ฝึกพูดภาษาอังกฤษด้วยเทคนิค Shadowing จากวิดีโอ: Can a Wood Iwagumi Aquascape Exist?

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หากประโยคสั้นหรือยาวเกินไป กดที่ Edit เพื่อปรับแก้

Hello everyone, today I have this Eheim Clearscape set to build

and my favorite thing about this is it's not your regular 60 piece size, it's deeper.

It's actually 60 by 35 by 35 and I have the perfect hardscape to use this depth, so bear with me.

A little backstory, about a year ago when we received the shipment of hardscape from Riverrest,

there was some strange pieces mixed in with the ironwood.

Now this is clearly something different than what we usually use as ironwood, but I had to save these.

It's just a really interesting texture.

It's very very thin, and today is the day to actually use these.

My main idea with this main piece and all the rest is way smaller, so I'm gonna have to figure those out on the go

but this is to build a wall something like this

and trust the rigidity of this which is virtually non-existent

so put this in like this and build up the soil behind it

and have like a lower part in the front

and the really high soil in the back and carpeting and

so on the way i put these pieces away the sign on the box says wood Iwagumi 60p

so that's that's what this is gonna be basically i'm gonna build something like a mountain Iwagumi

but with wood only i'm hyped

and scared at the same time on how this is gonna

go i really need to figure out the perfect angle on how this is gonna actually stand.

I think this is gonna be the angle.

I want to really pull up the middle.

The side is gonna come up as well so that's what's gonna give me depth.

It actually comes out perfectly in like one third.

The top is pulling downwards which again works for depth.

I just need to make sure that this actually stands.

I need something to weigh down with and I picked a few pieces of Sensei stone because it almost broke the glass.

That was fun.

This has flat surfaces, so I can actually put it down and then glue the wood to it.

As always, I'm trying to work in a way that it sort of stands on its own, because this way I can avoid extra tension on it later on.

I'm gonna need glue and the fluffy stuff.

Now I need to fix the flexibility of the wood itself.

Okay, it's not visible from the front.

Perfect.

I was worried that the liquid glue is going to leak through these cracks, but it didn't.

Now the flex is gone.

Actually, this is a stage where the extra 5-centimeter depth comes in handy,

because this piece of wood would actually be almost touching the glass right now if it was a normal 60p.

But I still have space where I'm gonna be able to put plants and actually I'm thinking about

Raising it slightly putting another piece of rock down here that it stands on.

So yeah, I have this

Flow going towards the back

Actually the whole layout is gonna have like a strange

Physical twist not sure how to put it and I don't clearly see it myself yet Okay,

this seems to be a bit unstable at the moment, but what I'm going to do, which we never do, and it's very important that I don't forget now,

is I'm actually going to pull down a base layer of soil and then put the whole thing on top of it,

because I don't want to lose this end of the wood.

I don't want that to be covered by soil here in the corner.

These two pieces actually fit together quite nicely.

And I believe they could be good for this side to start off the same wall structure.

I'm going to have a rock underneath this as well, obviously, to have it way down.

If I leave this off, because I'm gonna, obviously, it's going to sit on top of the soil already.

I like how this goes through in between, like a part.

I'm going to have to glue this on because it can't really move forward.

I'm actually going to need a pair of eyes to help me.

So I don't actually see where I put the compound.

So if you could tell me if I'm in the correct place or not.

You are.

Yeah, go all the way through there.

What?

I mean...

Okay, thank you.

Thanks for the help.

I was actually thinking about making this side like a continuation of this, but it doesn't work out as I want it to.

But, I just realized that if I put this one here in the back, and I'm gonna have the high soil to put it on top,

that way I have three layers of hardscape instead of two.

Still summer in this.

I've asked for the next bottle, but...

Didn't get it, as usual.

It's gonna be great, my hand.

I can stand like this.

That's just perfect.

Okay, so I'm gonna actually take out all the pieces.

Uh oh.

Ah.

Hmm.

So this rock was glued onto the glass somehow.

I need my tools.

I have some leftover power sand.

This is the M size, which is, well, it's not for 60p, but it doesn't really matter that much.

I'm putting in a base layer, and then I'm going to put the hardscape back on top of the Amazonia,

finalize its position, and then fill up the rest of the soil.

I want about the same level all around the tank to start with, and then I'm going to raise wherever I want to.

This one goes back.

So I'm pushing it into the soil slightly to get the perfect angle and to make sure that I'm gonna be underwater.

Very nice addition to this cabinet from Eheim.

There's a shelf that you can use for checking your height.

I have about two, almost three centimeters from the top, so water level is gonna be higher than the hardscape, which is the goal, just higher.

Yeah, I need the angle on it.

I definitely need lots of soil.

I have no clue if this is going to stand.

So it's quite steep, especially here in the middle.

And this one comes on top of the soil in the back, so I need to wait with that.

Did I ever mention I hate working with wood?

This is so much easier to do with stones.

Okay, it's time to plant, so time to make the soil wet.

I'm going to start planting and I've chosen a bunch of different plants.

We are moving away from the wooden Iwagumi stuff because I don't want this to just be a carpet,

but it's going to be grass-like plants only.

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Grassy shapes are going to overcome the escape.

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Starting point of that is the good old L.A.

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Charisaticularis mini.

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I've said this many times before, but maybe some you haven't heard it yet one of my

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favorite tips to give for planting especially for LL Caris carpet

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is this plant tends to start its life in the aquarium by getting yellow

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and in some cases looking like it's almost dying that's actually just the leaves changing from immersed to submersed form.

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Now to avoid being freaked out by this effect and knowing exactly

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if it's just the leaves changing or there is an actual problem,

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the best thing you can do is grab a few of them and plant right beside the glass so you actually see.

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You don't want to do this in the front

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because it's not nice to look at

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but on the side it won't be visible normally but you can actually see the the plant inside the soil.

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If you see root development in that part then your plant is fine.

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It doesn't matter how brownish your plant turn, they're going to come back to life with new leaves.

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The guys just told me that I should have done this on the other side

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because this side of the tank is actually very visible in our gallery

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but this is a very good option to educate people in our shop

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so it's going to be fine like this we have actually

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used this ehan clear scape set before i believe it was

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attila who's built in it i've liked his layout a lot

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there's actually a video where I've gone around the whole showroom and rated all our aquariums.

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And in fact, it wasn't just me, it was some of you guys as well, because our YouTube members were invited to rate our tanks as well.

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But anyway, go check out the build video of that, because it's completely different from what I'm doing now.

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It's much more of a classic NA style setup.

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Some of you guys in the comments of that video

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highlighted how you don't like the red line on the cabinet that much.

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Now, to be honest, just having it as it is,

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I like it but obviously it's a question of where the cabinet is actually placed and what's around it.

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The red might be a bit popping off too much.

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In that case you can actually flip the doors upside down so the red line is on the bottom.

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So there's a small trick for if this is the only thing holding you back.

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And if you want to say again that you don't like it, then be careful, Eheim is watching.

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There's another feature of the cabinet that I actually like a lot

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and I don't think it's such a questionable thing as the red line.

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It's actually the openings on the side.

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It has this brush on it that comes in handy because you won't get dust starting to collect within the cabinet.

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Or if you have the aquarium set up,

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for example, in your bedroom and you are very sensitive about any kind of light during the night,

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in that case a lot of electronic devices have some lights on them within the cabinet, so through this the light won't come out.

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I'm not sure if that was the thinking behind it in any way.

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I would say probably not.

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But yeah, I find that quite handy.

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The base carpet is done.

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I have different types of grasses.

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I have Eleocharis parvula and Eleocharis acicularis.

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Now, these are the long ones, not the minis.

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So it's just going to come up here on the sides.

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And I also have Littorella uniflora, which I've used, I don't know, about 10 years ago once, and I have no idea how it's gonna look and how it's gonna behave,

149

but hey, it's time to try stuff.

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What I find a bit weird about these plants is, I don't think there are two occasions where we have the same plant.

151

So this Hatsklaris and Parvula, sometimes this is like the final size of the plant,

152

the plant and sometimes it grows like that in the front.

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I was quite sure that that plant was Eleocharis acicularis and the green aqua branded one.

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Now I've asked my colleague who ordered the plants to get me definitely the same plant for my IAPLC layout.

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He told me it's not acicularis, it's something else i don't remember what it was

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and we originally got that by mistake when we ordered at glade

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so at this point i have no clue anyway this can be trimmed

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so if it's going to be

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that long we can simply trim it back i really hope

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that this grass is actually going to be visible behind this line.

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Okay, so the box says it's a front growing plant, the Littorella Uniflora.

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So I guess it won't be very high.

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We can just pop it in between the normal carpet.

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I truly have no idea how this plant is going to look.

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I could have looked online, we probably have photos of it on our website.

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If you want to do a better job planning your plants for your next project,

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it's actually quite handy to go to greenacro.com and go through the plants,

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where we usually have pictures of how they look immersed and also how they look submersed,

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so once they got to use to the new space underwater, which can be quite different.

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I believe we have a whole video explaining that.

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I did a video about that.

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So yeah, if you have no clue what I'm talking about, go check that out.

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The next plant I'm going to use is Blixta Japonica, and the reason why I have it so big is

174

because it's actually stolen from my own aquarium

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so we don't have to wait for the in vitro version to melt

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and then start to grow because that's what's going to happen

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when you plant blixa it's perfectly normal don't worry about it

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90 of the time the whole plant just goes away

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and then it comes back to life this is the only reddish tint i want to see in this tank

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if i would be planting like

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rotalas

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or whatever those reds would for me clash with the dark

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brown of the wood in this layout obviously it's very often used together ironwood

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and red stem plants

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but in this case i don't want any strong red highlights

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the blixa is gonna have a very nice pinkish reddish tint on the tip of the the leaves and that's it.

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Actually the whole concept of using grass type plants only in different layouts is something that I've been experimenting with the past,

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I don't know, year but I like the effect I get from these tanks.

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Maybe just a few pieces here as well.

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These won't go red because these are in the shadow, but this way I can nicely connect the front to the back.

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Okay, I think I'm going to fill this corner with the blixer.

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I don't want any of the other plants in here.

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I have three plants I've never used before.

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One of them might be a bit out of what I'm after.

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I don't like to waste plants, but these might not go in.

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This is the Heterantera Zosterifolia.

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The image looks very good.

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It's not a proper grass type plant, it's a stem plant, but with very thin leaves, which sort of resembles grass.

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Now the other two plants I have is Jensis repens, which is a very nice plant and we don't use it at all.

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I don't know why.

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Do we have it anywhere in the gallery?

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I don't think Balazs uses it either.

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The other one is a new plant from tropica

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which is the Nyas Guadalupensis guppy grass

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which in most cases you see this plant just thrown into like fish holding tanks in shops

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but if you plant it it's actually quite nice stem plant in the background

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which you can grow very very dense

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and it has very very thin leaves okay so Pamy I'm sorry

209

but for the heterontera i probably won't use that okay this is not the easiest plant to take apart

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i'm gonna put the answers behind this big piece so it sticks out

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where is the bottom of this plant okay there it is

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it's probably not gonna be the easiest thing to plant what

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fish what fish don't know well it's a guppy grass

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so we could go with guppies

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and the guppies maybe does it look any good planted from the front

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because i have not checked on it since i've started planting yeah

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if you look at it like this part seems almost empty

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because the unisus repens here and the blixen front those are quite big right now

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but this one is the guppy grass which is very small at the moment, but it grows very quick.

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So this should look good in, I don't know, a week or two.

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Let's take a look.

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Yeah, it screams for crystal red shrimps, doesn't it?

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But the red shrimps, that's good, because those are small red patches.

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Well, see in a bit.

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By that time, I'm going to know what's inside.

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Here we are about three weeks after the initial setup and you can see that it's only been three weeks.

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Usually we show you a more dense, more developed carpet because we shoot these final shots four, five, six weeks after the setup.

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But you can see that there are some spots where plants are missing.

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But luckily I have planted my usual check plants on the side

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and I can see that root development is perfect

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and obviously I can see it on the carpet itself that's much more dense than it was on day one.

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What we still need to wait for is the coloring especially on the blixer.

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Here in the front is none, here in the back these slight reddish colors coming up

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and also the Jönsse Sripens that's coming to reddish colors some of the leaves are already red

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so when that comes up much much more.

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It should reach the top of this wood piece.

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It's going to be perfect.

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And as for the looks itself, like the effect that I was after, it's coming out perfectly.

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So You can see the green in between the cracks of the wood.

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With the fish and shrimps I wanted to play on this basic colourless of the tang, so it's It's very dull, just the greens with small bits of red.

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And the Andler guppies are perfect to balance that out, to bring some colour.

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And also the sakura shrimps with their red colours.

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And hey, it matches the logo as well.

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Of course if you guys are following us on social media, you have already seen the guppies here because we post some behind the scenes stuff.

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You've seen a photo of us letting these fish in.

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Now, throughout the making of this tank I've used the term wooden Iwagumi.

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I think I still stand by it.

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It sort of looks like an Iwagumi, just big wood.

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I don't think this should be like a new style.

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It's not that good.

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But maybe there is something in it.

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Maybe in the future we're going to develop this.

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Let me know if you like it, if you want this to be a new style or not.

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If you are not a fan of my insanity of making a wooden Iwagumi, you can check out the previous build in this Iheim clear escape tank, which was done by Attila,

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I believe, and that was a really nice nature-style tank, so you can find that video over here.

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สิ่งที่คุณจะได้เรียนรู้

ในวิดีโอนี้ คุณจะได้เรียนรู้ทักษะการพูดภาษาอังกฤษที่สำคัญหลายอย่าง เช่น:

การใช้คำศัพท์ที่เกี่ยวข้องกับการจัดสวน ในน้ำ (aquascaping)
การอธิบายขั้นตอนการทำงานอย่างละเอียด
การแสดงอารมณ์และความรู้สึกเมื่อทำการออกแบบ

ฟังเสียงเหล่านี้

ในบทสนทนา คุณจะได้ยินการเชื่อมเสียง (connected speech) ที่น่าสนใจ เช่น:

การลดเสียงในคำบางคำ เช่น "going to" เป็น "gonna"
การเชื่อมคำเมื่อพูด เช่น "going to" อาจฟังดูเหมือน "gonna" ที่พูดเร็ว

การฟังเสียงเหล่านี้จะช่วยให้คุณปรับปรุงการออกเสียงภาษาอังกฤษได้ดีขึ้นในระยะยาว

พูดเหมือนเจ้าของภาษา

เพื่อให้คุณสามารถพูดได้อย่างเป็นธรรมชาติ คล้ายกับผู้พูดในวิดีโอ คุณควรให้ความสนใจกับ:

จังหวะการพูด (rhythm) และการเน้นเสียง (stress) ในคำที่สำคัญ
การให้ความสำคัญกับน้ำเสียงและอารมณ์ในบทสนทนา

การทำ shadowing หรือการพูดตามเสียงในวิดีโอ จะช่วยให้คุณฝึกฝนทักษะการพูดภาษาอังกฤษได้อย่างมีประสิทธิภาพ คุณสามารถเข้าไปที่ shadowing site หรือลอง shadow speak เพื่อฝึกพูดภาษาอังกฤษจากวิดีโอเหล่านี้ได้โดยตรง

ไวยากรณ์ในวิดีโอนี้

โครงสร้างที่ผู้พูดใช้บ่อยที่สุด พร้อมคำพูดจริงจากวิดีโอ:

โครงสร้าง	ในวิดีโอ
Present perfect have/has + กริยาช่อง 3 — เหตุการณ์ในอดีตที่ยังเกี่ยวข้องกับปัจจุบัน	I've asked · I've chosen · I've said
Passive voice be + กริยาช่อง 3 — เน้นสิ่งที่เกิดขึ้น ไม่ใช่ผู้กระทำ	be covered · was glued · being freaked
Relative clauses who / which + อนุประโยค — ข้อมูลเพิ่มเติมเกี่ยวกับคนหรือสิ่งของ	this which is · size, which is · hardscape, which is

เทคนิค Shadowing คืออะไร?

Shadowing เป็นเทคนิคการเรียนรู้ภาษาที่ได้รับการรับรองทางวิทยาศาสตร์ พัฒนาขึ้นสำหรับการฝึกนักแปลมืออาชีพ วิธีการนี้เรียบง่ายแต่ทรงพลัง: คุณฟังเสียงภาษาอังกฤษจากเจ้าของภาษาและพูดตามทันที — เหมือนเงาที่ตามผู้พูดด้วยช่วงเวลาห่าง 1-2 วินาที การวิจัยแสดงว่าเทคนิคนี้ปรับปรุงความแม่นยำในการออกเสียง ทำนองเสียง จังหวะ การเชื่อมเสียง การฟังเข้าใจ และความคล่องแคล่วในการพูดได้อย่างมีนัยสำคัญ

เทคนิค shadowing: อ่านคู่มือฉบับเต็มทีละขั้นตอน →

ฝึกพูดภาษาอังกฤษด้วยเทคนิค Shadowing จากวิดีโอ: Can a Wood Iwagumi Aquascape Exist?

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เทคนิค Shadowing คืออะไร?