Prática de Shadowing: Hangboarding Twice Per Day For 2 Years | ft. Emil Abrahamsson - Aprenda a falar inglês com vídeo
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this hangboard protocol that we talked about in the last podcast, like two years ago, is kind of my recruitment protocol nowadays.
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So I do that six weeks in advance and it quite quickly, for anybody listening, I guess I could clarify what I meant by that.
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The no hang protocol is a protocol that I do two times per day, where I just gently load my fingers.
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So I'm not pushing them as you would do on like a max hang session or anything like that.
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I'm just kind of tugging a bit on holds for 10 minutes.
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and what it's definitely done for me is helped recruit a lot of my my muscle fibers
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and just get my body more like ready to climb i guess
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and when i was when i was doing
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that in preparation for the trip it was pretty apparent
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that as soon as i started that my body got used to the new weight
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i like to climb with that new weight well that's that's fascinating
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because you're doing that protocol with your feet on the ground right
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and you're just taking like a percentage of your your weight
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so that's yeah that's really interesting that doing
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that allowed you to adjust to the new weight
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so you just it sounds like periodically you still come back to that protocol
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and you'll just do it for 30 days yeah exactly i
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do it for about six weeks before any form of like performance type thing
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so if it's a competition or some some climb
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that i want to do outdoors or so i i always try
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and plan for like six weeks of
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that yeah okay um yeah do you feel like you've gotten long-term gains from doing
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that or is it just like a shorter term kind of tune-up like what do you think is happening there
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so i think um it's definitely a short-term tune-up like you
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can't have i don't think you can have really progressive overload of any sort with
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that like you can't get much stronger fingers.
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But I think for people who can't like when you can't climb very, very often.
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So for me, for instance, I'm editing a lot.
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So I'm in front of the computer for like 10 hours a day.
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And I try and squeeze in as much.
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Like I have a pretty flexible schedule so I can climb quite regularly as I want.
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But when I'm sitting still so much, I think this protocol helps me just kind of rewire my body.
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So like every six hours, it's good for it to get used to movement of some sort.
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And I think the finger part of that movement is the most important to the climbing.
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so that's why I think it works so well for me for instance
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and I don't think it's I think it's good to do
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it for like 46 weeks that's definitely what I believe my
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brother's kept on doing it for two years straight now
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and he's just like he's just feeling healthy in his fingers from it
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which is his benefits and I do still feel that benefit but
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if I'm doing it like as a person I have a hard time like just doing it for healthy fingers
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if my fingers aren't or if they're already healthy
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so i i have more of like a goal with it
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which is like i want to get slightly stronger fingers i want to get them working again
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but every time that i do it my finger strength definitely goes back up again
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and i feel much more comfortable hanging on a hangboard and just climbing on the wall
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to pull harder yeah yeah have you heard of greasing the groove are you familiar with that Yeah, yeah, yeah.
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Yeah.
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Yeah.
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Yeah.
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Yeah.
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I think that's what it is.
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Does that make sense to you?
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I feel like, I feel like it's this grease in the groove thing where you're just, this is like a phrase from weightlifting where, um, rather than training heavy.
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Um, I think, I think I learned this from Pavel Tzatzulin, the Russian kettlebell guy, but he'll just do like, you know, a little bit of volume throughout the day,
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kind of every day and just kind of recruit, just get that, Just get that wiring between your brain and those muscles like super,
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super, I guess, dialed in or coded or whatever for the movement that you're doing.
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Yeah, kinda.
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Yeah, I definitely, I think so too.
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I think that's kind of where it all comes from.
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It's just reminding your body what you're doing kind of.
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Yeah.
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That's fascinating.
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That's something you still do and you do it for four to six weeks is
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that like right before like the last thing you do before a performance phase yeah you could say
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so yeah yeah i mean it's like i was doing it
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from early november until we left in the middle of december
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so those six weeks when i was still training pretty intensely
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but kind of like okay now i'm gonna start getting to
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the peak of the training phase of like trying to build all of this
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and trying to become stronger
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and then i just kept going with the same intensity of the no hangs for the entire duration
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but at the end of
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that cycle just before we left i was doing much shorter sessions on the on the kilter board
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and the spray wall i'm curious about your fingers
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so you know story of two worlds um obviously it's it's hard enough
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that it has a very fingery element to it
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because everything v15 you know in that range is very fingery or demands a high degree of finger strength.
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But it seems more squeezy, maybe body power, things like that.
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But then the fact that you went back to off the wagon,
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like we teased earlier, and that's a problem that you seem obsessed with and you had set simulators of it and stuff.
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And that one arm campus through move was something that was maybe doable, but hard for you.
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And you came back and it just seems like you just smashed it and it seemed easy.
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So that's a real testament to just pure raw finger strength gains.
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Yeah, like off the wagon was such a great experience.
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I'm so happy I went there
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because at the time I was like slightly obsessing of story of two worlds like I was gonna do it.
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And then there was this day where the conditions weren't great.
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So I was like, well, I don't want to spend too much energy here.
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Like I have a lot of other things
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that I want to try on this trip and I don't want to get too sucked in.
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So we moved over to off the wagon.
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And the thing is, this finger strength element is the thing that often in weight becomes the question, right?
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Like, oh, can you be heavy and have strong fingers?
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And that's where it became so apparent that, yes, you can.
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You can have strong fingers.
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I just hopped on the campus move and did it right away.
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It felt incredibly easy.
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I did it like four or five times in a row, just every single go.
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Which, relative to when I tried it the year before at 76, I was working on it for maybe two hours that session.
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and I like you could argue I got close
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but I never even like held a swing at all in the jug
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so the it was a shocking difference in strength on
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that older actually like there was like okay something's happened
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because it's it's hard to confirm like yes I set those benchmarks in November
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that I talked about earlier and I knew to a degree
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that I was stronger but like you're saying
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if it's i had never tried story of two worlds on a previous trip
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so it wasn't really i couldn't say like oh i've definitely gotten better
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because i couldn't really put it to the test on anything um
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but then on off the wagon
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that was kind of like my okay it's cemented like i'm
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gonna continue doing this type of training for the next season which i'm doing right now
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and like this works for me um that's awesome i think i think finger strength is
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when you're when you're that's the thing though i think
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when you're first gaining weight and you're trying to kind of bulk up
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if you're taking creatine or just eating more
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or whatever you do feel a slight decline
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and you think like oh dang i'm losing the most important aspect to my climbing
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because finger strength is the most important aspect to climbing in
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my from my perspective like there are of course elements to climbing
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when it's not the most important but generally speaking
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if you don't have the finger strength you can't apply any power
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or technique or anything else like you do need to be able to hold on to the holds to climb
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Para quem é este vídeo?
Este vídeo é ideal para aprendizes de inglês intermediários e avançados que querem aprimorar a compreensão de conversas informais e técnicas, além de praticar o shadow speak. Se seus objetivos incluem dominar termos relacionados a esportes (especificamente escalada) e expressões coloquiais, ele é perfeito. A linguagem é fluida, com diálogos naturais, o que o torna excelente para quem quer aprender inglês com YouTube de forma prática.
Palavras e expressões para usar no dia a dia
- Protocol: Método ou rotina. No vídeo, refere-se a uma rotina de treino. Exemplo: "Seguir um protocolo diário ajuda na consistência".
- Tugging: Puxar suavemente. Usado para descrever o movimento de puxar as mãos em holds de escalada. Exemplo: "Ele estava tugging a corda com cuidado".
- Progressive overload: Carga progressiva. Termo esportivo para aumentar gradualmente a intensidade do treino. Exemplo: "A progressive overload é chave para ganhar força".
- Greasing the groove: Expressão coloquial que significa praticar uma habilidade repetidamente de forma leve para melhorar a performance. Exemplo: "Fazer exercícios leves diariamente é como greasing the groove".
Como acertar o sotaque neste vídeo
O falante tem um sotaque sueco, com características como a redução de vogais longas e uma entonação mais plana. Para praticar o shadow speech, preste atenção a: - A pronúncia de "protocol" (pró-toc-ol), com o destaque na primeira sílaba. - A palavra "fascinating" (fás-si-nen-ting), onde o "a" é curto. - A entonação nas perguntas, que costuma subir no final, mas no vídeo é mais suave. Repita frases como "Do you feel like you've gotten long-term gains?" imitando o ritmo e a intensidade. Isso ajudará a adaptar o ouvido e a fala a sotaques não nativos, um passo crucial no aprendizado de inglês.
O que é a Técnica de Shadowing?
Shadowing é uma técnica de aprendizado de idiomas com base científica, originalmente desenvolvida para o treinamento de intérpretes profissionais. O método é simples, mas poderoso: você ouve áudio em inglês nativo e repete imediatamente em voz alta — como uma sombra seguindo o falante com 1-2 segundos de atraso. Pesquisas mostram melhora significativa na precisão da pronúncia, entonação, ritmo, sons conectados, compreensão auditiva e fluência na fala.