Shadowing Practice: How to Build a Gaming PC the Right Way - Learn English Speaking with Video
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Building a PC may sound scary, but I can assure you it's not a difficult process at all, especially if you watch a step-by-step guide like this one to go ahead and assemble your PC.
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And in this guide, I'm going to show you everything that you need to go ahead and build the system, how to assemble it, and more importantly, share all of my tips
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and tricks I've learned over the past 11 years of being
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a computer technician to make the building process as simple as possible
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so that you don't make the mistakes that usually cause systems to end up in my shop.
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So let's get into it.
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Starting with the three required tools to assemble a PC, which you probably already have around your house, like a full-size Phillips head screwdriver.
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If it has a long neck like this one, that is ideal for reaching those hard-to-reach screws.
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And if it does have a magnetic tip, that is also nice, but it's not required.
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Any Phillips head or PH2 tip will be just fine to go ahead
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and assemble 99% of all the screws inside your system.
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For the 1% of screws that don't work with that, you're going to need some kind of precision tip Phillips head screwdriver as well.
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These are typically pH zero or pH one, but they will work great to go ahead and get that one screw.
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I had this one in a kit, or you could pick up a precision bit kit like this one from iFixit, which I'll have linked down below, along with every tool as well as the parts used in this video.
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Then the last thing you're going to need is a pair of wire cutters
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or a nice pair of scissors that we're going to use to cut through zip ties, but that's pretty much it that's required.
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I like to use a electric screwdriver for assembly.
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This one works great, but it's not required and I probably wouldn't recommend it for beginners.
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And then the one thing though I would recommend
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if you do want to pick it up but it's not required is a magnetic parts map.
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These are great to keep all your screws nice and organized
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so they don't fall on the ground when you're working on everything.
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So definitely a nice thing to have but again not required.
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So with that said let's dive into the components.
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Of which there are eight required components that are needed for every single PC build including your CPU, compatible motherboard, compatible RAM, storage,
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GPU, cooling device that That can either be an air cooler or water cooler, power supply, and case to house everything.
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And all of the components installed in this system today
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that my customer picked out may look different than the ones that you happen to be using.
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For the most part, the overall process of building a PC is about the same for just about any set of hardware that you might use.
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If you are curious about the components being used today that our customer picked out, or maybe you want to follow this guide for yourself to a T and build the exact same system,
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well, everything's based around the brand new AMD Ryzen 7 9850X 3D, the fastest CPU for gaming right now.
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That's going to be installed into the Asus TUF X870E-Plus Wi-Fi 7 motherboard, and we're going to go ahead and pair that up with 32 gigabytes of DDR5,
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as well as a 4 terabyte Western Digital SN8100 PCIe Gen 5 SSD,
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which is one of the fastest SSDs you can currently get at 14,900 megabytes per second write speeds.
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That is absolutely insane.
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Then they go ahead and push the frame rate that our customer needs.
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We have an Asus Prime version of an NVIDIA RTX 5080, which is probably one of the best GPUs you could buy right now.
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5090s don't make sense at all with the current pricing.
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These are still reasonable for where they're at compared to where their MSRP was.
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Our customer said he was able to pick it up for like $150 above, which is a nice little spot.
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then everything's going to be going in to a case i've
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worked in a few times that's recently been updated the corsair frame 4000d this is their new frame version
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which is going to be more modular
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and it's actually a lot easier to work in than the old 4000d
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which was one of the best-selling cases of all time then
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because this case comes with three fans and not four i did go ahead
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and pick our customer up an extra fan
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that we're going to throw in the rear
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that is not normally required a lot of cases will come with a rear fan
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but we're going to need that so we will need that at some point.
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With that said let's go ahead
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and move on to the assembly process starting with motherboard crack
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which is basically the process where I want to go ahead and remove everything off my workbench that I don't need immediately.
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So I'm going to want my motherboard and everything that's going to be installed to it.
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So we're going to want our SSD, CPU, and RAM and I'm actually going to also recommend keep your cooler around just
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because that's a little bit of a pro tip I'm going to mention in just a second.
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But for when it comes to our case as well as our power supply and GPU, we don't need those right now.
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So let's go ahead and slide those off to the side
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because what I'm going to do right now is get my motherboard out of its box.
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And inside your motherboard box, you'll typically find your motherboard in some kind of plastic ESD safe bag right here.
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What we're going to do is pull our motherboard out of that bag, set that off to the side.
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Then what I'm going to recommend that you do, instead of just throwing this into your case right now, we're going to prep the board by sticking the board on
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top of the box just like this as this is going to be a perfect build surface to go ahead
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and prep everything that we need ahead of time.
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So what we're going to do is start with something like our CPU.
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To go ahead and get this installed let's come a little closer
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because to get the CPU in what we're going to need to do
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because this is an AM5 socket is push down on this little lever right here.
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It's going to pull out and then it's going to come up.
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This is going to allow us to go ahead and release the socket cover.
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This is a point where you need to be very careful.
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There are about 1700 gold pins right here.
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If you happen to damage any of them, you can easily basically cause your motherboard to not work the system, to not post or respond like it's supposed to.
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So it's something you're going to have to be very, very careful with.
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While you have that open exposed, grab your CPU.
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It'll be in a clamshell just like this one.
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Then what you're going to do with the CPU in the clamshell is you're going to go ahead
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and open that up again carefully grab the cpu typically by its edges
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so you're going to want to grab the cpu by the
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sides like this then what you're going to do is take
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that cpu you'll find a gold corner on it you're going to go ahead
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and align that with the gold corner on the socket
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then with your cpu grabbing it on either side just like this you're going to take your cpu
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and then just slowly lower it into place no pressure necessary
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it'll just drop right in once your CPU is nice and secure, you can then go ahead and drop the cover that was here previously, and then lower the retention mechanism.
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You may want to hold your motherboard in place, and you'll see that little plastic cover just broke off.
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That's supposed to happen.
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It's not anything wrong, but you're not going to want to throw this away.
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This is actually a really important piece of plastic that's required for warranty.
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When this does come off, go ahead, set this off to the side.
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I like putting it back in my motherboard box just because it is required if you ever have to warranty your motherboard.
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Other than that, our CPU is now officially installed.
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So at this point, let's move on to RAM.
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Now RAM or random access memory is like the short-term memory of your computer.
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It only stays when your computer is powered, but it's incredibly fast.
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So it's super important for things like multitasking and even gaming.
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So to go ahead and get this installed, what you're going to want to do on your motherboard is locate a little diagram.
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Most boards have these these days.
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You'll see in this one it says DIMMs 2
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and DIMM 4 are both going to be what are considered the first or primary slots.
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If you don't see that always check with your motherboard manual to go ahead
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and verify but for the most part it's always slots 2 and 4.
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So we're going to go ahead and undo these little plastic clips.
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Sometimes they'll be on both sides but for this particular motherboard only this side moves.
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Then we're going to want to go ahead and take our DIMMs.
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This is basically the DIMM module itself and we're going to go ahead
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and align it on one side then the other we're not
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going to push down just yet we're going to make sure
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that the little metal notch in the bottom right here aligns
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with the slot on the dim module then with fingers on both sides we're going to go ahead
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and press down equally until we hear two snaps we'll do
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that with our first module then we'll grab our same one
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it's going to be in the same orientation as the other one slide it down
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and then two snaps just like that so with the ram in it's time to finally get our SSD installed.
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We're solid state drive.
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On most motherboards you'll see that there are actually quite a few of M.2 slots.
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If we remove these covers right here that's where we're going to use our small little screwdriver.
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We'll see this motherboard not only has not one, not two, not three, but four M.2 slots available for M.2 SSDs to be installed.
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M.2 is basically the name of the connector that's used on these particular drives to go ahead and be slugged in.
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However, choosing the right slot is very important here because
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if we choose this slot right here
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or this one right here our drive would be capped at about half the speed that we actually paid for.
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The reason for that is there are little diagrams on the board
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which you'll also see in your motherboard manual that says
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that this is a PCIe Gen 4 by 4 slot same thing with this one
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but these two right here are Gen 5 by 4 slots
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which is actually a whole generation newer that actually doubled the amount of speed
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that these drives could run at and especially
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because this is a Gen 5 compatible drive we're going to want to use one of these too
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but as a pro tip for the most part
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if you only have one ssd always install it in the
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first slot this one's always going to be rated for the fastest speeds possible
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so you don't have to worry about not being able to
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get the full speeds out of your drive whatever your motherboard can support
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so we're going to install our drive and that one right there just
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because it is closest to the cpu
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which controls it all you got to do is slot it in push it down
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and it should just lock in
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because a lot of these new motherboards have these automatic of clips that make it very easy to install.
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After that, we can go ahead and take the heat sinks that we removed earlier.
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This one's going to have a little thermal pad on it.
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We're going to have to remove the plastic off of that guy right there.
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Then all we got to do is line this up with the two screw holes, put it down just like that,
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and grab our screwdriver and screw this back down into place just like this.
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And then for this other M.2 heat sink, we're actually not going to go ahead and remove the thermal pads because if we do, we'll expose those and those will actually start falling apart just over time without ever being used
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and we want to save those if our customer ever wants to upgrade his drive
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so let's go ahead and put this guy back in screw it down
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and this will get this ready for whenever a customer wants to add more storage down the road
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if it's pcie gen 5 you can add it in this slot here
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or if it's a gen 4 drive
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or even gen 5 now you may want to run at
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a slower speed it can be in one of these two down here
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and although a motherboard would be considered fully prepped when the CPU, RAM, and storage device are installed.
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There's one extra step I like to do
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because I found it's a great little pro tip to make PC building a lot easier
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because one thing if you don't know is that there's actually mounting hardware right here around the CPU.
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That's to go ahead and mount the cooler.
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However, for the most part, most coolers don't use that stock mounting hardware.
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So at this point, I recommend finding your cooler, opening it up, and finding the manual and confirming
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if they use the stock mounting hardware or something else like Corsair desk
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because if they do you're going to want to remove these screws right now
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while they're very easy to get to and you don't have to worry about possibly losing them inside of your case.
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So we're going to go ahead
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and undo these four screws around the mounting bracket here
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and then we're going to go ahead and pull these two little plastic clips off.
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Highly recommend again just like the socket cover keep these in
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your motherboard box do not throw these away you may need them down the road
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and especially these screws certain coolers will reuse these so don't lose these.
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And with that off, we can now add the mounting screws that Corsair uses for this particular cooler.
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These just screw on.
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They're going to be hand tight.
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So you just screw each of these four into place onto the four little points that we just unscrewed from.
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Those actually are retained there.
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So it's going to be nice and easy.
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And once these are all on, we will finally have a motherboard that's prepped and ready to go and be installed in a case.
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This just makes it a lot easier because this area sometimes a pain to get to.
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So with our motherboard fully prepped now with all the mounting hardware, CPU, RAM, and storage that we need, we could get it installed in our case, but to make life easier,
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I've found that you actually want to prep your case too.
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That means remove any panel that can come off of it.
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That means if it's a top or back side panel, pull those off right now as these love just to end up in the way of being able to assemble your system.
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And the better thing is when you have more open areas, it's easier to get your hands exactly where you need to to screw things in
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or assemble or plug something in that may be difficult to get to.
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Another thing you always want to check here
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that could save you a lot of time
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and a big headache is make sure that you have all of your standoffs installed.
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Most cases will have a little diagram that say A, M, I, and E for ATX, MATX, ITX, and EATX, depending on the size of your motherboard.
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But you just want to make sure that all of these line up with the holes on your motherboard.
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Because you don't want one of these standoffs to either be missing
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so your board doesn't mount properly or in a wrong location
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that ends up in the middle of your board shorting something out on the back side
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so with that good we can now get our motherboard installed
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when handling the motherboard i always recommend handling it by the
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outside being very careful of the fragile gold pins at the bottom
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and i also like to hold it by the heatsink these are usually very overbuilt
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and can handle a lot of force
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when we're putting this in we're going to want to align
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it with all the standoffs really looking for the main center one
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that one's actually got a little bit of a peg
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so it sticks off a little further
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so what we're going to do is slowly slide our board in place
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and we're going to align it with that center peg and
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that will actually support it momentarily until we can get our screws
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which you will typically find in your case's accessory box in here we should see
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that we got a bunch of different screws
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but of the screws in there the ones we want look just like this they're the only ones
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that will actually fit in the standoffs properly and
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if you don't sure exactly which ones to use go ahead
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and check the manual
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that came with your case for the most part though these
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are typically always going to be a phillips head screw with
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a wide flange on the top this way it actually can create a nice secure fit
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and hold the motherboard in place so we're going to go ahead
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and put all these in there are typically nine screws on most motherboards only eight
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if your motherboard uses one of those center pegs
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that do stick out quite a bit and don't have a screw hole
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that you're going to have to install three up top three in the middle
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and three on the bottom so we're going to go ahead
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and tighten each of those down you don't have to tighten
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them very tight at all just until you get a little bit of feedback go ahead
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and release and you don't have to worry about over tightening
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or possibly damaging something in the process this is also a great time
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if you are having any kind of misalignments to go ahead
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and make any adjustments if you didn't mount the board properly
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but for the most part if you did align it on that center peg you shouldn't have to worry at all
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so we're going to go ahead and get all of these screws into place
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if you do want to do it properly i usually recommend
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doing the very center one first then go from the top left corner just
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because that one really holds the io shield in place
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and then go down to the bottom right just to make sure everything's aligning exactly how it's supposed to after
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that i kind of go in a cross pattern just to make sure
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that everything is going to be tightened to spec so that we don't have anything loose at all.
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So with the motherboard now
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and you can actually kind of pick your own adventure on how you want to assemble the rest of the system.
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You can go a bunch of different routes and come out with the same result.
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However, I found that the easiest and best technique to go ahead
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and follow at this point is a technique I call pre-wiring, which is one of my favorite little pro tips where before you go ahead and install any of your other components,
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you come around back and locate what are called your front panel connections.
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These are going to be all the cables required to go ahead
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and make the front panel headers up front work
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that includes your power button your hd audio that's going to
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be the audio connector for your 3.5 millimeter headphone jack your usb 3.0s
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and your usb type c these are going to all have their own connection to go ahead
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and plug into your motherboard and we're going to go ahead
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and route these from the back side up to the front side of where they need to go
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so starting with the hd audio or audio connector this one is labeled
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and we're going to go ahead
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and route this all the way on the far side to
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the back of the case through the bottom up through the front where there's actually a little pass through
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and leave it hanging around there then we're going to go
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to the next one this is going to be the front
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panel header f panel header sometimes this will be separated into
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a bunch of different little connectors this case has it combined we're going to go ahead
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and put this on the opposite side that's almost always where that's located
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and push that right up then we're going to have two more cables.
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We're going to have our big fat one that's going to be for the USB 3.0
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and this little skinny one that happens to be for the USB type C that's up front.
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For these are typically going to be located around the middle of your motherboard.
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So we're going to go ahead and pull those up just like that.
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Then we can go ahead and flip this case around and start plugging these particular connectors in.
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Like I said, the HD audio or audio connector is going to be in that far left.
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It's actually labeled on the motherboard itself.
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So we're going to go ahead and push that through, pull the excess cable back through there then we'll move to
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our front panel header this one's also going to be in
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the far right it's labeled f panel on the motherboard as well
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and we're going to go ahead and push that guy through then
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when it comes to the usb 3.0 header that's this one
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right here we're going to want to be very careful you'll notice
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that on one side there's actually a little bit of a lip
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or a little bit of a like a latch right there
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so it's kind of thick part right there
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that sticks out that's going to align with the little cutout
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on the usb 3.0 header we're going We're going to go ahead and put our cable there, line it like that, and push it through.
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Then when it comes to the cable for our USB Type-C, this is the USB 3.2 Gen 2, we're going to notice there's a thicker side and a thinner side.
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The thicker side for most motherboards goes down, like in our case, where it's going to snap that into place.
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And there we go.
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We got all of our front panel headers wired up.
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But we aren't done with pre-wiring the system just yet
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because this is actually a perfect time to also wire up any pre-installed fans
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which will typically have one
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or two connectors usually a PWM fan connector that's this little
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four pin connector right here this can be plugged into any
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of the fan headers on the motherboard most motherboards have a bunch
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and then this cable right here is what's called an ARGB cable
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so it's got a three pin ARGB connector this can be
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plugged into any of the ARGB headers on the motherboard for
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this system there are plenty of both along the bottom as well as up on the top right.
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So for us we're just going to plug these in on the bottom just
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because I do like these to always be out of the way.
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For fan headers one thing that's really important to note is that there is this little guide right here.
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This aligns with a little plastic piece on the bottom of the fan header
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so go ahead and just slide that right on and then
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when it comes to the ARGB connection just now there's a single
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and then two on the other side
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so you're going to want to line the single up to go ahead
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and make sure that's good and then the other two should align perfectly and you can slide your connector right on.
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Then because we did have that one extra fan in the back
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that we need to still add let's get
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that taken care of by taking this little fan out of the box
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and mounting it in the back of the case with the pretty side of the fan
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or the side of the fan that you can actually see being visible with the motor side going towards the back.
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This way we know
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that we're actually going to be blowing the air from the
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front this side out through the back of the case as an exhaust which is what we want.
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Before we actually put
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that down I'm actually going to route the cable through the back here just
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so it's out of the way and I don't have to try to have to fiddle with it later.
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So I'm just going to go ahead and wrap that cable through the back, pull the fan nice and tight, and then align it where I want it.
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Then with the included screws, these are fan screws, they're going to be a little thicker than your normal like motherboard screws.
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We're going to go ahead and secure this in place.
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It's typically four screws and
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if you do it in a cross pattern it's usually easiest to make sure you align it exactly how you want it.
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And a lot of times these are adjustable too so
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if you need the fan to sit higher or lower you can do that
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but for the most part I usually aim for the middle
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as I find that's the best location to go ahead and mount the fan.
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Then what we're going to want to do is take the wire
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that came with that fan
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and route it back down through the front side of the case
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and plug that in up front right next to the other fan connector that we plugged in previously.
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So with that rear fan now wired up
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and everything else in the case wired up
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so far it's now time to go ahead
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and get out our power supply and what we're going to do
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because this is what's called a fully modular power supply
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which basically just means
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that the power supplies cables are not permanently attached to the power supply itself like some power supplies will be.
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Instead it has this modular interface where you actually get separate cables
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that plug in on one side here and then the other side into your motherboard or other PC components.
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And this is actually a great time to figure out what cables you actually need
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because you don't need all of them nor do you need to plug in all of them
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because if you do what's going to end up happening is you're going to have a bunch of extra cables
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that are going to get in the way of nice clean cable management.
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So for us, the things I know we need is a 24-pin power supply ATX connector.
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That's this guy right here that we're going to need.
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Then I know I'm going to need two what are called 8-pin EPS or 8-pin CPU power connectors.
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I have those two right here.
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They're actually labeled CPU for this particular power supply and I got another one right here as well.
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and then the last thing I'm going to need is the power cable for my GPU.
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In our case
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because we have an RTX 5080 we're going to need the 12 plus 4 pin power supply connector
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which is right here that we're going to use.
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Depending on your GPU you may be using a normal PCIe connection but for us this is the cable that we'll need.
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So we're only going to need these four cables everything else we can leave in the box but don't throw them away.
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And then for any modular power supply cables
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that you don't end up needing
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or needing to be used well just hold on to these because you may need them down the road.
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The reason why is that these are all proprietary
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which means you can't just easily get these off the shelf if you need them.
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They're specific to your exact power supply so make sure you hold on to these just in case you plan on upgrading.
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So I'm just going to undo all the twist ties on these cables right here just
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so we can get them nice and free.
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Then to continue the pre-wiring process what I found is
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that the best way to plug in these cables is to take all your cables
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and plug them in on the front side first.
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So we're going to first take our 24 pin.
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That's this connector right here and align it with the 24 pin right here.
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That's the connector that is the main power connector on your motherboard.
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What we're going to do is go ahead and line
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that up and go ahead and just give it a nice firm push until we hear it click into place.
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Then we're going to go ahead and proceed and do the same thing with our CPU connector.
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So this guy's going to be right here.
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So we're going to go ahead and take this.
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We'll see the split end.
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The one that can be split in the two is the one that's going to go onto our actual motherboard.
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They are keyed so you can't really mess it up.
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Then we're going to go ahead and plug that in to the first one just like that.
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It'll snap into place.
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Then we'll do the exact same thing with our next one.
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Same thing, our eight pin connector, top left hand side, leave those there.
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Then when it comes to our 12 plus four pin connector, what I'm going to do for now is I'm actually going to leave these off to the side.
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So what I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead
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and route this just through the bottom where I think it's going to want to go
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and I'm going to leave this up front.
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Now that I've gotten everything plugged in right there
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all I got to do now is route the cables how I want them.
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For the 24 pin I'm going to push them back through this area right here
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and then pull them through from the back side this way I can kind of keep it nice
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and organized so I get some really nice clean cable runs
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so that if I adjust these combs right here it'll look nice
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and smooth same exact thing
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when it comes to the eight pin connectors i'm going to run both these now back
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and up through these little cutouts right here
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which are designed to go ahead and route the cables down to our power supply
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which we'll install in just a second speaking of
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that let's go ahead and rotate this system now around
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because this is the next part of the pre-wiring process we're going to want to take all these cables
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that we went ahead and just plugged in and
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that we routed through the back and we're going to go ahead
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and now start plugging them into the modular interface on the back of our power supply
390
so you'll see we have all the connectors
391
that we need right here i'm going to zoom you guys in just a little bit
392
so you guys can see a better angle of all this
393
then what we're going to do is right here is we're going to plug in all of our connectors
394
so we're going to look for the ones for our atx 24 pin
395
so there's going to be a half split connector here and then the other half will get connected
396
right here we're going to go ahead
397
and plug those two in followed by our two eight pin connectors you'll see an area
398
that says cpu slash pcie we're going to take advantage of
399
those two as well we're going to put them on the
400
far ones as well just to kind of make it easier
401
for routing we're going to go all the way over here
402
and then what we're going to do is also find our 12 2x6 connector 12 volt 2x6 connector for a GPU.
403
Go ahead and plug that in to the power supply as well.
404
Now that everything's plugged into our power supply, what we're going to do now that we kind of have a little bit of routing already set up,
405
we're going to go ahead and lift all the extra cables out of the way and slide our power supply into place.
406
Main thing here that you want to do, make sure your fan is down.
407
It's very rare where you ever want your fan to be up
408
because what happens
409
if you put it up you can actually end up sucking
410
a lot of air out of the system from away from
411
components like your gpu rather than just taking fresh air for the power supply
412
that gets its own isolated bottom chamber environment so with
413
that now installed we're going to rotate the system
414
and we're going to go ahead and get this power supply screwed down
415
so we're going to align it exactly how we want it then we're going to actually notice
416
that there are some pre-installed screws with this particular case
417
so we're going to go ahead and use these thumb screws to go ahead
418
and lock it down
419
and then I'm going to add two more screws after this just to make it even more secure
420
because although those should be enough you typically want four screws for your power supply
421
and the screws you want to be using here are actually found in your power supply box
422
so just keep that in mind so we're just going to go ahead
423
and get those installed right there on both sides and that will lock our power supply
424
into place and while we're here this is actually a great time to do a little bit of cable management
425
because at this point we have most of the wires installed
426
so what we're going to do is group the cables up wherever we can
427
and then what we're going to do is route these in the little channels
428
that are given for instance our eight pin connectors typically there's
429
a routing channel along the far side of the case in this case there are actually some cable straps
430
that we're going to go ahead and take advantage of.
431
So we're just going to squeeze our cables into those and then lock those down so they don't move.
432
Then we'll do the same thing.
433
We'll pull them down a little bit, do the ones on the bottom as well.
434
So that locks those into place like that.
435
That already cleared up a lot of the cable management.
436
There's actually one more on the bottom I can take advantage of.
437
So I'm going to go ahead and do that.
438
Then we can do the same thing with all of our other cables.
439
We really just want to bunch and take advantage of any built-in cable management.
440
In our case, we're going to do our 24 pin as well as we're
441
going to pull up our USB type C connector as well as the USB 3.0
442
and we're going to pull these all up into this velcro strap tape
443
that down basically and then we're going to do the same thing right here what
444
that does is that allows us to have most of the cable management all done
445
and the entire system wired up for the most part at
446
least like 95% of the way complete before we add any of the bulky components
447
and speaking of bulky components it's time to add our cooler luckily we already did all the mounting hardware
448
that we need on the cpu
449
so all we got to do is come up with a
450
plan of where we want it installed in our case for
451
most cases you always want to put your ai o up top the reason for this is
452
that you always want your radiator above your pump
453
which is typically on the cpu itself the reason for
454
that is that you never have to worry about your pump possibly running dry when evaporation does eventually take place.
455
You can put it on the front or the side back panel if you'd like.
456
Just never put the radiator down below.
457
That will end very very bad.
458
But for the most part just a good rule of thumb put it up top.
459
It's usually the best location for it.
460
With that said our cooler does require a little more prep to go ahead and get installed.
461
What you're going to usually find is
462
that you're going to have your fans often separately as well as some extra mounting brackets
463
and hardware that we're going to need.
464
This is going to be the accessory screws things like that.
465
So we're going to pull all that out out of this box so that we can get this all nice and organized.
466
Once we have all that out you'll typically see the actual AIO itself.
467
So you have the radiator that's what's in this white box right here
468
and then you'll have your pump block which is this guy right here.
469
We're going to leave this part in the plastic right now
470
but we do need to expose the radiator as we need to install our fans on the radiator
471
and while we do this we need to think about how we want these oriented
472
because the thing is we don't want to see these wires
473
but we also have to think about where do we want
474
the tubes to go in our case i want my tubes on the far right side
475
and then coming down over to the cpu water block you do this way they'll kind of get too long
476
and hit your gpu so you typically want to go this way
477
so what that means is we're going to end up flipping this radiator where the tubes are over here
478
so if we do that the tubes are going to have to be on this side
479
which means this is actually going to be flipped
480
so this the cables being towards us are actually going to be away from us
481
which is what we want to do this
482
when we get these installed we can go ahead
483
and screw them in but before I'm going to go ahead
484
and make sure I have them all wired up too these are daisy chainable fans
485
which means I'm going to want to add each one on the little daisy chain loop
486
so you'll have one
487
that has the main wire coming off this this is going to go into the motherboard
488
that comes into this connector right here then it goes out into this connector right here into the secondary fan
489
and then goes into this connector into the third fan.
490
It's detailed in Corsair's guide but you can just go ahead and look at that.
491
It's very simple.
492
They basically all tie together.
493
This way there's only one wire going to the motherboard of all this little junk instead of one for each fan.
494
So the fan's wired up.
495
We now need to go ahead and lock them down with the 12 included screws.
496
So let's go ahead and make sure
497
that we align them with the holes on the radiator and then just start getting them mounted down.
498
I recommend doing this in kind of a diagonal pattern the reason you do
499
that is to just make sure
500
that you're not tightening them too far before you actually align them properly
501
and i would recommend doing maybe one or two in each fan just
502
so they kind of adjust each other that's the best way i found to do this
503
so go ahead and line those up go ahead
504
and screw it down and get them locked down so now
505
that we have all of our fans on the radiator we can go ahead
506
and now slide it into place up top aligning it with
507
the screw holes up here then we're going to need four of these screw washer combos
508
that we went ahead and put together to lock in the four corners of the radiator.
509
So we're going to go ahead
510
and do one do the opposite corner directly after this will align everything exactly where we want it
511
and go ahead and slide the radiator down just so that the screw holes line up and lock it down into place.
512
And using these washers is actually super important.
513
The reason for that is that if you don't use them
514
sometimes although this radiator will probably hold it's not nearly as secure
515
because you don't have that little flange to go ahead
516
and make sure that it holds on without possibly coming loose
517
and slipping through which i have seen especially when systems get shipped
518
and once we get our 12th screw installed just like
519
that this radiator isn't going anywhere now before we go ahead
520
and mount the cpu water block onto the cpu we need to do a few things first one of
521
which happens to be
522
that we need to grab the fan cable that's coming off
523
these three fans we need to run it back the reason we want to do this is
524
that we want to get it out of the way now before we have more bulk in the way
525
so we're going to go ahead and run
526
that up through the top of the case out the back
527
and then we're going to go ahead
528
and figure out one of the fan headers up top
529
that we want to use
530
so typically you're going to have a cpu fan header you're
531
going to have a cpu optional header you'll have some regular system fan headers as well.
532
For these ones, you don't really want to do the CPU fan header because that one's typically monitored.
533
I usually recommend to put the pump on that one just
534
because it's a lot easier to detect failure that way rather than the fans, which you can typically see.
535
So we're going to go ahead and plug that in.
536
The header labeled CPU optional or OPT.
537
Then one more thing that does have to change
538
when it comes to this AIO before we install it is the fact
539
that right now the mounting hardware installed is for Intel.
540
That's this big wide format right here.
541
So we need to slide this bracket off and we need to replace it with the one designed for AMD.
542
So we're just going to slide that into place.
543
It'll lock down with that little click.
544
And now at this point, what we can do is with the pump cap up with our fan wire, this is going to be the pump wire.
545
We're going to go ahead and mount this directly onto the CPU.
546
There's pre-applied thermal paste so we don't have to worry about that.
547
We'll just slide it on, push it down, then we're going to go ahead
548
and find the thumb nuts that came with the actual AIO
549
and we're going to use those to go ahead and make sure it's nice and secure.
550
These have a little spring on them so you can't really over tighten them.
551
So what we're going to do is grab our screwdriver.
552
You can do these by hand but it's a lot easier
553
if you have a screwdriver just to reach
554
and we're going to go ahead
555
and do one corner about halfway then we're going to go
556
down to the opposite corner this way it doesn't accidentally push too much pressure on one side of the processor
557
and go ahead and tighten
558
that one we're going to go all the way down there
559
then we're going to go back up to the top
560
and we're going to do the top right like this let
561
that go all the way down and then finally the bottom left
562
and we'll go all the way down one more time
563
and then what we'll do is we'll go back to the top left
564
that we only tightened about 50% and finish tightening that up.
565
That will get our CPU cooler nice and secure on our processor.
566
And all we got to do now is plug in this little fan header
567
and run it up and back through the back of the case, just like we did with the other fans.
568
We can then take it back and bring it right over to that CPU fan header we were talking about earlier.
569
Just like that.
570
And there we go.
571
Now we got everything wired up when it comes to our AIO.
572
Up here in the top, upright of the case.
573
It might be easier to see from a top-down perspective of exactly where I plugged everything in.
574
There's the two headers right there.
575
One of them is a CPU fan header.
576
One of them is a CPU optional header.
577
Both of those are plugged in exactly one with the CPU fan header for the pump
578
and the other for the three fans, which is going to give us all the power, the in connection we need.
579
So with our AIO in, all we got to do now is take care of our GPU
580
and if your gpu has plastic on like this one make sure you take that off
581
because not only will this sometimes melt depending on your card sometimes the plastic is put in places
582
that if you don't take it off will actually hurt performance
583
because it can affect the ability for the card to properly breathe
584
so let's pull all this plastic right off the card should
585
come off pretty easily it's done designed to be pulled off
586
and once you have all
587
that off make sure you get the ones off the little
588
fan hubs as well there's usually a sticker on each one
589
and then lastly the other one you're going to want to
590
take care of is on the PCIe slot there's this little cover expose
591
that guy right there
592
and then you're also going to want to remove the little caps on the GPU before you put it in
593
as sometimes these will get caught during installation with the actual PCIe slot covers
594
so I recommend pulling those off just so you don't have a hazard
595
or any possibility of get those getting in the way at least until you put the card in
596
and get it installed so to go ahead
597
and get it installed we also have to do one more
598
thing right now there actually are what are called pcie slot covers in place these are designed to prevent dust
599
and your fingers from basically getting inside the system
600
when you don't want anybody to basically be sticking anything right
601
here next to the motherboard what we need to do is actually free up two of those
602
so that we can install our gpu
603
so to do that we need to actually go ahead
604
and grab our screwdriver come around back
605
and undo two of these little screws right here these are thumb screws
606
but often they are too tight for your thumbs
607
so you're going to have to use a screwdriver to go ahead
608
and get them undone then you're going to remove these two
609
little brackets right here these are no longer going to be
610
used you could throw them away you're probably never going to use them again especially
611
because they're only two slots and
612
if you're using a standard size atx motherboard it'll always be the second
613
and third slot that you're going to want to remove as long as you're working with a two slot standard card.
614
So with that said, this means we can finally get our GPU installed, which is actually a lot easier than you might think.
615
All you got to do is align your card at 90 degrees, go ahead and bring the card in, align it with the slot so the gold pins are perfectly in the slot.
616
Then all you got to do is just give it a nice solid push and you'll notice that when it does, the little clip on the back of the card will push up
617
and if you look at
618
that what are called the ears of the card got a
619
line on the PCIe slot cover they'll actually sit nice and flush.
620
Once that's there you're going to want to add those two screws back to this position.
621
This is what's going to go ahead and hold the card in place.
622
You can sometimes lift it up just a little bit
623
when you put these in to give it a little bit of a higher sitting position
624
and then once you get the first one in it should be pretty secure
625
but we'll add the second one just to go ahead and make sure that it's not going anywhere.
626
And just like that, our card is now installed and all we got to do now is add some power to it.
627
So the 12 plus four pin, it's really easy.
628
There's a clip on one side.
629
You're going to want to align that with the connector.
630
On the top of the connector on one side, you'll see that it has like four pins on the bottom and then the other side up top, it's got this little like ridge that aligns with the clip.
631
So you're just going to go ahead and take the connector and push it into place and it will lock in.
632
You'll hear a little click and that will make sure that you know it's secure.
633
We can run the rest of the slack back through the back of the case so it's out of the way.
634
So the GPU now plugged in and installed
635
that pretty much wraps up every component
636
that needs to be installed in the system
637
and what I would recommend at this point is for you to go ahead
638
and clean up your cables if you have any extra slack.
639
One of the benefits of pre-wiring like the way we did is
640
that we were able to take care of most of the cable management ahead of time by tying things down
641
but if you do find any clumps like this that are a little too big, you could take something like a zip tie and go ahead and just grab them together, round them up, put a zip tie,
642
and hold it nice and secure.
643
Keep everything nice and tidy.
644
This way you can keep your cable runs a little smoother and if there's any areas that you want to tighten up, like I did with this little fan connector right here, I don't think I showed that on camera,
645
to go and keep things nice and tight.
646
Then when you do have these little extra tabs at the end, that's where your side cutters or scissors come into play to chop off the excess of the plastic.
647
But as our cable management is pretty much already wrapped up, that was the big benefit of pre-wiring,
648
like I said, where you don't have to really do much because we already routed these cables earlier on in the process, we can pretty much at this point go and get the system fired up.
649
But first we need to go ahead and close up our backside panel along with that top that we removed earlier, which we could slide into place along with the lower mesh side panel.
650
So all we got to do now is grab a mouse monitor
651
and keyboard and then where a lot of people make mistake is how they plug their system in.
652
So we're going to plug in our mouse receiver into one of the USBs along with our keyboard.
653
This really doesn't matter all that much.
654
Then what does matter is we want to make sure
655
that you do not use the built-in HDMI on your motherboard right there.
656
That's going to use the internal graphics on the CPU rather than the GPU that you paid for.
657
So we're going to go ahead
658
and plug in our display port right here it doesn't really matter
659
which one we use and then we're going to grab our power cable
660
and plug that into the bottom here when we do
661
that we also want to make sure
662
that we actually have our power switch on because
663
if that's off it will not work
664
and your power button will definitely not work so let's switch
665
that on because this way now that we got the system wired up it means
666
that we can go down to the power button and get it fired up which we'll see the fans kick on.
667
All of them appear to be running just fine.
668
And on most motherboards these days, you'll see a series of diagnostic LEDs that should cycle.
669
But as they go through, eventually your system should post, which is that power on self test the computer runs on every single startup.
670
And when it does pass, you should get a little message letting you know a new CPU has been installed into the motherboard.
671
So if we just press Y to go ahead and reset FTPM, which doesn't really matter in our circumstance or yours I can almost guarantee
672
if it's a brand new build this way we should see the PC restart
673
and post where we'll actually get a notification letting us know
674
that all of our devices show up we'll see our CPU
675
looks right our total memory is 32,000 megabytes that's 32 gigabytes
676
we'll see we have two keyboards two mice I think that's just
677
because of the mouse and keyboard hubs
678
and devices detected western digital black four terabyte or 4,000 gigabytes
679
so at this point it just tells us
680
that we have a new CPU installed all we got to do is press F1 to enter the BIOS screen, which is basically the back end of your computer,
681
where again, you can make sure everything is set to how you want it to be.
682
So at this point, if you're getting a display out and all of your hardware happens to be recognized, well, congratulations, your PC is now assembled, but you're not done just yet.
683
Because in order to get the performance that you want and to be able to use the device, you need to make a couple adjustments in the BIOS.
684
And of course, you're going to want to install an operating system.
685
So first, let's start with the BIOS.
686
The first thing you're going to want to enable is you're
687
going to want to look for a setting either called Expo or XMP.
688
That stands for the Extreme Profiles for Overclocking or Extreme Memory Profiles, which basically allow you to get the full performance out of your RAM.
689
See, out of the box, RAM runs at something called JDAC, which is like a stock speed set by the Joint Electron Device Engineering Council,
690
which was basically set up to make memory as compatible as possible.
691
So this way basically they give a set speed standard
692
that memory modules need to be able to run at on pretty much any given motherboard.
693
However memory manufacturers found faster ways so to go and do
694
that they've created basically these expo or xmp profiles
695
that are automatically added to the modules you just have to enable them which we can do right now.
696
So we're going to go ahead and make sure that's set to enable
697
and then the other thing we need to make sure is enabled is something at the top called resizable bar.
698
Mine was automatically turned on but just make sure
699
that it does say on that will make sure
700
that you're getting the full connection link between your cpu and gpu
701
because it basically lets your cpu access the full amount of vram on your gpu rather than the smaller chunks
702
that used to be required
703
which can actually affect performance up to like 25 depending on the particular game
704
so yeah make sure that's enabled it's free fps after
705
that you're going to need to install an operating system whatever
706
you want to install you can basically put on your machine
707
if it's windows 10 windows 11 or maybe even Windows 7 or a Linux distro, go for it.
708
But for me, I'm going to go ahead and show you how to install Windows 11 Home as our customer requested that.
709
In order to go ahead and do that, you're going to need a USB installation media.
710
You can create these very easily.
711
You just need a flash drive, typically over 8 gigabytes in size and access to a computer that has an internet connection.
712
To go ahead and create that, you go to Microsoft's website, you download the tool, follow the steps, plug your flash drive in, and it does all the work for you.
713
I have a full video guide above me
714
that you guys can check out where I've walked over it actually a few different times at this point.
715
So you should be able to go ahead and get that taken care of.
716
Once you have that, all you got to do is take your flash drive, plug that into the back of your computer on any USB 3.0 header.
717
The faster the port, actually the better.
718
Then at that point, all we're going to do is come into here and click the save and exit button.
719
That's going to go ahead and save all the things that we just made.
720
That's going to be the expo profile that we just changed.
721
That's going to get saved.
722
And then we'll also have that save for the making sure that resizable bar is on.
723
So now that both those are enabled, when this PC restarts, because this is the only technical bootable device, this system, when it restarts,
724
instead of going directly to the BIOS like it probably did before, we will see that the system eventually will load into a Windows installation screen.
725
So let's just give it a minute.
726
And sometimes it will take a little bit of extra time
727
when you do change something like the Expo profile for the memory training process to go ahead and restart.
728
So once we're here, all we're going to do is walk through the settings, select our language that we're in the US.
729
We're going to install Windows, agree to the term, click next.
730
At that point, it's going to ask for a product key.
731
If you have a Windows 11 product key, type it in now.
732
It'll make it nice and easy.
733
If you're activating from a previous install, like our customer is going to, we're just going to go ahead and click, I don't have a product key right now.
734
And this will go ahead
735
and take us to the next screen where we can go ahead and choose our particular operating system.
736
As our customer wants to go to Windows 11 Home, we're going to select that, but you could select the Pro Edition if you would prefer to have those settings as well.
737
So click Next, and at this point, we'll be taken to the agreement terms, and we'll accept.
738
And at that point, our drive should show up.
739
We should see that we have an option of where we want to install it.
740
Right now, we see two devices, this 0 and disk 1.
741
Disk 0 is going to be our primary drive.
742
We'll see that's the 3.6 terabytes that's the four terabyte drive
743
that we installed it's just they calculate the numbers different by 10 rather than the eight bits
744
that are typically used for storage um that's why it's labeled
745
that way and then the disk one is our installation meeting we're not going to use
746
that so we're going to select the unallocated space click next
747
and then at that point we can go ahead and click install
748
and let the windows 11 install process do the rest once
749
the installation finishes you'll be taken to a screen just like this
750
which is the standard windows startup screen all you're going to do in here now is go ahead
751
and select your country language walk through the procedure of logging
752
into your microsoft account connect up to your wi-fi network
753
and skip all the stuff
754
that microsoft's trying to sell you you don't need to sign up for any of
755
that right now you can do that all later
756
if you want to none of them are typically deals at all
757
so just go ahead and skip over those
758
and proceed through all the settings once complete you'll be taken
759
to your desktop ready for you to use your system
760
or almost ready because there's a couple things you still need to do and that's to update the drivers for your system.
761
First, we're going to need to do our motherboard drivers, then our GPU drivers.
762
For motherboard drivers, there's a couple different ways to do it.
763
You can either go to find your motherboard's website and download the drivers there, or for ASUS boards, you can use Driver Hub.
764
For MSI boards, you can use MSI Center or Gigabyte boards, you can use the Gigabyte Control Center.
765
They're not the best applications out there, but they're very easy to install your drivers and you can remove them after.
766
So we're going to use the driver hub from asus today
767
because we do have an asus motherboard this will go ahead
768
and download the tool on there and then open up a website
769
that will automatically detect all the drivers that we are currently missing
770
and allow us to go ahead
771
and have get those installed automatically without having to do a lot of extra steps it's very simple all automated
772
which is really nice in the case of this system we'll see
773
that we're missing the chipset driver bluetooth driver audio driver
774
LAN driver and the UCM driver so we're going to go ahead
775
and download all of those and
776
if you're wondering why I always start with drivers first well it's
777
because drivers are a piece of software
778
that tell windows how to best utilize all of your hardware
779
think of it like an instruction manual telling windows how to
780
best utilize all of your hardware as well as what they
781
are in the first place it basically identifies them too this way all your devices
782
that you have internally as as there's actually a lot of devices built onto your motherboard,
783
like Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, LAN, as well as things like USB controllers are all built on.
784
Those are all things that have to be recognized by Windows.
785
And although Windows can pick up a lot of those automatically through Windows Update, a lot of the registry that it basically builds off of, it's not up to date.
786
So by going through Asus, we can ensure that we have the latest version installed.
787
Once all complete, we can go ahead and restart the PC to ensure they install properly.
788
And we're not done just yet because we also need to install the drivers for our GPU, which might be even more important just because GPUs are
789
so proprietary and updated so often with updates coming out every couple of weeks.
790
So we're going to download the NVIDIA app because we have an NVIDIA GPU.
791
If we have AMD, I would download AMD Adrenaline.
792
So we're going to go ahead and come on to NVIDIA's website, get that downloaded.
793
Then we're going to go ahead and open up the NVIDIA app.
794
And in here, we're going to make sure that we select the game ready driver.
795
and this will allow us to automatically install the latest version of the driver for our GPU.
796
And this is also a great way to make sure
797
that you can always check if your GPU driver is up to date
798
so you keep your system up to date and running at its peak speed.
799
So with that now installed, not only do we have a PC that's fully assembled at this point, but one that can actually be used because we have the drivers
800
that tell Windows how to best utilize all of our customers' hardware that we put inside of this system.
801
With that said, that means our customer can finally download the apps
802
and games that he wants or whatever you guys want to install on your own system for yourself.
803
And one of those apps that you probably should download right away is some kind of tool to control your RGB.
804
Definitely something to take care of first.
805
For instance, if you want to be able to control the RGB on those front fans, the only way to do that is with an application.
806
In the case of Asus, you could use something like Armory Crate.
807
I know a lot of people don't like Armory Crate just because it is pretty bloated.
808
So you could use a third-party tool like SignalRGB if you want to use something different.
809
So with that said, that's pretty much it when it comes to PC building.
810
It's not very difficult.
811
It's really just about taking your time and following the steps.
812
It's eight components that you have to put together, plus Windows if you've got to get that installed.
813
And at that point, it's pretty much it.
814
So hopefully you guys enjoyed this video.
815
If you did, make sure you give it a like.
816
If you have comments or questions that you guys want to leave down below.
817
I'll make sure to be there and other members of the community will be there to help you too.
818
And if you guys want to see more videos like this, make sure you subscribe and I'll get this system over to our customer and I'll see you guys in the next one.
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Vocabulary and speaking notes for this lesson
This B2 speaking lesson is built on the video “How to Build a Gaming PC the Right Way”. The speaker keeps coming back to these words: ahead, motherboard, fan. This video has 818 sentences and 11247 words to shadow. The speech runs for 49:43. The speaker talks fast, about 226 words per minute, so expect linked and reduced sounds. 87% of the words are among the 3,000 most common in English, so the vocabulary is easy to follow.
Key vocabulary in this video
The 15 most advanced words in the video, with pronunciation and meaning:
| Word | Pronunciation | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| motherboard noun | /ˈmʌðɚˌbɔɹd/ | The primary circuit board of a personal computer, containing the circuitry for the central processing unit, keyboard, mouse and monitor, together with slots… |
| connector noun | /kəˈnɛktɚ/ | One who connects; a networker. |
| plug noun | /plʌɡ/ | A pronged connecting device which fits into a mating socket, especially an electrical one. |
| header noun | /ˈhɛdɚ/ | The upper portion of a page (or other) layout. |
| install verb | /ɪnˈstɔl/ | To connect, set up or prepare something for use |
| align verb | /əˈlaɪn/ | To form a line; to fall into line. |
| slot noun | /slɑt/ | A narrow depression, perforation, or aperture; especially, one for the reception of a piece fitting or sliding into it. |
| radiator noun | /ˈɹej.di(j)ˌej.tɚ/ | Anything which radiates or emits rays. |
| tighten verb | /ˈtaɪ.tən/ | To make tighter. |
| screwdriver noun | /ˈskɹuˌdɹaɪvɚ/ | A hand tool or power tool which engages with the head of a screw and allows torque to be applied to turn the screw, thus driving it in or loosening it. |
| assemble verb | /əˈsɛm.bəl/ | To put together. |
| modular adjective | /ˈmɑd͡ʒəlɚ/ | Consisting of separate modules; especially where each module performs or fulfills some specified function and could be replaced by a similar module for the… |
| restart verb | /ˈɹiːˌstɑɹt/ | To start again. |
| module noun | /ˈmɑd͡ʒul/ | A self-contained component of a system, often interchangeable, which has a well-defined interface to the other components. |
| installation noun | /ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/ | An act of installing. |
Phrasal verbs you will hear
| Word | Pronunciation | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| go ahead verb | /ˌɡoʊ əˈhɛd/ | To proceed with; to begin. |
| come off verb | To become detached. | |
| end up verb | To bring to a conclusion. | |
| come around verb | /kʌ.məˈɹaʊnd/ | To change one's mind, especially to begin to agree or appreciate what one was reluctant to accept at first. |
| figure out verb | To come to understand; to discover or find a solution; to deduce. | |
| open up verb | To open. | |
| pick out verb | To remove by picking. | |
| pick up verb | To lift; to grasp and raise. |
Grammar in this video
The structures the speaker uses most, with the exact words from the video:
| Structure | In the video |
|---|---|
| Conditional sentences if + clause, will/would + verb — a condition and its result | if we do, we'll expose · if you don't take it off will actually · if that's off it will not |
| Passive voice be + past participle — the focus is on what happens, not who does it | are needed · be installed · been updated |
| Relative clauses who / which + clause — extra information about a person or thing | above, which is · wiring, which is · exhaust which is |
| Present perfect have/has + past participle — a past action that still matters now | I've learned · I've found · I've gotten |
Pronunciation to watch
The speaker uses 317 contractions and reduced forms, such as we're, you're, don't. Say them the short way, as you hear them.
- The “th” sounds: motherboard /ˈmʌðɚˌbɔɹd/, thumb /ˈθʌm/, thermal /ˈθɜːməl/
- The “sh” and “zh” sounds: installation /ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/, preposition /ˌpɹɛpəˈzɪʃən/, optional /ˈɑp.ʃə.nəl/, precision /pɹɪˈsɪʒ.ən/, instruction /ɪnˈstɹʌkʃən/
- Long words — get the stress right: radiator /ˈɹej.di(j)ˌej.tɚ/, installation /ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/, preposition /ˌpɹɛpəˈzɪʃən/, compatible /kəmˈpæt.ə.bəl/, accessory /əkˈsɛs.(ə.)ɹi/
How to practise with this video
- Listen to the whole video once without speaking and note the words you do not know.
- Start at 0.75× speed, shadow it sentence by sentence, then go back to normal speed once it feels easy.
- Record yourself and compare with the original, paying attention to words like motherboard, connector, plug.
What is the Shadowing Technique?
Shadowing is a science-backed language learning technique originally developed for professional interpreter training and popularized by polyglot Dr. Alexander Arguelles. The method is simple but powerful: you listen to native English audio and immediately repeat it out loud — like a shadow following the speaker with just a 1–2 second delay. Unlike passive listening or grammar drills, shadowing forces your brain and mouth muscles to simultaneously process and reproduce real speech patterns. Research shows it significantly improves pronunciation accuracy, intonation, rhythm, connected speech, listening comprehension, and speaking fluency — making it one of the most effective methods for IELTS Speaking preparation and real-world English communication.