Shadowing-Übung: How to Fix Holes in Drywall - 4 Easy Methods - Englisch Sprechen Lernen mit Video

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Hi there, I'm Nils with Learn2DIY and sometimes bad stuff happens to your drywall.

So today we're going to cover all of these types of damage

and we're going to show you how to fix each one of them.

Now, just about every hole that you'll find in drywall falls into one of four types.

Basically, you've got something that's really small, like an inch, inch and a half or smaller,

maybe that's two and a half, three centimeters and that's something

that we can patch a certain way up from there you got anything between

that size and maybe fist size four or five inches or

so and then from there you've got something that's big enough

that it's in between your studs or maybe it's even over a stud

but it needs some support so we're talking stuff that's about this big

or smaller maybe seven eight inches nine inches in that range

and then lastly we've got some major damage like what we showed over here

and this is just going to need to have a whole section replaced.

So those are the four types we're going to cover.

And with those four types, we're going to show you the best and quickest way to handle each of those.

And then I've put chapters below so you can actually skip ahead to the section that matches your situation best.

And then with that, we'll show you how to do the patches for each one.

And then at the end of the video,

I'll show you how to match that texture and make it look smooth and just like the wall was before,

whether you've got orange peel or a Santa Fe or knockdown or a completely smooth wall.

Now to start off with we had this really small hole right over here

that was about an inch and then we had another one in this lower left corner

and with something like that anything that is about an inch

or so maybe two and a half centimeters or so and smaller you can actually just patch that just with mud.

You don't really need tape you don't need a patch kit necessarily

and you can use those things but they're not going to help a whole lot

because it's such a small hole it should be easy enough to work with.

With that, what you're going to do is take some mud

that you get at the store and you can buy this in this larger bucket like this for about $6.

They're actually really inexpensive.

You can also buy powder that you mix up yourself

or you can buy a really small container if you just have a small hole like that.

Now with that, you're going to use a putty knife.

I would recommend using one that's at least three or four inches in width and with the knife like that,

a mud knife, you're just going to take it and we're going to fill in that hole as best we can.

You want to be pretty generous in pushing that mud back into

that hole to make sure that it's really backfilled

and there's plenty in there so that it's nice and strong when it dries.

Now on the first coat, you're going to have some bubbling.

It's going to bulge out a little bit.

It's not going to want to stay in place really well, and that's okay.

We're going to just put that in there as well as we can, cover it up, and then we'll let that sit.

Now with this fist size hole that we've got over here, there's a few ways that you can tackle this.

I'll show you all three and two of them are very similar.

With the first one, you can buy a large patch that's a mesh adhesive patch like this one here.

We can actually just apply this eight by eight patch over the whole thing.

And the goal here is really simple.

We're going to clean up our edges, make sure it looks good.

And then we're going to smooth

that patch out as best we can to make sure there's no creases or wrinkles or any issues with that patch.

And it's nice and smooth.

And then we're going to take our mud and we're going to fill

that in and push a lot of that mud into the area

that has the hole in it and you can see from the back here

when you push mud in through these patches like this it's kind of a play -doh fun factory effect

and that's what we want we want to get a lot of

that back there to rebuild that drywall that's back behind there

and once we've got

that filled in really nicely through the area behind the patch

then we're gonna cover up the whole patch itself using

that same knife and our goal here is just to get it nice

and clean it doesn't have to be perfect we just want it to look really good and cover up everything that's there.

So that's option number one for your first coat.

Option number two is what's called the Presto Patch.

The Presto Patch is a really simple idea.

Basically it's a four inch circle of half inch drywall

and then it's got a larger section of paper that we'll use to blend that in with the surrounding wall.

So the idea with this one is you take the styrofoam that came with it, it's a template, you trace out your template with pencil

and then we're going to cut that out with a knife

and get that circle just the right size to match that Presto Patch.

Now once we've got that circle cut out, we're going to liberally apply mud all around the inside of the circle as best

you can also apply it around the outside of the circle where the paper goes.

And then don't forget to apply it also to the plug itself.

So you'll want to apply that mud liberally to the patch itself, especially on the top of it,

of that circle where some of the gravity will have pulled it down from the hole in the wall.

And then we're going to push that in.

And from there, we're going to use our knife to pull across.

We're going to pull from the center outward

and we're going to smooth all of that mud out from underneath the paper

and try to get that nice and smooth and matching up with the contour of the wall again.

Now, just like before we want to cover it enough

that it's covering everything there and we're not going to have anything peeking through,

but not so much that it's going to take two years to dry where we're going to have to sand for eternity.

Now the third technique that we can use for a hole like this is we can use what's called a California patch.

Now with that, we're doing the same thing that we saw with the Presto patch,

but this time we're actually cutting our own essentially out of drywall.

The first step in doing something like this is cutting out

a square as big as it needs to be to get good, strong drywall all around it.

So anything that's been roughed up or broken, especially on that backside, we want to cut that out

and make that square as big as it needs to be to where

We've got good solid drywall there.

So I'm using a square about this big here.

I'm going to clean up my edges and make sure it looks decent.

Then I'm going to use a piece of drywall.

I'm going to cut a piece that's about an inch and a half bigger on all sides than that square.

So let's say this was a five by five.

Then we want to cut a piece of drywall.

That's about eight by eight.

100

That leaves us with that inch and a half all the way around.

101

Now, once you've got that piece, you can hold the piece right up to the wall,

102

use your knife to score a line all the way down one side

103

and all the way down the inside that's just a little bit smaller than the hole.

104

Now we're going to flip it to the other side for the height and do the same thing.

105

We're going to have that square in the middle that's going to keep there and end up being our plug.

106

From there you're going to snap off and then you're going to peel everything but that front paper off.

107

So you're going to get all the gypsum and

108

that back paper removed on all four sides so

109

that you end up with a plug like this just like the presto patch

110

but one that we made ourselves

111

and then from there the technique is exactly like what we showed with the presto patch

112

we're gonna line the outside of this

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and the inside of the hole with mud

114

we're gonna line mud all over the inside of the patch itself i'm gonna push

115

that in after we've got the right fit

116

and we've dry fitted it to make sure it works okay

117

we're gonna smooth out all the mud from all of the paper.

118

And then we're going to cover the whole thing in its first coat.

119

Now the only difference between the second type of hole and the third type of hole in your drywall is backing.

120

If it's a little bit bigger, if it's anything bigger than about fist size, I would recommend that you put some backer boards on it.

121

And this technique is really simple.

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You just need a couple of scraps of wood.

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Could be anything.

124

Plywood works really well because it doesn't split very easily, but you can use some leftover MDF, some trim,

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just some one by pine that you have lying around anything will work pretty well

126

and what you want to do is cut it so

127

that it extends out a couple of inches past the width of the hole on both sides

128

or the height whichever way you want to go it doesn't matter

129

if you put these horizontally or vertically really

130

but our goal is to provide four corners for the patch to screw into

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and then those four corners are supported by screws into the drywall around it

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so we're going to drive some screws with these boards here we're going to drive them right into the board

133

and have that pucker the board right up tight against the drywall

134

and then once i've got those two boards in i end up with a nice area

135

and support for my patch to go into now a fix

136

like this you can actually go fairly large on this

137

if you've got a 10 inch hole for example then it can cover something like

138

that pretty easily as long as you've got that support

139

and you've cleaned up your square and you've got made sure that you've got good drywall to work with.

140

What you don't want to do is kind of go skimpy on the size of the hole

141

that you cut for this and then have weak drywall to work with around it

142

because this depends on the strength of the drywall surrounding the hole that you've cut out.

143

Now our fourth type of hole is the largest thing.

144

That's where there's a lot of damage.

145

Somebody body checked the whole wall or something like that

146

or got thrown into it and you've got a large amount of damage here and it's pretty beat up.

147

With that what I would recommend doing every time is just cutting it out from stud to stud.

148

You're going to need a stud finder

149

that you can rely on to find exactly where the studs are and then you're gonna mark those on your wall.

150

Once you have those studs marked you can use a jab saw or drywall saw.

151

You can also use a knife for this like a box cutter like we've been using

152

but a jab saw makes quick work of this and we're gonna cut from stud to stud.

153

We're also going to cut right down along the inside of the two studs where we're working.

154

So now that we know exactly where the inside of the studs are, we want to come over about three quarters of an inch

155

or about half the thickness of the stud

156

and we're going to use a knife and we're going to open that section up.

157

The goal here is to have a lip

158

or a secure area for the new piece of drywall that we're going to put in to sit on.

159

We're going to actually have it span from stud to stud

160

and it will then be able to use those studs to fasten in

161

and hold in place really well now just like with the california patch

162

we could create a large california patch here to fit in this area

163

but i'm going to show you how to do this with mesh tape instead

164

which is a very common method for a larger area like this

165

so basically we're going to fasten this new piece in we're going to use our drywall screws

166

and drive it in we're going to apply some of our yellow adhesive mesh tape

167

we're going to apply one piece on each side try not to overlap them

168

because that just adds to the thickness of the of the covering that we have to do.

169

And then use your knife to tear it.

170

It makes a nice straight line.

171

It's really easy to work with.

172

And once we've got all four sides covered up there, then we're just going to apply mud just like before into those seams.

173

We're going to push that in.

174

And from the back, you can see what this looks like.

175

We're really just pushing that mud really thick into

176

that area to try to cover as much of that half inch section or five eighths inch section as we can.

177

So we're going to just cover this all up so that you can't see the tape anymore.

178

Again, it doesn't have to be perfect on the first coat.

179

And we're going to do our best to get it nice and covered.

180

We'll come back the next day and the next day we can go through and sand this.

181

And you can do this with a hand sanded sponge like this guy here, or you can do this with a orbital sander for example

182

or a palm sander if you have one

183

but make sure to wear proper respiration this is going to kick a lot of dust up

184

so make sure that your lungs are protected i would recommend some goggles

185

or safety glasses as well

186

so our second coat we are going to use a larger knife

187

and i'm going to try to cover that up

188

and smooth everything over after it's been sanded so we'll put

189

that second coat on we call it a skim coat

190

and what i also recommend doing there is mixing up some water into your pan.

191

So if you have a mud pan, if you don't, you can use something similar to it.

192

But mud pans are awesome because they have a blade on either side to scrape that extra mud off of.

193

And it gives you a nice clean blade every time you use it or a nice clean knife.

194

So we're going to use that and we're going to skim across here and we're going to get this nice and covered.

195

And hopefully it ends up with a pretty smooth finish.

196

Now, depending on if you're working with kind of a knockdown style

197

or Santa Fe style texture on your wall versus an orange peel, you might end up with some,

198

you know, high spots and low spots and things like that.

199

But again, the goal is just to get it as smooth as we can.

200

I'm going to feather on that outside, feather on this outside, same with the top and the bottom,

201

creating a nice, smooth transition.

202

and then one down the middle.

203

There we go.

204

Okay.

205

And that makes all the difference having a good blade.

206

It really does help.

207

So if you can get one, these things are pretty cheap too.

208

I think they're usually around 10 bucks for a metal blade like this.

209

I've been using this one for years and it works well.

210

Now, depending on how that comes out with that second coat, you might need to come back and sand it into a third coat,

211

or maybe it's looking good at that second coat

212

and you're ready to place texture now no matter what size the patch was

213

that we had to take care of on the wall you want to make sure to use something

214

that matches the texture afterward so

215

if you've got an orange peel sort of texture on your wall

216

and you finish it smooth it's going to look like it was patched same with

217

if you do the opposite now they do sell different textures

218

that you can purchase you can buy these online

219

and i'll put links in the description below they come in different size cans

220

and there's different ways to do it but i'll put some of my favorites

221

and then you can also stop at the local hardware store and pick up this wall texture in a can.

222

They've got orange peel like you see here and then they also have a knockdown variety.

223

Now with both of these you've got different settings.

224

You can move this tab from side to side to adjust the pressure

225

that it sprays and then you can twist this knob here to adjust the coarseness or fineness of the spray.

226

So you might want to experiment on a piece of cardboard

227

or an unseen area just to make sure that you're not trying this out for the first time on your actual wall.

228

And then you can just spray it in circular motion like this

229

and this actual spray is in bad shape for whatever reason

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it's not spraying out very well typically it will spray a little bit better than this

231

but you get the idea so we're gonna cover that up

232

and then you'll end up with a hopefully a decent matching orange peel texture now

233

if you don't have orange peel but you have something more like the Santa Fe

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or knockdown texture and you can recognize that by how it has some areas

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that are raised and some

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that are lowered it looks kind of like this kind euro texture going on to it it's very traditional

237

it's been around for a long time so if you have

238

that texture you can also buy some knockdown texture in a can

239

and just here is very similar you're going to spray it in kind of a random pattern around the area

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that needs to be treated and then you're going to use a 10

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or 12 inch knife and pull across it really evenly

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and your goal is to leave this as smooth as possible you don't want any little streaks

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or cuts or scrape marks in there or anything like that, because this is kind of the final coat that you're going to be doing.

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Now, if you don't want to use the can,

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you can also just use this by hand with some mud and just dab some mud on here in different areas, kind of randomly.

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You want to make sure to not make it look like it's in rows or lines or anything like that.

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So keep that as random as possible.

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And then just like before, you're going to take your 10 or 12 inch knife and pull it across.

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Go in various directions if you need to, to try to get that nice smooth finish to it.

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And if you have a good blade, a metal blade makes it so much easier.

251

I've tried this with the plastic ones and they don't really do very well.

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But with that metal blade, you can pull that across and get a really good texture.

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And your goal is to leave some of the areas a little lower, some a little higher.

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So you have that knockdown or Santa Fe look to it.

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Now, the last thing to do is just paint.

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So make sure that you get all of the dust off there.

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This stuff can be really porous.

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It can really soak up a lot of that paint,

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but you don't want to end up with a lot of dust on your roller while you're doing this.

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And as you can see here, this wall that was full of holes just a couple of days ago.

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is now patched up and looks good.

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Now one tool that was really helpful on these larger patches, especially like this one up here, is a good stud finder.

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Knowing exactly where that stud is, having an accurate representation of that.

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I did a video a little while ago on several different stud finders compared.

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We did the stud finder showdown.

266

So if you want to check that out and see which one works best for you, you can click on that link right up there.

267

Thanks for watching.

268

I'm Nils, and we'll see you on the next one.

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Wortschatz und Sprechhinweise zu dieser Lektion

Diese Sprechübung basiert auf dem Video „How to Fix Holes in Drywall - 4 Easy Methods“. Diese Wörter kommen am häufigsten vor: patch, mud, hole, stud, drywall. Dieses Video enthält 268 Sätze und 3606 Wörter zum Nachsprechen. Der gesprochene Teil dauert 15:37. Der Sprecher spricht schnell, etwa 231 Wörter pro Minute – rechne mit verbundenen und verkürzten Lauten. 86 % der Wörter gehören zu den 3.000 häufigsten im Englischen; den Rest solltest du dir vor dem Üben ansehen.

Wichtiger Wortschatz in diesem Video

15 lernenswerte Wörter aus dem Video, mit Aussprache und Bedeutung:

Wort	Aussprache	Bedeutung
patch Substantiv	/pæt͡ʃ/	Flicken, Lappen
stud Substantiv	/stʌd/	Deckhengst, Schälhengst
knife Substantiv	/ˈnaɪ̯f/	Messer, Mässer
smooth Adjektiv	/smuːð/	reibungslos, problemlos
texture Substantiv	/ˈtɛkst͡ʃə(ɹ)/	Textur
coat Substantiv	/ˈkoʊ̯t/	Mantel
blade Substantiv	/bleɪd/	Klinge
spray Substantiv	/spɹeɪ/	Spray, Sprühnebel
peel Verb	/piːl/	schälen
sand Substantiv	/sænd/	Sand
technique Substantiv	/tɛkˈniːk/	Technik
dust Substantiv	/dʌst/	Staub
depend Verb	/dɪˈpɛnd/	abhängen, ankommen
plug Substantiv	/plʌɡ/	Stecker
fist Substantiv	/fɪst/	Faust

Phrasal Verbs, die du hören wirst

Wort	Bedeutung
clean up Verb	putzen
cover up Verb	vertuschen
cut out Verb	unterlassen, aufhören
come back Verb	zurückkommen, zurückkehren
beat up Verb	verprügeln, schlagen
end up Verb	sich herausstellen, am Ende irgendwo / etwas sein
get over Verb	überwinden
pick up Verb	aufheben, aufnehmen

Sätze zum Wiederholen

Kurze, vollständige Sätze aus dem Video, die du im Alltag wiederverwenden kannst:

We've got good solid drywall there.
Then I'm going to use a piece of drywall.
We're going to push that in.

Grammatik in diesem Video

Die Strukturen, die der Sprecher am häufigsten verwendet, mit den genauen Worten aus dem Video:

Struktur	Im Video
Present Perfect Continuous have/has been + -ing – eine Handlung, die früher begann und noch andauert	we've been using · I've been using
Passiv be + Partizip Perfekt – wichtig ist, was geschieht, nicht wer es tut	been roughed · is cut · are supported
Present Perfect have/has + Partizip Perfekt – eine vergangene Handlung, die jetzt noch wichtig ist	I've put · that's been roughed · you've cleaned
Möglichkeit mit „might / may“ might/may + Verb – etwas ist möglich, aber nicht sicher	might end · might need · might want

Aussprache, auf die du achten solltest

Der Sprecher verwendet 143 Kurzformen und abgeschwächte Formen, zum Beispiel we're, you're, you've. Sprich sie in der kurzen Form, so wie du sie hörst.

Die „th“-Laute: smooth /smuːð/, width /ˈwɪtθ/, thickness /ˈθɪknəs/, feather /ˈfɛðə/, thick /θɪk/
Die Laute „sh“ und „zh“: mesh /mɛʃ/, transition /tɹænˈzɪʃ.ən/, essentially /ɪˈsɛnʃəli/, representation /ˌɹɛp.ɹə.zɛnˈteɪ.ʃən/, respiration /ɹɛspɪˈɹeɪʃən/
Lange Wörter – auf die Betonung achten: necessarily /ˌnɛs.əˈsɛɹ.ə.li/, essentially /ɪˈsɛnʃəli/, experiment /ɪkˈspɛɹ.ə.mənt/, representation /ˌɹɛp.ɹə.zɛnˈteɪ.ʃən/, eternity /əˈtɜɹnəti/

Laute, die Deutschsprachigen schwerfallen:

/w/ — mit runden Lippen, nicht wie das deutsche „w“ (/v/): width /ˈwɪtθ/, afterwards /ˈæf.tɚ.wɚdz/, hardware /ˈhɑɹdˌwɛɹ/, twist /twɪst/, whichever /wɪt͡ʃˈɛvɚ/
Stimmhafter Auslaut — /b/, /d/, /g/, /z/, /v/ am Wortende nicht verhärten: stud /stʌd/, blade /bleɪd/, sand /sænd/, depend /dɪˈpɛnd/, plug /plʌɡ/
/æ/ — offener als „ä“: patch /pæt͡ʃ/, sand /sænd/, transition /tɹænˈzɪʃ.ən/, afterwards /ˈæf.tɚ.wɚdz/, pan /pæn/

So übst du mit diesem Video

Höre dir das ganze Video einmal an, ohne zu sprechen, und notiere die Wörter, die du nicht kennst.
Beginne mit 0,75-facher Geschwindigkeit, sprich Satz für Satz nach und wechsle zur normalen Geschwindigkeit, sobald es leichtfällt.
Nimm dich auf und vergleiche mit dem Original; achte dabei auf Wörter wie patch, stud, knife.

Was ist die Shadowing-Technik?

Shadowing ist eine wissenschaftlich fundierte Sprachlerntechnik, die ursprünglich für die professionelle Dolmetscherausbildung entwickelt und durch den Polyglotten Dr. Alexander Arguelles populär gemacht wurde. Die Methode ist einfach aber wirkungsvoll: Du hörst englisches Audio von Muttersprachlern und wiederholst es sofort laut — wie ein Schatten, der dem Sprecher mit nur 1–2 Sekunden Verzögerung folgt. Anders als passives Hören oder Grammatikübungen zwingt Shadowing dein Gehirn und deine Mundmuskulatur, gleichzeitig echte Sprachmuster zu verarbeiten und zu reproduzieren. Studien zeigen, dass es Aussprachegenauigkeit, Intonation, Rhythmus, verbundene Sprache, Hörverständnis und Sprechflüssigkeit signifikant verbessert — was es zu einer der effektivsten Methoden für die IELTS Speaking-Vorbereitung und reale englische Kommunikation macht.

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Wortschatz und Sprechhinweise zu dieser Lektion

Wichtiger Wortschatz in diesem Video

Phrasal Verbs, die du hören wirst

Sätze zum Wiederholen

Grammatik in diesem Video

Aussprache, auf die du achten solltest

So übst du mit diesem Video

Was ist die Shadowing-Technik?