跟讀練習: How to Create a Women’s Bodice Block from Body Measurements [Pattern Making Tutorial] - 通過影片學習英語口語
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Bodice Vlog Pattern Making Hi, I'm Jin.
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Welcome to Pattern Studio 101.
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This channel is all about pattern making.
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If you enjoy my videos, be sure to join my email list.
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Every week, I send out tips and techniques for pattern making that you don't want to miss.
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You can sign up for my email list on my website patternstudio101.com.
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Okay, bodice block today.
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Dropping a bodice block may seem intimidating, but it's actually quite straightforward.
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However, before we dive into the tutorial, I want to clarify a common misconception about bodice blocks.
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Some people believe that having a bodice block is a magical solution that allows you to create any garment you want.
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But I want to say that's not true.
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While it's possible to use a bodice block to create garments with a similar fit to the bodice block,
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many designs deviate significantly from the bodice block.
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For instance, if you wanted to create shirts or jackets like these examples,
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you would have to modify the bodice block by adjusting the underarm point,
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shoulder width, neck width, armhole curve, and adding proper ease for each design.
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Even if you start with a bodice block that perfectly fits,
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you will still need to adjust it for each design and do multiple fittings to get the final fit you want.
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So instead of solely focusing on having a pattern block,
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it's essential to learn and understand the basics of bodice block making.
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This includes understanding how to determine dart width, how to apply measurement to patterns,
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how much ease is appropriate for each design,
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how to adjust patterns for different body shapes, postures, and fabrics.
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Once you comprehend these principles, you don't need bodice blocks to make design patterns.
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You will be able to make any patterns from scratch.
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With that said, I'll show you an easy method for creating a woman's body's block today.
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Let's get started.
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You need body measurement.
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Chest circumference, waist circumference, shoulder width,
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back length, apex length, and bust span.
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You can measure cross chest and cross back if you want, but you don't have to.
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We can calculate with the shoulder width later.
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If you need help taking body measurement, I have a how to measure guide.
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You can download it on my website, patternstudio101.com.
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It's free.
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Draw a rectangle.
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Vertical is the back length.
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Horizontal is half of your chest plus one inch or one inch and a half.
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The total ease will be 2 to 3 inches.
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From the center back, measure down chest divided by 4 minus half of an inch for the armhole depth
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and draw an underarm line.
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I don't calculate armhole depth with the chest circumference, but this can be a good starting point.
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I made an armhole depth chart by types of designs.
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Go to my website patternstudio101.com and download it.
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Find a midpoint on the horizontal line.
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If you draw a line here, then the front and back chest will be the same, right?
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But I will move the point 1 8th of an inch towards the back.
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So my front is a little bit bigger than the back.
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Depending on the cup size, you can make an even bigger front than this.
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Draw a side seam.
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Let's draw the back.
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From the center back neck point, measure chest divided by 12.
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And divide this by 3 and go up the same length. and draw a neckline.
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From the center back neck point, measure half of the shoulder width.
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Go down 3 eighths of an inch.
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Connect the high shoulder point.
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We're going to have a half of an inch width dart on the shoulder.
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So extend the line by half of an inch.
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So this is now the shoulder point.
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From the shoulder point, measure in half of an inch and draw on crossback guideline.
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You can draw an armhole curve.
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The armhole curve will touch the cross back line around halfway.
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To draw a shoulder dart,
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find a midpoint on the shoulder and find a midpoint on the underarm line, half of the cross back.
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Connect two points.
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The dart length is about 3 inches.
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Mark quarter of an inch on each side.
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Make a dart.
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The width is half of an inch, right?
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To true the shoulder seam, lengthen the dart legs by about 3 sixteenths of an inch.
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True the shoulder line.
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my video episode 20 i explained how to draw a dart properly the link will be in the description box
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determine how much you want to take out at the waist for example
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if the chest is 35 inches
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and the waist is 27 inches the difference is now 8
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inches then you're going to take out 4 inches here because it's a half body.
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You can take out the same amount throughout all the darts, back, front and side seam.
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But because it's a woman's body, you might want to take out a little bit bigger at the front like this.
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You can adjust the portion according to the cup size and when you do fitting.
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Once you determine the dart width,
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draw a straight line from this midpoint and draw a back dart.
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Lengthen the dart width about 1 1⁄8 or 3 16th of an inch and through the hemline and draw a side seam.
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You already know how much you want to take in.
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Right?
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The back body is done.
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Let's practice the front.
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Measure chest divided by 12 on both vertical and horizontal lines. And draw a neckline.
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From the center front, measure half of the shoulder width.
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Go down 1 1⁄2.
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When you compare the front and back shoulders, they can be the same angle or the front shoulder can be a little more slopped.
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Draw a shoulder line.
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Measure the back shoulder length without the darts and find the same on the front shoulder.
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For the cross front, from the shoulder point, go in 3 quarters of an inch.
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This is good for the cross front.
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You can revise when you do fitting.
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Draw an armhole curve.
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The armhole curve touches around a one-third point of this guideline.
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Let's find the apex.
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From the center front, half of the bust is spun.
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from the high shoulder point to the apex.
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So this is the apex.
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From the apex, throw a guideline to the side seam and the waist.
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At the side seam, half of an inch on each side.
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I'm making a one inch width dart.
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The bigger the cup size, the larger the dart width.
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You can make a bigger dart or smaller dart depending on your cup size.
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We're going to lengthen the front body at the hand by the same amount of the side dart, whatever your dart width.
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At the side seam, take out the same amount you took out at the back side seam.
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Connect to the dart.
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And we already calculated the front dart width, right?
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So make a dart.
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And lengthen the dart legs by 3 16ths of an inch and through the waist.
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Okay, front is in green and back is in pink.
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As I said in the beginning, fitting is a really important process to get the patterns with a great fit.
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Just drafting the bodice block is a small part.
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Keep learning all other fundamental things for your great success.
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And join my Facebook group, Pattern Making Professional.
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If you have any questions along your pattern making journey, I'm there to answer your questions.
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The link is in the description box.
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This channel is totally dedicated for young professionals to take their pattern making skills to the next level.
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Have an awesome week!
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See you next time!
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本課的詞彙與口語要點
這段影片共有 122 個句子、1264 個單詞可供跟讀。 講話部分時長為 11:26。 說話人語速平穩，每分鐘約 110 個詞，很適合跟讀。 只有 80% 的單詞屬於英語最常用的 3,000 詞，詞彙難度較高。
影片中的重點詞彙
影片中 15 個值得學習的單詞，附發音和釋義：
| 單詞 | 發音 | 釋義 |
|---|---|---|
| width 名詞 | /ˈwɪtθ/ | 寬度 /寬度 |
| curve 名詞 | /kɚv/ | 彎子 /彎子 |
| waist 名詞 | /weɪst/ | 腰, 腰部 |
| apex 名詞 | /ˈeɪ.pɛks/ | 頂 /頂, 尖 |
| divide 動詞 | /dɪˈvaɪd/ | 分, 分裂 |
| adjust 動詞 | /əˈd͡ʒʌst/ | 調整 /調整 |
| connect 動詞 | /kəˈnɛkt/ | 連線 /連線 |
| measurement 名詞 | /ˈmɛʒ.ə.mənt/ | 尺寸 |
| horizontal 形容詞 | /ˌhoɹəˈzɑn.təl/ | 水平, 橫的 /橫的 |
| calculate 動詞 | /ˈkælkjʊleɪt/ | 計算 /計算, 算 |
| spin 動詞 | /spɪn/ | 轉動 /轉動, 自轉 /自轉 |
| depend 動詞 | /dɪˈpɛnd/ | 信任, 信賴 /信賴 |
| vertical 形容詞 | /ˈvɝ.tɪ.kəl/ | 豎的 /豎的, 垂直 |
| garment 名詞 | /ˈɡɑɹmənt/ | 衣服, 服裝 |
| chart 名詞 | /t͡ʃɑɹt/ | 圖表 /圖表 |
影片中出現的短語動詞
| 單詞 | 釋義 |
|---|---|
| take out 動詞 | 取出 |
| go down 動詞 | 下降, 下去 |
| go up 動詞 | 上昇 /上升, 上去 |
需要注意的發音
說話人用了 11 次縮略和弱讀形式，例如 don't, I'm, we're。請按聽到的簡短形式來說。
- “th” 音: width /ˈwɪtθ/, eighth /eɪtθ/, lengthen /ˈlɛŋθən/, sixteenth /ˌsɪksˈtiːnθ/
- “sh” 和 “zh” 音: measurement /ˈmɛʒ.ə.mənt/, misconception /ˌmɪs.kənˈsɛp.ʃən/
- 長單詞——注意重音位置: horizontal /ˌhoɹəˈzɑn.təl/, fundamental /ˌfʌn.dəˈmɛn.təl/, intimidate /ɪnˈtɪmɪdeɪt/, misconception /ˌmɪs.kənˈsɛp.ʃən/
如何用這段影片練習
- 先完整聽一遍影片，不要開口，記下不認識的單詞。
- 用正常速度逐句跟讀，每句重複到你的節奏與說話人一致為止。
- 錄下自己的聲音並與原聲對比，特別注意 width, curve, waist 這類單詞。
什麼是跟讀法？
跟讀法 (Shadowing) 是一種有科學依據的語言學習技巧，最初開發用於專業口譯員的培訓，並由多語言者Alexander Arguelles博士普及。這個方法簡單而強大：您在聽英語母語原聲的同時立即大聲重複——就像是一個延遲1-2秒緊跟說話者的影子。與被動聽力或語法練習不同，跟讀法強迫您的大腦和口腔肌肉同時處理並模模擬實的講話模式。研究表明它能顯著提高發音準確性，語調，節奏，連讀，聽力理解和口語流利度——使其成為雅思口語備考和真實英語交流最有效的方法之一。