ฝึกพูดภาษาอังกฤษด้วยเทคนิค Shadowing จากวิดีโอ: How To Wire a House Main Electrical Panel Load Center & Layout Tips Full Step By Step Process 200Amp

เลือกโหมดฝึก

แต่ละโหมดจะเปิดห้องฝึกแบบเต็มจอ

378 ประโยค

หากประโยคสั้นหรือยาวเกินไป กดที่ Edit เพื่อปรับแก้

Hey, thanks for stopping by.

Today we're going to be wiring this electrical panel in detail.

I'll pretty much cover everything start to finish as much as possible.

So, please get a cup of coffee and a notepad.

I think there'll be a few things that you and I can learn together as we go through this process.

There are links down in the description to materials that you'll need for this project,

as well as other videos where I cover some other electrical topics more specifically.

And then, also, this video was a ton of work to make, so if this ends up helping you out,

would you mind hitting that thumbs up button and sharing the video?

Subscribe to the channel if you want to see more videos like this one, and hit that bell icon to be notified about future videos.

Alright, let's jump into this project.

My name is Ben, by the way.

Before you do any electrical work, you're going to want to get the proper permits to do so.

So make sure you do that before you get started on your electrical project.

And then we're going to want to have all of our circuits pulled to our panel location.

So I've got all my circuits pulled already here and have them marked for where they are coming from and going to.

And then we're going to want to fully disconnect power from the panel.

We really want to get the power 100 % disconnected so

that you don't have to work around those live lugs during the duration of your project.

So if you have a cutoff panel like I do, you can simply go out and turn off that cutoff panel

and put a lock on it to prevent anyone from accidentally turning on the power.

But more likely you're going to have an electrical meter

that's going to have to be pulled out of its socket in order to disconnect power.

Because typically your meter would be mounted on the outside of the house

and then those wires would feed directly into your main panel.

So you'll need to contact your electrical cooperative or whatever electrical company

that you have

and ask them the procedure for getting your meter pulled out of the socket in order to get your power fully disconnected.

So here you can see we've got all of our different wires coming from our cutoff panel

or it would be coming from your meter normally.

So if this was a standard panel and you did not have a cutoff panel,

you'd have your two main legs of 120 volts each and a neutral in the middle.

You would have a ground wire which is right here that would be coming from your grounding rods.

Since this is technically a sub panel we have one more wire which is this one right here.

This is a ground wire that goes all the way back to my cutoff panel and ties into the ground there.

Therefore you have to have your bonding screw removed.

There's a bonding screw and or a little copper piece that goes from your neutrals

to the cabinet or casing of your panel.

And if it is a subpanel, you have to get rid of that.

You have to take it out.

Take that green screw out.

In the case of this one, there's a green screw that bonds this to the casing.

That cannot be there.

Take that out and add a ground bar.

You'll have to actually add a grounding bar to your panel if it is technically a subpanel.

Now I'd suggest adding a grounding bar anyway depending on the layout of your panel.

Some are really intuitively designed, some have a more, it's more difficult.

So I put this grounding bar here initially because that's how far my ground wire reached.

I added a second ground bar right here

so that I can land all my grounds down here

and keep my gutter space over here pretty free

because it's kind of tricky to get that many ground wires in right there.

So now I have the option of bringing all my wires down here or this side, I'm not sure exactly yet,

and pull all those grounds up into this ground bar down here.

And the ground bars, you should make sure you always have one

that is the same manufacturer as the manufacturer of your panel.

So right here is our number six solid copper ground wire that goes out to our two grounding bars located outside.

And those grounding bars are pounded in the ground 10 feet apart from each other.

And that grounding wire then connects onto the grounding bar in this particular panel because it is technically a sub -panel.

But if this was a normal service entrance panel where you didn't have a cutoff panel,

that copper wire would just hook straight into the neutral bus.

This is a QO2D 4D space panel, and if you can, there's a couple different types of panels now.

Some of them are what they call plug on neutral, or that's what

Square D calls it at least.

And a plug on neutral panel basically has a neutral

that runs down right here and right here so that you don't have to use pigtail arc fault and ground fault breakers.

So this is a dual function breaker.

I'm going to have to roll all these pigtails up in the gutter here

and connect them to the neutral bar and then bring the neutrals directly to this.

So if you can get one of the newer style panels, you don't have to deal with all these pigtails

and this snaps right on there and you don't have to worry about all of the pigtails.

But if you have an existing panel and it's adequate, go for it.

Always opt for a panel with as many spaces as you can get for a 200 amp panel.

I saw a guy recently, I think he said he had 52 spaces and it was a plug -on neutral QO square D panel.

That would be the optimal way to go.

When I got this panel, those options weren't yet available.

So you're going to want to stock up on all the stuff that you're going to need for doing a project.

It's worth it to just go ahead ahead of time and make sure you have everything that you need.

In my case, it's a lot of arc fault breakers because arc fault breakers are almost required everywhere in the house.

So arc fault or dual function, this is a dual function.

It's both ground fault and arc fault.

They all aren't going to have these pigtails unless you use the plug -on neutral

that I was talking about where this terminal right here acts as your neutral.

In my case, I need to use the ones with the pigtails because I do not have that option.

Now there's never going to be two panels that are wired exactly the same, especially just varying from company to company,

electrician to electrician are going to have different methods for wiring panels.

Overall there's a lot of different ways that it can be done that is going to meet code just fine,

but it's a huge variance from rats nests

or what look like rats nests inside of here to meticulously placed wiring in the entire panel.

I'd recommend the latter so that you have something that you really can wrap your mind around.

When you look in it, it should be pretty self -explanatory to see what exactly is happening.

Especially if you're going to wire it yourself,

make sure you take the time to do a really neat job so that your inspector will be pleased with you.

You're going to have to have this inspected

and you want to do everything that you can to do a great job with it.

Before you even start wiring your panel, I would highly recommend contacting whoever the inspector is in your area,

letting them know what you're going to do, and see if they have any tips.

You want to make a plan before

you get started pulling wires into the panel for where you're going to put your different circuit breakers.

100

So write out all the circuits that you have on a piece of paper, and you can kind of see the concept that I used here.

101

I put all my double pole breakers on the left hand side there as well as the surge breaker

102

which is also using two slots

103

and then I pull all of my single circuits on the right hand side

104

and starting at the bottom right there you can see I've got my lighting circuits

105

I literally have three breakers for the whole house they're all 15 amp circuits

106

so I ran 14 gauge wires to those the basement

107

and outside lights and smoke detectors you put the smoke detectors on the same circuit as a light circuit.

108

That way you notice if that gets turned off.

109

And then the main level lights right above that and the attic and upstairs lights.

110

And then up from there you can see I kind of covered the kitchen

111

and then I covered outside and then kind of the rest of my general circuits going across the bathroom circuits.

112

And then at the very top, those top three breakers are the only three breakers that are actually normal breakers.

113

They're not dual function ground fault or arc fault they're just normal

114

which is kind of interesting

115

and then the going down

116

there you can see where i have df written next to the breakers those are ones

117

that i'm potentially going to have be dual function breakers

118

so they'll be both ground fault and arc fault

119

and that'll prevent me from having to install ground fault outlets throughout the house i might do a combination though

120

and so that's not totally decided on

121

and then the one spot where i moved the dining room receptacles to be on the third kitchen circuit.

122

That's because the dining room actually has to be on its own circuit and it can't be shared with other general receptacles.

123

Something that I learned after the fact from the inspector.

124

I'll be using a combination of this wire stripper here.

125

It's designed where you can strip the sheathing off.

126

As you can see we've got 12 -2

127

and 14 -2 as options for what can be stripped using this tool here where you can cut the sheathing

128

and then pull the sheathing off of the cable and this is called a cable ripper.

129

The wire slides into it

130

and then you squeeze this down and pull the wire and it cuts the sheathing just like this.

131

I didn't cut it just now but that's how it works.

132

So as you see I've got all my circuits pulled already.

133

They're all ready to go.

134

When you pull your circuits you want to leave enough where it's dangling down below the panel about three feet.

135

You just want to make sure you have plenty of wire.

136

You're gonna end up snipping a lot of it off

137

but it's gonna be able to be put to use elsewhere in the house as pigtails

138

and other things and it's much better to have a little bit of extra

139

that you have to clip off than to not have enough.

140

Now I went ahead and knocked a bunch of these knockouts open up here,

141

I'm going to bring all my wires in the top of this panel,

142

it can be brought in the side depending on how you want to wire yours

143

but that's the way we are going to do it here today.

144

So I'm going to start by bringing all my wires into the panel and stripping the sheathing off.

145

I'm going to bring the sheathing into the panel by about 3 quarters of an inch or so

146

and then take the sheathing off of each cable making sure

147

to keep my labeling on each of the black wires as I bring those in

148

and the white really I'll probably put them together and then

149

I'm going to start by bringing all of my grounds down to my ground bar

150

and lay those all in there really neatly before I go on to anything else

151

so that's going to take me a little while.

152

I'm going to let these time lapses play through in their full length, that way you can see all of the details.

153

So we're going to start with our dryer wires here.

154

These are 10 gauge, 10 -3 wires, so they have three insulated conductors and one ground.

155

We're pulling those through a single half -inch knockout.

156

And make sure that you have your knockout or your cable clamp

157

or connector in place before you pull the wires through it

158

and I trimmed those wires back before pulling them through

159

because they're back behind those service entrance cables as you can see

160

so it would be difficult to pull the wires through

161

and cut the sheathing off if I had left the sheathing on it

162

then we're going to take the markings that were on the end of

163

that wire there and slide them over the wires after I pulled the insulation off.

164

And then we're landing those ground wires there on the bottom of the panel.

165

Now we're opening the knockout here for the range wire,

166

the electric range, and putting in that 3 quarter inch connector, so this is a little bit larger connector, and this is a 6 -3 wire.

167

So we have three insulated conductors again, and this is a six gauge wire.

168

So I'll link in the description to the different size wires that I used for these.

169

And again bringing that ground wire down to the bottom.

170

And we're putting the ground wires down in the bottom of the panel there

171

because that is where they are most out of the way.

172

So we mounted that extra ground bar down there.

173

You can see that I have a ground bar on the left, and that could work, but it does take up more gutter space.

174

So to bring the wires down over on the left

175

and make all those bends right there would take up quite a bit of gutter space.

176

So by bringing them all the way down to the bottom, that space isn't used for anything else usually anyway,

177

so we can put all those ground wires there.

178

You can do this with the ground wires

179

because they don't need to be separated for any specific reason they're all tied together

180

and so they can all go in right away

181

and you don't have to worry about keeping track of

182

which ground wire is from which circuit unlike with these 12 gauge wires

183

or all the rest of the circuits we need to really keep track of both the hot

184

and the neutral it used to be

185

that you only had to keep track of the hot wire because it was going to a traditional breaker,

186

but now that we're using ground fault or arc fault breakers for almost everything in the house,

187

you need to keep track of both the neutral and the hot wire,

188

so make sure you take that marked piece of sheathing from the end of the cable

189

and slide it back up over the neutral

190

and the hot wire to keep track of it

191

and keep all those circuits separate

192

and then we're just hanging those wires off to the side there

193

so they're not hanging in our face too much

194

and we did those big wires all first just to get those really stiff wires out of the way

195

and done so that we can work with these smaller circuits

196

and we're pulling through the 12 -2 and and the 14 -2 wires,

197

we can put.. two cables or two 14 -2 wires

198

or two 12 -2 wires through one single half inch knockout

199

and cable connector which is nice because otherwise you'll run out of knockouts pretty quickly

200

if you only run one cable through each one.

201

And then I ended up actually using a utility knife for trimming back the sheathing on these, on a lot of them anyway.

202

The cable ripper tends to be a little bit,

203

it can sometimes damage the sheathing or the insulation of the conductors as well as the utility knife could,

204

but just make sure you're really careful

205

and you can run the utility knife down the center of the cable where there is

206

that bare ground wire anyway and you won't damage anything.

207

So we're pulling a couple more through here.

208

And when you tighten up those cable connectors,

209

you just want to tighten them up until they're snug enough to hold the cable in place without it moving.

210

But you don't want to tighten them so much that you damage the wires by crimping them together super hard.

211

And then we are anchoring the wires with these multi -cable staples, which are super handy because you can open them

212

and close them again they kind of snap open and snap closed

213

so I'll link those down below

214

and we need to anchor the cables within 12 inches of

215

the panel wherever the they come out of the knockout need to be anchored within

216

that 12 inches

217

and as you pull the cables into the top of the panel make sure

218

you just use the back knockouts first just makes it a lot easier

219

and then you can kind of just work back to front

220

that way and we've got the 12 -2 cables again

221

that can go through in pairs as well as the 14 -2 cables.

222

Anything that is a three conductor cable like a 14 -3

223

or a 12 -3 should probably have its own knockout as well as the larger wires.

224

Alright so I've got all of this half pulled into the panel

225

and the ground wire is brought to the ground bar

226

and it's kind of a pain but thankfully I'm done with my big ones.

227

I've got my range wire and my two dryer wires in here now.

228

So all I have left is these.

229

So no big deal.

230

Yeah, I'll show you a close -up of what the ground wires are looking like.

231

Alright, so I'm keeping my wires really nicely tucked right in that corner there.

232

And you can see that I bring them down to this level

233

and then make them have a turn directly that way and then down.

234

So as I pull all these wires in over here, I'll be doing the same thing, bringing the wires straight across and down.

235

There's the first ground bar that I'm really not using because I have that other one in the bottom.

236

So here's our ground bar.

237

When you're landing your ground wires, you can put multiple wires under one screw.

238

Now, if you have enough space, I would suggest just going with two wires per screw.

239

In fact, I believe this bar right here, according to what I'm reading here on the tag that goes with it,

240

it says two 14 or 12 gauge wires that are copper.

241

So, that's what is recommended for this bar.

242

Now, I could be reading that incorrectly, but overall, I would stick with two per screw, especially if you have space.

243

You can see I still even have extra space here.

244

And if you really want to, you can just do one.

245

Alright, so now what I'm doing is I'm installing the breakers.

246

I know that I may have to pop one out at a time to attach wires, potentially.

247

But I'm doing this whole pigtail situation thing.

248

unrolling each one and then pulling them

249

or hooking them into the neutral bus always start with this back row first

250

when you're putting your neutrals in because you'll be glad you did

251

because if you fill up the front row first you will be wishing

252

that you would have filled up to the back row first, because it's a lot more difficult to get to this back row after the fact,

253

and get it good and tight.

254

So up here when you're landing your neutral wires, you just have to remember that you're only allowed to put one neutral wire under one screw,

255

unlike grounds where you can be allowed to I think by code you can even put up to four

256

but you need to look at your panel and make sure that the requirements of the panel

257

aren't different because like

258

that grounding bar said you can only have two grounds under one screw wow

259

this looks really nice you know i'm i'm pleased with this to date or to this point

260

sometimes people will take and put tags on each one of the wires as they come into the breakers

261

it's kind of like this tag right here

262

it has its destination written on it that's a really good idea

263

it's a lot better than nothing at all it actually might be the best method

264

but in order to keep my cabinet as clean as possible i'm going to just number them

265

that correspond to each location so two four six eight ten

266

and so on and put that on the the black wire for each circuit

267

and then what i'll have is a legend or maybe that's the wrong word but basically on my cover for my panel,

268

I'll have the exact description of what those numbers go to, which is currently what's on like these tags here.

269

But just to not have all of these little bits of sheathing in here, I'm just going to use numbers and put them on here.

270

Because the main point of having a number on here

271

and then having a way to figure out what

272

that number means is that if you take some of the wires off of the breakers

273

and then you forget which one was which, then you have a number that tells you where it went

274

and then I'll have a paper that tells me what each one of those numbers was supposed to go to.

275

So that's what I'm going to work on now

276

and I'm just going to work on figuring out the best way to route these cables in here

277

that looks really neat and is very functional.

278

So I think I'm going to bring all of these down on the right here.

279

And you can do it a couple different ways.

280

You can either clip the wires at the exact length that you think you need them to be, which is what I've seen some electricians do,

281

or you can take it down a little bit further

282

and then come back up to the breaker that you want to go to, which is the method that I'm going to take

283

because I really like the flexibility of having a little bit of cable left over in the cabinet

284

so that if you want to move it later, you can.

285

So that's, again, a preferential thing that I like to do because if I put my wire that comes to this breaker,

286

if I just bring it straight down and then land it, it's not going to be able to move anywhere except for right there.

287

So, if I bring my wires down and loop them back up and in, it's a little inconvenient to get all the wires bundled in here,

288

but it should be pretty well, it should work pretty well as long as I keep it organized.

289

So you can see that I pretty much have all of my breakers installed.

290

You can see on the right hand side there that bundle of white wires coming up, that's all of those pigtails coming from those ground fault

291

or dual function and arc fault breakers

292

and that's the nice thing about plug -on neutral is it prevents having all

293

that wire there it just simplifies things a lot

294

and saves a lot of gutter space so we're bringing our wires down now

295

and then back up again so

296

that we can have a little bit of extra wire

297

that's saved in case we need to move them around in the future

298

and then you want to take the wires that are coming in the back of the panel, so the very top on the back,

299

and take those wires down first to land those on the breakers.

300

That way it just makes it a lot easier as you go down and land them.

301

So you don't land them in the order of the breakers being installed,

302

you land them based on which wires came in the back of the panel first.

303

And it works out pretty good that way.

304

And then we actually have one normal breaker here.

305

It's amazing.

306

And we're going to land

307

that neutral right there on the top like you used to do and then the hot wire goes straight to the breaker.

308

When you're bending your wires around corners just pay attention to how sharp you're bending them.

309

You don't want to bend them too sharp otherwise

310

it can kind of create a hot spot in the wire potentially and just weaken the wire in general.

311

So one guideline I've heard is using kind of the radius

312

of the bottom of a pop can just as kind of

313

a reminder of that's about how sharp of a curve

314

that you really want to have on a wire all right

315

so here's what it's looking like got a loop at the bottom right there

316

that loops down and then back up again and

317

then I'm making a turn on them and I'm making two labels for each one since the

318

neutrals

319

and the hots have to go together

320

I'm putting a little label on each one with the with their respective number for the circuit all right

321

we're down to the last couple here

322

This is number 26.

323

As I pull the piece of sheathing off that was on the wire, I write down the number on it.

324

Then I take my little tags and set them here.

325

When fishing these wires through the cabinet, towards the end here, it's been kind of tricky.

326

It's getting kind of full.

327

So I take my electrical tool here and just twist the ends together a little bit.

328

It makes it easier to push it through where you need to get it to go.

329

Once you kind of get the hang of it, you'll know kind of about how long it needs to be.

330

about like that, and then I clip it right about here, and then I strip this back,

331

being sure to use the right spot, slide your tag on.

332

It generally is easier to get the wire underneath it if the screw is loosened.

333

Got to make sure all the tags are super organized and beautiful because nobody is ever going to look at them.

334

So these are really heavy -duty wires coming into this breaker here

335

and this breaker is for the range and so since they are

336

so heavy they are a multi stranded wire and

337

so what happens is when you first insert them into the breaker

338

and tighten it down you can tighten them really far

339

but they and it will feel like it's tight

340

but they could work loose so we got to do is kind of wiggle

341

that wire back and forth in the connection

342

and then retighten the screws again and then you'll know for sure

343

that you've got a really good connection on your breaker there

344

and straightening out the wires is kind of a time -consuming process

345

but the product in the end is I think worth it it's pretty fun

346

so just a couple of things to point out to you guys

347

so you're not too concerned these two breakers up here those are just to hold those wires in place temporarily

348

I didn't have another 30 amp double pole breaker so that is a very temporary thing.

349

Now on the left top here you can see there's my surge breaker.

350

I'll link to that in the description.

351

It's a pretty cool device.

352

It's a surge protector for your whole house.

353

But I want to note that I contacted

354

Square D and they recommended actually that I tie that

355

neutral coming out of that surge breaker straight into the ground bar even though technically it

356

It says to put it to the neutral bus, and the reason for that is that since this is in a sub -panel,

357

the sub -panel has its own separate grounding system and stuff.

358

Not separate, but it has the ground separated, and so you want that to go straight to the grounding rods that are for that building,

359

and not to the neutral bus in this case.

360

And you also want that wire to be as short as possible.

361

So I just wanted to note that I'm aware of that

362

and just in case anyone else decides to put in a surge breaker.

363

Now I had all of the wires draped all the way down to the floor pretty much

364

and some of them were even like laying on the floor a little bit

365

and I thought that it was going to be really excessive

366

but actually it wasn't terribly excessive so definitely don't skimp on the amount of wire hanging down below the panel.

367

So there you have it.

368

The panel is wired.

369

This took about 10 hours of time, I'm guessing, approximately.

370

And it may take you less time because you're probably faster than me.

371

Doing a detailed job like this takes a little more time, but I think it's worth it.

372

This has been how to wire your main electrical panel.

373

I hope this helped you out in planning and design and implementation of a main panel in your house.

374

And if you have any comments or suggestions, please leave them down below.

375

Anything that you think would add to this video or information that I may have missed, please just feel free to comment.

376

That would be terrific.

377

Thanks for watching and we will talk to you in the next video.

378

Thank you.

ดาวน์โหลดแอป

ทุกอย่างที่ต้องใช้เพื่อพูดได้คล่อง

AI ให้คะแนนการออกเสียงให้คะแนนทุกประโยค

ฝึก IPAเชี่ยวชาญทุกเสียง

คำศัพท์สร้างคลังคำของคุณ

เกมคำศัพท์เล่นไปเรียนไป

สแกน QR

Download on theApp Store Get it onGoogle Play

FOR YOU

วิดีโอแนะนำ

129 ประโยค

Inside the Relay Controlled SF6 Circuit Breaker: Preventing Arcs and Ensuring Safety

Daily ConversationUniversity StudentsWorking Adults

116 ประโยค

How To Become Dangerously Self-Educated (complete plan)

Daily ConversationUniversity StudentsWorking Adults

176 ประโยค

Every Networking Concept Explained | Networking 101 (2026)

Daily ConversationUniversity StudentsWorking Adults

คำศัพท์และข้อสังเกตด้านการพูดสำหรับบทเรียนนี้

บทเรียนฝึกพูดนี้ใช้วิดีโอ “How To Wire a House Main Electrical Panel Load Center & Layout Tips Full Step By Step Process 200Amp” เป็นสื่อ คำที่ถูกพูดซ้ำบ่อยที่สุด: wire, panel, ground, breaker, neutral วิดีโอนี้มี 378 ประโยค และ 5057 คำ สำหรับฝึกพูดตาม ช่วงที่มีเสียงพูดยาว 29:34 ผู้พูดพูดด้วยความเร็วเป็นธรรมชาติ ประมาณ 171 คำต่อนาที ใกล้เคียงกับบทสนทนาในชีวิตประจำวัน 84% ของคำอยู่ใน 3,000 คำที่ใช้บ่อยที่สุดในภาษาอังกฤษ ส่วนที่เหลือควรดูไว้ก่อนเริ่มฝึก

คำศัพท์สำคัญในวิดีโอนี้

คำที่ควรเรียนรู้ 15 คำจากวิดีโอ พร้อมคำอ่านและความหมาย:

คำศัพท์	คำอ่าน	ความหมาย
wire คำนาม	/ˈwaɪɚ/	ลวด, สาย
neutral คำคุณศัพท์	/ˈnuː.tɹəl/	เป็นกลาง
dual คำคุณศัพท์	/ˈdul/	ทวิพจน์
plug คำนาม	/plʌɡ/	ปลั๊ก, เต้าเสียบ
strip คำกริยา	/ˈstɹɪp/	แก้ผ้า, เปลื้องผ้า
slide คำนาม	/ˈslaɪ̯d/	กระดานลื่น
copper คำนาม	/ˈkɒpə/	ทองแดง
technically คำกริยาวิเศษณ์	/ˈtɛk.nɪˌkəl.i/	วิชาการ
conductor คำนาม	/kənˈdʌktɚ/	วาทยกร, ผู้อำนวยเพลง
metre คำนาม	/ˈmiːtəɹ/	เมตร
sharp คำคุณศัพท์	/ʃɑɹp/	คม, แหลม
label คำนาม	/ˈleɪ.bəl/	ฉลาก
knife คำนาม	/ˈnaɪ̯f/	มีด, พร้า
loop คำนาม	/luːp/	บ่วง
inspector คำนาม	/ɪnˈspɛk.tɚ/	ผู้ตรวจสอบ, ผู้ตรวจการณ์

กริยาวลีที่คุณจะได้ยิน

คำศัพท์	ความหมาย
go out คำกริยา	ออก, ออกไป

ประโยคที่ควรฝึกพูดซ้ำ

ประโยคสั้น ๆ ที่สมบูรณ์จากวิดีโอ ซึ่งนำไปใช้ในบทสนทนาประจำวันได้:

Alright, let's jump into this project.
It's designed where you can strip the sheathing off.
We're pulling those through a single half -inch knockout.
I'll link to that in the description.
It's a surge protector for your whole house.

ไวยากรณ์ในวิดีโอนี้

โครงสร้างที่ผู้พูดใช้บ่อยที่สุด พร้อมคำพูดจริงจากวิดีโอ:

โครงสร้าง	ในวิดีโอ
ประโยคเงื่อนไข if + อนุประโยค, will/would + กริยา — เงื่อนไขและผลลัพธ์	if you have enough space, I would suggest
“used to” used to + กริยา — นิสัยหรือสภาพในอดีตที่ตอนนี้ไม่เป็นแล้ว	used to be · used to do
Passive voice be + กริยาช่อง 3 — เน้นสิ่งที่เกิดขึ้น ไม่ใช่ผู้กระทำ	be notified · be pulled · would be mounted
Present perfect have/has + กริยาช่อง 3 — เหตุการณ์ในอดีตที่ยังเกี่ยวข้องกับปัจจุบัน	have left · I've seen · I've heard

การออกเสียงที่ควรระวัง

ผู้พูดใช้รูปย่อและรูปลดเสียง 127 ครั้ง เช่น I'm, you're, we're ให้พูดแบบสั้นตามที่ได้ยิน

เสียง “th”: underneath /ˌʌndɚˈniθ/, thumb /ˈθʌm/, sheath /ʃiθ/
เสียง “sh” และ “zh”: sharp /ʃɑɹp/, potentially /pəˈtɛnʃ(ə)li/, insulation /ˌɪnsəˈleɪʃən/, implementation /ˌɪmplɪmənˈteɪʃən/, destination /dɛstɪˈneɪʃən/
คำยาว — ลงเสียงหนักให้ถูกพยางค์: electrical /ɪˈlɛktɹɪkəl/, technically /ˈtɛk.nɪˌkəl.i/, potentially /pəˈtɛnʃ(ə)li/, utility /juːˈtɪlɪti/, manufacturer /ˌmænjʊˈfæktʃəɹə/

เสียงที่คนไทยมักออกเสียงยาก:

เสียงท้ายคำ — ออกเสียงให้ครบ ไม่เปลี่ยนเป็นตัวสะกดแบบไทย: neutral /ˈnuː.tɹəl/, electrical /ɪˈlɛktɹɪkəl/, dual /ˈdul/, gauge /ˈɡeɪd͡ʒ/, surge /sɝd͡ʒ/
/v/ — ไม่ใช่ /w/ ให้ฟันบนแตะริมฝีปากล่าง: excessive /ɪkˈsɛsɪv/, whoever /huˈɛvɚ/, wherever /(h)wɛɹˈɛvɚ/, vary /ˈvɛəɹi/, respective /ɹɪˈspɛktɪv/
/z/ — เสียงก้อง ไม่ใช่ /s/: squeeze /skwiːz/, upstairs /ˌʌpˈstɛɹz/

วิธีฝึกกับวิดีโอนี้

ฟังวิดีโอให้จบหนึ่งรอบโดยยังไม่ต้องพูด แล้วจดคำที่ยังไม่รู้จัก
เริ่มที่ความเร็ว 0.75× พูดตามทีละประโยค แล้วกลับไปใช้ความเร็วปกติเมื่อเริ่มคล่อง
อัดเสียงตัวเองแล้วเทียบกับต้นฉบับ โดยสังเกตคำอย่าง wire, neutral, dual เป็นพิเศษ

เทคนิค Shadowing คืออะไร?

Shadowing เป็นเทคนิคการเรียนรู้ภาษาที่ได้รับการรับรองทางวิทยาศาสตร์ พัฒนาขึ้นสำหรับการฝึกนักแปลมืออาชีพ วิธีการนี้เรียบง่ายแต่ทรงพลัง: คุณฟังเสียงภาษาอังกฤษจากเจ้าของภาษาและพูดตามทันที — เหมือนเงาที่ตามผู้พูดด้วยช่วงเวลาห่าง 1-2 วินาที การวิจัยแสดงว่าเทคนิคนี้ปรับปรุงความแม่นยำในการออกเสียง ทำนองเสียง จังหวะ การเชื่อมเสียง การฟังเข้าใจ และความคล่องแคล่วในการพูดได้อย่างมีนัยสำคัญ

เทคนิค shadowing: อ่านคู่มือฉบับเต็มทีละขั้นตอน →

ฝึกพูดภาษาอังกฤษด้วยเทคนิค Shadowing จากวิดีโอ: How To Wire a House Main Electrical Panel Load Center & Layout Tips Full Step By Step Process 200Amp

เลือกโหมดฝึก

ดาวน์โหลดแอป

Single Phase Electricity Explained - wiring diagram energy meter

Repairing Big Dents with Body Filler: Full Auto Body Tutorial

Architectural Design Process Explained

Helpdesk to Sysadmin - 3 Things You Must Learn First

I Made an EMP Device... It Actually Works

What is a PLC and how does it work?

I Drove 10,000 Miles Around America Alone | Part 1

Database Sharding! Designing Data-Intensive Applications chapter 6

Well Pump Current #electrical #motorcontrol

Inside the Relay Controlled SF6 Circuit Breaker: Preventing Arcs and Ensuring Safety

How To Become Dangerously Self-Educated (complete plan)

Every Networking Concept Explained | Networking 101 (2026)

คำศัพท์และข้อสังเกตด้านการพูดสำหรับบทเรียนนี้

คำศัพท์สำคัญในวิดีโอนี้

กริยาวลีที่คุณจะได้ยิน

ประโยคที่ควรฝึกพูดซ้ำ

ไวยากรณ์ในวิดีโอนี้

การออกเสียงที่ควรระวัง

วิธีฝึกกับวิดีโอนี้

เทคนิค Shadowing คืออะไร?