Pratica di Shadowing: BMW E60 M5 Ultimate Buyers Guide - Impara a parlare inglese con i video

Oh, what's that?

You want to buy yourself a BMW E60 M5?

Well, imagine finding your dream E60 M5, only to discover a ticking time bomb under the hood after you've signed the papers.

But what if I told you the E60 M5, with the right knowledge, can be a surprisingly reliable car, even in 2025?

Today, we're breaking down the ultimate pre-purchase inspection checklist,

empowering you to make a bulletproof buying decision and drive away with confidence not regret.

Right, so first things first, this car that we're standing in front of right now is a 2005 model, so it's 20 years old right now.

Now I've owned this car for approximately seven years.

I've owned many BMWs over the years.

I've owned nothing but BMWs for the last 16 years

and I can tell you right now that this is one of the most reliable cars I have ever owned.

now I've been running this YouTube channel for approximately the same length of time

that I've owned this e60 m5 and during

that time that's exposed me to a lot of conversations with other e60 m5 owners around the world

and the majority of feedback that I get from all of them

which is overwhelming is the fact that they've found the same

that the car is incredibly reliable now this might seem in contrast

and contradict all the information that you've probably read out there or you've heard from YouTube car reviewers, this type of thing, you know.

But the reality is the feedback that I've had on these cars and how reliable people have found them

has come from people that have actually owned these cars in the real world.

It's real world experience.

They've lived and breathed that ownership experience.

Now, there is one caveat to what I'm telling you here.

If you do own one of these cars, you do have to look after it properly,

which I'll get into in more detail when we take a look at that big V10 engine.

Now secondly these cars did come in a variety of colours.

There's burgundy, silver, blue, grey, black, white and a few others and they did come with some awesome options too.

Optional extras such as seats with active bolsters, heated seats, even cooled seats.

You could get dynamic

headlamps alcantara headliner a rear blind and many other options available too

but now that i've said all that forget all that

because you don't want to go into buying one of these cars just based on the color

that you like or the spec

that you like you don't want to buy them on spec

you want to buy one of these cars on condition alone

because these cars have been around a long time now they've been around the block a few times

and there's many out there that ain't been looked after

that very well they're pretty ropey condition right then let's get into it

and let's first start off by taking a look at

that big 5 liter v10 screamer of an engine right let's have a look in the engine bay

and let's take a look at this engine and oh boy what an engine the s85

5 liter V10 absolute screamer of an engine revs to 8

250 rpms took inspiration from the formula 1 design at the time

and even the engine blocks were manufactured in the same factory

that the formula 1 V10 engine blocks were during this era how awesome is

that now it's an incredibly well-built engine and an incredibly strong engine and it can withstand a lot of hammer

likes to be revved out and it likes to be driven hard

and again this car's 20 years old and in the nearly seven years

that i've owned this vehicle never had any major problems with this engine now

that might sound contrary to all the information out there on

these cars these engines do frighten a lot of people

but it's a very well built engine and if you look after it properly and be mindful

of what it is you shouldn't have any real issues with the engine nothing major and these engines

are designed and manufactured slightly different just to the regular BMW engines the straight sixes or whatever

when you dig deep into one of these engines you can just see how well made they are to put

that in perspective like I say this car's 20 years old

in my ownership this engine has had zero oil leaks nothing

from the timing system nothing from the rocker covers nothing from

the oil pan all right the oil pan gasket has been

changed in the past through a maintenance procedure nothing from the rear main seal nothing zero oil leaks in

that time which you can't say about a regular non-m bmw engine okay i'm saying all this

so you might be thinking to yourself all right m tech guy I've heard

or I know about some of these engines out there

that have had catastrophic failure in the real world

and of course a lot of that talk always comes down to the rod bearings

and I've heard it all before I've heard all the talk

about all the rod bearings the tolerances are too tight

and that's why they fail and BMW designed it incorrectly

and people are going through and redoing the rod bearings

and putting ones in there with extra clearance

because yeah some dude in his garage knows way much more than the guys who designed this engine right Yeah, righty-o.

What you've got to remember is, this is a V10 engine with a reasonably heavy crank, and it's a long crankshaft operating 10 pistons,

which isn't normally a big deal unless you're revving it out to 8250rpms.

Now, them conrods and the rod bearings are under an immense amount of pressure.

If you've got too much slop in there, too much clearance, it's going to upset the balance, it's going to upset the wear and cause a whole number of other issues.

They were designed like that for a reason.

Now there's only two things that you can do to these vehicles to cause the rod bearings to fail.

Number one, use the wrong oil if you're not using the fully synthetic 10W60.

It was recommended from the factory due to its sheer strength.

So it's going to hold up to them high RPMs and all that pressure.

And as long as you change it regularly, you should be fine

if you try switching to a thinner oil with this mindset

that oh it's going to flow better

because then tight tolerances on the bearings it will cause accelerated wear

because that thinner oil can't hold up to the sheer strength

that it needs and secondly

and probably the number one cause of rod bearing issues with

these cars is people revving the engine out from cold you've

got to be mindful of this isn't an everyday engine it's

not an everyday car it's pretty much a supercar engine you're not driving a ford fiesta

so don't jump in the car from cold

and rev the guts out of it because

that 10w60 is like treacle it is thick oil

and it needs to warm up properly to flow properly to give them bearings the protection

that they need under high load

when you take the car out let it warm up properly before you rev the engine out

and listen i drive this car hard pretty much every time

i take it out i always every journey pretty much let

it rev out to 8 250 rpm that's what it's all

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about with this car i love the sound of this engine

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and after nearly seven years i have not got tired of it is an absolute phenomenal engine

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but you got to let that oil warm up first

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so normally drive the car keep it under 3000 rpms until

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that oil temperature gauge is sitting more

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or less in the middle then you're good to go

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and this engine and the rod bearings will take all the hammer

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that you can give it but

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if you're going to rev it out from cold you're you're going to wear them rod bearings

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and eventually it's going to spin a bearing.

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So if you keep them two things in mind, use the proper Tendalview 60 oil,

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change it regularly and don't rev it out from cold and you shouldn't have any issues with the rod bearings.

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Now even though it is a tough engine, it certainly isn't without its quirks and all the common issues

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that can happen with this engine will happen by now the car's 20 years old they're very well understood

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and there are solutions out there to pretty much anything

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that can slightly go wrong with these engines

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so let's walk through some of these issues

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that can happen with these vehicles due to the age of the vehicle all right

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so let's start at the top

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and let's start with the cooling system now unlike many bmws

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the cooling system is pretty robust in these vehicles in very rare cases expansion tank can crack

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but it is very rare so it is worth just casting your eye over

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that if you're looking at a vehicle let's check the hoses

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but they should look okay mine are all still the original hoses as it left the factory

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but the main thing that normally fails with the cooling system on these vehicles is the thermostat

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which lives just under there luckily it is designed to fail open

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when it does fail

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so all that's going to mean is the car is going to take forever to warm up

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so that's a good way of telling right off the bat

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if you take the car for a test drive from cold

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that temperature isn't coming up in sort of five to ten minutes it's taking way longer then that'll tell you

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that it's more likely the thermostat is stuck open

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and these engines for some reason love to eat thermostats

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so it's not unusual to find one with a failed one the other thing is the temperature sensor

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which sits in the via the engine

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they can fail also whether that fails or the thermostat

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or both they normally throw fault codes it's normally not difficult

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to diagnose the issue water pumps i've never seen one fail

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on one of these cars they are pretty robust you want to go through

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and change it when you do your thermostat so be it

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while all the coolant's drained out well mine's still got the

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original one in 20 years old 130 000 kilometers still going all right

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so far the radiator is all aluminium no plastic tanks

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on either end like many vehicles nowadays

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so you shouldn't have any issues with it leaking unless it's

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had a hole poked in the front of it by some

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debris just cast your eye down there you'll soon know

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if it's leaking

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but as a whole they're a very robust radiator moving on from there you want to make sure

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that the original ear boxes are in place a lot of

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design has gone into these they work incredibly efficiently feeding the plenums

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and these have five trumpets in each a bit like velocity stacks on a sort of angle

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and the way this air feeds into there it creates a

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reasonable amount of charge pressure in there feeding the engine now just you want to make sure

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that these are in place

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and they haven't been changed out for some cold air intake

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it is going to draw in hot air into the engine

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and not going to work as efficiently as the original ones

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that are fed from these ducts down here

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and then filters in normally the cotton type which are oiled and

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that oil will contaminate your mass airflow sensors it's going to

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cause your engine not to run at the optimal settings so

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if they're on there just plan to get rid of them get the proper air boxes in there

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because they're there for a reason there's been a lot of design gone into them

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and it's there to work in conjunction with the engine properly

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right moving on next up the plenums these are built from

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solid plastic like i say they've got them trumpets inside of

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there very robust they don't really break you might find some

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cars have been changed out for the carbon fiber type ones that's a much thinner material

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and it's normally that vibration that gives it that unique noise

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that people are looking for when they change them out

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but be aware especially some of the earlier designed ones

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that carbon fiber would start coming apart

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and it can end up getting inside the engine personally i don't like them this is

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so well built and it operates

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so well all right it doesn't sound like a carbon fiber one

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but it certainly gives off an amazing induction noise i like this

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because it's the proper one normally the only issue i've seen with these is

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if a garage has been working on these engines in a

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lot of cases each side they haven't been refitted properly Now each side has got its own rubber boots,

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so they've got five on each and they connect to the individual throttle bodies.

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Now it can be quite tricky to position them in place perfectly

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and what will happen a lot of the time is you might get one or two of the boots, it'll catch the edge of that rubber boot and it'll peen it up like that.

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You won't have a full seal right the way around and it is quite hard to see there.

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So a lot of the time, a garage will just plonk that on, sort of force it in position.

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You might go on to rubber boots peened up, and then they'll just do up the jump jubilee clips, but then you could end up with a bit of a vacuum leak, so it might run a wee bit lean.

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You'll soon tell that when it's idling, it's not running right.

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And believe me, that issue is way more common than most people realise.

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If you want information on how to remove and install these plenums, I do have a video on that previously.

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Go check it out.

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They're moving down into the engine.

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The throttle bodies themselves, they're normally good as gold.

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I've never really seen any issues with them other than the boot issue.

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And operating them throttle bodies is the throttle actuators.

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The design of them, they work incredibly well.

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The way they're geared and they're sprung, even though this car has a drive-by wire and there's no throttle cable,

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it makes that throttle input very instantaneous compared to a lot of drive-by-wire single throttle bodied BMWs.

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And like I say, it's due to the way they're geared and they're sprung, but they are under a lot of tension and them gears are made of plastic.

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Because of the load that they're under, they do wear over time.

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The teeth get all rounded out.

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Normally when that happens you'll get fault codes for one bank of throttles

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and a lot of times it will trigger a specific fault code to the throttle actuator.

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If it's caught early enough you can remove them and you can buy replacement gears in the aftermarket, put the new gears in there and they're good as gold.

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If you leave them

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and the car's been operated too long with the worn out gears then it can affect the electronics also.

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Still rebuildable but it is a bit more involved for the regular DIY mechanic.

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you can buy exchange units that have already been rebuilt that's normally the way to go

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or you can still buy the genuine brand new ones so

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if you're looking at one of these vehicles

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and the throttle actuators have never been done

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and there's a reasonable amount of kilometers miles on the engine it's more than likely it'll be worn

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and it'll be due for rebuild

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or replacement now underneath the throttle actuators are the idle actuators

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now these very rarely go wrong in comparison to the throttle actuators now these are like little miniature throttle bodies

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that control your idle but it is more than an idle actuator

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because up until a couple of thousand rpms you are actually

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driving the car on the idle actuators you've got to think about it

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you've got 10 individual throttle bodies and if they're open just 10 percent

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because the amount of them

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and the accumulation of the amount open throttle bodies that's a lot of air

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that the engine sucking in so to reduce

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that their main throttle bodies the 10 of them will remain

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closed the car will be running on the idle actuators

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which are like a miniature throttle body one for each bank very rarely go wrong very rarely wear out normally

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when they do fail it's the wiring that goes to them

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and unfortunately unlike the throttle actuators they are very difficult to rebuild

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so normally in most cases the solution is just to replace them also be obvious

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if they are failing be throwing fault codes in relation to idle quality

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and you'll see it right off the bat

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when you drive the car low rpms moving on from the idle actuators 10 fuel injectors

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and these are pretty good but over time what can happen is

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when they're closed they won't seal off properly when they start getting old

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and worn and then what can happen in some cases is

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when the car shut off and you leave it overnight

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because they're not shut off properly there might be one

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or maybe multiple fuel injectors like that that fuel pressure that's in the fuel rails the two rails

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that'll bleed off through that open injector that's not sealing off properly where's

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that fuel going to go it's going to go into the cylinder now

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if enough fuel leaks in there what happens

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when you go to crank it over you're just going to hydro lock the engine

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because it won't compress that volume of liquid fuel

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because it's not atomized like when it's in operation

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and most cases you'll bend a rod you'll usually score the cylinder bores

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and as it's turning you're going to wreck the rod bearing

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or the crank as well in some cases

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so this is probably the number one thing that's going to

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destroy one of these engines of course you don't want to wait till it gets to

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that stage but it's a well-known issue

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and the solution is to change them out preventatively the car's

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got 60 000 miles on it 100 000 kilometers you could probably stretch it out to 100 000 miles

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but that'll be more

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or less the time you want to change these out 60

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000 miles 100 000 kilometers some people have had trouble getting

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replacements out of there they are getting quite rare there are

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still the genuine ones out there i actually replaced mine out with aftermarket ones

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but don't seem to be a huge amount out there at the moment

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but you can still get the genuine ones genuine being all your ones

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but they are expensive so if you're looking to buy one of these cars

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and the fuel injectors have never been changed out you definitely want to factor in the cost of getting

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that done because that is probably the number one risk to destroying one of these engines and

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if there's a reasonable amount of service history with the car

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you should be able to see frequent oil changes there

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if any have been missed or it's been ran for a long time

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or they haven't used the correct oil then of course there could be issues with the rod burns

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but the only thing with the rod bearings is there's no way

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of knowing what type of wear there is on them until

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you pull the oil pan off you pull them out

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and they're staring you in the face and when you get to

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that stage you might as well just replace them all

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so that's probably the one of the biggest things with these engines other than the fuel injectors

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if they've never been replaced you don't really know what kind

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of life the car's had it's probably had multiple owners at this stage in its life

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and even when it was new a lot of them new owners revved them out from cold

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and they only stuck to the factory oil change intervals

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because the car was under warranty i believe that's a bit

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too stretched out i like to do about 5 000 kilometers

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approximately 3 000 miles whatever just do them way more frequently

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than what the service interval actually is for these cars

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and you can't go wrong but yeah you don't know

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if they've been revved out from cold multiple times you don't know

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if they've used the right oil you don't know

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if they've stretched them oil intervals out so when you're getting into one of these cars

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you just got no idea what kind of life them rod bearings have had

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and that's probably the sticking point with these cars now most of them have got to the age now

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or the kilometers the rod bearings have been changed out preventatively exactly for this reason

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because you don't know what type of wears on them now you can get an oil analysis done

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but you really need to get that done over a long period of time

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and get multiple analysis is done and then that'll give you a trend

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and you can see exactly how much bearing wear material is in

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that oil if if any

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if you're looking to buy one of these cars you can't just take one sample

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and take a look at it doesn't work like that

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if the rod rod bearings have never been done my recommendation

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would be to factor in getting them done as soon as you get the car

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and then it'll give you

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that peace of mind as long as you let the car

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warm up properly use the correct oil you'll be good as gold for years to come

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and you'll know exactly what the state of them bearings are

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because they'll be brand new now another system

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that can cause issues with these vehicles is the vanos system the variable valve timing system

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so you've got a high pressure pump down the bottom there

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and that's actually got an internal hose early models did have issues with

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that hose leak and i think they'll revise the part a bit later on normally

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when they leak you'll get a load of vanos codes

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but the only way to change it is pulling

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that oil pan off

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and replacing the hose now just before i bought this vehicle

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seven years ago the dealer was selling this car was experiencing an issue with

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that hose so what they did they had to replace it before they sold me the car

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when they had the oil pan off luckily the technician

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that was working on it knew these cars well i think he owned one himself

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so he replaced the hose and he put a new set of rod bearings in there

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so that's really the way to go

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if you're getting into the ownership for one of these cars

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pull the pan off replace the rod bearings replace the high pressure vanoss hose

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and while everything is apart inspect the vanoss pump also because they can cause issues

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they have a bearing inside there and it can crack the race

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but you just want to make sure everything's looking okay with

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that pump if things are looking a bit dodgy then it's a perfect time to get it replaced

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but then races can get damaged and leak fragments there's something to keep in mind

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so do the rod bearings do the hard pressure vanos line check out the pump replace it

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if necessary they are expensive sometimes you can get away with

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a good second hand one it's in good condition bear in

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mind there are two different pumps they've got different teeth profiles there's an early type

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and a late type so just want to make sure you've got the correct pump

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if you're going down

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that route then moving on from the bottom of the vanos

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system up to the top here You've got Vanos keys here driving the camshafts, and you've got two Vanos solenoids on each bank, four all together.

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The solenoids can fail, as with any electrical solenoid.

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Now, the early type had a black body on them.

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The later type had a metal, silver-looking body.

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So you'll be able to see straight away if they've been changed out, because they'll have been changed out with the silver-bodied ones.

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Two of mine have been replaced.

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Two are still original, 20 years old, and I think the only reason the two that have been replaced were replaced

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was part of the diagnostic process

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that they were going through before they got to the point

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where they realized it was the hose leaking inside the oil pan

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so they're pretty robust normally it's just the o-rings that are leaking

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so if you do have vanos issues

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that do get diagnosed get to get traced back to the

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solenoids themselves it is worth just chucking some new o-rings on there initially it's usually

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that that's leaking and letting the vanos pressure by and they do run at an incredibly high pressure.

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Now the gears themselves, there are an early type and the late type.

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It's the exhaust gears.

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They've got a spring in them.

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Now the early type, they were prone to rattling, will give off that classic S85 V10 engine noise that you'll see in pretty much all of my videos.

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It's not a big deal.

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It does frighten a few people.

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It doesn't sound good, but it is completely normal and it's not a big deal and it's not a problem.

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If it really bothers you you can change it out for the later exhaust gears

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but I just live with it and I kind of like the noise

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because it's all part of the character of these engines the

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vanos system as a whole is a very noisy system of

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course you've got two gears here meshing together there's no chain it's not chain driven just gears meshing

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so you're going to hear all that wearing away it's going to make a noise

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and then if you've got the early type like me you're going to hear

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that exhaust gear giving off that classic s85 rattle also

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so the main things to look out for with s85 v10

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engine headlamps in most cases like most e60s you'll probably find

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that the lenses got all uv damaged and the standard yellow

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and get worn put our mine over on the left hand side unlike the early e46 b

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and we usually can't just replace the lens easily they're bonded onto the body of the headlamp itself

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so it can be done but it is messy

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and to be honest with you they're never the same again they never seal up properly

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when you've cut it all away sealed it

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and replaced them can be done

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but the solution really is to replace the whole headlamp

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which is super expensive or alternatively just go through

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and restore the plastic give it a bit of a sealer on there a bit of uv protectant

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and it should be fine our headlamps themselves have got the

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xenon bulbs most of the m5s came specced with the dynamic headlamps

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so not only will they adjust up and down

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but also side to side as you're cornering it's an awesome feature i found it very useful

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when i'm taking this out for a spin at night time on the mountain roads

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and you can really see it doing its thing

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but they are driven by a little actuator inside the headlamp there

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and they're controlled by a little dynamic headlamp controller these can

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fail over time can be a bit tricky to diagnose

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but you will get a headlamp fault up on the dashboard there it'll just look like a bulb

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so if you are looking to buy one of these vehicles

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and that warning's up on the dash don't be fooled

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that you're thinking oh it's just a bulb

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that wants replacing you can go around check all the bulbs easily and if they're all lit up

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okay in most cases it's either the controller or the actuator that's failed

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so factor that in to the cost if you're looking at a vehicle

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that does have that fault

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and with the fuel system feeding them 10 fuel injectors of

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course you start the back of the car at the tank and you've got an in-tank filter and an in-tank fuel pump.

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The fuel pumps can fail over time.

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If you there is some service history with the car, it would be nice to see that the filter has been changed out.

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If it hasn't, factor that in to your ownership if you're going to get into the car.

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The pump's never been done.

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It might be worth changing it out at this sort of age as a preventative item.

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They do fail.

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They are a two stage pump, low pressure and a high pressure all in one pump.

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So either the low pressure will fail and it just pretty much won't be running.

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Or it'll be the high pressure that fails.

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So the car will look like it runs sweet at low pressure

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if you take the car out

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and you're absolutely caning it you're revving it out we'll come up with a fuel pressure fault

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because it can't reach it can't maintain that high pressure

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and moving on from the pump you've got the fuel lines down the side here

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and it comes up and feeds the injectors like that from

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that left hand front wheel arch now inside there is your

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fuel pressure sensor they can fail also the car's got fuel pressure issues in a lot of cases it's either

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that or the pump most cases it's the sensor itself the car is running reasonably well the charcoal canister

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which lives under the right and rear wheel well here can fail

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and what that will cause is excessive vacuum to build in your fuel tank

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because it won't be able to vent to atmosphere properly

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and then what

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that will cause over the long term in some cases in the worst case scenario is

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that vacuum can pull your tank inwards

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and cause it to collapse then you need a new fuel tank they ain't cheap

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and it's a reasonably labour intensive job to change it out.

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Now an easy way to tell that charcoal canister has failed, if you open the fuel door here, take off the fuel camp, if you hear a big whoosh of vacuum,

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it's gasping for air, you know in most cases it's the charcoal canister that's failed.

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Not hugely expensive parts and not too hard to get at, you've just got to take the wheel liner off to gain access to it,

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but it is something you want to factor in before the

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fuel tank gets destroyed you are going to get into the

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vehicle there are also two purge valves inside the V of

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the engine there will purge valves in some cases they can fail

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but you'll soon know about it because they'll be coming up with emissions fault codes

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so it should be relatively straightforward to diagnose they're not too

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expensive not too hard to access it once the plenums are

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off suspension these cars came equipped with the EDC suspension it's awesome setup for these cars you see the connectors

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here for them on top of the strut towers.

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You've got three settings.

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The system works awesome but as these cars age if there's a lot of kilometres on the car

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or even getting to this sort of age 20 years old

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they're going to be running a lot weaker than they were

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when they were brand new and because that way is

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so accumulative in small stages over time It's not something that an owner really notices.

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Now I got the front shocks changed out on mine.

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The genuine BMW EDC shocks.

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And it made a hell of a difference to the way the car rode.

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But them shocks are super, super expensive.

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Now why did I get them changed out?

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Because they were leaking.

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And although they're pretty tough shocks, they are made of aluminium.

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And if they have had a lot of hammer, especially in the stiff setting.

440

If you've been going over a lot of potholes, a lot of holes in the road, a little damaged roads, this type of thing and they've got a lot of hammer that can cause them to leak.

441

So if you're looking at one of these vehicles, just go around and just poke your nose in the wheel arches through the wheels

442

and just make sure that they're not leaking.

443

If they are, you're going to have to factor in cost to replace them.

444

Over here in New Zealand, if they've got a reasonable leak, that is an annual inspection failure, a WAF failure, like an MOT in the UK.

445

So it might be something you'll have to get done just to make your car legally roadworthy.

446

So they are expensive, there are aftermarket alternatives out there, but none of them ride like the original ones when they're brand new.

447

Most of them are a tiny bit stiffer, but they work out a lot cheaper, and there are some good brands out there.

448

So there are different options.

449

You don't have to go and splurge thousands and thousands of dollars on the genuine ones.

450

Now, as you look in the engine bay here, there's no battery, because that's positioned in the boot.

451

You've got some jumper points here in the front.

452

One thing I will say with these cars, if it's got an older battery in there, If the car doesn't get driven that often and the battery's at low voltage,

453

it can cause all kinds of electrical issues.

454

So if there is any electrical issues whatsoever, the first thing to always do is check the battery.

455

Any doubt, replace it if it won't charge properly, if it's got to that stage in its life.

456

Because like I say, they only have to drop slightly in supply voltage

457

and they can cause all kinds of issues and fault codes.

458

And then along with the battery, the alternator, voltage regulators can fail also the alternators just like any alternator they will last a reasonable amount of time

459

but it's normally the voltage regulator that's on the back of the alternator normally fails

460

so it's not charging properly if you've got a charging fault

461

if the car you're looking at will come up with a charging fault

462

when you start up from cold even if it does start

463

and run okay it's more than likely

464

that voltage regulator on the alternator it's quite an involved job to replace it

465

so if you are going to go to

466

that extent then you might as well just put a new alternator in there

467

and forget about it for another 10 years or so however long it may last.

468

Now starter motors like any starter motor they will wear and fail over time.

469

Anything with this engine the starter motor is bolted inside the back of the V of the engine

470

and unfortunately some of the bolts that mount

471

that to the bell housing come from the gearbox side

472

so it's just about impossible to undo them bolts from the engine bay here.

473

In a lot of cases you'll have to drop the gearbox down slightly to get access to them.

474

there is a cheat away you can do it you can

475

disassemble the starter motor from its sort of main body that's bolted to the bell holes in

476

and just put the guts out of the new starter motor

477

and bolt all that up but

478

if you want to replace the whole thing it is a very labor intensive job to do the job properly

479

so if it has got starter motor issues the one the car

480

that you're looking at just keep

481

that in mind it's not as straightforward as it's not just

482

on the side of the block like most cars huge amount

483

of hours involved in replacing it all right the smg gearbox the gearbox

484

that seems to frighten everybody i don't know why people are

485

so concerned about the smg3 because it is a fantastic gearbox

486

and again car's 20 years old i've owned it for just

487

about seven years never had any issues whatsoever with this smg gearbox

488

and it shifts absolutely beautifully now i hear a lot of people comment normally people that have either never driven one

489

or usually YouTube car reviewers that have only driven the car for an afternoon

490

and all of a sudden they're an expert on it saying that the gearbox shifts clunky.

491

I certainly wouldn't call it a clunky gearbox.

492

If you try

493

and drive it like a modern eight-speed ZF automatic then yeah

494

maybe it is going to feel a little bit more clunky than something like

495

that but I've never found it any more clunky or notchy than say GM TH350 automatic transmission from the 1970s.

496

You'd find in a lot of American cars from that period

497

but that's driving this in automatic mode

498

but what you've got to remember is this is not an automatic gearbox and that's the mistake a lot of people make.

499

It's a seven speed manual gearbox but you've got no clutch pedal

500

and you've got no actual real shifter connected to anything because that's looked after by a hydraulic system.

501

So you've got hydraulic solenoids for the whole shift pattern and the same for your clutch actuation.

502

Yep you can set it up to drive in automatic mode

503

and has an incredibly smart computer looking after things

504

so yeah you can set it up in automatic mode you

505

don't have to worry about any shifting will go up

506

and down the gears all by itself but just remember

507

that it is a manual gearbox with a real clutch single clutch just like any just regular manual gearbox

508

but that computer is going to look after the shifting

509

so it's not like an automatic transmission with a torque converter

510

so it's never going to run as smooth as an automatic transmission.

511

It's only ever going to run as smooth as a real manual gearbox.

512

But the difference between this and a regular manual gearbox is this can shift incredibly quick compared to a human being.

513

Now, you can alter the shift settings.

514

You've got five different settings to choose from, from lazy to incredibly fast banging it through the gears, and you can even go up to a sixth shift setting if you turn the traction control off.

515

so what you'll find when you're driving it

516

and banging it through the gears if you're really revving it out

517

and you've got it in an aggressive shift setting it will absolutely slam through the gears

518

but don't worry

519

because this gearbox can take it it's an incredibly strong it's a big seven speed manual gearbox

520

and it's built like a truck gearbox it can handle it

521

so you've got automatic mode manual mode you can either shift with this make-believe shifter

522

which is not actually connected to the gears it's just basically a switch

523

or you've got the paddles on here

524

but as you shift through it is actually a manual gearbox

525

shifting through them gears it's just been shifted via them shift solenoids

526

so you've got seven speeds it works incredibly efficiently

527

but you can't get in this car

528

and drive it like an automatic you've got to have the mindset

529

that you're driving a real manual gearbox

530

because that's what it is underneath all the hydraulics so

531

when you take the car for a test drive just make

532

sure with the accelerator pedal you're driving with some intention

533

and you're shifting with intention

534

because you as a human being has still got to tell the computer what you want

535

and that's got to try and anticipate what's happening so

536

if you're just dawdling and pootling along the computer doesn't know whether you're coming or going

537

so it is going to shift a bit out of sync

538

it might feel not precisely how you want it to

539

so it's an incredibly strong and i've found an incredibly reliable gearbox

540

and if you drive it properly it's an absolutely beautiful gearbox to drive i love the smg3

541

and i'd go with this over a regular manual six speed

542

any day of the week now i know in america these cars

543

and the m6s were spec with the manual six speed out of the v8 m3 at the time

544

but what you've got to remember is the gear ratios in

545

that gearbox are very very different to what are in the seven speed smg

546

and to be honest the gear ratios are a bit out of whack to the v10 engine

547

so what you've got to keep in mind is this seven speed smg gearbox was designed

548

and built specifically to be used with this v10 engine now

549

how many cars out there can you say the same thing about

550

that where the gearbox and the engine were built

551

and designed together to work in unison

552

so don't just listen to the reviews out there listen to

553

information people have never driven these cars take one for a drive yourself drive it with intention

554

and drive it hard and you'll see

555

that this is an incredibly amazing gearbox paired with this engine

556

but of course anything mechanical can go wrong

557

and as these cars age getting to 20 odd years old now things can start to wear

558

and deteriorate so what can go wrong with the smg3 well

559

if anything's going wrong with it the computer is very very sensitive to any issues

560

and it'll throw a fault code be an orange

561

or red gear on the dashboard there on the display so

562

if the car you're looking at has got a warning sign

563

on the dash then you want to get the car scanned just see

564

if you can decipher what's going on with it common issues

565

with the smg3 probably the most common issue is the hydraulic pump as an electric motor to drive it

566

that electric motor can wear

567

and fail over time now they're really early ones especially in

568

a car like this 2005 they were built without facility for the dust from the brushes

569

when they get worn to exit the motor

570

so they just get clogged up blocked up

571

and also there's some stampings on the side of the brushes

572

which make them a bit too thick and they couldn't slide properly

573

and they caused issues most of them have been changed out

574

under recall now most of the m5s with murder issues have all been changed out now

575

so you'll probably find that it's not on the original one

576

but the brushes do wear over time they can fail it's very unlikely

577

that the actual pump itself will fail sometimes the seals can deteriorate

578

if it's gotten really hot at some point they can be replaced that's not a big deal

579

but pump failure to be honest i've never actually seen full-on

580

pump failure myself where the whole pump needs replacing it's usually the motor

581

that drives the pump not too expensive it's not a huge job to change it out just consider

582

that if it's not building pressure other thing is the actuator where it stores

583

that hydraulic pressure can start to fail over time

584

and an easy way to see if the the system's not holding pressure is

585

when you first unlock the car you'll hear that hydraulic pump running just like this.

586

now depending on how long it runs if it's running

587

and going on and on and on then obviously

588

that pump's trying to make up a leak somewhere

589

or some major pressure loss so that'll give you an indication

590

that something's going on with the smg system but it's not building

591

and maintaining the pressure the way it should do

592

so it could be the accumulator that's letting by more than likely especially with the cars being this age

593

if it's been ran really hot all the o-rings on the solenoids

594

or the shifts and your clutch actuation they can become hard aged

595

and brittle they're no longer pliable so they won't seal properly

596

so what it'll do is it'll let

597

that hydraulic pressure past the seals it won't build pressure properly

598

and then eventually it's going to cause shifting issues

599

and it's going to throw one of them warning cog lights the other thing is especially

600

if the car won't start properly when it's in neutral

601

that can be any number of issues

602

but a lot of the time the car has been this

603

age it can be the wiring on the side of the gearbox

604

which basically goes from the main harness to the shift block at the top insulation breaks down over time

605

and what happens is then wires start shorting out

606

so easy fix for that is to remove the harness from the gearbox

607

and just basically sleeve all the wires put it back in

608

it should be good as gold one caveat i would say

609

with this is from some reports from some of my viewers

610

especially over in the states there they do say they don't

611

experience the same sort of shift style as we do with the european vehicles

612

so mine's got my smg's got the european software

613

if you've got the american software looking after it due to emissions regulations it might shift slightly different

614

and it won't feel as smooth

615

or as nice as the ones with the european software so

616

if you're looking at a car in the states

617

and it hasn't had the software reflash to the european style it is worth considering getting

618

that done if it's legal to do so in the state

619

that you live in because it will improve your shifts no end

620

but other than the electric pump motor failing one of the

621

other most common issues with these is the slave cylinder failing

622

which is bolted of course to the bell housing there what

623

that can do it can leak your bypass clutch hydraulic pressure

624

and what that can do is leak into the bell housing

625

and contaminate your clutch unfortunately a bit like the starter motor

626

to replace it the bolts go from inside the bell housing

627

so you basically got to remove the gearbox to replace the slave cylinder

628

but to be honest with you you'd want to do anyway

629

because you want to check that clutch make sure it's not contaminated

630

if it is it's a good time to put a new clutch in there flywheel make sure

631

that looks all right and the other thing

632

that can cause issues is a clutch release bearing early versions

633

were a greased metal type later versions were like a plastic lined version

634

which shouldn't have any grease on but some garages

635

when they're replacing the clutch did grease them now this can cause issues normally you can tell

636

if it's an issue or if it's failed or if it's failing

637

when you drive the vehicle and if it's not making up

638

that clutch as you're pulling away at takeoff if it's juddering

639

or if it's just just

640

if it just doesn't feel as smooth as it should do then normally it's

641

that but release bearing you've also got the fork they can wear

642

and the wee pivot the fork is plastic the original ones they can wear over time

643

if it's been changed out for a brass one at some point they'll cause even more issues

644

so if you do go in there you want to replace with a proper plastic one

645

but to be honest unless it's just the pump motor that's causing an issue

646

if any of the hydraulic solenoids need replacing or the o-rings need doing

647

if you need to do the wiring to the shift block

648

if you've got anything to do with the clutch slave the clutch itself

649

and any of the mechanisms

650

that operates the clutch you're going to be taking the gearbox out

651

and at that stage it would just be worth going through the whole gearbox resleeve the wires

652

go through

653

and replace all the solenoid o-rings maybe put a new seal inside the pump consider replacing the pump electric motor

654

and the clutch itself and the mechanism that looks after the clutch

655

and you'll be good as gold for years to come

656

and you'll have resolved some of the not so common

657

but some of the issues that can happen with these gearboxes right the sunroof

658

when you're heading down the road just listen for any wind noise coming from this area

659

because it's very common as these cars are getting to this

660

age now for the sunroof seal to get hard to get aged

661

and shrink won't seal properly you'll get a lot of wind noise coming through there so

662

if you are hearing a bit of noise just factor in

663

the cost of a new sunroof seal they're not expensive

664

but it is something you want to get taken care of

665

also another common sunroof issue is a rattle from the metal wind deflector

666

that sits underneath there so when the sunroof is fully open you've got this wind deflector

667

that comes up like that

668

but in the closed position like it is now as the car gets old the hinges will wear on

669

that wind deflector and you'll hear it banging against the glass

670

so it'll sound like a carassel heading down the road going

671

over the bumps now it can be quite hard to diagnose this but

672

if you do hear a rattle open the sunroof screen have

673

a listen up here you can actually get your fingers in there

674

and grab a hold of it either push it up there

675

or pull it down a wee bit

676

if the rattle stops then you know what it is it's

677

an easy fix i have made videos on this previously general wear

678

and tear inside the interior check the seats the seat bolsters

679

these m5s were specced with merino leather it's a soft supple beautiful leather

680

if i wear on the bolsters can be quite expensive to repair it

681

if you did want to do so also check the alcantara headliner

682

if it was specced with it it's all hanging down

683

and whatnot it might cost you a a little bit more

684

than just getting a regular headliner repaired same with the c b

685

and a pillars and with the seats you've got the whole mechanism

686

that operates it all the electric motors the switch gear

687

and whatnot just make sure all that works usually the thing

688

that fails is the thigh support as we gear inside there

689

rather than replacing the whole motor itself you can just buy

690

a replacement gear it's not a big deal to replace it very cheap so if they're not working properly the solution

691

isn't a big deal

692

and I've made videos on this previously both of mine have been done the iDrive screen can fail

693

so just make sure it looks all right it's functioning okay these can be expensive

694

and getting a second hand unit can be quite hard to

695

track down the system's rubbish it's aged quite badly to be honest with you

696

but I don't really use it I just drive the car

697

like a car I've got a cd changer this one even came spec with a mini disc player

698

and just remember the quirks of this side driver are all part of the character of the car from this era.

699

Steering wheel is specific to the M5 even though it looks like a regular 5 series M Sport wheel

700

because it's got the M stitching around the inside there.

701

If there's any issues with this you might want to get it recovered the same

702

or finding a replacement that was an M5 or an M6 wheel can be quite difficult.

703

These shift paddles they can break I don't know how easy they are to obtain nowadays they're not hugely expensive

704

but you might have to find a used one

705

or you might have to buy a whole wheel just to

706

obtain the shift paddle they bolt to the back of the steering wheel.

707

The mirrors most of these m5s were specced with the electro

708

chromatic glass they don't wear very well over time the liquid

709

inside of them can discolour they go like a golden brown colour

710

They are expensive pieces of mirror glass to replace and now they're no longer available.

711

So unless you find some place that's still got some in stock, it's going to cost you a fortune.

712

So I found one of mine when the solution was just to replace it with the non-electrochromatic glass.

713

It's a lot cheaper.

714

They are still readily available for the genuine ones.

715

And then to be honest with you, because the electrochromatic ones fail so easily and so often, you fit these and it's kind of a set and forget.

716

You put electrochromatic ones in there even

717

if you can find one you're going to pay a fortune

718

and eventually it's going to fail again anyhow so

719

if the car you're looking at has got the electrochromatic glass

720

and it is failing there is a reasonably cheap easy solution check out the parking sensors make sure they're working properly

721

if there are any faults with the system it will normally come up on the dash normally in most cases

722

if there is a fault it's usually one of the sensors

723

that have failed that's an easy fix in some cases it can be a wiring fault

724

or the module that looks after the parking sensors the oil cooler they can leak oil believe it or not

725

so there's a connection over this side on the right hand

726

side of the oil cooler where the hoses connect there's a wee flange there

727

and that's normally where it leaks from in most cases it's just the o-rings in between

728

that connection between the oil cooler itself and the hoses

729

that we block there but in some cases it is actually the little pipes

730

that take off to that flange they can start leaking

731

if that's the case need to replace the whole oil cooler

732

if not and then it's just the o-rings

733

but normally i'd start with the o-rings

734

and go from there check out the brakes make sure the calipers aren't leaking make sure they're operating properly

735

and check out how much wear the discs

736

and pads have got on them now brake wear isn't a huge deal it's not a huge concern

737

but if the brake discs in particular are heavily worn on the vehicle

738

that you're looking at you know they're a solution simple you just replace them

739

but look at the size of these things they ain't cheap

740

it can be super expensive to do a full set of discs

741

and pads on these cars so if the brakes on the m5

742

that you're looking at are heavily worn just factor in the cost of replacement

743

and while you're checking out the brakes make sure there's no abs

744

or dsc faults up on the dashboard

745

if there is it could be something as simple as a

746

failed wheel speed sensor worst case scenario it could be the

747

dsc unit that's failed not too much of a big deal on the later models

748

because you can get the units rebuilt but the earlier models not

749

so much there's not many services out there

750

that will look at the very early models the 2005 models

751

they were unique to this year they did change the module

752

for the rest of the model run on the 60 m5 and the 2005

753

units are extremely rare you do well to find a used good second hand one

754

and the new ones are all on back order with BMW they're not even manufacturing them at this stage so

755

if there's any DSC faults on the dashboard could be something

756

simple it could be something more involved even a steering angle sensor

757

so just keep

758

that in mind the rear axle the differential in these cars it's a very robust unit

759

but the limited slip setup is an old school setup uses clutch plates I really like

760

that but them clutch plates can wear over time

761

if you're looking at a car that's got like 200,000 miles

762

on the clock then them clutch plates are going to be pretty worn out

763

but even on a low mileage car in its normal operation you will find

764

that when the differential is cold at slow speeds

765

when you're making tight turns you will get a bit of

766

a scraping noise from the rear end it's completely normal

767

if the differential fluid hasn't been changed in a

768

while probably going to be more pronounced

769

but fresh fluid with a limited slip additive usually resolves it up to a certain extent

770

but a bit of scraping noise is normal it's just them limited slip clutch plates doing their job

771

so i won't be too worried about that but

772

if the diff's clonking on tight turns or it's whining

773

when you go down the road then them sounds will be letting you know it's time for a rebuild

774

and as with any car you're looking at to buy just make sure the body's nice

775

and straight there's no obvious accident damage main thing i like to check with the bonnet

776

and the boot open make sure the chassis rails are nice

777

and straight and the exterior body on the m5s it's pretty much all steel apart from the bonnet

778

and the two front wings they're aluminium so just make sure they're nice

779

and straight in particular because they can be very expensive to either repair

780

or replace all right guys

781

so there we have it that's pretty much everything you're going to need to look out for

782

if you're looking at getting into one of these cars and

783

if you follow the simple steps in this video you should

784

be able to avoid the majority of headaches with these vehicles

785

and it can be an absolute awesome ownership experience now

786

if you found a video interesting

787

or useful don't forget to give it a like make sure you go

788

and check out the rest of my youtube channel for more bmw e60 m5 content consider subscribing

789

if that's your cup of tea i'm mtech guy thanks a lot for watching

Cos'è la tecnica dello Shadowing?

Shadowing è una tecnica di apprendimento delle lingue supportata da studi scientifici, originariamente sviluppata per la formazione dei traduttori professionisti e resa popolare dal poliglotta Dr. Alexander Arguelles. Il metodo è semplice ma potente: ascolti un audio in inglese di madrelingua e lo ripeti immediatamente ad alta voce — come un'ombra che segue il parlante con un ritardo di solo 1–2 secondi. A differenza dell'ascolto passivo o degli esercizi di grammatica, lo shadowing costringe il tuo cervello e i muscoli della bocca a elaborare e riprodurre simultaneamente i modelli di discorso reale. La ricerca dimostra che migliora significativamente la precisione della pronuncia, l'intonazione, il ritmo, il discorso connesso, la comprensione dell'ascolto e la fluidità del parlato — rendendolo uno dei metodi più efficaci per la preparazione alla prova di speaking dell'IELTS e per la comunicazione reale in inglese.

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Cos'è la tecnica dello Shadowing?