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Hi there, I'm Nils with Learn2DIY and sometimes bad stuff happens to your drywall.
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So today we're going to cover all of these types of damage
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and we're going to show you how to fix each one of them.
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Now, just about every hole that you'll find in drywall falls into one of four types.
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Basically, you've got something that's really small, like an inch, inch and a half or smaller,
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maybe that's two and a half, three centimeters and that's something
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that we can patch a certain way up from there you got anything between
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that size and maybe fist size four or five inches or
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so and then from there you've got something that's big enough
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that it's in between your studs or maybe it's even over a stud
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but it needs some support so we're talking stuff that's about this big
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or smaller maybe seven eight inches nine inches in that range
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and then lastly we've got some major damage like what we showed over here
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and this is just going to need to have a whole section replaced.
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So those are the four types we're going to cover.
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And with those four types, we're going to show you the best and quickest way to handle each of those.
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And then I've put chapters below so you can actually skip ahead to the section that matches your situation best.
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And then with that, we'll show you how to do the patches for each one.
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And then at the end of the video,
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I'll show you how to match that texture and make it look smooth and just like the wall was before,
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whether you've got orange peel or a Santa Fe or knockdown or a completely smooth wall.
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Now to start off with we had this really small hole right over here
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that was about an inch and then we had another one in this lower left corner
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and with something like that anything that is about an inch
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or so maybe two and a half centimeters or so and smaller you can actually just patch that just with mud.
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You don't really need tape you don't need a patch kit necessarily
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and you can use those things but they're not going to help a whole lot
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because it's such a small hole it should be easy enough to work with.
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With that, what you're going to do is take some mud
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that you get at the store and you can buy this in this larger bucket like this for about $6.
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They're actually really inexpensive.
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You can also buy powder that you mix up yourself
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or you can buy a really small container if you just have a small hole like that.
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Now with that, you're going to use a putty knife.
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I would recommend using one that's at least three or four inches in width and with the knife like that,
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a mud knife, you're just going to take it and we're going to fill in that hole as best we can.
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You want to be pretty generous in pushing that mud back into
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that hole to make sure that it's really backfilled
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and there's plenty in there so that it's nice and strong when it dries.
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Now on the first coat, you're going to have some bubbling.
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It's going to bulge out a little bit.
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It's not going to want to stay in place really well, and that's okay.
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We're going to just put that in there as well as we can, cover it up, and then we'll let that sit.
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Now with this fist size hole that we've got over here, there's a few ways that you can tackle this.
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I'll show you all three and two of them are very similar.
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With the first one, you can buy a large patch that's a mesh adhesive patch like this one here.
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We can actually just apply this eight by eight patch over the whole thing.
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And the goal here is really simple.
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We're going to clean up our edges, make sure it looks good.
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And then we're going to smooth
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that patch out as best we can to make sure there's no creases or wrinkles or any issues with that patch.
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And it's nice and smooth.
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And then we're going to take our mud and we're going to fill
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that in and push a lot of that mud into the area
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that has the hole in it and you can see from the back here
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when you push mud in through these patches like this it's kind of a play -doh fun factory effect
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and that's what we want we want to get a lot of
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that back there to rebuild that drywall that's back behind there
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and once we've got
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that filled in really nicely through the area behind the patch
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then we're gonna cover up the whole patch itself using
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that same knife and our goal here is just to get it nice
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and clean it doesn't have to be perfect we just want it to look really good and cover up everything that's there.
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So that's option number one for your first coat.
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Option number two is what's called the Presto Patch.
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The Presto Patch is a really simple idea.
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Basically it's a four inch circle of half inch drywall
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and then it's got a larger section of paper that we'll use to blend that in with the surrounding wall.
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So the idea with this one is you take the styrofoam that came with it, it's a template, you trace out your template with pencil
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and then we're going to cut that out with a knife
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and get that circle just the right size to match that Presto Patch.
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Now once we've got that circle cut out, we're going to liberally apply mud all around the inside of the circle as best
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you can also apply it around the outside of the circle where the paper goes.
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And then don't forget to apply it also to the plug itself.
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So you'll want to apply that mud liberally to the patch itself, especially on the top of it,
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of that circle where some of the gravity will have pulled it down from the hole in the wall.
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And then we're going to push that in.
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And from there, we're going to use our knife to pull across.
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We're going to pull from the center outward
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and we're going to smooth all of that mud out from underneath the paper
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and try to get that nice and smooth and matching up with the contour of the wall again.
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Now, just like before we want to cover it enough
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that it's covering everything there and we're not going to have anything peeking through,
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but not so much that it's going to take two years to dry where we're going to have to sand for eternity.
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Now the third technique that we can use for a hole like this is we can use what's called a California patch.
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Now with that, we're doing the same thing that we saw with the Presto patch,
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but this time we're actually cutting our own essentially out of drywall.
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The first step in doing something like this is cutting out
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a square as big as it needs to be to get good, strong drywall all around it.
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So anything that's been roughed up or broken, especially on that backside, we want to cut that out
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and make that square as big as it needs to be to where
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We've got good solid drywall there.
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So I'm using a square about this big here.
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I'm going to clean up my edges and make sure it looks decent.
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Then I'm going to use a piece of drywall.
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I'm going to cut a piece that's about an inch and a half bigger on all sides than that square.
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So let's say this was a five by five.
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Then we want to cut a piece of drywall.
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That's about eight by eight.
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That leaves us with that inch and a half all the way around.
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Now, once you've got that piece, you can hold the piece right up to the wall,
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use your knife to score a line all the way down one side
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and all the way down the inside that's just a little bit smaller than the hole.
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Now we're going to flip it to the other side for the height and do the same thing.
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We're going to have that square in the middle that's going to keep there and end up being our plug.
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From there you're going to snap off and then you're going to peel everything but that front paper off.
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So you're going to get all the gypsum and
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that back paper removed on all four sides so
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that you end up with a plug like this just like the presto patch
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but one that we made ourselves
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and then from there the technique is exactly like what we showed with the presto patch
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we're gonna line the outside of this
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and the inside of the hole with mud
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we're gonna line mud all over the inside of the patch itself i'm gonna push
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that in after we've got the right fit
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and we've dry fitted it to make sure it works okay
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we're gonna smooth out all the mud from all of the paper.
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And then we're going to cover the whole thing in its first coat.
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Now the only difference between the second type of hole and the third type of hole in your drywall is backing.
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If it's a little bit bigger, if it's anything bigger than about fist size, I would recommend that you put some backer boards on it.
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And this technique is really simple.
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You just need a couple of scraps of wood.
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Could be anything.
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Plywood works really well because it doesn't split very easily, but you can use some leftover MDF, some trim,
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just some one by pine that you have lying around anything will work pretty well
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and what you want to do is cut it so
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that it extends out a couple of inches past the width of the hole on both sides
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or the height whichever way you want to go it doesn't matter
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if you put these horizontally or vertically really
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but our goal is to provide four corners for the patch to screw into
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and then those four corners are supported by screws into the drywall around it
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so we're going to drive some screws with these boards here we're going to drive them right into the board
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and have that pucker the board right up tight against the drywall
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and then once i've got those two boards in i end up with a nice area
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and support for my patch to go into now a fix
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like this you can actually go fairly large on this
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if you've got a 10 inch hole for example then it can cover something like
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that pretty easily as long as you've got that support
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and you've cleaned up your square and you've got made sure that you've got good drywall to work with.
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What you don't want to do is kind of go skimpy on the size of the hole
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that you cut for this and then have weak drywall to work with around it
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because this depends on the strength of the drywall surrounding the hole that you've cut out.
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Now our fourth type of hole is the largest thing.
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That's where there's a lot of damage.
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Somebody body checked the whole wall or something like that
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or got thrown into it and you've got a large amount of damage here and it's pretty beat up.
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With that what I would recommend doing every time is just cutting it out from stud to stud.
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You're going to need a stud finder
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that you can rely on to find exactly where the studs are and then you're gonna mark those on your wall.
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Once you have those studs marked you can use a jab saw or drywall saw.
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You can also use a knife for this like a box cutter like we've been using
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but a jab saw makes quick work of this and we're gonna cut from stud to stud.
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We're also going to cut right down along the inside of the two studs where we're working.
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So now that we know exactly where the inside of the studs are, we want to come over about three quarters of an inch
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or about half the thickness of the stud
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and we're going to use a knife and we're going to open that section up.
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The goal here is to have a lip
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or a secure area for the new piece of drywall that we're going to put in to sit on.
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We're going to actually have it span from stud to stud
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and it will then be able to use those studs to fasten in
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and hold in place really well now just like with the california patch
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we could create a large california patch here to fit in this area
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but i'm going to show you how to do this with mesh tape instead
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which is a very common method for a larger area like this
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so basically we're going to fasten this new piece in we're going to use our drywall screws
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and drive it in we're going to apply some of our yellow adhesive mesh tape
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we're going to apply one piece on each side try not to overlap them
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because that just adds to the thickness of the of the covering that we have to do.
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And then use your knife to tear it.
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It makes a nice straight line.
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It's really easy to work with.
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And once we've got all four sides covered up there, then we're just going to apply mud just like before into those seams.
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We're going to push that in.
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And from the back, you can see what this looks like.
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We're really just pushing that mud really thick into
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that area to try to cover as much of that half inch section or five eighths inch section as we can.
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So we're going to just cover this all up so that you can't see the tape anymore.
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Again, it doesn't have to be perfect on the first coat.
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And we're going to do our best to get it nice and covered.
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We'll come back the next day and the next day we can go through and sand this.
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And you can do this with a hand sanded sponge like this guy here, or you can do this with a orbital sander for example
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or a palm sander if you have one
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but make sure to wear proper respiration this is going to kick a lot of dust up
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so make sure that your lungs are protected i would recommend some goggles
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or safety glasses as well
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so our second coat we are going to use a larger knife
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and i'm going to try to cover that up
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and smooth everything over after it's been sanded so we'll put
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that second coat on we call it a skim coat
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and what i also recommend doing there is mixing up some water into your pan.
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So if you have a mud pan, if you don't, you can use something similar to it.
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But mud pans are awesome because they have a blade on either side to scrape that extra mud off of.
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And it gives you a nice clean blade every time you use it or a nice clean knife.
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So we're going to use that and we're going to skim across here and we're going to get this nice and covered.
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And hopefully it ends up with a pretty smooth finish.
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Now, depending on if you're working with kind of a knockdown style
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or Santa Fe style texture on your wall versus an orange peel, you might end up with some,
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you know, high spots and low spots and things like that.
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But again, the goal is just to get it as smooth as we can.
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I'm going to feather on that outside, feather on this outside, same with the top and the bottom,
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creating a nice, smooth transition.
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and then one down the middle.
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There we go.
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Okay.
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And that makes all the difference having a good blade.
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It really does help.
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So if you can get one, these things are pretty cheap too.
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I think they're usually around 10 bucks for a metal blade like this.
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I've been using this one for years and it works well.
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Now, depending on how that comes out with that second coat, you might need to come back and sand it into a third coat,
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or maybe it's looking good at that second coat
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and you're ready to place texture now no matter what size the patch was
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that we had to take care of on the wall you want to make sure to use something
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that matches the texture afterward so
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if you've got an orange peel sort of texture on your wall
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and you finish it smooth it's going to look like it was patched same with
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if you do the opposite now they do sell different textures
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that you can purchase you can buy these online
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and i'll put links in the description below they come in different size cans
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and there's different ways to do it but i'll put some of my favorites
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and then you can also stop at the local hardware store and pick up this wall texture in a can.
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They've got orange peel like you see here and then they also have a knockdown variety.
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Now with both of these you've got different settings.
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You can move this tab from side to side to adjust the pressure
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that it sprays and then you can twist this knob here to adjust the coarseness or fineness of the spray.
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So you might want to experiment on a piece of cardboard
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or an unseen area just to make sure that you're not trying this out for the first time on your actual wall.
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And then you can just spray it in circular motion like this
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and this actual spray is in bad shape for whatever reason
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it's not spraying out very well typically it will spray a little bit better than this
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but you get the idea so we're gonna cover that up
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and then you'll end up with a hopefully a decent matching orange peel texture now
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if you don't have orange peel but you have something more like the Santa Fe
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or knockdown texture and you can recognize that by how it has some areas
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that are raised and some
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that are lowered it looks kind of like this kind euro texture going on to it it's very traditional
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it's been around for a long time so if you have
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that texture you can also buy some knockdown texture in a can
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and just here is very similar you're going to spray it in kind of a random pattern around the area
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that needs to be treated and then you're going to use a 10
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or 12 inch knife and pull across it really evenly
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and your goal is to leave this as smooth as possible you don't want any little streaks
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or cuts or scrape marks in there or anything like that, because this is kind of the final coat that you're going to be doing.
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Now, if you don't want to use the can,
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you can also just use this by hand with some mud and just dab some mud on here in different areas, kind of randomly.
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You want to make sure to not make it look like it's in rows or lines or anything like that.
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So keep that as random as possible.
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And then just like before, you're going to take your 10 or 12 inch knife and pull it across.
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Go in various directions if you need to, to try to get that nice smooth finish to it.
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And if you have a good blade, a metal blade makes it so much easier.
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I've tried this with the plastic ones and they don't really do very well.
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But with that metal blade, you can pull that across and get a really good texture.
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And your goal is to leave some of the areas a little lower, some a little higher.
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So you have that knockdown or Santa Fe look to it.
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Now, the last thing to do is just paint.
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So make sure that you get all of the dust off there.
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This stuff can be really porous.
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It can really soak up a lot of that paint,
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but you don't want to end up with a lot of dust on your roller while you're doing this.
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And as you can see here, this wall that was full of holes just a couple of days ago.
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is now patched up and looks good.
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Now one tool that was really helpful on these larger patches, especially like this one up here, is a good stud finder.
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Knowing exactly where that stud is, having an accurate representation of that.
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I did a video a little while ago on several different stud finders compared.
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We did the stud finder showdown.
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So if you want to check that out and see which one works best for you, you can click on that link right up there.
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Thanks for watching.
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I'm Nils, and we'll see you on the next one.
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Vocabolario e note di pronuncia per questa lezione
Questa lezione di conversazione si basa sul video “How to Fix Holes in Drywall - 4 Easy Methods”. Le parole che ritornano più spesso: patch, mud, hole, stud, drywall. Questo video contiene 268 frasi e 3606 parole da ripetere con lo shadowing. Il parlato dura 15:37. Chi parla va veloce, circa 231 parole al minuto: aspettati suoni legati e ridotti. Il 86% delle parole rientra nelle 3.000 più comuni dell’inglese; conviene studiare le altre prima di iniziare.
Vocaboli chiave di questo video
15 parole del video che vale la pena imparare, con pronuncia e significato:
| Parola | Pronuncia | Significato |
|---|---|---|
| patch sostantivo | /pæt͡ʃ/ | pezza, toppa |
| stud sostantivo | /stʌd/ | riproduttore, razzatore |
| knife sostantivo | /ˈnaɪ̯f/ | coltello |
| smooth aggettivo | /smuːð/ | facile, dolce |
| texture sostantivo | /ˈtɛkst͡ʃə(ɹ)/ | texture |
| coat sostantivo | /ˈkoʊ̯t/ | mantello, cappotto |
| blade sostantivo | /bleɪd/ | lama |
| peel verbo | /piːl/ | pelare, sbucciare |
| sand sostantivo | /sænd/ | sabbia, rena |
| technique sostantivo | /tɛkˈniːk/ | tecnica |
| dust sostantivo | /dʌst/ | polvere |
| depend verbo | /dɪˈpɛnd/ | dipendere |
| plug sostantivo | /plʌɡ/ | spina |
| fist sostantivo | /fɪst/ | pugno |
| mesh sostantivo | /mɛʃ/ | maglia, rete |
I phrasal verb che sentirai
| Parola | Significato |
|---|---|
| clean up verbo | ripulire |
| cover up verbo | insabbiare, occultare |
| cut out verbo | smetterla, finirla |
| come back verbo | tornare |
| beat up verbo | picchiare, rompere le ossa |
| end up verbo | andare a finire, finire |
| get over verbo | superare, vincere |
| go through verbo | attraversare |
Frasi da ripetere
Frasi brevi e complete del video che puoi riutilizzare nella conversazione di tutti i giorni:
- We've got good solid drywall there.
- Then I'm going to use a piece of drywall.
- We're going to push that in.
La grammatica di questo video
Le strutture che chi parla usa di più, con le parole esatte del video:
| Struttura | Nel video |
|---|---|
| Present perfect continuous have/has been + -ing — un’azione iniziata prima e ancora in corso | we've been using · I've been using |
| Forma passiva be + participio passato — conta ciò che accade, non chi lo fa | been roughed · is cut · are supported |
| Present perfect have/has + participio passato — un’azione passata che conta ancora adesso | I've put · that's been roughed · you've cleaned |
| Possibilità con “might / may” might/may + verbo — qualcosa di possibile ma non certo | might end · might need · might want |
Pronuncia a cui fare attenzione
Chi parla usa 143 contrazioni e forme ridotte, come we're, you're, you've. Pronunciale nella forma breve, così come le senti.
- I suoni “th”: smooth /smuːð/, width /ˈwɪtθ/, thickness /ˈθɪknəs/, feather /ˈfɛðə/, thick /θɪk/
- I suoni “sh” e “zh”: mesh /mɛʃ/, transition /tɹænˈzɪʃ.ən/, essentially /ɪˈsɛnʃəli/, representation /ˌɹɛp.ɹə.zɛnˈteɪ.ʃən/, respiration /ɹɛspɪˈɹeɪʃən/
- Parole lunghe — attenzione all’accento: necessarily /ˌnɛs.əˈsɛɹ.ə.li/, essentially /ɪˈsɛnʃəli/, experiment /ɪkˈspɛɹ.ə.mənt/, representation /ˌɹɛp.ɹə.zɛnˈteɪ.ʃən/, eternity /əˈtɜɹnəti/
I suoni difficili per chi parla italiano:
- /h/ — va soffiata, non è muta: helpful /ˈhɛlp.fl̩/, hardware /ˈhɑɹdˌwɛɹ/, adhesive /ədˈhiː.sɪv/
- Consonante finale — senza aggiungere una vocale dopo: patch /pæt͡ʃ/, stud /stʌd/, knife /ˈnaɪ̯f/, coat /ˈkoʊ̯t/, blade /bleɪd/
- /æ/ — più aperta della “e”: patch /pæt͡ʃ/, sand /sænd/, transition /tɹænˈzɪʃ.ən/, afterwards /ˈæf.tɚ.wɚdz/, pan /pæn/
Come esercitarsi con questo video
- Ascolta tutto il video una volta senza parlare e annota le parole che non conosci.
- Inizia a velocità 0,75×, fai shadowing frase per frase e torna alla velocità normale quando diventa facile.
- Registrati e confronta con l’originale, facendo attenzione a parole come patch, stud, knife.
Cos'è la tecnica dello Shadowing?
Shadowing è una tecnica di apprendimento delle lingue supportata da studi scientifici, originariamente sviluppata per la formazione dei traduttori professionisti e resa popolare dal poliglotta Dr. Alexander Arguelles. Il metodo è semplice ma potente: ascolti un audio in inglese di madrelingua e lo ripeti immediatamente ad alta voce — come un'ombra che segue il parlante con un ritardo di solo 1–2 secondi. A differenza dell'ascolto passivo o degli esercizi di grammatica, lo shadowing costringe il tuo cervello e i muscoli della bocca a elaborare e riprodurre simultaneamente i modelli di discorso reale. La ricerca dimostra che migliora significativamente la precisione della pronuncia, l'intonazione, il ritmo, il discorso connesso, la comprensione dell'ascolto e la fluidità del parlato — rendendolo uno dei metodi più efficaci per la preparazione alla prova di speaking dell'IELTS e per la comunicazione reale in inglese.