Luyện nói tiếng Anh bằng Shadowing qua video: 10 Wilderness Survival Tips | Bushcraft Skills

That's not a knife.

⏸ Tạm dừng

Tốc độ:

228 câu

Nếu các câu quá ngắn hoặc quá dài, hãy bấm Edit để chỉnh sửa.

That's not a knife.

That's a knife.

The Swiss Army Knife.

Arguably one of the most popular multi-tools in the world.

Not surprising given that this multi-knife design has been going strong for well over 100 years.

Back then the soldier knife was the main model that was issued to Swiss soldiers.

But now there is a huge variety of models that can suit your needs.

I use the Evo Wood 17 as my everyday carry.

This little dude has been on some epic adventures with me over the years.

The particular model has walnut scales and 13 features which are large blade, wood saw, nail cleaner, small screwdriver,

bottle opener, scissors, wire stripper, screwdriver, can opener, nail file, corkscrew, reamer punch and keyring.

That's right, keyring is a feature.

I'll put a link to it in the video description.

It's a small design, the blade only being about 55mm long, but I'm about to show you just how versatile this little beast can be.

Here are 10 awesome Swiss Army knife survival skills.

You're probably thinking that with such a small knife and saw, this tool isn't going to be able to do much out in the wilderness.

They always say that the best survival knife is the one you have on you.

So let's imagine that this is the only tool you have with you.

In order to get the best out of this small multi-tool, I'm going to need a helping hand from good old mother nature.

Using the saw, I cut a birch stick about 1.5 to 2 inches thick maximum.

I try to find the straightest sections of wood with no knots, as this will make cutting difficult.

I cut the sticks to roughly 10 to 15 centimetres in length, and using the knife I take the top layer of bark off,

and then I begin to make some deeper slice cuts to thin down the material.

Obviously the grind on this knife is only small, so it takes some time.

Once the wedge end of the stick is slimmed down enough, I flip it around and put a bevel on the other end.

This is the end that will take a beating, so by putting a bevel on it, it will stop it mushrooming out.

Ah, what a cute little wedge.

But don't let that fool you.

I'll I'll show you what you can do with this in a minute.

In the meantime, let's saw a log.

When you first look at the saw on a Swiss Army knife, you'll notice that it isn't very long.

You might think that you're restricted to only be able to cut wood

that is not wider in diameter than the length of the blade.

But this is not the case.

Here's a silver birch tree that had fallen down in a storm some weeks ago.

You can clearly see

that it's much larger in diameter than the length of the saw blade on the Swiss Army knife I'm using.

But with the right technique, you can saw through a log this thick no problem.

I begin by sawing into the log to the depth of the saw blade.

Then I begin to angle the saw at a 45 degree angle and continue to saw to the depth of the blade.

I do the same to the opposite side.

Now rather than bore your socks off, if I'm not doing that already, I'm going to speed up this clip.

But as I do this, you will notice that I continue to change the saw angle.

Essentially, I'm cutting the wood into a V shape and then sawing down horizontally to cut away the top of that V.

Rather than continue to burn calories sawing, once I'm happy with the depth I'm at, I can get the wood wedges out and hammer down on these to break the log open quicker.

In fact, when the log finally splits, you can actually see the V shape I made against this log.

Right, so now we have a gnarly looking log, let's craft it into something.

Using the saw, I score around the log half way up the length.

Again, I cut down to just over the depth of the blade of the saw.

Now I'm going to do something that will have every Swiss Army knife owner cringing.

I'm going to batten down on this log.

It's worth noting you should never batten down wood with a Swiss Army knife, or any folding knife for that matter.

Because there are a lot of components that hold these knives together, you run the risk of loosening the joints and fixings.

It's not a 5mm bushcraft blade.

However, battening can still be achieved if you go about it in the right way.

Firstly, I only open my knife blade at a 90 degree angle to the wood.

This means that as I hit down on it, it's not going to put so much stress on the components that hold it together.

So I gently batten down on the wood to the depth of the blade.

Then I continue to make these cuts all the way along the diameter of the wood.

This is marking the material that I want to cut away.

Now get the wood wedges out and place them in the cuts I just made.

Batten down and split the material away.

Once I have the majority of the material cut, I just go back to using the knife to take away the rest of it.

This is now forming the handle of a wooden mallet.

You can see that I cut slightly too deep where the handle joins the head of the mallet, but it wasn't too deep to make it break.

Once the basic handle shape is formed, I just tidy it up a bit with the knife to create a more ergonomic handle.

Now you can keep the bark on the head of the mallet, but personally I take it off as I find that once you've hammered down with it a few times,

it seems to flake away and bits of wood fly off everywhere.

And there you have it, a wooden mallet.

Now we can really start building things.

All of a sudden, that small Swiss Army knife at the beginning of the video isn't looking so small.

With a wood mallet you can do some bigger projects like building a fire reflector or windbreak.

Or if you've followed my channel over the years, you can even build an entire semi-permanent base camp.

Whilst we're on the topic of big logs, you can easily use these techniques I used to split a large log.

Make a small cut with the knife going to the middle of the log, and do exactly the same to the other side.

If you want, you can use the saw to make your cut wider, then get the trusty wood wedge out and split away.

Make sure to resharpen the wood wedges regularly so they can easily get into the cuts.

Once you've split the round, it's much easier to split the other sections of wood.

You can then use the edges of these smaller sections to make feather sticks

and expose the dry interior part of the wood that is so good for lighting fires with.

Speaking of fire, can you get a fire going with a Swiss Army knife?

Well, providing one of the tools on it has a sharp 90 degree edge on it, then you should be good to go.

The only problem is, not many of the tools on the Swiss Army knife have this sharp angle

that you need to be able to strike sparks off a ferro rod or fire steel.

Now, in an emergency, you could use the actual sharp blade of your knife, but this is not a good idea, you will soon blunt the blade.

The reamer also has a sharp angle on it, and it can throw out sparks, but again, you don't really want to be blunting this tool.

The can opener also has a sharp edge, and this can throw out a surprising amount of sparks, certainly enough to get fire going.

But one of the best methods is the saw, or more importantly, the back of the saw.

It tends to have a sharper angle on the edge, and it can throw out sparks nice and easily.

We then don't run the risk of damaging the blade itself.

Now that we're warmed up, let's craft some more items that can be used for camp.

Time for the saw.

The woodland I am in is very dense, and so many of the trees grow straight as they fight for the sunlight above.

So I'm sawing off a straight piece of wood that has a number of forked branches growing out from the side.

These can be used for camp craft projects.

I saw off all of the protruding branches except one, which I saw off at about 4 inches away from where it joins the main branch.

As there is an abundance of straight wood around, I'm going to make a number of these.

This is what they should look like once you've sawn them to size.

I then chamfer off the end of the stick, similar to how I was making the ends of the wood wedges.

100

If you want to take off more material with a slice cut, you can just bring the wood into your chest and use a chest lever grip to add more power to your cut.

101

Now time for the reamer tool.

102

It's a funny looking tool, but it's one of the most used tools on this knife.

103

If you look closely, you will find that there is a sharp blade on one side of the reamer.

104

It is also slightly curved.

105

This is designed for cutting holes.

106

Now I make a hole in the flat section of wood that I just made.

107

There are a few different ways of using the reamer to cut a hole through wood.

108

You can either continuously rotate it like this, which is fairly safe, but it can be time consuming.

109

The alternative method is to half rotate it anti-clockwise and then rotate it back clockwise.

110

This method will cut a hole much quicker, as we are using that cutting blade much faster just doing the half crank.

111

Now that I've drilled three holes in the top pieces of wood, I thread some cordage through each hole.

112

Then find a tree and tie these sticks to the tree with a secure knot.

113

I tend to tie them just below head height.

114

And now you have yourself multiple gear hangers.

115

You can use these to hang your backpack to keep it up off the ground.

116

Or you can hang a coat, or a lantern, or whatever you want to hang.

117

Either way, get more organised around your camp with some gear hangers.

118

The great thing about these is that you can take them down easily

119

and bring them with you if you're on a multi-day camping trip.

120

Now here's a tip that an old teacher taught me years ago.

121

The corkscrew, you could argue, is one of the most unused items on the Swiss Army knife.

122

After all, what more can you do with it other than open up a bottle of wine?

123

Not saying that's a bad thing.

124

In fact, I use it for just that.

125

But this next tip will blow your mind.

126

Firstly, I'm going to need the saw… again… to cut me a straight piece of hazel.

127

Hazel is fast growing, and when it's cut it can grow multiple shoots out of the same cut.

128

It's an awesome natural resource, and is regularly coppiced here in Britain.

129

I'm cutting a section that is about 2 inches in diameter, and as long as I can get it.

130

As I already have a camp, I'm going to take it back there for this bit.

131

Oh look, it's snowy.

132

Using the knife, I chamfer the thin end of the long stick.

133

I'm not cutting it too deep, just enough to create a flat section.

134

Then screw in the corkscrew into this flat section, winding it up as tight as it will go.

135

Because of the way this Swiss Army knife is designed, the saw is on the opposite side and you're able to unfold it.

136

In order to make it more rigid, I'm just going to wrap some cordage around the knife to stop it from rotating away from the stick.

137

Now you have a saw on a stick.

138

But what's the point in this?

139

Well let's take this example.

140

You might have cast a fishing lure up in a tree and it's got caught.

141

Let's face it, we've all been there.

142

With this technique, you can cut high up branches that would normally be out of reach.

143

Just remember to only do short sawing strokes, as the saw is only very short.

144

It takes some time and patience, but it does work.

145

You probably don't want to go any thinner on the stick diameter, otherwise there will be too much flex and the saw blade won't bite properly.

146

So the corkscrew isn't so bad after all.

147

If you take a stroll through a coniferous woodland, you might notice that some of the trees have a white, waxy substance that is flowing out of the bark.

148

This is one of the best natural resources you can find.

149

Be happy you found it.

150

In my case here, I just hit the jackpot.

151

This pine tree is flowing with the stuff.

152

It's called resin, not to be confused with sap, which is totally different to resin.

153

All trees produce sap, but only certain conifer trees produce resin.

154

Sap is a more watery substance that trees use to move minimal nutrients from its trunk

155

and up and down to its leaves and roots to aid with photosynthesis.

156

Resin, however, is different.

157

Rather than harbouring nutrients that later get transported through the tree, resin consists of compounds secreted or deposited by the tree.

158

Scientists are still debating to this day as to whether resin is a waste product of the tree,

159

but it is thought that it's a form of protection against infection on damaged limbs or to prevent insect attack,

160

although sometimes there is a symbiotic relationship between tree resin and insects.

161

Anyway, I digress.

162

Here is a tree full of resin and I'm going to collect it.

163

Now rather than destroy my knife blade, as the resin is very sticky and difficult to clean off, I'm going to use a stick to pull out the chunks of resin and collect it in a tin can.

164

Once I have enough resin, I cut off a small piece of birch bark.

165

I score the bark first with the knife blade, then begin to gently slice underneath the bark to peel it back without breaking.

166

I then cut off a small piece of the branch of the birch tree.

167

This is going to form the base that the resin will sit on top of.

168

The bigger you make this, the more resin you will need.

169

I'm keeping it small.

170

You don't have to peel the bark off, but I'm going to anyway to make the outer bark sit more firmly against the edge.

171

Now I'm going to need something to keep it all together.

172

For this I'm going to use Scott's pine tree roots, as they are easy to harvest and process, and they work well as cordage straight away.

173

I use the back of the knife blade to take off the outer layer of the roots.

174

It just helps to make them more pliable and easier to bend.

175

Clear off any chunks of inner bark so that it will sit flush.

176

And I'm also cutting off a thin strip of bark to act as a wick.

177

Then I carefully wrap the birch bark around the base stick and tie it together with the tree roots.

178

Now the candle holder is made.

179

I empty out the contents of the resin and mould together the softer parts.

180

Some of the resin is very hard, but some can be really soft.

181

Stuff this into the candle and compress it down.

182

Place the wick in and mould the resin around the wick to keep it straight.

183

I then use the scissors on the Swiss Army knife to trim the wick down.

184

Important safety note folks, these candles are very flammable.

185

And once you have lit them, be sure they are on a stable surface and not on the forest floor.

186

You won't really be able to touch them once you've lit them, as the hot liquid resin can bubble out and it will burn you.

187

Once they're lit, they're awesome.

188

They burn a bright flame, but the resin tends to burn with a pungent black smoke, so keep an eye on where the wind is blowing.

189

This particular candle burnt for nearly an hour before it burnt out.

190

I've made bigger ones which have burnt for well over an hour.

191

If you want, you can secure them to longer sticks in the ground

192

and they can act as a lantern and a bug repellent for your camp.

193

Whilst on the topic of fire, here's a quick little tip that you can do.

194

Use the saw to cut off thin peaches of a branch.

195

I cut them about 3 inches in length.

196

Then make a point on the ends of the stick with your knife.

197

Place these in a tin can and put the can on the fire.

198

The key here is to starve the sticks of oxygen.

199

So you could either fill the tin can with sand, bury it, or in the case here I put another tin can on top to act as a lid.

200

Leave this to burn for about half an hour to 40 minutes.

201

While you are waiting for them to char, why not spend some time carving that piece of firewood that you split earlier?

202

Then take it off the fire and let it cool down.

203

Once they have cooled down, you will notice that the outer bark can be peeled straight off, and underneath is a perfectly charred stick with a point.

204

Now you have yourself a charcoal pencil.

205

Use this to mark out a carving on a piece of wood.

206

In this case, I'm going to use it to carve a spoon on this piece of firewood that I split.

207

Which leads me onto the next project.

208

Use the knife to carve out a rough spoon shape.

209

Remember, the bevel on this knife is only small, so this can be a time-consuming process.

210

Once you have carved out a rough shape, use the point of your knife to dig a small hole in the centre of the spoon,

211

then rotate it round to carve away some of the material.

212

Normally you would do this with a specialist spoon carving knife like a crook knife, but as you've just had a fire going and you don't have this specialist tool,

213

you can grab yourself a piece of hot charcoal and use this to burn a hollow inside the spoon.

214

I use another stick on top to keep the pressure on the charcoal burning downwards.

215

You need to regularly add oxygen in order to keep it burning through the wood.

216

The trick is to use long and slow breaths to keep that charcoal hot.

217

It's more effective on a windy day.

218

After a couple of minutes, you will notice the charcoal burning out the hollow shape of the spoon.

219

All you then need to do is work on shaping the rest of the spoon, gently taking away a little bit of material each time.

220

And there you have it folks, 10 simple survival tips that you can do with a Swiss Army knife.

221

Well little knife, we've come a long way since the beginning of this video.

222

I hope the folks out there on YouTube enjoyed watching you work your magic.

223

Hopefully they will subscribe and you can show them more of your skills.

224

And if the folks out there are looking into some more Swiss Army Knife inspiration, I highly recommend they check out the master of the Swiss Army Knife, Felix Imler.

225

Not only does he have some incredibly in-depth videos on the Swiss Army Knife, but he's added some insane modifications to his.

226

Oh, and he's also written an incredible book full of awesome Swiss Army Knife skills.

227

I've left a link to it in the video description below for you to check out.

228

In the meantime, from me I'm a Swiss Army Knife, see you in the next episode.

TRENDING

Phổ biến

Phương Pháp Shadowing Là Gì?

Shadowing là kỹ thuật học ngôn ngữ có cơ sở khoa học, ban đầu được phát triển cho chương trình đào tạo phiên dịch viên chuyên nghiệp và được phổ biến rộng rãi bởi nhà đa ngôn ngữ học Dr. Alexander Arguelles. Nguyên lý cốt lõi đơn giản nhưng cực kỳ hiệu quả: bạn nghe tiếng Anh của người bản xứ và lặp lại to ngay lập tức — như một "cái bóng" (shadow) đuổi theo người nói với độ trễ chỉ 1–2 giây. Khác với luyện ngữ pháp hay học từ vựng bị động, Shadowing buộc não bộ và cơ miệng phải đồng thời xử lý và tái tạo ngôn ngữ thực tế. Các nghiên cứu khoa học xác nhận phương pháp này cải thiện đáng kể phát âm, ngữ điệu, nhịp điệu, nối âm, kỹ năng nghe và độ lưu loát khi nói — đặc biệt hiệu quả cho người luyện IELTS Speaking và muốn giao tiếp tiếng Anh tự nhiên như người bản ngữ.

ShadowingEnglish.com – Luyện Nói Tiếng Anh Bằng Shadowing

Nói tiếng Anh lưu loát với phương pháp Shadowing — nghe người bản xứ, đọc theo từng câu, rèn phản xạ ngôn ngữ thật sự. Được hàng ngàn người học IELTS tin dùng.

Luyện nói tiếng Anh bằng Shadowing qua video: 10 Wilderness Survival Tips | Bushcraft Skills

Phổ biến

Ngữ Cảnh & Bối Cảnh

5 Câu Nói Hàng Ngày Hữu Ích

Hướng Dẫn Shadowing Từng Bước

Phương Pháp Shadowing Là Gì?

Luyện nói tiếng Anh bằng Shadowing qua video: 10 Wilderness Survival Tips | Bushcraft Skills

Tải Ứng Dụng

Ngữ Cảnh & Bối Cảnh

5 Câu Nói Hàng Ngày Hữu Ích

Hướng Dẫn Shadowing Từng Bước

Phương Pháp Shadowing Là Gì?