Pratica di Shadowing: Fix your Trousers Fitting Issues | Body Specific Adjustments (Part 1) - Impara a parlare inglese con YouTube
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Hi everyone, my name is Nuria and this is Mastering Journey.
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Hi everyone, my name is Nuria and this is Mastering Journey.
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And for today's video, I'm bringing you something I've been working on for a long time and it's trouser fitting issues.
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There's a lot to cover,
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so I've decided to split the content into two different videos.
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One for body-specific issues, things that you can change before you make the first prototype.
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And a second video that is going to be once you have the first prototype
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and the second and the third and the etc. Things you can fix once you're in the prototyping phase.
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And if you want to know more about it,
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I have a cheat sheet with everything for both videos on my website.
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You can go and check it out.
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And if you're interested in learning everything you need to know to design trouser patterns,
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I'm writing an ebook and you can join the waitlist now to get notified when it comes out.
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But without further ado, let's get into the content of this video.
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First things first, we're going to look into the initial checks.
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These are things that you always have to check before doing your prototype or after you've made any change to your pattern.
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The first one is truing the side seams.
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You will have to check if the front and back side seams are the same length.
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If that's not the case,
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add a little bit to the shorter part
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and remove the same amount from the longer part and then you will have to make them equal.
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The second issue is the crotch length.
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Measure the crotch length of your body and compare it to the length of the pattern.
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The pattern should be at least equal or longer than your measurement.
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If that's not the case you will have to extend it.
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Depending on how much you have to extend you can cut through the hip line
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and add the length there or even add it to the waist
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but if it's too much then we'll get into the next video
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and I'll show you how to do it in the next video for the prototyping.
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The next issue is checking all the circumferences.
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To do that measure the upper thigh,
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the knee and the ankle circumferences of your body and compare them to the pattern.
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The measurements on the pattern should be a little bit bigger to account for movement ease.
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The ease will depend on the type of foundation you choose
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and the leg line of your design
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but they should always be at least two centimeters wider and if that's not the case just make them bigger.
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The next issue is going to be the grainline.
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The grainline is the middle division of the pants pattern and some modifications will require you to shift it.
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Always make sure that it's halfway along the crotch line.
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And the last issue is truing the curves.
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All the curved transitions should be smooth
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and to make sure that's the case align all the pieces
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and close the darts and redraw them and this stands for the waist and the crotch lines.
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And now that this is clear let's get into body specific issues.
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We're going to start at the waist.
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Different people have different postures and this can be accounted for in your pattern.
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The standard position is considered to be a perpendicular line from the floor with no back arch.
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From that posture we have the forward tilt and the backward tilt.
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The forward tilt is the most common one and the back is arched towards your tummy.
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This means your front pattern will need to be shorter than the standard.
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And to fix this issue do the following.
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First line up the pattern pieces.
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Second draw a horizontal line perpendicular to the grain line at hip level.
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Then check your side view to decide how much to remove.
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I would advise you not to remove the whole thing.
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It's always better to have more fabric than less when you are prototyping.
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And then finally remove the amount from the front and add it to the back.
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We do this because we want the crotch length to stay the same
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because if you did it at the beginning you check that the crotch length was the right amount.
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Now let's look into the backward tilt.
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You have a backward tilt if your back and shoulders are rounded towards the back.
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If this is the case,
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the back pattern will need to be shorter than the standard.
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To fix it, we'll follow exactly the same procedure
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but this time you'll reduce the amount from the back and add it to the front.
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This adjustment will probably cause the center front
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and the center back to be at a bigger angle than before which will cause issues somewhere else.
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If you want to fix this issue,
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go to the waist definition chapter for the front and to the bus shape chapter for the back.
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The next waist related issue is going to be your waist shaping
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and this is important to understand what the center front and the center back lines are going to be used for.
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If you have no waist definition,
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also called rectangular body shape,
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the center front line should be parallel to the grain line.
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If on the other hand you have a defined waist like an hourglass figure or prominent hips for example,
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the center front line should be at an angle.
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And in this chapter I also want to talk to you about the full belly adjustment.
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This adjustment is for people with prominent bellies or for ladies that are pregnant.
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And there's two ways of fixing this issue
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and it will depend on how much ease you have to add to the pattern.
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The first option is if you need up to one centimeter or three-eighths of an inch.
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If that's the case you can add the length vertically
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and horizontally to the center front and
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if on the other hand you need more than that you'll have to do the following.
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First draw a parallel line to the crotch line above the hip line and it doesn't really matter where.
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Second, connect this line to the side edge of the waistline.
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Then you'll have to draw another line that is perpendicular to the first one from the waist to the line.
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You can also use the darts but it's going to get confusing if you do that.
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Then cut through both lines up to the waist but not through the waist.
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Add as much ease as you need to the pattern
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and this will angle your center front line which we don't want because if you remember that's for the hourglass figure.
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So So to fix it,
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you'll have to use the second line to make it straight.
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And once you're done you can redraw all the lines and you're ready.
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As always it's easier to have more fabric than less.
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And what you can do is also combine option one and option two.
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Now let's move into the butt adjustments.
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Here we also have two different adjustments.
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The first one is how to fix the pattern for a low butt.
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You have a low butt if your widest part around the hips sits below the crotch line.
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The standard pattern looks like this.
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The crotch length doesn't cross your crotch line,
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but for a low butt your curve should cross that crotch line.
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To fix it just redraw the curve and lower it a bit at a time during the prototyping phase.
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When you do this adjustment it is very possible that the horizontal space gets reduced.
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This means we have to correct that issue.
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To do that draw a line where the curve starts and measure the difference between both lines.
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Then add that width to the crotch extension and the pattern is ready.
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It is very important to understand that this fitting issue will fix the position of your butt but not the shape.
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Let's look at how to modify the pattern to accommodate for the shape.
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To make it simple we're going to define three different shapes.
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The flat butt, the standard and the prominent.
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If we look at how the pattern would look like you can see
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that what changes here is the space in between the patterns.
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So let's see how to move from one to another one.
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For a flat butt we'll have to reduce the space.
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To do it, add the needed length to the center back and reduce the same length from the side back.
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We do it this way because the horizontal length of the pattern is already correct and you don't want to modify it.
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I advise you to reduce one centimeter at a time also.
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And for a prominent butt we'll do the opposite, we will add space.
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To do that there's two options.
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Option number one is to add the extra length to the crotch extension.
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This will change the horizontal length of the pattern around your thighs
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and if you have small thighs there might be too much extra fabric for you.
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If you have small thighs what you can do is the opposite we did for the flat butt
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so you move the center back line towards the side seam and add that same length to the side seam.
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We're almost done let's move to the last two body specific adjustments.
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These two adjustments have to do with your leg line.
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The first that we're going to look into is if you have a prominent inner thigh or a knee.
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A good way of knowing if you have a prominent thigh is
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if when you walk your thighs touch each other and the trousers that are slim fitting are uncomfortable in that area.
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Most of the times the length of the pattern is correct
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but it's not in the right place
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so what we're going to do for this adjustment is move it so it actually is in the right place.
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This adjustment is done both at the front and at the back
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but more at the back because you have more space to work with
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so in this example I'm going to be showing the back
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and also for this adjustment you should be adding one to two centimeters no more because then the pattern loses its shape.
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Let's see how to do it.
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First draw a horizontal line below the crotch line.
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Then mark the grain line.
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Next step is going to be cut through the line
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and move the bottom piece of the pattern the amount you want to fix.
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I wouldn't do more than one centimeter at a time.
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Use the grain line to know how much you moved it
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and finally redraw the leg lines to fit the pattern by adding to the center and removing from the side seam.
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And now let's look into prominent cuffs.
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You probably have a prominent calf
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if the fabric is always tight around your calf with a little bit of extra fabric below your knee.
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There's two ways of fixing this issue
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but one of them I will leave it for the prototyping phase
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because it has more to do with how you see the fabric behaving
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but let's look at how to fix it before the prototype.
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In this option will basically add a little bit of length to the pattern at calf level.
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To do it, first draw the grain line,
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then connect the grain line to the knee line,
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cut through the lines but not through the knee points,
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and add the amount you need.
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You can leave the fix here,
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but this will add flare to the bottom of your hem,
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and if you don't want to change the leg line at all,
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then I would advise you to do the following.
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Draw two perpendicular lines to the grain line and cut through them
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but not through the grainline
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and use these lines to correct the hem back to being straight
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and with that we're done with the body specific issues don't forget
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that fixing one thing will potentially create another issue
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and always always always it's better to have more fabric than less fabric
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when prototyping
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and also always remember to do all the checks we talked
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about at the beginning after doing all these modifications you might think there's other issues like having a slayback
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or an asymmetrical body, all these things,
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I'm going to add them in the next video because as I said,
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they have more to do of how the fabric behaves once you've done your prototype.
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But if you think that I'm missing any specific body issue,
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then also please let me know in the comments.
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And as I said, if you don't want to wait for the next video,
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you have the cheat sheet on my website and I'll link it down below.
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But that's everything for today.
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I hope this was useful.
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This video was long time in the making and I'm really,
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really, really excited that I finally got it out.
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Trust me I know how frustrating it can be drafting your
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own trouser patterns I think I've done like 2 000 prototypes
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but I promise you it's all worth it because
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if you look at me at the moment I'm only wearing trousers
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that I made myself and I cannot tell you enough how proud I am
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and how happy I am every day
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that I get to wear my own mix so hang in there and I'll see you in the next one bye
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Le 5 Frasi Fondamentali per la Comunicazione Quotidiana
- "Controlla se le cuciture laterali sono lunghe uguali." - Un'espressione comunemente usata quando si parla di misure.
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Guida Passo dopo Passo per il Shadowing
Per migliorare il tuo inglese attraverso la tecnica del shadowing, seguendo video come quello di Nuria, segui questi semplici passi:
- Seleziona un video: Trova video che contengano contenuti pratici, come questo sulle modifiche di vestibilità. Puoi imparare l'inglese con YouTube cercando argomenti che ti interessano.
- Ascolta e Comprendi: Prima di provare il shadowing, ascolta attentamente il video. Presta attenzione alle frasi e alla pronuncia.
- Ripeti in tempo reale: Inizia a ripetere le frasi che ascolti. Concentrati sulla pronuncia e sul ritmo, utilizzando il metodo del shadow speech.
- Pausa e Rivedi: Fai delle pause spesso per rielaborare e migliorare la tua pronuncia. Non esitare a tornare indietro su parti che trovi difficili.
- Pratica Regolarmente: Integra il shadowing nella tua routine quotidiana. Più pratichi, più migliorerai, specialmente nella comunicazione verbale.
Implementare queste tecniche non solo aiuterà a padroneggiare l'inglese, ma anche a migliorare le tue abilità nel comprendere e discutere contenuti pratici in vari ambiti. Buona pratica!
Cos'è la tecnica dello Shadowing?
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