dart properly the link will be in the description box
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determine how much you want to take out at the waist for example
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if the chest is 35 inches
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and the waist is 27 inches the difference is now 8
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inches then you're going to take out 4 inches here because it's a half body.
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You can take out the same amount throughout all the darts, back, front and side seam.
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But because it's a woman's body, you might want to take out a little bit bigger at the front like this.
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You can adjust the portion according to the cup size and when you do fitting.
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Once you determine the dart width,
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draw a straight line from this midpoint and draw a back dart.
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Lengthen the dart width about 1 1⁄8 or 3 16th of an inch and through the hemline and draw a side seam.
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You already know how much you want to take in.
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Right?
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The back body is done.
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Let's practice the front.
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Measure chest divided by 12 on both vertical and horizontal lines. And draw a neckline.
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From the center front, measure half of the shoulder width.
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Go down 1 1⁄2.
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When you compare the front and back shoulders, they can be the same angle or the front shoulder can be a little more slopped.
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Draw a shoulder line.
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Measure the back shoulder length without the darts and find the same on the front shoulder.
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For the cross front, from the shoulder point, go in 3 quarters of an inch.
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This is good for the cross front.
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You can revise when you do fitting.
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Draw an armhole curve.
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The armhole curve touches around a one-third point of this guideline.
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Let's find the apex.
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From the center front, half of the bust is spun.
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from the high shoulder point to the apex.
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So this is the apex.
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From the apex, throw a guideline to the side seam and the waist.
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At the side seam, half of an inch on each side.
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I'm making a one inch width dart.
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The bigger the cup size, the larger the dart width.
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You can make a bigger dart or smaller dart depending on your cup size.
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We're going to lengthen the front body at the hand by the same amount of the side dart, whatever your dart width.
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At the side seam, take out the same amount you took out at the back side seam.
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Connect to the dart.
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And we already calculated the front dart width, right?
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So make a dart.
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And lengthen the dart legs by 3 16ths of an inch and through the waist.
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Okay, front is in green and back is in pink.
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As I said in the beginning, fitting is a really important process to get the patterns with a great fit.
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Just drafting the bodice block is a small part.
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Keep learning all other fundamental things for your great success.
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And join my Facebook group, Pattern Making Professional.
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If you have any questions along your pattern making journey, I'm there to answer your questions.
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The link is in the description box.
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This channel is totally dedicated for young professionals to take their pattern making skills to the next level.
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Have an awesome week!
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See you next time!
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Vocabulaire et conseils d’expression pour cette leçon
Cette vidéo contient 122 phrases et 1264 mots à répéter en shadowing. La partie parlée dure 11:26. Le locuteur parle à un rythme régulier d’environ 110 mots par minute, confortable pour le shadowing. Seuls 80 % des mots font partie des 3 000 mots les plus courants en anglais, le vocabulaire est donc exigeant.
Vocabulaire clé de cette vidéo
15 mots de la vidéo à retenir, avec leur prononciation et leur sens :
| Mot | Prononciation | Sens |
|---|---|---|
| dart nom | /dɑɹt/ | dard, trait |
| width nom | /ˈwɪtθ/ | grandeur |
| curve nom | /kɚv/ | courbe |
| waist nom | /weɪst/ | taille |
| apex nom | /ˈeɪ.pɛks/ | apex, sommet |
| divide verbe | /dɪˈvaɪd/ | diviser, fendre |
| adjust verbe | /əˈd͡ʒʌst/ | ajuster |
| connect verbe | /kəˈnɛkt/ | accoupler, connecter |
| ease verbe | /iz/ | abaisser, abréger |
| measurement nom | /ˈmɛʒ.ə.mənt/ | mesure |
| horizontal adjectif | /ˌhoɹəˈzɑn.təl/ | horizontal |
| calculate verbe | /ˈkælkjʊleɪt/ | calculer |
| spin verbe | /spɪn/ | tournoyer, pivoter rapidement |
| depend verbe | /dɪˈpɛnd/ | dépendre |
| vertical adjectif | /ˈvɝ.tɪ.kəl/ | vertical |
Les verbes à particule que vous entendrez
| Mot | Sens |
|---|---|
| take out verbe | supprimer, sortir |
| go down verbe | descendre |
| go up verbe | monter, s'élever |
Prononciation à surveiller
Le locuteur utilise 11 contractions et formes réduites, comme don't, I'm, we're. Prononcez-les sous leur forme courte, telles que vous les entendez.
- Les sons « th »: width /ˈwɪtθ/, eighth /eɪtθ/, lengthen /ˈlɛŋθən/, sixteenth /ˌsɪksˈtiːnθ/
- Les sons « sh » et « zh »: measurement /ˈmɛʒ.ə.mənt/, misconception /ˌmɪs.kənˈsɛp.ʃən/
- Mots longs — placez bien l’accent: horizontal /ˌhoɹəˈzɑn.təl/, fundamental /ˌfʌn.dəˈmɛn.təl/, intimidate /ɪnˈtɪmɪdeɪt/, misconception /ˌmɪs.kənˈsɛp.ʃən/
Comment s’entraîner avec cette vidéo
- Écoutez la vidéo en entier une fois sans parler et notez les mots que vous ne connaissez pas.
- Répétez phrase par phrase à vitesse normale, en reprenant chacune jusqu’à ce que votre rythme corresponde à celui du locuteur.
- Enregistrez-vous et comparez avec l’original, en faisant attention à des mots comme dart, width, curve.
Qu'est-ce que la technique du Shadowing ?
Le Shadowing est une technique d'apprentissage des langues fondée sur la science, développée à l'origine pour la formation des interprètes professionnels. Le principe est simple mais puissant : vous écoutez de l'anglais natif et le répétez immédiatement à voix haute — comme une ombre suivant le locuteur avec un décalage de 1 à 2 secondes. Les recherches montrent une amélioration significative de la précision de la prononciation, de l'intonation, du rythme, des liaisons, de la compréhension orale et de la fluidité.