쉐도잉 연습: Hangboarding Twice Per Day For 2 Years | ft. Emil Abrahamsson - 영상으로 영어 말하기 배우기

연습 모드 선택

각 모드는 전체 화면 연습실로 열립니다.

124 문장

문장이 너무 짧거나 길면 Edit를 눌러 조정하세요.

this hangboard protocol that we talked about in the last podcast, like two years ago, is kind of my recruitment protocol nowadays.

So I do that six weeks in advance and it quite quickly, for anybody listening, I guess I could clarify what I meant by that.

The no hang protocol is a protocol that I do two times per day, where I just gently load my fingers.

So I'm not pushing them as you would do on like a max hang session or anything like that.

I'm just kind of tugging a bit on holds for 10 minutes.

and what it's definitely done for me is helped recruit a lot of my my muscle fibers

and just get my body more like ready to climb i guess

and when i was when i was doing

that in preparation for the trip it was pretty apparent

that as soon as i started that my body got used to the new weight

i like to climb with that new weight well that's that's fascinating

because you're doing that protocol with your feet on the ground right

and you're just taking like a percentage of your your weight

so that's yeah that's really interesting that doing

that allowed you to adjust to the new weight

so you just it sounds like periodically you still come back to that protocol

and you'll just do it for 30 days yeah exactly i

do it for about six weeks before any form of like performance type thing

so if it's a competition or some some climb

that i want to do outdoors or so i i always try

and plan for like six weeks of

that yeah okay um yeah do you feel like you've gotten long-term gains from doing

that or is it just like a shorter term kind of tune-up like what do you think is happening there

so i think um it's definitely a short-term tune-up like you

can't have i don't think you can have really progressive overload of any sort with

that like you can't get much stronger fingers.

But I think for people who can't like when you can't climb very, very often.

So for me, for instance, I'm editing a lot.

So I'm in front of the computer for like 10 hours a day.

And I try and squeeze in as much.

Like I have a pretty flexible schedule so I can climb quite regularly as I want.

But when I'm sitting still so much, I think this protocol helps me just kind of rewire my body.

So like every six hours, it's good for it to get used to movement of some sort.

And I think the finger part of that movement is the most important to the climbing.

so that's why I think it works so well for me for instance

and I don't think it's I think it's good to do

it for like 46 weeks that's definitely what I believe my

brother's kept on doing it for two years straight now

and he's just like he's just feeling healthy in his fingers from it

which is his benefits and I do still feel that benefit but

if I'm doing it like as a person I have a hard time like just doing it for healthy fingers

if my fingers aren't or if they're already healthy

so i i have more of like a goal with it

which is like i want to get slightly stronger fingers i want to get them working again

but every time that i do it my finger strength definitely goes back up again

and i feel much more comfortable hanging on a hangboard and just climbing on the wall

to pull harder yeah yeah have you heard of greasing the groove are you familiar with that Yeah, yeah, yeah.

Yeah.

I think that's what it is.

Does that make sense to you?

I feel like, I feel like it's this grease in the groove thing where you're just, this is like a phrase from weightlifting where, um, rather than training heavy.

Um, I think, I think I learned this from Pavel Tzatzulin, the Russian kettlebell guy, but he'll just do like, you know, a little bit of volume throughout the day,

kind of every day and just kind of recruit, just get that, Just get that wiring between your brain and those muscles like super,

super, I guess, dialed in or coded or whatever for the movement that you're doing.

Yeah, kinda.

Yeah, I definitely, I think so too.

I think that's kind of where it all comes from.

It's just reminding your body what you're doing kind of.

Yeah.

That's fascinating.

That's something you still do and you do it for four to six weeks is

that like right before like the last thing you do before a performance phase yeah you could say

so yeah yeah i mean it's like i was doing it

from early november until we left in the middle of december

so those six weeks when i was still training pretty intensely

but kind of like okay now i'm gonna start getting to

the peak of the training phase of like trying to build all of this

and trying to become stronger

and then i just kept going with the same intensity of the no hangs for the entire duration

but at the end of

that cycle just before we left i was doing much shorter sessions on the on the kilter board

and the spray wall i'm curious about your fingers

so you know story of two worlds um obviously it's it's hard enough

that it has a very fingery element to it

because everything v15 you know in that range is very fingery or demands a high degree of finger strength.

But it seems more squeezy, maybe body power, things like that.

But then the fact that you went back to off the wagon,

like we teased earlier, and that's a problem that you seem obsessed with and you had set simulators of it and stuff.

And that one arm campus through move was something that was maybe doable, but hard for you.

And you came back and it just seems like you just smashed it and it seemed easy.

So that's a real testament to just pure raw finger strength gains.

Yeah, like off the wagon was such a great experience.

I'm so happy I went there

because at the time I was like slightly obsessing of story of two worlds like I was gonna do it.

And then there was this day where the conditions weren't great.

So I was like, well, I don't want to spend too much energy here.

Like I have a lot of other things

that I want to try on this trip and I don't want to get too sucked in.

So we moved over to off the wagon.

And the thing is, this finger strength element is the thing that often in weight becomes the question, right?

Like, oh, can you be heavy and have strong fingers?

And that's where it became so apparent that, yes, you can.

You can have strong fingers.

I just hopped on the campus move and did it right away.

It felt incredibly easy.

I did it like four or five times in a row, just every single go.

100

Which, relative to when I tried it the year before at 76, I was working on it for maybe two hours that session.

101

and I like you could argue I got close

102

but I never even like held a swing at all in the jug

103

so the it was a shocking difference in strength on

104

that older actually like there was like okay something's happened

105

because it's it's hard to confirm like yes I set those benchmarks in November

106

that I talked about earlier and I knew to a degree

107

that I was stronger but like you're saying

108

if it's i had never tried story of two worlds on a previous trip

109

so it wasn't really i couldn't say like oh i've definitely gotten better

110

because i couldn't really put it to the test on anything um

111

but then on off the wagon

112

that was kind of like my okay it's cemented like i'm

113

gonna continue doing this type of training for the next season which i'm doing right now

114

and like this works for me um that's awesome i think i think finger strength is

115

when you're when you're that's the thing though i think

116

when you're first gaining weight and you're trying to kind of bulk up

117

if you're taking creatine or just eating more

118

or whatever you do feel a slight decline

119

and you think like oh dang i'm losing the most important aspect to my climbing

120

because finger strength is the most important aspect to climbing in

121

my from my perspective like there are of course elements to climbing

122

when it's not the most important but generally speaking

123

if you don't have the finger strength you can't apply any power

124

or technique or anything else like you do need to be able to hold on to the holds to climb

앱 다운로드

유창하게 말하는 데 필요한 모든 것

AI 발음 평가문장마다 점수 확인

IPA 발음 연습모든 소리 마스터

단어 학습나만의 단어장 만들기

단어 게임놀면서 외우기

QR 스캔

Download on theApp Store Get it onGoogle Play

같은 채널

FOR YOU

쉐도잉이란? 영어 실력을 빠르게 키우는 과학적 방법

쉐도잉(Shadowing)은 원래 전문 통역사 훈련을 위해 개발된 언어 학습 기법으로, 다언어 학자인 Dr. Alexander Arguelles에 의해 대중화된 방법입니다. 핵심 원리는 간단하지만 매우 강력합니다: 원어민의 영어를 들으면서 1~2초의 짧은 지연으로 즉시 소리 내어 따라 말하는 것——마치 '그림자(shadow)'처럼 화자를 따라가는 것입니다. 문법 공부나 수동적인 청취와 달리, 쉐도잉은 뇌와 입 근육이 동시에 실시간으로 영어를 처리하고 재현하도록 훈련합니다. 연구에 따르면 이 방법은 발음 정확도, 억양, 리듬, 연음, 청취력, 말하기 유창성을 크게 향상시킵니다. IELTS 스피킹 준비와 자연스러운 영어 소통을 원하는 분들에게 특히 효과적입니다.

섀도잉 방법: 단계별 전체 가이드 읽기 →

쉐도잉 연습: Hangboarding Twice Per Day For 2 Years | ft. Emil Abrahamsson - 영상으로 영어 말하기 배우기

연습 모드 선택

앱 다운로드

같은 채널

Why the Best Sport Climbers Dominate Bouldering Too | ft. Adam Ondra

I met Adam Ondra and HE BLEW MY MIND

Adam Ondra on The Monster That Fuels His Success

추천 영상

12 Micro Habits That Will Improve Your Life in the Next 6 Months

Hany Reacts | The Jay Cutler Video I Haven't Watched in YEARS... Until Now

Rubik's Cube: How to Develop FASTER Turning Speed!

What Happens To Your Body When You Start Exercising Regularly | The Human Body

Spring Bulk Day 221 - Back and Full Day of Eating

Training W/ Real Life Vampire (Anti-aging)

Unfortunately, Getting Lean Really Is This Simple

Full Body vs. Push Pull Legs: Which Split Builds More Muscle? | Mind Pump 2845

I Built The World's Most Scientific Gym

How Training Tendons Makes You Stronger Than Big Guys

how I journal to have my life together (simple & efficient)

이 레슨을 통해 연습할 내용

주요 어휘 및 구문

연습 팁 (쉐도잉을 위한 조언)

쉐도잉이란? 영어 실력을 빠르게 키우는 과학적 방법