Pratique du Shadowing: Trying hard is a skill. Here's how to train it. - Apprendre l'anglais à l'oral avec la vidéo

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HARD!

DUR !

HARD!

Most climbers think they're trying hard, but trying hard is actually a skill and most people aren't training it.

La plupart des grimpeurs pensent qu'ils font des efforts, mais faire des efforts est en réalité une compétence que la plupart des gens ne travaillent pas.

I'm here in Oliana at the moment and I have a project just up there up there.

Je suis ici à Oliana en ce moment et j'ai un projet juste là-haut.

It's requiring a lot of try hard from me.

Ça me demande un effort considérable.

I think the challenge level feels a little too high still

Je pense que le niveau de difficulté semble encore un peu trop élevé.

so although there's some moments where I'm in flow on my

donc bien qu'il y ait des moments où je suis dans un état de flow sur mon

attempts there's also some moments where I've really got to dig deep and try really hard.

il y a aussi des moments où je dois vraiment puiser au fond de moi et faire des efforts considérables.

Some of my best climbing experiences have been in flow where everything feels almost effortless

Certaines de mes meilleures expériences d'escalade ont été des moments de flow où tout semble presque sans effort.

and automatic and you're totally absorbed in what you're doing.

et automatique, et vous êtes totalement absorbé par ce que vous faites.

I sent routes like Mind Control and Fisheye here at this crag and they were flow experiences.

J’ai envoyé des voies comme Mind Control et Fisheye ici, dans cette falaise, et ce furent des expériences de flow.

But there's another state that sports science calls clutch.

Mais il existe un autre état que la science du sport appelle le clutch.

In this state you're really focused and absorbed in the task so you're really present but it feels high effort,

Dans cet état, vous êtes vraiment concentré et absorbé par la tâche, donc vous êtes pleinement présent, mais cela demande un effort important.

high strain, high perceived difficulty and that's the difference between clutch and flow.

forte tension, niveau de difficulté perçu élevé, et c'est là la différence entre l'état de clutch et le flow.

Oh my god.

Oh mon Dieu.

Oliana is the home of a lot of hard climbing and

Oliana est le lieu de nombreuses escalades difficiles et

because of that you have a lot of good climbers climb at this crag trying really hard.

C'est pour ça qu'il y a beaucoup de bons grimpeurs qui viennent dans cette falaise et qui s'entraînent très dur.

In climbing you might have heard the phrase amwete which means to the death.

Dans l'escalade, vous avez peut-être entendu l'expression amwete, qui signifie « jusqu'à la mort ».

The best climbers don't just know how to flow, they also fight really hard.

Les meilleurs grimpeurs ne savent pas seulement comment être fluides, ils se battent aussi vraiment dur.

and often both states can be accessed on the same climb.

et les deux états sont souvent accessibles lors de la même ascension.

The best climbers are also the best at trying hard.

Les meilleurs grimpeurs sont aussi ceux qui font le plus d'efforts.

The nuance here is that trying hard isn't just about more effort, it's about the right level of activation to be efficient.

La nuance ici est que faire des efforts ne se résume pas à fournir plus d'énergie, mais à atteindre le bon niveau d'activation pour être efficace.

Trying hard isn't just about intensity, it's about useful intensity.

Essayer avec acharnement ne se résume pas à l'intensité, il s'agit d'une intensité utile.

Sometimes the challenge level really demands high activation, focus and determination.

Parfois, le niveau de difficulté exige vraiment une forte activation, de la concentration et de la détermination.

Some climbers are under aroused which means they never really switch on

Certains grimpeurs sont en sous-stimulation, ce qui signifie qu'ils ne sont jamais vraiment en éveil.

and get their energy levels up to the place they need to be for the task.

et porter leur niveau d'énergie au niveau requis pour la tâche.

So what exactly is trying hard?

Alors, c’est quoi, au juste, faire des efforts ?

Trying hard isn't just about how much you can power scream or grunt, although power screaming is a fun part of trying hard.

It's not a performance, it's a state of mind and body activation.

I like to think of it as a form of expression.

Sometimes you're trying your absolute hardest and it doesn't look dramatic from the outside

and it's kind of irritating when someone tells you to just try harder when you know you already are.

For me try hard are those moments when you fall

or you manage to send with everything committed

so all of your inner resources are focused in an effortful way to stay on the wall

or those moments when you surprise yourself with how improbable it is that you're staying on.

You maybe hold a hold that you thought there was no chance that you could catch.

Or you feel like you're coming off but you're still on.

And it's not just all about physical resources, but it's also about mental capacity too.

You're completely focused on the task at hand, your mind is only directed towards that task.

And usually when I feel like that, I'm content even if I fall, because I know that I've given it everything.

Alright, so if trying hard is a skill, how do we train it?

There are three things that I see over and over again that stop climbers from developing this skill.

The first one is stop saving it for when it matters.

Most climbers don't practice trying hard.

They save it for the red points and of a project that only happens a few times a year.

But that's not many reps.

If you only try hard when it matters, you won't be able to access it reliably.

You need to try hard on routes you might not send, in a training context, on climbs that don't matter much for you, on moves that feel out of reach.

If you can't try hard when it doesn't matter, why would you expect to access it when it does?

The second thing is to fix your relationship with failure.

The mistake people make is thinking that really wanting to send will be enough to try hard.

But actually it can cause you to give up and that's for a few reasons.

One is that the more you want it, the more you fear not getting it, the more anxious you get.

And carrying fear of failure up a route is like carrying a weight vest.

If you're thinking about the chains halfway up, you're not fully invested in the move that you're on

and you can't try hard on that move if half your brain is anxious about sending.

The other reason is that focusing too much on the outcome means that you don't value that one more move

unless you're sure you can send.

So I've found that people with this mindset say take more often, They don't train try hard and they don't surprise themselves.

Sometimes I've climbed with that just one more move mentality and managed to unsight my hardest route,

an 8a plus that was actually graded 8b slash plus in the guide.

I had no sense that I could have done it.

In order to try hard you need to value trying hard in and of itself not just for the send.

Trying hard requires full attention in the present, not thinking about the outcome.

Trying hard exposes you, it feels vulnerable sometimes because

when you give everything you remove the excuse and you show your commitment for everyone to see.

If you fall you really fell and that can feel uncomfortable.

A lot of that comes down to motivation.

If you're climbing mainly for external outcomes, the grade, the validation, proving something, not looking stupid, then every move carries risk.

Because when you're scared to fail, you make failure more meaningful.

A fail says something about you as a climber.

But if your motivation is intrinsic, if you genuinely value the effort itself, then trying hard becomes easier and you're able to tap into a deeper level of try hard.

With this mindset, effort becomes the reward, not just the mechanism.

And this is exactly how it feels for me.

It's for those moments of clutch and flow that I climb.

When this is your big why, the reason why you go climbing, then it's so much more natural to tap into that try hard.

The third thing is to remove fear of falling as a barrier.

So unfortunately it's almost impossible to try hard on lead or on top rope or on bouldering if you're scared to fall.

Fear of falling prevents you from climbing at your physical limit, either at all or in certain situations like a height above a bowl or crash pad.

If that feels like you, then you really need to think about doing some full practice, but please get guidance with it because it's very easy to get it wrong.

If you want to access TriHard quickly, you can take a few short, sharp breaths with a focus on the inhale.

This essentially brings your arousal levels up.

And it works better for bouldering or hard cruxes on a climb when maximising aerobic efficiency is less of a factor.

You can also use a mantra, listen to kind of intense music that gets you into that higher energy state.

Not even tired.

But the main thing though is motivation.

Are you motivated to try hard because you like trying hard?

If that's the case then you don't need to worry about these tricks.

Alright so why does all this matter?

I'm not a particularly strong climber but I've managed to get up a lot of climbs by tapping into certain performance states, especially flow and clutch.

If I couldn't do that then there's no way I would have been a professional climber.

I haven't always been this good at trying hard and it's been a skill that I've developed over time.

Every time you go near your edge, you expand your capacity to go there again.

But the main thing I've developed is the love of trying hard

and it's that motivation that is the best thing for accessing that state.

Here's a little paradox.

Trying hard is also letting go.

100

So there's kind of like a deeper layer here.

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Clutch isn't about forcing.

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Sometimes you try so hard not to fall that you overthink every move, you overgrip, you don't flow efficiently between moves.

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So accessing states like flow and clutch and try hard can be like kind of surrendering into the effort.

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It's letting your body climb, trusting your intuition.

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It's hard to explain how trying hard can also be a form of letting go, but that is kind of how it feels.

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It's full commitment, focus and effort, but without forcing.

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Hey guys, if you're into this stuff, I have a whole free webinar on how to access flow

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and clutch so that you can climb at your best and have a great time doing it.

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If you're psyched, check out the link below.

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The most memorable moments in climbing aren't the easy ones, they're the battles, the all out fights where you don't know if you'll stay on but you keep trying anyway.

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Working hard isn't a trait, it's not something you have or don't have,

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it's a skill and it's a skill that's easier to develop with an underlying mindset and you can train that mindset.

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Vocabulaire et conseils d’expression pour cette leçon

Cette vidéo contient 112 phrases et 1587 mots à répéter en shadowing. La partie parlée dure 10:11. Le locuteur parle à un rythme naturel d’environ 156 mots par minute, proche d’une conversation courante. 84 % des mots font partie des 3 000 mots les plus courants en anglais ; le reste mérite d’être vu avant de commencer.

Vocabulaire clé de cette vidéo

15 mots de la vidéo à retenir, avec leur prononciation et leur sens :

Mot	Prononciation	Sens
climb verbe	/ˈklaɪ̯m/	grimper, monter
clutch nom	/ˈklʌt͡ʃ/	embrayage
skill nom	/skɪl/	habileté, compétence
motivation nom	/ˈmoʊ.tə.veɪ.ʃən/	motivation
mindset nom	/ˈmaɪn(d)ˌsɛt/	état d'esprit, disposition d'esprit
activation nom	/ˌæktəˈveɪʃən/	activation
commitment nom	/kəˈmɪtmənt/	engagement
resource nom	/ɹɪˈzɔːs/	ressource
intensity nom	/ɪnˈtɛnsɪti/	intensité
scream verbe	/skɹiːm/	crier
anxious adjectif	/ˈæŋkʃəs/	inquiet
scare verbe	/skɛɚ/	effrayer
absorb verbe	/æbˈsɔɹb/	absorber
boulder nom	/ˈboʊl.dɚ/	rocher, boulder
sharp adjectif	/ʃɑɹp/	affilé, coupant

Les verbes à particule que vous entendrez

Mot	Sens
check out verbe	mater, regarder
come off verbe	se détacher, se décoller
get up verbe	se lever
give up verbe	se rendre

La grammaire de cette vidéo

Les structures que le locuteur utilise le plus, avec les mots exacts de la vidéo :

Structure	Dans la vidéo
Present perfect have/has + participe passé — une action passée qui compte encore maintenant	have been · I've given · I've found
Voix passive be + participe passé — l’accent est mis sur ce qui arrive, pas sur qui le fait	can be accessed · is only directed · was actually graded
Propositions relatives who / which + proposition — une précision sur une personne ou une chose	amwete which means · aroused which means

Prononciation à surveiller

Le locuteur utilise 57 contractions et formes réduites, comme you're, don't, I've. Prononcez-les sous leur forme courte, telles que vous les entendez.

Les sons « sh » et « zh »: motivation /ˈmoʊ.tə.veɪ.ʃən/, activation /ˌæktəˈveɪʃən/, anxious /ˈæŋkʃəs/, sharp /ʃɑɹp/, efficient /ɪˈfɪʃənt/
Mots longs — placez bien l’accent: motivation /ˈmoʊ.tə.veɪ.ʃən/, activation /ˌæktəˈveɪʃən/, intensity /ɪnˈtɛnsɪti/, essentially /ɪˈsɛnʃəli/, efficiency /ɪˈfɪʃ.ən.si/

Comment s’entraîner avec cette vidéo

Écoutez la vidéo en entier une fois sans parler et notez les mots que vous ne connaissez pas.
Commencez à la vitesse 0,75×, répétez phrase par phrase, puis revenez à la vitesse normale quand cela devient facile.
Enregistrez-vous et comparez avec l’original, en faisant attention à des mots comme climb, clutch, skill.

Qu'est-ce que la technique du Shadowing ?

Le Shadowing est une technique d'apprentissage des langues fondée sur la science, développée à l'origine pour la formation des interprètes professionnels. Le principe est simple mais puissant : vous écoutez de l'anglais natif et le répétez immédiatement à voix haute — comme une ombre suivant le locuteur avec un décalage de 1 à 2 secondes. Les recherches montrent une amélioration significative de la précision de la prononciation, de l'intonation, du rythme, des liaisons, de la compréhension orale et de la fluidité.

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Pratique du Shadowing: Trying hard is a skill. Here's how to train it. - Apprendre l'anglais à l'oral avec la vidéo

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