シャドーイング練習: 10 Wilderness Survival Tips | Bushcraft Skills - YouTubeで英語スピーキングを学ぶ
B2
That's not a knife.
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That's not a knife.
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That's a knife.
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The Swiss Army Knife.
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Arguably one of the most popular multi-tools in the world.
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Not surprising given that this multi-knife design has been going strong for well over 100 years.
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Back then the soldier knife was the main model that was issued to Swiss soldiers.
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But now there is a huge variety of models that can suit your needs.
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I use the Evo Wood 17 as my everyday carry.
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This little dude has been on some epic adventures with me over the years.
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The particular model has walnut scales and 13 features which are large blade, wood saw, nail cleaner, small screwdriver,
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bottle opener, scissors, wire stripper, screwdriver, can opener, nail file, corkscrew, reamer punch and keyring.
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That's right, keyring is a feature.
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I'll put a link to it in the video description.
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It's a small design, the blade only being about 55mm long, but I'm about to show you just how versatile this little beast can be.
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Here are 10 awesome Swiss Army knife survival skills.
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You're probably thinking that with such a small knife and saw, this tool isn't going to be able to do much out in the wilderness.
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They always say that the best survival knife is the one you have on you.
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So let's imagine that this is the only tool you have with you.
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In order to get the best out of this small multi-tool, I'm going to need a helping hand from good old mother nature.
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Using the saw, I cut a birch stick about 1.5 to 2 inches thick maximum.
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I try to find the straightest sections of wood with no knots, as this will make cutting difficult.
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I cut the sticks to roughly 10 to 15 centimetres in length, and using the knife I take the top layer of bark off,
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and then I begin to make some deeper slice cuts to thin down the material.
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Obviously the grind on this knife is only small, so it takes some time.
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Once the wedge end of the stick is slimmed down enough, I flip it around and put a bevel on the other end.
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This is the end that will take a beating, so by putting a bevel on it, it will stop it mushrooming out.
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Ah, what a cute little wedge.
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But don't let that fool you.
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I'll I'll show you what you can do with this in a minute.
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In the meantime, let's saw a log.
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When you first look at the saw on a Swiss Army knife, you'll notice that it isn't very long.
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You might think that you're restricted to only be able to cut wood
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that is not wider in diameter than the length of the blade.
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But this is not the case.
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Here's a silver birch tree that had fallen down in a storm some weeks ago.
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You can clearly see
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that it's much larger in diameter than the length of the saw blade on the Swiss Army knife I'm using.
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But with the right technique, you can saw through a log this thick no problem.
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I begin by sawing into the log to the depth of the saw blade.
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Then I begin to angle the saw at a 45 degree angle and continue to saw to the depth of the blade.
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I do the same to the opposite side.
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Now rather than bore your socks off, if I'm not doing that already, I'm going to speed up this clip.
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But as I do this, you will notice that I continue to change the saw angle.
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Essentially, I'm cutting the wood into a V shape and then sawing down horizontally to cut away the top of that V.
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Rather than continue to burn calories sawing, once I'm happy with the depth I'm at, I can get the wood wedges out and hammer down on these to break the log open quicker.
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In fact, when the log finally splits, you can actually see the V shape I made against this log.
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Right, so now we have a gnarly looking log, let's craft it into something.
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Using the saw, I score around the log half way up the length.
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Again, I cut down to just over the depth of the blade of the saw.
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Now I'm going to do something that will have every Swiss Army knife owner cringing.
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I'm going to batten down on this log.
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It's worth noting you should never batten down wood with a Swiss Army knife, or any folding knife for that matter.
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Because there are a lot of components that hold these knives together, you run the risk of loosening the joints and fixings.
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It's not a 5mm bushcraft blade.
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However, battening can still be achieved if you go about it in the right way.
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Firstly, I only open my knife blade at a 90 degree angle to the wood.
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This means that as I hit down on it, it's not going to put so much stress on the components that hold it together.
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So I gently batten down on the wood to the depth of the blade.
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Then I continue to make these cuts all the way along the diameter of the wood.
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This is marking the material that I want to cut away.
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Now get the wood wedges out and place them in the cuts I just made.
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Batten down and split the material away.
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Once I have the majority of the material cut, I just go back to using the knife to take away the rest of it.
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This is now forming the handle of a wooden mallet.
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You can see that I cut slightly too deep where the handle joins the head of the mallet, but it wasn't too deep to make it break.
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Once the basic handle shape is formed, I just tidy it up a bit with the knife to create a more ergonomic handle.
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Now you can keep the bark on the head of the mallet, but personally I take it off as I find that once you've hammered down with it a few times,
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it seems to flake away and bits of wood fly off everywhere.
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And there you have it, a wooden mallet.
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Now we can really start building things.
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All of a sudden, that small Swiss Army knife at the beginning of the video isn't looking so small.
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With a wood mallet you can do some bigger projects like building a fire reflector or windbreak.
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Or if you've followed my channel over the years, you can even build an entire semi-permanent base camp.
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Whilst we're on the topic of big logs, you can easily use these techniques I used to split a large log.
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Make a small cut with the knife going to the middle of the log, and do exactly the same to the other side.
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If you want, you can use the saw to make your cut wider, then get the trusty wood wedge out and split away.
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Make sure to resharpen the wood wedges regularly so they can easily get into the cuts.
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Once you've split the round, it's much easier to split the other sections of wood.
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You can then use the edges of these smaller sections to make feather sticks
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and expose the dry interior part of the wood that is so good for lighting fires with.
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Speaking of fire, can you get a fire going with a Swiss Army knife?
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Well, providing one of the tools on it has a sharp 90 degree edge on it, then you should be good to go.
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The only problem is, not many of the tools on the Swiss Army knife have this sharp angle
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that you need to be able to strike sparks off a ferro rod or fire steel.
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Now, in an emergency, you could use the actual sharp blade of your knife, but this is not a good idea, you will soon blunt the blade.
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The reamer also has a sharp angle on it, and it can throw out sparks, but again, you don't really want to be blunting this tool.
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The can opener also has a sharp edge, and this can throw out a surprising amount of sparks, certainly enough to get fire going.
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But one of the best methods is the saw, or more importantly, the back of the saw.
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It tends to have a sharper angle on the edge, and it can throw out sparks nice and easily.
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We then don't run the risk of damaging the blade itself.
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Now that we're warmed up, let's craft some more items that can be used for camp.
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Time for the saw.
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The woodland I am in is very dense, and so many of the trees grow straight as they fight for the sunlight above.
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So I'm sawing off a straight piece of wood that has a number of forked branches growing out from the side.
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These can be used for camp craft projects.
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I saw off all of the protruding branches except one, which I saw off at about 4 inches away from where it joins the main branch.
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As there is an abundance of straight wood around, I'm going to make a number of these.
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This is what they should look like once you've sawn them to size.
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I then chamfer off the end of the stick, similar to how I was making the ends of the wood wedges.
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If you want to take off more material with a slice cut, you can just bring the wood into your chest and use a chest lever grip to add more power to your cut.
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Now time for the reamer tool.
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It's a funny looking tool, but it's one of the most used tools on this knife.
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If you look closely, you will find that there is a sharp blade on one side of the reamer.
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It is also slightly curved.
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This is designed for cutting holes.
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Now I make a hole in the flat section of wood that I just made.
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There are a few different ways of using the reamer to cut a hole through wood.
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You can either continuously rotate it like this, which is fairly safe, but it can be time consuming.
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The alternative method is to half rotate it anti-clockwise and then rotate it back clockwise.
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This method will cut a hole much quicker, as we are using that cutting blade much faster just doing the half crank.
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Now that I've drilled three holes in the top pieces of wood, I thread some cordage through each hole.
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Then find a tree and tie these sticks to the tree with a secure knot.
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I tend to tie them just below head height.
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And now you have yourself multiple gear hangers.
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You can use these to hang your backpack to keep it up off the ground.
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Or you can hang a coat, or a lantern, or whatever you want to hang.
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Either way, get more organised around your camp with some gear hangers.
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The great thing about these is that you can take them down easily
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and bring them with you if you're on a multi-day camping trip.
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Now here's a tip that an old teacher taught me years ago.
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The corkscrew, you could argue, is one of the most unused items on the Swiss Army knife.
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After all, what more can you do with it other than open up a bottle of wine?
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Not saying that's a bad thing.
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In fact, I use it for just that.
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But this next tip will blow your mind.
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Firstly, I'm going to need the saw… again… to cut me a straight piece of hazel.
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Hazel is fast growing, and when it's cut it can grow multiple shoots out of the same cut.
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It's an awesome natural resource, and is regularly coppiced here in Britain.
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I'm cutting a section that is about 2 inches in diameter, and as long as I can get it.
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As I already have a camp, I'm going to take it back there for this bit.
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Oh look, it's snowy.
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Using the knife, I chamfer the thin end of the long stick.
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I'm not cutting it too deep, just enough to create a flat section.
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Then screw in the corkscrew into this flat section, winding it up as tight as it will go.
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Because of the way this Swiss Army knife is designed, the saw is on the opposite side and you're able to unfold it.
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In order to make it more rigid, I'm just going to wrap some cordage around the knife to stop it from rotating away from the stick.
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Now you have a saw on a stick.
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But what's the point in this?
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Well let's take this example.
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You might have cast a fishing lure up in a tree and it's got caught.
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Let's face it, we've all been there.
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With this technique, you can cut high up branches that would normally be out of reach.
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Just remember to only do short sawing strokes, as the saw is only very short.
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It takes some time and patience, but it does work.
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You probably don't want to go any thinner on the stick diameter, otherwise there will be too much flex and the saw blade won't bite properly.
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So the corkscrew isn't so bad after all.
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If you take a stroll through a coniferous woodland, you might notice that some of the trees have a white, waxy substance that is flowing out of the bark.
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This is one of the best natural resources you can find.
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Be happy you found it.
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In my case here, I just hit the jackpot.
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This pine tree is flowing with the stuff.
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It's called resin, not to be confused with sap, which is totally different to resin.
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All trees produce sap, but only certain conifer trees produce resin.
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Sap is a more watery substance that trees use to move minimal nutrients from its trunk
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and up and down to its leaves and roots to aid with photosynthesis.
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Resin, however, is different.
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Rather than harbouring nutrients that later get transported through the tree, resin consists of compounds secreted or deposited by the tree.
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Scientists are still debating to this day as to whether resin is a waste product of the tree,
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but it is thought that it's a form of protection against infection on damaged limbs or to prevent insect attack,
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although sometimes there is a symbiotic relationship between tree resin and insects.
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Anyway, I digress.
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Here is a tree full of resin and I'm going to collect it.
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Now rather than destroy my knife blade, as the resin is very sticky and difficult to clean off, I'm going to use a stick to pull out the chunks of resin and collect it in a tin can.
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Once I have enough resin, I cut off a small piece of birch bark.
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I score the bark first with the knife blade, then begin to gently slice underneath the bark to peel it back without breaking.
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I then cut off a small piece of the branch of the birch tree.
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This is going to form the base that the resin will sit on top of.
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The bigger you make this, the more resin you will need.
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I'm keeping it small.
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You don't have to peel the bark off, but I'm going to anyway to make the outer bark sit more firmly against the edge.
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Now I'm going to need something to keep it all together.
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For this I'm going to use Scott's pine tree roots, as they are easy to harvest and process, and they work well as cordage straight away.
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I use the back of the knife blade to take off the outer layer of the roots.
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It just helps to make them more pliable and easier to bend.
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Clear off any chunks of inner bark so that it will sit flush.
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And I'm also cutting off a thin strip of bark to act as a wick.
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Then I carefully wrap the birch bark around the base stick and tie it together with the tree roots.
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Now the candle holder is made.
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I empty out the contents of the resin and mould together the softer parts.
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Some of the resin is very hard, but some can be really soft.
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Stuff this into the candle and compress it down.
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Place the wick in and mould the resin around the wick to keep it straight.
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I then use the scissors on the Swiss Army knife to trim the wick down.
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Important safety note folks, these candles are very flammable.
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And once you have lit them, be sure they are on a stable surface and not on the forest floor.
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You won't really be able to touch them once you've lit them, as the hot liquid resin can bubble out and it will burn you.
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Once they're lit, they're awesome.
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They burn a bright flame, but the resin tends to burn with a pungent black smoke, so keep an eye on where the wind is blowing.
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This particular candle burnt for nearly an hour before it burnt out.
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I've made bigger ones which have burnt for well over an hour.
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If you want, you can secure them to longer sticks in the ground
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and they can act as a lantern and a bug repellent for your camp.
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Whilst on the topic of fire, here's a quick little tip that you can do.
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Use the saw to cut off thin peaches of a branch.
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I cut them about 3 inches in length.
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Then make a point on the ends of the stick with your knife.
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Place these in a tin can and put the can on the fire.
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The key here is to starve the sticks of oxygen.
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So you could either fill the tin can with sand, bury it, or in the case here I put another tin can on top to act as a lid.
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Leave this to burn for about half an hour to 40 minutes.
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While you are waiting for them to char, why not spend some time carving that piece of firewood that you split earlier?
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Then take it off the fire and let it cool down.
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Once they have cooled down, you will notice that the outer bark can be peeled straight off, and underneath is a perfectly charred stick with a point.
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Now you have yourself a charcoal pencil.
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Use this to mark out a carving on a piece of wood.
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In this case, I'm going to use it to carve a spoon on this piece of firewood that I split.
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Which leads me onto the next project.
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Use the knife to carve out a rough spoon shape.
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Remember, the bevel on this knife is only small, so this can be a time-consuming process.
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Once you have carved out a rough shape, use the point of your knife to dig a small hole in the centre of the spoon,
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then rotate it round to carve away some of the material.
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Normally you would do this with a specialist spoon carving knife like a crook knife, but as you've just had a fire going and you don't have this specialist tool,
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you can grab yourself a piece of hot charcoal and use this to burn a hollow inside the spoon.
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I use another stick on top to keep the pressure on the charcoal burning downwards.
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You need to regularly add oxygen in order to keep it burning through the wood.
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The trick is to use long and slow breaths to keep that charcoal hot.
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It's more effective on a windy day.
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After a couple of minutes, you will notice the charcoal burning out the hollow shape of the spoon.
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All you then need to do is work on shaping the rest of the spoon, gently taking away a little bit of material each time.
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And there you have it folks, 10 simple survival tips that you can do with a Swiss Army knife.
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Well little knife, we've come a long way since the beginning of this video.
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I hope the folks out there on YouTube enjoyed watching you work your magic.
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Hopefully they will subscribe and you can show them more of your skills.
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And if the folks out there are looking into some more Swiss Army Knife inspiration, I highly recommend they check out the master of the Swiss Army Knife, Felix Imler.
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Not only does he have some incredibly in-depth videos on the Swiss Army Knife, but he's added some insane modifications to his.
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Oh, and he's also written an incredible book full of awesome Swiss Army Knife skills.
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I've left a link to it in the video description below for you to check out.
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In the meantime, from me I'm a Swiss Army Knife, see you in the next episode.
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コンテキストと背景
この動画では、サバイバルスキルとしてのスイスアーミーナイフの使い方について紹介されています。話者は、コンパクトで多機能なこのツールを用いて、野外でどのように役立てるかを実演し、その魅力や能力を説明しています。特に、ナイフの特性や作業のテクニックを駆使して、限られた道具でどれほど多くのことができるかを示しています。
日常会話に役立つフレーズ5選
- 「That's not a knife. That's a knife.」 - 物事の本質を強調する表現。
- 「The best survival knife is the one you have on you.」 - 実際に持っているもので十分だというメッセージ。
- 「Using the saw, I cut a birch stick...」 - 実践的な行動説明。
- 「I try to find the straightest sections of wood with no knots.」 - 最適な材料選びのポイント。
- 「Let's craft it into something.」 - 創造することの楽しさを伝えるフレーズ。
ステップバイステップ シャドウイングガイド
この動画を使って英語を学ぶ際は、シャドウスピークのテクニックを活用するのが効果的です。特に、野外活動に関する用語やフレーズを実際に声に出して繰り返すことが、発音の向上を助けます。
まずは動画を観ながら、話者の言葉をよく聴きます。その後、以下のステップでシャドウイングを行いましょう：
- 動画を一時停止し、フレーズを繰り返してみます。この時、発音やイントネーションに注意を向けましょう。
- シャドウイングを始める前に、キーワードをリストアップして、その意味を確認します。例えば、「a saw」や「craft」などを使った実際の文脈で考えます。
- スローモーションで再生し、言葉を発声しながら実践します。このやり方は、英語の発音を良くするために非常に効果的です。
このようにして、YouTubeで英語学習を進める際には自分の声で繰り返し練習することが、学びを深めるポイントです。ぜひ、shadowspeaksを参考にしながら、自分のペースで取り組んでみてください。
シャドーイングとは？英語上達に効果的な理由
シャドーイング（Shadowing）は、もともとプロの通訳者養成プログラムで開発された言語学習法で、多言語習得者として知られるDr. Alexander Arguelles によって広く普及されました。方法はシンプルですが非常に効果的：ネイティブスピーカーの英語を聞きながら、1〜2秒の遅延で声に出してすぐに繰り返す——まるで「影（shadow）」のように話者を追いかけます。文法ドリルや受動的なリスニングと異なり、シャドーイングは脳と口の筋肉が同時にリアルタイムで英語を処理・再現することを強制します。研究により、発音精度、抑揚、リズム、連音、リスニング力、そして会話の流暢さが大幅に向上することが確認されています。IELTSスピーキング対策や自然な英語コミュニケーションを目指す方に特におすすめです。