跟读练习: One of the world’s oldest condiments - Dan Kwartler - 通过YouTube学习英语口语
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In the mid-18th century, England was crazy for ketchup.
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In the mid-18th century, England was crazy for ketchup.
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The sauce was a staple, and countless cookbooks encouraged adding ketchup to stews, vegetables, and even desserts.
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If these seem like odd places for ketchup’s tangy tomato flavor, that’s because this ketchup wasn’t the ubiquitous red goop you’re thinking of.
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In fact, this sweet and savory brown sauce didn't even have tomatoes in it.
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So where did this early ketchup come from?
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And how did it become the dip we know and love today?
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To answer these questions, we’ll need to turn to ketchup’s condiment cousin: fish sauce.
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As early as 300 BCE, Chinese fishermen routinely caught batches of small fish that were too plentiful to eat all at once, but too time consuming to individually preserve.
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So often, the day’s catch would be salted and stored together.
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Over several months, the fish would ferment as their internal enzymes broke down their bodies’ proteins.
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The result was a rich, salty liquid which would be strained and stored as fish sauce.
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Chinese fishermen weren’t the only ones to figure out this savory seasoning.
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Ancient Greeks, and later the Romans that conquered them, built their entire cuisine around fish sauce’s strong umami flavor.
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The sauce, which they called garum, traveled with every soldier to the Empire’s front lines.
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And they constructed dozens of fish sauce factories throughout the Mediterranean, each capable of producing thousands of gallons of garum.
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But when the Roman Empire collapsed, so did their condiment business.
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Most Europeans continued to cook without fish sauce for a thousand years, until the Dutch East India Company arrived in Southeast Asia in the early 1600s.
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The Dutch and English exploited this region for countless goods, including barrels of their most common local condiment.
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This familiar, fishy liquid had many names, including “ke-tsiap” and “koe-cheup.” But upon arrival in British ports, its title was bastardized into ketchup, thus beginning Europe’s second wave of fish sauce supremacy.
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European ships supplied ketchup throughout the Western Hemisphere until they were kicked out of Asian trade hubs in the mid-1700s.
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But the public refused to let ketchup go the way of garum.
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A whole crop of British cookbooks emerged with recipes for knockoff ketchups, containing everything from oysters and anchovies to mushrooms and walnuts.
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Soon, ketchup became a catch-all name for any brown sauce.
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And this great ketchup hunt produced some of England’s most enduring condiments, including Worcestershire, A1, and HP sauce.
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But it was a chef across the Atlantic who would introduce a new color to the equation.
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While tomatoes varied in popularity across Europe, American chefs were putting the New World fruit in all kinds of dishes.
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And in 1812, Philadelphian physician and food hobbyist James Mease debuted the first tomato-based ketchup— a thin, watery concoction of tomato pulp, spices, raw shallots, and brandy.
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This was a far-cry from fish sauce, but tomatoes have high levels of glutamate— the same chemical responsible for fish sauce’s rich umami flavor.
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And Mease’s timing was perfect.
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The back half of the 1800s saw a surge in bottled foods, and tomato ketchup was adopted by several burgeoning bottle businesses.
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By the 1870s, most tomato ketchups had dropped the shallots and brandy for sugar, salt, and sodium benzoate— a questionable preservative found in most bottled foods.
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But the most important change to this recipe was yet to come.
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After a slow start selling pickled vegetables, Henry J. Heinz began selling a wide variety of popular ketchups.
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And at the turn of the 20th century, his desire to use healthier, natural ingredients led Heinz to swap the sodium benzoate for riper tomatoes and a huge amount of vinegar.
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The resulting thick, goopy formula was an instant best seller— despite being much harder to get out of the bottle.
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Over the 20th century, this salty red sauce covered the globe— pairing perfectly with the ambassadors of American cuisine.
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Today, 90% of American households have ketchup in their kitchens, and Heinz’s recipe has even become the base for dozens of other sauces and dressings— all descendants of the same fishy family tree.
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