Prática de Shadowing: How to Fix Holes in Drywall - 4 Easy Methods - Aprenda a falar inglês com vídeo
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Hi there, I'm Nils with Learn2DIY and sometimes bad stuff happens to your drywall.
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So today we're going to cover all of these types of damage
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and we're going to show you how to fix each one of them.
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Now, just about every hole that you'll find in drywall falls into one of four types.
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Basically, you've got something that's really small, like an inch, inch and a half or smaller,
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maybe that's two and a half, three centimeters and that's something
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that we can patch a certain way up from there you got anything between
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that size and maybe fist size four or five inches or
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so and then from there you've got something that's big enough
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that it's in between your studs or maybe it's even over a stud
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but it needs some support so we're talking stuff that's about this big
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or smaller maybe seven eight inches nine inches in that range
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and then lastly we've got some major damage like what we showed over here
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and this is just going to need to have a whole section replaced.
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So those are the four types we're going to cover.
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And with those four types, we're going to show you the best and quickest way to handle each of those.
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And then I've put chapters below so you can actually skip ahead to the section that matches your situation best.
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And then with that, we'll show you how to do the patches for each one.
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And then at the end of the video,
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I'll show you how to match that texture and make it look smooth and just like the wall was before,
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whether you've got orange peel or a Santa Fe or knockdown or a completely smooth wall.
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Now to start off with we had this really small hole right over here
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that was about an inch and then we had another one in this lower left corner
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and with something like that anything that is about an inch
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or so maybe two and a half centimeters or so and smaller you can actually just patch that just with mud.
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You don't really need tape you don't need a patch kit necessarily
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and you can use those things but they're not going to help a whole lot
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because it's such a small hole it should be easy enough to work with.
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With that, what you're going to do is take some mud
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that you get at the store and you can buy this in this larger bucket like this for about $6.
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They're actually really inexpensive.
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You can also buy powder that you mix up yourself
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or you can buy a really small container if you just have a small hole like that.
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Now with that, you're going to use a putty knife.
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I would recommend using one that's at least three or four inches in width and with the knife like that,
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a mud knife, you're just going to take it and we're going to fill in that hole as best we can.
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You want to be pretty generous in pushing that mud back into
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that hole to make sure that it's really backfilled
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and there's plenty in there so that it's nice and strong when it dries.
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Now on the first coat, you're going to have some bubbling.
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It's going to bulge out a little bit.
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It's not going to want to stay in place really well, and that's okay.
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We're going to just put that in there as well as we can, cover it up, and then we'll let that sit.
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Now with this fist size hole that we've got over here, there's a few ways that you can tackle this.
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I'll show you all three and two of them are very similar.
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With the first one, you can buy a large patch that's a mesh adhesive patch like this one here.
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We can actually just apply this eight by eight patch over the whole thing.
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And the goal here is really simple.
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We're going to clean up our edges, make sure it looks good.
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And then we're going to smooth
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that patch out as best we can to make sure there's no creases or wrinkles or any issues with that patch.
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And it's nice and smooth.
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And then we're going to take our mud and we're going to fill
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that in and push a lot of that mud into the area
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that has the hole in it and you can see from the back here
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when you push mud in through these patches like this it's kind of a play -doh fun factory effect
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and that's what we want we want to get a lot of
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that back there to rebuild that drywall that's back behind there
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and once we've got
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that filled in really nicely through the area behind the patch
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then we're gonna cover up the whole patch itself using
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that same knife and our goal here is just to get it nice
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and clean it doesn't have to be perfect we just want it to look really good and cover up everything that's there.
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So that's option number one for your first coat.
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Option number two is what's called the Presto Patch.
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The Presto Patch is a really simple idea.
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Basically it's a four inch circle of half inch drywall
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and then it's got a larger section of paper that we'll use to blend that in with the surrounding wall.
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So the idea with this one is you take the styrofoam that came with it, it's a template, you trace out your template with pencil
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and then we're going to cut that out with a knife
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and get that circle just the right size to match that Presto Patch.
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Now once we've got that circle cut out, we're going to liberally apply mud all around the inside of the circle as best
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you can also apply it around the outside of the circle where the paper goes.
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And then don't forget to apply it also to the plug itself.
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So you'll want to apply that mud liberally to the patch itself, especially on the top of it,
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of that circle where some of the gravity will have pulled it down from the hole in the wall.
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And then we're going to push that in.
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And from there, we're going to use our knife to pull across.
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We're going to pull from the center outward
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and we're going to smooth all of that mud out from underneath the paper
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and try to get that nice and smooth and matching up with the contour of the wall again.
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Now, just like before we want to cover it enough
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that it's covering everything there and we're not going to have anything peeking through,
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but not so much that it's going to take two years to dry where we're going to have to sand for eternity.
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Now the third technique that we can use for a hole like this is we can use what's called a California patch.
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Now with that, we're doing the same thing that we saw with the Presto patch,
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but this time we're actually cutting our own essentially out of drywall.
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The first step in doing something like this is cutting out
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a square as big as it needs to be to get good, strong drywall all around it.
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So anything that's been roughed up or broken, especially on that backside, we want to cut that out
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and make that square as big as it needs to be to where
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We've got good solid drywall there.
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So I'm using a square about this big here.
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I'm going to clean up my edges and make sure it looks decent.
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Then I'm going to use a piece of drywall.
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I'm going to cut a piece that's about an inch and a half bigger on all sides than that square.
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So let's say this was a five by five.
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Then we want to cut a piece of drywall.
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That's about eight by eight.
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That leaves us with that inch and a half all the way around.
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Now, once you've got that piece, you can hold the piece right up to the wall,
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use your knife to score a line all the way down one side
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and all the way down the inside that's just a little bit smaller than the hole.
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Now we're going to flip it to the other side for the height and do the same thing.
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We're going to have that square in the middle that's going to keep there and end up being our plug.
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From there you're going to snap off and then you're going to peel everything but that front paper off.
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So you're going to get all the gypsum and
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that back paper removed on all four sides so
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that you end up with a plug like this just like the presto patch
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but one that we made ourselves
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and then from there the technique is exactly like what we showed with the presto patch
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we're gonna line the outside of this
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and the inside of the hole with mud
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we're gonna line mud all over the inside of the patch itself i'm gonna push
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that in after we've got the right fit
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and we've dry fitted it to make sure it works okay
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we're gonna smooth out all the mud from all of the paper.
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And then we're going to cover the whole thing in its first coat.
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Now the only difference between the second type of hole and the third type of hole in your drywall is backing.
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If it's a little bit bigger, if it's anything bigger than about fist size, I would recommend that you put some backer boards on it.
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And this technique is really simple.
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You just need a couple of scraps of wood.
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Could be anything.
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Plywood works really well because it doesn't split very easily, but you can use some leftover MDF, some trim,
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just some one by pine that you have lying around anything will work pretty well
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and what you want to do is cut it so
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that it extends out a couple of inches past the width of the hole on both sides
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or the height whichever way you want to go it doesn't matter
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if you put these horizontally or vertically really
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but our goal is to provide four corners for the patch to screw into
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and then those four corners are supported by screws into the drywall around it
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so we're going to drive some screws with these boards here we're going to drive them right into the board
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and have that pucker the board right up tight against the drywall
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and then once i've got those two boards in i end up with a nice area
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and support for my patch to go into now a fix
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like this you can actually go fairly large on this
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if you've got a 10 inch hole for example then it can cover something like
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that pretty easily as long as you've got that support
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and you've cleaned up your square and you've got made sure that you've got good drywall to work with.
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What you don't want to do is kind of go skimpy on the size of the hole
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that you cut for this and then have weak drywall to work with around it
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because this depends on the strength of the drywall surrounding the hole that you've cut out.
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Now our fourth type of hole is the largest thing.
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That's where there's a lot of damage.
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Somebody body checked the whole wall or something like that
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or got thrown into it and you've got a large amount of damage here and it's pretty beat up.
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With that what I would recommend doing every time is just cutting it out from stud to stud.
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You're going to need a stud finder
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that you can rely on to find exactly where the studs are and then you're gonna mark those on your wall.
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Once you have those studs marked you can use a jab saw or drywall saw.
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You can also use a knife for this like a box cutter like we've been using
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but a jab saw makes quick work of this and we're gonna cut from stud to stud.
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We're also going to cut right down along the inside of the two studs where we're working.
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So now that we know exactly where the inside of the studs are, we want to come over about three quarters of an inch
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or about half the thickness of the stud
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and we're going to use a knife and we're going to open that section up.
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The goal here is to have a lip
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or a secure area for the new piece of drywall that we're going to put in to sit on.
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We're going to actually have it span from stud to stud
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and it will then be able to use those studs to fasten in
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and hold in place really well now just like with the california patch
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we could create a large california patch here to fit in this area
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but i'm going to show you how to do this with mesh tape instead
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which is a very common method for a larger area like this
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so basically we're going to fasten this new piece in we're going to use our drywall screws
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and drive it in we're going to apply some of our yellow adhesive mesh tape
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we're going to apply one piece on each side try not to overlap them
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because that just adds to the thickness of the of the covering that we have to do.
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And then use your knife to tear it.
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It makes a nice straight line.
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It's really easy to work with.
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And once we've got all four sides covered up there, then we're just going to apply mud just like before into those seams.
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We're going to push that in.
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And from the back, you can see what this looks like.
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We're really just pushing that mud really thick into
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that area to try to cover as much of that half inch section or five eighths inch section as we can.
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So we're going to just cover this all up so that you can't see the tape anymore.
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Again, it doesn't have to be perfect on the first coat.
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And we're going to do our best to get it nice and covered.
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We'll come back the next day and the next day we can go through and sand this.
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And you can do this with a hand sanded sponge like this guy here, or you can do this with a orbital sander for example
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or a palm sander if you have one
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but make sure to wear proper respiration this is going to kick a lot of dust up
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so make sure that your lungs are protected i would recommend some goggles
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or safety glasses as well
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so our second coat we are going to use a larger knife
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and i'm going to try to cover that up
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and smooth everything over after it's been sanded so we'll put
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that second coat on we call it a skim coat
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and what i also recommend doing there is mixing up some water into your pan.
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So if you have a mud pan, if you don't, you can use something similar to it.
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But mud pans are awesome because they have a blade on either side to scrape that extra mud off of.
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And it gives you a nice clean blade every time you use it or a nice clean knife.
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So we're going to use that and we're going to skim across here and we're going to get this nice and covered.
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And hopefully it ends up with a pretty smooth finish.
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Now, depending on if you're working with kind of a knockdown style
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or Santa Fe style texture on your wall versus an orange peel, you might end up with some,
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you know, high spots and low spots and things like that.
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But again, the goal is just to get it as smooth as we can.
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I'm going to feather on that outside, feather on this outside, same with the top and the bottom,
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creating a nice, smooth transition.
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and then one down the middle.
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There we go.
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Okay.
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And that makes all the difference having a good blade.
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It really does help.
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So if you can get one, these things are pretty cheap too.
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I think they're usually around 10 bucks for a metal blade like this.
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I've been using this one for years and it works well.
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Now, depending on how that comes out with that second coat, you might need to come back and sand it into a third coat,
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or maybe it's looking good at that second coat
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and you're ready to place texture now no matter what size the patch was
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that we had to take care of on the wall you want to make sure to use something
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that matches the texture afterward so
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if you've got an orange peel sort of texture on your wall
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and you finish it smooth it's going to look like it was patched same with
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if you do the opposite now they do sell different textures
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that you can purchase you can buy these online
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and i'll put links in the description below they come in different size cans
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and there's different ways to do it but i'll put some of my favorites
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and then you can also stop at the local hardware store and pick up this wall texture in a can.
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They've got orange peel like you see here and then they also have a knockdown variety.
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Now with both of these you've got different settings.
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You can move this tab from side to side to adjust the pressure
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that it sprays and then you can twist this knob here to adjust the coarseness or fineness of the spray.
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So you might want to experiment on a piece of cardboard
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or an unseen area just to make sure that you're not trying this out for the first time on your actual wall.
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And then you can just spray it in circular motion like this
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and this actual spray is in bad shape for whatever reason
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it's not spraying out very well typically it will spray a little bit better than this
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but you get the idea so we're gonna cover that up
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and then you'll end up with a hopefully a decent matching orange peel texture now
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if you don't have orange peel but you have something more like the Santa Fe
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or knockdown texture and you can recognize that by how it has some areas
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that are raised and some
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that are lowered it looks kind of like this kind euro texture going on to it it's very traditional
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it's been around for a long time so if you have
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that texture you can also buy some knockdown texture in a can
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and just here is very similar you're going to spray it in kind of a random pattern around the area
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that needs to be treated and then you're going to use a 10
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or 12 inch knife and pull across it really evenly
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and your goal is to leave this as smooth as possible you don't want any little streaks
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or cuts or scrape marks in there or anything like that, because this is kind of the final coat that you're going to be doing.
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Now, if you don't want to use the can,
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you can also just use this by hand with some mud and just dab some mud on here in different areas, kind of randomly.
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You want to make sure to not make it look like it's in rows or lines or anything like that.
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So keep that as random as possible.
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And then just like before, you're going to take your 10 or 12 inch knife and pull it across.
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Go in various directions if you need to, to try to get that nice smooth finish to it.
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And if you have a good blade, a metal blade makes it so much easier.
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I've tried this with the plastic ones and they don't really do very well.
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But with that metal blade, you can pull that across and get a really good texture.
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And your goal is to leave some of the areas a little lower, some a little higher.
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So you have that knockdown or Santa Fe look to it.
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Now, the last thing to do is just paint.
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So make sure that you get all of the dust off there.
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This stuff can be really porous.
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It can really soak up a lot of that paint,
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but you don't want to end up with a lot of dust on your roller while you're doing this.
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And as you can see here, this wall that was full of holes just a couple of days ago.
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is now patched up and looks good.
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Now one tool that was really helpful on these larger patches, especially like this one up here, is a good stud finder.
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Knowing exactly where that stud is, having an accurate representation of that.
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I did a video a little while ago on several different stud finders compared.
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We did the stud finder showdown.
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So if you want to check that out and see which one works best for you, you can click on that link right up there.
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Thanks for watching.
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I'm Nils, and we'll see you on the next one.
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Vocabulário e dicas de fala para esta lição
Esta aula de conversação usa o vídeo “How to Fix Holes in Drywall - 4 Easy Methods”. As palavras que mais se repetem: patch, mud, hole, stud, drywall. Este vídeo tem 268 frases e 3606 palavras para praticar shadowing. A fala dura 15:37. O falante fala rápido, cerca de 231 palavras por minuto, então espere sons ligados e reduzidos. 86% das palavras estão entre as 3.000 mais comuns do inglês; vale a pena estudar o restante antes de começar.
Vocabulário principal deste vídeo
15 palavras do vídeo que vale a pena aprender, com pronúncia e significado:
| Palavra | Pronúncia | Significado |
|---|---|---|
| patch substantivo | /pæt͡ʃ/ | remendo |
| stud substantivo | /stʌd/ | garanhão, caudelaria |
| knife substantivo | /ˈnaɪ̯f/ | faca |
| smooth adjetivo | /smuːð/ | suave |
| coat substantivo | /ˈkoʊ̯t/ | casaco, agasalho |
| blade substantivo | /bleɪd/ | lâmina, fio |
| spray substantivo | /spɹeɪ/ | borrifo, spray |
| peel verbo | /piːl/ | descascar, pelar |
| sand substantivo | /sænd/ | areia |
| technique substantivo | /tɛkˈniːk/ | técnica |
| dust substantivo | /dʌst/ | pó, poeira |
| depend verbo | /dɪˈpɛnd/ | depender |
| plug substantivo | /plʌɡ/ | plugue |
| fist substantivo | /fɪst/ | punho |
| mesh substantivo | /mɛʃ/ | malha |
Phrasal verbs que você vai ouvir
| Palavra | Significado |
|---|---|
| clean up verbo | dar uma limpeza, limpar |
| cover up verbo | encobrir |
| come back verbo | voltar |
| beat up verbo | espancar |
| end up verbo | terminar, acabar |
| get over verbo | superar |
| pick up verbo | pegar |
Frases que vale a pena repetir
Frases curtas e completas do vídeo que você pode usar na conversa do dia a dia:
- We've got good solid drywall there.
- Then I'm going to use a piece of drywall.
- We're going to push that in.
Gramática neste vídeo
As estruturas que o falante mais usa, com as palavras exatas do vídeo:
| Estrutura | No vídeo |
|---|---|
| Present perfect continuous have/has been + -ing — uma ação que começou antes e continua | we've been using · I've been using |
| Voz passiva be + particípio passado — o foco está no que acontece, não em quem faz | been roughed · is cut · are supported |
| Present perfect have/has + particípio passado — uma ação passada que ainda importa agora | I've put · that's been roughed · you've cleaned |
| Possibilidade com “might / may” might/may + verbo — algo possível, mas não certo | might end · might need · might want |
Pronúncia para ficar de olho
O falante usa 143 contrações e formas reduzidas, como we're, you're, you've. Diga-as na forma curta, do jeito que você ouve.
- Os sons de “th”: smooth /smuːð/, width /ˈwɪtθ/, thickness /ˈθɪknəs/, feather /ˈfɛðə/, thick /θɪk/
- Os sons de “sh” e “zh”: mesh /mɛʃ/, transition /tɹænˈzɪʃ.ən/, essentially /ɪˈsɛnʃəli/, representation /ˌɹɛp.ɹə.zɛnˈteɪ.ʃən/, respiration /ɹɛspɪˈɹeɪʃən/
- Palavras longas — acerte a sílaba tônica: necessarily /ˌnɛs.əˈsɛɹ.ə.li/, essentially /ɪˈsɛnʃəli/, experiment /ɪkˈspɛɹ.ə.mənt/, representation /ˌɹɛp.ɹə.zɛnˈteɪ.ʃən/, eternity /əˈtɜɹnəti/
Sons difíceis para falantes de português:
- Consoante final — sem acrescentar um “i” depois: stud /stʌd/, coat /ˈkoʊ̯t/, blade /bleɪd/, sand /sænd/, tape /teɪ̯p/
- /l/ final — a língua toca o céu da boca, não vira “u”: peel /piːl/, bubble /ˈbʌbəl/, tackle /ˈtækəl/, pencil /ˈpɛnsəl/, drywall /ˈdraɪˌwɔl/
- /h/ — um sopro suave, diferente do “r”: helpful /ˈhɛlp.fl̩/, hardware /ˈhɑɹdˌwɛɹ/, adhesive /ədˈhiː.sɪv/
Como praticar com este vídeo
- Ouça o vídeo inteiro uma vez sem falar e anote as palavras que você não conhece.
- Comece na velocidade 0,75×, faça shadowing frase por frase e volte à velocidade normal quando ficar fácil.
- Grave a sua voz e compare com o original, prestando atenção a palavras como patch, stud, knife.
O que é a Técnica de Shadowing?
Shadowing é uma técnica de aprendizado de idiomas com base científica, originalmente desenvolvida para o treinamento de intérpretes profissionais. O método é simples, mas poderoso: você ouve áudio em inglês nativo e repete imediatamente em voz alta — como uma sombra seguindo o falante com 1-2 segundos de atraso. Pesquisas mostram melhora significativa na precisão da pronúncia, entonação, ritmo, sons conectados, compreensão auditiva e fluência na fala.