Prática de Shadowing: I met Adam Ondra and HE BLEW MY MIND - Aprenda a falar inglês com vídeo
Escolha um modo de prática
Cada modo abre uma sala de prática em tela cheia.
191 frases
Se as frases estiverem muito curtas ou longas, clique em Edit para ajustá-las.
1
So I would not expect you to remember this, but we've actually met before.
2
And it was November 10th, 2018.
3
The reason I know that date is because it was the day that you onsited Just Do It.
4
And I used to live in Oregon.
5
I lived in Oregon for many years and Smith Rock was my home crag for about seven years.
6
And when you were in town, I was projecting Badman, that route in the AgroGully.
7
And I remember hearing that you were around
8
and I didn't want to go out there
9
and like try to find you because I was sure you were getting way too much attention already.
10
And I just want to let you, you know, like have a good time and enjoy Smith Rock.
11
But it was a Saturday.
12
So I was out climbing with my friend Paul.
13
We warmed up on the front side and went up into the aggro gully.
14
And there you were.
15
And you were so friendly.
16
You had just onsided bad man as your warmup, which I thought was totally amazing.
17
And we chatted with you for a bit.
18
And I remember you asked us if we knew
19
if anyone was back at the monkey
20
because you were going to go try just do it
21
and you asked us if we could come back to belay just in case you needed a belay.
22
Of course, we couldn't say no to that.
23
So we followed you back there, and Ian Caldwell was back there, like the sheriff of Smith Rock, so he was already on belay duty, which was perfect.
24
So Paul and I just got to sit back and watch as you onsighted Just Do It.
25
And I have to say, man, I mean, that was many years ago, and I've witnessed a lot of hard rock climbing in person in my life,
26
but that still to this day was the most amazing thing I've ever seen.
27
It was so exciting.
28
I couldn't believe you were on sighting.
29
I kept having to remind myself as you were going up like the start pitch, you know, that like 8B or 8B plus start pitch.
30
I was like, he looks like he's red pointing.
31
I can't believe he's never climbed this before.
32
He's just so confident and smooth.
33
It was freezing back there that day.
34
It was like 40 degrees Fahrenheit and super windy in the shade.
35
and you decided to go for it anyway.
36
I think I might have been one of the people that tried to talk you out of it.
37
I was like, it's so cold, dude.
38
It was so cold.
39
But yeah, I mean, again, it was just the most exciting and engaging thing, just the sounds that you were making in the crux,
40
the way that the sounds were echoing around that little amphitheater up there with all these people watching, and it was just dead silent.
41
And then I remember, and I'm getting to questions, promise but the thing that i most wanted to ask you about when i thought about interviewing you
42
i just it was amazing to see your reaction when you clip the chains because
43
you know you'd already on sighted like 20 ac pluses
44
or something and multiple 9as
45
so this wasn't like a cutting edge hardest thing you'd ever done
46
but again like i i don't think i've ever seen a human more excited about anything than you were
47
when you clip the chains of just do it and you're not American.
48
So I was just like, what?
49
Obviously, you're a student of climbing and you love climbing history and you'd been talking to Alan Watts and all these things.
50
But I just wanted to hear about your history with that route and why it was so special for you.
51
Because, yeah, again, you were just so excited.
52
It didn't make sense given that that was your 20th or 24th or whatever, you know, 8C plus or harder on-site.
53
It was so cool to see.
54
I mean, 8C plus on-site is still quite a bit big.
55
Yeah, of course.
56
It's not going to be boring. Of course.
57
Ever, I would say.
58
But I don't think there is any other just do it in the world.
59
now in terms of like how special and awesome looking line it is
60
and also given the history of it and maybe the circumstances of the day
61
when I knew it was going to be way too cold
62
but I was very deliberate in the choice of the day from the week that we got to spend there
63
and that was the warmest day so
64
and I knew I really wanted to try that day
65
so all of this together I think resulted in me being
66
so happy for send and of course also knowing
67
that the album was there I don't I don't even think
68
it's like it's It's definitely not super difficult for HC Plus either.
69
It's just the history, the line, and the climbing, and the presence of AlbumWodz that made it so special.
70
If you find videos like this helpful, I put together a free masterclass on how to unlock your full potential in climbing,
71
where I share some of the best nuggets I've learned from interviewing the best climbers in the world.
72
It's for any climber who wants to improve, and it'll help you take your climbing to the next level.
73
link in the description below if you want to check it out.
74
I interviewed Alan many years ago.
75
He was actually one of my first interviews.
76
He was episode four on the podcast.
77
Still one of my all-time favorite ones that I've done because I'd climbed a lot of his roots.
78
And of course, you know, Smith Rock was my home at the time.
79
And we talked about that day.
80
We talked about you and he was surprised that you knew who he was.
81
And then, you know, he was honored to connect with you.
82
And then he ended up in your book
83
and you sent him a copy of your book with your signature and all this stuff. So cool.
84
Do you remember when you first learned about Just Do It and about Smith Rock?
85
Was it in the magazines in the Czech Republic growing up?
86
So it was from the book called Rockstars from Austrian photographer Heinz Czak.
87
So the book was released in 1995
88
and for some reason in our country in those times I think it felt like everybody had it.
89
So my parents didn't have it, but my mother's best friend had it.
90
And she lent it to me when I was, I think, seven.
91
Then I had it for quite many years.
92
Wow.
93
From before I got my personal copy.
94
Because it had been unavailable for years.
95
And then they made a reprint.
96
So, Rockstars, you have articles,
97
not really interviews, but mostly written articles by Heinz about the best climbers in history,
98
mostly sport climbers, a bit of a boulder.
99
And yeah, Smith Rock was obviously there.
100
So was Jibe Troubault in there actually on the line?
101
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Of course.
102
Yeah.
103
Wow, that's amazing.
104
At seven years old...
105
But the Just Do It photo is not included there it there
106
but I think the Jibetribu wife is to the Scarface 8B next to it is it called Scarface?
107
Oh on Monkeyface?
108
Eastface crack.
109
Yeah, Eastface monkeyface.
110
Yeah, yeah, yeah, Eastface crack.
111
Yeah, another amazing line.
112
Man, that's so crazy.
113
At seven years old I was like collecting Legos
114
and i don't know what else i was doing
115
but it definitely i wasn't like i think i was still collecting collecting legos as well oh were you okay
116
so yeah i was gonna ask
117
that like what were your other interests as a kid like
118
were you just i mean it seems like climbing consumed you from such an early age
119
and it's just i think the thing that really sets you apart is
120
that level of passion
121
that just seems to be undying it seems like you you're
122
never not psyched it's oh you're kind of shaking your head or shrugging?
123
No, no, no. I think it's unfortunate from that perspective.
124
Yes.
125
I'm not saying I'm always 100% motivated, but most of the times I'm very motivated.
126
And yeah, sending hard climbs,
127
I think a lot of people might actually be disappointed when they finally send their big project that,
128
okay, maybe the experience and the level of happiness
129
that they are getting out of it is not wasn't really worth it maybe
130
but for me it's like it's just really great
131
actually question myself oh was it really worth it
132
or not well i i maybe i tend to question myself
133
while i'm working on a project if it's worth it
134
or not whether i should just you know climb something else
135
and maybe enjoy myself more through the process but
136
when i was a little kid i think i I was always quite focused on one single thing.
137
So earlier, I think, so more or less the age of Hugo when I was three,
138
I was really into the cars and I was trying to learn every single brand that there was.
139
So I was able to recognize it.
140
And then I was really involved in geography.
141
I really enjoyed memorizing all the capitals and flags and stuff like this.
142
So actually when I was seven years old, it was kind of the time when my geography interest turned into climbing interest.
143
Yeah, there's nice overlap there.
144
From then, it was mostly just climbing.
145
Yeah.
146
And it was just the time that I was able to read, so I could read magazines and these books rock stars all over again.
147
I remember seeing or reading somewhere that when you were a kid, your parents built a little campus wall
148
and you had like a campus board in your room
149
and then there was like holds connecting the two campus boards across the ceiling and stuff.
150
And you would tell me about that.
151
Is that like how you moved around your house as a kid?
152
Is that the key to becoming Adam Andra?
153
I mean, at a certain point, I would start climbing all the time in our apartment on everything that I could see.
154
And the fact that I was climbing on some things, my parents were not really happy.
155
So first, they set me like a really small section of the wall.
156
just like you know let's imagine like big fingerboard around just above the door
157
and in one or two years it grow a little bit bigger there's adding more and more holes i wouldn't
158
like me a beta was actually training there it more meant that i never took rest days so
159
doing something on my on my wall mostly just like resetting it
160
so imagine it was sort of like a spray wall
161
and it didn't really have that many holes so I think I would like reset it every week or something.
162
Wow, how old were you?
163
7-8.
164
Wow, that's an early introduction to spray wall climbing that's so cool and no shoes were allowed right?
165
It was like socks or barefoot?
166
The rule by my mother was no shoes because the wall was white
167
and she really wanted for it to remain nice and white
168
so I was barefoot and choking up was only possible in the bathroom.
169
So I didn't really mind.
170
I think that climbing barefoot made it even more interesting.
171
Man, I wonder if your mom had any inkling that you would become you, you know?
172
Like did she see the potential and did she think you'd be the...
173
I think maybe when I was eight, I think already maybe yes.
174
I think I was quite unique for my age.
175
So I think I was on sighting 7B+, which right now is maybe not that special, but back then it was really special.
176
I also remember learning that you had stuffed animals and you made little harnesses for them.
177
And you would take them climbing in air quotes.
178
Absolutely.
179
I actually found again the guidebook that I made for my animals.
180
It was a little dog and a big.
181
So I would like paint like sections of our apartment and I would just you know
182
made the lines and come up with the names and give it a certain grade.
183
and so I would like reckon you know the little dog is like 170 175 centimeters
184
so you know so like a really long route for a dog would be like 30 meters
185
and stuff like this and paradoxically the ultimate grade
186
that my little dog has ever reached was a 9c oh wow okay what Describe the 9C.
187
Was that like...
188
A total roof.
189
A total roof, okay.
190
A 45-meter total roof.
191
No knee bars, though.
Baixar aplicativo
Tudo o que você precisa para falar fluentemente
Pronúncia com IANota em cada frase
Prática de IPADomine cada som
VocabulárioMonte seu banco de palavras
Jogo de vocabulárioAprenda brincando
Mesmo canal
FOR YOU
Vídeo recomendado
B21
325 frases
I've NEVER Seen A Climb This Hard.. And Nobody Talks About It
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
B22
20 frases
Kurdt Vanderhoof of Metal Church shares his thoughts on opening for Metallica
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
B21
106 frases
give me 7 min and i'll make you a completely different person...
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
B22
69 frases
Santana's Acid Trip
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
B21
37 frases
Bobby Rondinelli
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
B21
172 frases
They HATED Me in MARSOC Assessment & Selection… But THIS Saved Me
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
B2426 frases
Nick Mohammed’s WHOLESOME Ride With Joe Wilkinson | Train-ing It | Channel 4
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
B21
144 frases
Made of Grit | An Appalachian Trail Film Documentary
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
B21
243 frases
World's Tallest Elephant Toothpaste Volcano
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
B21
77 frases
Joe Rogan on Striking Specialists in MMA
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
B21
50 frases
Brian Johnson & AC/DC: The Definitive Story Of How He Joined The Best Band In The World
Daily ConversationWorking Adults
Sobre esta lição
Nesta prática, você vai mergulhar em uma conversa informal sobre escalada, focada em melhorar a compreensão de falas naturais e a pronúncia. A lição utiliza um diálogo repleto de detalhes pessoais e expressões coloquiais, perfeita para treinar o shadowing e a fluência em situações reais. Você aprenderá a capturar nuances de entusiasmo e descrições vívidas, essenciais para a prática de conversação em inglês.
Vocabulário e frases-chave
- Onsighted: Termo técnico em escalada que significa completar uma rota sem ter visto ninguém fazê-la antes. Exemplo: "He onsighted Just Do It".
- Projecting: Tentar repetidamente uma rota difícil até dominá-la. Exemplo: "I was projecting Badman".
- Belay: Ação de segurar a corda para proteger o escalador. Exemplo: "We could come back to belay".
- Crux: A parte mais difícil de uma rota. Exemplo: "The sounds that you were making in the crux".
- Clip the chains: Finalizar uma rota, conectando a corda aos anéis no topo. Exemplo: "Your reaction when you clip the chains".
Dicas de prática
Para treinar o shadowing com este vídeo, siga estes passos: Primeiro, ouça o áudio uma vez para entender o contexto. Em seguida, repita frases curtas imediatamente após o falante, focando na velocidade e no tom entusiástico. O diálogo tem uma cadência natural, com pausas para detalhes, o que ajuda a adaptar-se a conversas reais. Use um shadowing site para gravar sua voz e comparar com o original, observando a entonação nos momentos de excitação, como quando o narrador descreve o final da rota. Pratique diariamente por 10 minutos, escolhendo trechos diferentes cada vez, para melhorar a fluência e a confiança. Lembre-se: o shadowspeak é uma técnica eficaz para internalizar a pronúncia e a estrutura das frases, tornando sua fala mais natural na prática de conversação em inglês.
Gramática neste vídeo
As estruturas que o falante mais usa, com as palavras exatas do vídeo:
| Estrutura | No vídeo |
|---|---|
| Present perfect have/has + particípio passado — uma ação passada que ainda importa agora | we've actually met · I've witnessed · I've ever seen |
| Voz passiva be + particípio passado — o foco está no que acontece, não em quem faz | was honored · was released · is not included |
O que é a Técnica de Shadowing?
Shadowing é uma técnica de aprendizado de idiomas com base científica, originalmente desenvolvida para o treinamento de intérpretes profissionais. O método é simples, mas poderoso: você ouve áudio em inglês nativo e repete imediatamente em voz alta — como uma sombra seguindo o falante com 1-2 segundos de atraso. Pesquisas mostram melhora significativa na precisão da pronúncia, entonação, ritmo, sons conectados, compreensão auditiva e fluência na fala.