シャドーイング練習: Trying hard is a skill. Here's how to train it. - YouTubeで英語スピーキングを学ぶ
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HARD!
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HARD!
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HARD!
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HARD!
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Most climbers think they're trying hard, but trying hard is actually a skill and most people aren't training it.
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I'm here in Oliana at the moment and I have a project just up there up there.
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It's requiring a lot of try hard from me.
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I think the challenge level feels a little too high still
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so although there's some moments where I'm in flow on my
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attempts there's also some moments where I've really got to dig deep and try really hard.
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Some of my best climbing experiences have been in flow where everything feels almost effortless
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and automatic and you're totally absorbed in what you're doing.
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I sent routes like Mind Control and Fisheye here at this crag and they were flow experiences.
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But there's another state that sports science calls clutch.
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In this state you're really focused and absorbed in the task so you're really present but it feels high effort,
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high strain, high perceived difficulty and that's the difference between clutch and flow.
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Oh my god.
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Oliana is the home of a lot of hard climbing and
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because of that you have a lot of good climbers climb at this crag trying really hard.
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In climbing you might have heard the phrase amwete which means to the death.
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The best climbers don't just know how to flow, they also fight really hard.
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and often both states can be accessed on the same climb.
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The best climbers are also the best at trying hard.
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The nuance here is that trying hard isn't just about more effort, it's about the right level of activation to be efficient.
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Trying hard isn't just about intensity, it's about useful intensity.
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Sometimes the challenge level really demands high activation, focus and determination.
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Some climbers are under aroused which means they never really switch on
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and get their energy levels up to the place they need to be for the task.
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So what exactly is trying hard?
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Trying hard isn't just about how much you can power scream or grunt, although power screaming is a fun part of trying hard.
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It's not a performance, it's a state of mind and body activation.
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I like to think of it as a form of expression.
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Sometimes you're trying your absolute hardest and it doesn't look dramatic from the outside
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and it's kind of irritating when someone tells you to just try harder when you know you already are.
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For me try hard are those moments when you fall
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or you manage to send with everything committed
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so all of your inner resources are focused in an effortful way to stay on the wall
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or those moments when you surprise yourself with how improbable it is that you're staying on.
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You maybe hold a hold that you thought there was no chance that you could catch.
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Or you feel like you're coming off but you're still on.
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And it's not just all about physical resources, but it's also about mental capacity too.
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You're completely focused on the task at hand, your mind is only directed towards that task.
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And usually when I feel like that, I'm content even if I fall, because I know that I've given it everything.
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Alright, so if trying hard is a skill, how do we train it?
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There are three things that I see over and over again that stop climbers from developing this skill.
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The first one is stop saving it for when it matters.
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Most climbers don't practice trying hard.
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They save it for the red points and of a project that only happens a few times a year.
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But that's not many reps.
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If you only try hard when it matters, you won't be able to access it reliably.
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You need to try hard on routes you might not send, in a training context, on climbs that don't matter much for you, on moves that feel out of reach.
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If you can't try hard when it doesn't matter, why would you expect to access it when it does?
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The second thing is to fix your relationship with failure.
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The mistake people make is thinking that really wanting to send will be enough to try hard.
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But actually it can cause you to give up and that's for a few reasons.
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One is that the more you want it, the more you fear not getting it, the more anxious you get.
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And carrying fear of failure up a route is like carrying a weight vest.
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If you're thinking about the chains halfway up, you're not fully invested in the move that you're on
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and you can't try hard on that move if half your brain is anxious about sending.
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The other reason is that focusing too much on the outcome means that you don't value that one more move
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unless you're sure you can send.
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So I've found that people with this mindset say take more often, They don't train try hard and they don't surprise themselves.
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Sometimes I've climbed with that just one more move mentality and managed to unsight my hardest route,
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an 8a plus that was actually graded 8b slash plus in the guide.
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I had no sense that I could have done it.
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In order to try hard you need to value trying hard in and of itself not just for the send.
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Trying hard requires full attention in the present, not thinking about the outcome.
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Trying hard exposes you, it feels vulnerable sometimes because
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when you give everything you remove the excuse and you show your commitment for everyone to see.
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If you fall you really fell and that can feel uncomfortable.
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A lot of that comes down to motivation.
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If you're climbing mainly for external outcomes, the grade, the validation, proving something, not looking stupid, then every move carries risk.
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Because when you're scared to fail, you make failure more meaningful.
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A fail says something about you as a climber.
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But if your motivation is intrinsic, if you genuinely value the effort itself, then trying hard becomes easier and you're able to tap into a deeper level of try hard.
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With this mindset, effort becomes the reward, not just the mechanism.
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And this is exactly how it feels for me.
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It's for those moments of clutch and flow that I climb.
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When this is your big why, the reason why you go climbing, then it's so much more natural to tap into that try hard.
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The third thing is to remove fear of falling as a barrier.
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So unfortunately it's almost impossible to try hard on lead or on top rope or on bouldering if you're scared to fall.
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Fear of falling prevents you from climbing at your physical limit, either at all or in certain situations like a height above a bowl or crash pad.
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If that feels like you, then you really need to think about doing some full practice, but please get guidance with it because it's very easy to get it wrong.
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If you want to access TriHard quickly, you can take a few short, sharp breaths with a focus on the inhale.
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This essentially brings your arousal levels up.
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And it works better for bouldering or hard cruxes on a climb when maximising aerobic efficiency is less of a factor.
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You can also use a mantra, listen to kind of intense music that gets you into that higher energy state.
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Not even tired.
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But the main thing though is motivation.
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Are you motivated to try hard because you like trying hard?
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If that's the case then you don't need to worry about these tricks.
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Alright so why does all this matter?
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I'm not a particularly strong climber but I've managed to get up a lot of climbs by tapping into certain performance states, especially flow and clutch.
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If I couldn't do that then there's no way I would have been a professional climber.
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I haven't always been this good at trying hard and it's been a skill that I've developed over time.
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Every time you go near your edge, you expand your capacity to go there again.
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But the main thing I've developed is the love of trying hard
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and it's that motivation that is the best thing for accessing that state.
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Here's a little paradox.
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Trying hard is also letting go.
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So there's kind of like a deeper layer here.
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Clutch isn't about forcing.
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Sometimes you try so hard not to fall that you overthink every move, you overgrip, you don't flow efficiently between moves.
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So accessing states like flow and clutch and try hard can be like kind of surrendering into the effort.
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It's letting your body climb, trusting your intuition.
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It's hard to explain how trying hard can also be a form of letting go, but that is kind of how it feels.
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It's full commitment, focus and effort, but without forcing.
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Hey guys, if you're into this stuff, I have a whole free webinar on how to access flow
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and clutch so that you can climb at your best and have a great time doing it.
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If you're psyched, check out the link below.
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The most memorable moments in climbing aren't the easy ones, they're the battles, the all out fights where you don't know if you'll stay on but you keep trying anyway.
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Working hard isn't a trait, it's not something you have or don't have,
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it's a skill and it's a skill that's easier to develop with an underlying mindset and you can train that mindset.
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動画の背景とコンテキスト
この動画では、登山家が「努力することはスキルであり、訓練で磨ける」というテーマで語ります。登山における「フロー状態」と「クラッチ状態」の違い、努力の本質、そしてそれを訓練する方法について説明しています。日常のコミュニケーションや英語学習にも応用できる考え方が満載です。
日常会話に使える注目の5フレーズ
- "Trying hard is a skill."（努力することはスキルです）- 努力を単なる「やる気」ではなく、訓練できる能力として捉える表現。
- "dig deep"（深く掘り下げる）- 「全力を尽くす」「心底から努力する」というニュアンスで使われます。
- "in flow"（フロー状態で）- 物事がスムーズに進み、無意識的に取り組める状態を表します。
- "clutch"（クラッチ状態）- 高い緊張感の中で集中し、全力を発揮する状態を指します。
- "under aroused"（覚醒度が低い）- 「やる気が出ない」「集中できない」という状態を表すフレーズ。
動画を使ったシャドーイングのステップバイステップガイド
YouTubeで英語学習をする際、この動画はスピーキング力向上に最適です。特にIELTS スピーキング対策にも役立つ「shadow speech」の練習方法を紹介します。
ステップ1: 動画を聴きながら内容を理解する
まずは日本語の説明なしで動画を聴き、「努力することの重要性」や「訓練方法」などのポイントをつかみます。難しい単語は一時的にスキップしても大丈夫です。
ステップ2: フレーズごとにシャドーイングを行う
「dig deep」「in flow」などのフレーズを取り上げ、発音やイントネーションを真似ます。shadowspeaksのように、1文ずつ繰り返し聴き、即座に追って話す練習をします。
ステップ3: 全体をまとめて練習する
フレーズの練習が終わったら、動画全体を流しながら英語シャドーイングを行います。スピーカーのスピードやリズムに合わせて、自然な発声を目指します。
これらのステップを繰り返すことで、日常会話での表現力やスピーキングの流暢さが向上します。ぜひYouTubeで英語学習の一環として取り入れてみてください。
シャドーイングとは？英語上達に効果的な理由
シャドーイング（Shadowing）は、もともとプロの通訳者養成プログラムで開発された言語学習法で、多言語習得者として知られるDr. Alexander Arguelles によって広く普及されました。方法はシンプルですが非常に効果的：ネイティブスピーカーの英語を聞きながら、1〜2秒の遅延で声に出してすぐに繰り返す——まるで「影（shadow）」のように話者を追いかけます。文法ドリルや受動的なリスニングと異なり、シャドーイングは脳と口の筋肉が同時にリアルタイムで英語を処理・再現することを強制します。研究により、発音精度、抑揚、リズム、連音、リスニング力、そして会話の流暢さが大幅に向上することが確認されています。IELTSスピーキング対策や自然な英語コミュニケーションを目指す方に特におすすめです。