Pratique du Shadowing: I met Adam Ondra and HE BLEW MY MIND - Apprendre l'anglais à l'oral avec la vidéo
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191 phrases
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So I would not expect you to remember this, but we've actually met before.
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And it was November 10th, 2018.
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The reason I know that date is because it was the day that you onsited Just Do It.
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And I used to live in Oregon.
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I lived in Oregon for many years and Smith Rock was my home crag for about seven years.
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And when you were in town, I was projecting Badman, that route in the AgroGully.
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And I remember hearing that you were around
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and I didn't want to go out there
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and like try to find you because I was sure you were getting way too much attention already.
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And I just want to let you, you know, like have a good time and enjoy Smith Rock.
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But it was a Saturday.
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So I was out climbing with my friend Paul.
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We warmed up on the front side and went up into the aggro gully.
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And there you were.
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And you were so friendly.
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You had just onsided bad man as your warmup, which I thought was totally amazing.
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And we chatted with you for a bit.
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And I remember you asked us if we knew
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if anyone was back at the monkey
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because you were going to go try just do it
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and you asked us if we could come back to belay just in case you needed a belay.
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Of course, we couldn't say no to that.
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So we followed you back there, and Ian Caldwell was back there, like the sheriff of Smith Rock, so he was already on belay duty, which was perfect.
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So Paul and I just got to sit back and watch as you onsighted Just Do It.
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And I have to say, man, I mean, that was many years ago, and I've witnessed a lot of hard rock climbing in person in my life,
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but that still to this day was the most amazing thing I've ever seen.
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It was so exciting.
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I couldn't believe you were on sighting.
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I kept having to remind myself as you were going up like the start pitch, you know, that like 8B or 8B plus start pitch.
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I was like, he looks like he's red pointing.
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I can't believe he's never climbed this before.
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He's just so confident and smooth.
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It was freezing back there that day.
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It was like 40 degrees Fahrenheit and super windy in the shade.
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and you decided to go for it anyway.
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I think I might have been one of the people that tried to talk you out of it.
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I was like, it's so cold, dude.
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It was so cold.
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But yeah, I mean, again, it was just the most exciting and engaging thing, just the sounds that you were making in the crux,
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the way that the sounds were echoing around that little amphitheater up there with all these people watching, and it was just dead silent.
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And then I remember, and I'm getting to questions, promise but the thing that i most wanted to ask you about when i thought about interviewing you
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i just it was amazing to see your reaction when you clip the chains because
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you know you'd already on sighted like 20 ac pluses
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or something and multiple 9as
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so this wasn't like a cutting edge hardest thing you'd ever done
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but again like i i don't think i've ever seen a human more excited about anything than you were
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when you clip the chains of just do it and you're not American.
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So I was just like, what?
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Obviously, you're a student of climbing and you love climbing history and you'd been talking to Alan Watts and all these things.
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But I just wanted to hear about your history with that route and why it was so special for you.
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Because, yeah, again, you were just so excited.
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It didn't make sense given that that was your 20th or 24th or whatever, you know, 8C plus or harder on-site.
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It was so cool to see.
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I mean, 8C plus on-site is still quite a bit big.
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Yeah, of course.
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It's not going to be boring. Of course.
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Ever, I would say.
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But I don't think there is any other just do it in the world.
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now in terms of like how special and awesome looking line it is
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and also given the history of it and maybe the circumstances of the day
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when I knew it was going to be way too cold
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but I was very deliberate in the choice of the day from the week that we got to spend there
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and that was the warmest day so
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and I knew I really wanted to try that day
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so all of this together I think resulted in me being
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so happy for send and of course also knowing
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that the album was there I don't I don't even think
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it's like it's It's definitely not super difficult for HC Plus either.
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It's just the history, the line, and the climbing, and the presence of AlbumWodz that made it so special.
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If you find videos like this helpful, I put together a free masterclass on how to unlock your full potential in climbing,
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where I share some of the best nuggets I've learned from interviewing the best climbers in the world.
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It's for any climber who wants to improve, and it'll help you take your climbing to the next level.
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link in the description below if you want to check it out.
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I interviewed Alan many years ago.
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He was actually one of my first interviews.
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He was episode four on the podcast.
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Still one of my all-time favorite ones that I've done because I'd climbed a lot of his roots.
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And of course, you know, Smith Rock was my home at the time.
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And we talked about that day.
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We talked about you and he was surprised that you knew who he was.
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And then, you know, he was honored to connect with you.
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And then he ended up in your book
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and you sent him a copy of your book with your signature and all this stuff. So cool.
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Do you remember when you first learned about Just Do It and about Smith Rock?
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Was it in the magazines in the Czech Republic growing up?
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So it was from the book called Rockstars from Austrian photographer Heinz Czak.
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So the book was released in 1995
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and for some reason in our country in those times I think it felt like everybody had it.
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So my parents didn't have it, but my mother's best friend had it.
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And she lent it to me when I was, I think, seven.
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Then I had it for quite many years.
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Wow.
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From before I got my personal copy.
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Because it had been unavailable for years.
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And then they made a reprint.
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So, Rockstars, you have articles,
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not really interviews, but mostly written articles by Heinz about the best climbers in history,
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mostly sport climbers, a bit of a boulder.
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And yeah, Smith Rock was obviously there.
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So was Jibe Troubault in there actually on the line?
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Yeah, yeah, yeah. Of course.
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Yeah.
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Wow, that's amazing.
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At seven years old...
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But the Just Do It photo is not included there it there
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but I think the Jibetribu wife is to the Scarface 8B next to it is it called Scarface?
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Oh on Monkeyface?
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Eastface crack.
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Yeah, Eastface monkeyface.
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Yeah, yeah, yeah, Eastface crack.
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Yeah, another amazing line.
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Man, that's so crazy.
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At seven years old I was like collecting Legos
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and i don't know what else i was doing
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but it definitely i wasn't like i think i was still collecting collecting legos as well oh were you okay
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so yeah i was gonna ask
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that like what were your other interests as a kid like
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were you just i mean it seems like climbing consumed you from such an early age
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and it's just i think the thing that really sets you apart is
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that level of passion
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that just seems to be undying it seems like you you're
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never not psyched it's oh you're kind of shaking your head or shrugging?
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No, no, no. I think it's unfortunate from that perspective.
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Yes.
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I'm not saying I'm always 100% motivated, but most of the times I'm very motivated.
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And yeah, sending hard climbs,
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I think a lot of people might actually be disappointed when they finally send their big project that,
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okay, maybe the experience and the level of happiness
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that they are getting out of it is not wasn't really worth it maybe
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but for me it's like it's just really great
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actually question myself oh was it really worth it
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or not well i i maybe i tend to question myself
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while i'm working on a project if it's worth it
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or not whether i should just you know climb something else
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and maybe enjoy myself more through the process but
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when i was a little kid i think i I was always quite focused on one single thing.
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So earlier, I think, so more or less the age of Hugo when I was three,
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I was really into the cars and I was trying to learn every single brand that there was.
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So I was able to recognize it.
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And then I was really involved in geography.
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I really enjoyed memorizing all the capitals and flags and stuff like this.
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So actually when I was seven years old, it was kind of the time when my geography interest turned into climbing interest.
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Yeah, there's nice overlap there.
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From then, it was mostly just climbing.
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Yeah.
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And it was just the time that I was able to read, so I could read magazines and these books rock stars all over again.
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I remember seeing or reading somewhere that when you were a kid, your parents built a little campus wall
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and you had like a campus board in your room
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and then there was like holds connecting the two campus boards across the ceiling and stuff.
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And you would tell me about that.
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Is that like how you moved around your house as a kid?
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Is that the key to becoming Adam Andra?
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I mean, at a certain point, I would start climbing all the time in our apartment on everything that I could see.
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And the fact that I was climbing on some things, my parents were not really happy.
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So first, they set me like a really small section of the wall.
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just like you know let's imagine like big fingerboard around just above the door
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and in one or two years it grow a little bit bigger there's adding more and more holes i wouldn't
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like me a beta was actually training there it more meant that i never took rest days so
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doing something on my on my wall mostly just like resetting it
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so imagine it was sort of like a spray wall
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and it didn't really have that many holes so I think I would like reset it every week or something.
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Wow, how old were you?
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7-8.
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Wow, that's an early introduction to spray wall climbing that's so cool and no shoes were allowed right?
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It was like socks or barefoot?
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The rule by my mother was no shoes because the wall was white
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and she really wanted for it to remain nice and white
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so I was barefoot and choking up was only possible in the bathroom.
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So I didn't really mind.
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I think that climbing barefoot made it even more interesting.
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Man, I wonder if your mom had any inkling that you would become you, you know?
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Like did she see the potential and did she think you'd be the...
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I think maybe when I was eight, I think already maybe yes.
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I think I was quite unique for my age.
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So I think I was on sighting 7B+, which right now is maybe not that special, but back then it was really special.
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I also remember learning that you had stuffed animals and you made little harnesses for them.
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And you would take them climbing in air quotes.
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Absolutely.
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I actually found again the guidebook that I made for my animals.
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It was a little dog and a big.
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So I would like paint like sections of our apartment and I would just you know
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made the lines and come up with the names and give it a certain grade.
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and so I would like reckon you know the little dog is like 170 175 centimeters
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so you know so like a really long route for a dog would be like 30 meters
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and stuff like this and paradoxically the ultimate grade
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that my little dog has ever reached was a 9c oh wow okay what Describe the 9C.
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Was that like...
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A total roof.
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A total roof, okay.
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A 45-meter total roof.
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No knee bars, though.
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Vocabulaire et conseils d’expression pour cette leçon
Cette leçon d’expression orale de niveau B2 s’appuie sur la vidéo « I met Adam Ondra and HE BLEW MY MIND ». Cette vidéo contient 190 phrases et 2162 mots à répéter en shadowing. La partie parlée dure 13:05. Le locuteur parle à un rythme naturel d’environ 165 mots par minute, proche d’une conversation courante. 84 % des mots font partie des 3 000 mots les plus courants en anglais ; le reste mérite d’être vu avant de commencer.
Vocabulaire clé de cette vidéo
Les 15 mots les plus avancés de la vidéo, avec leur prononciation et leur sens :
| Mot | Prononciation | Sens |
|---|---|---|
| climber nom | /ˈklaɪmɚ/ | grimpeur, grimpeuse |
| barefoot adjectif | /ˈbɛɹfʊt/ | pieds nus |
| belie verbe | /bɪˈlaɪ/ | démentir |
| excite verbe | /ɪkˈsaɪt/ | exciter |
| motivate verbe | /ˈmoʊ.tɪ.veɪt/ | motiver |
| reset verbe | /ɹiːˈsɛt/ | remettre à zéro, réinitialiser |
| geography nom | /d͡ʒiˈɑɡɹəfi/ | géographie |
| spray nom | /spɹeɪ/ | embrun, gouttelette |
| fingerboard nom | touche | |
| inkling nom | /ˈɪŋklɪŋ/ | soupçon |
| memorize verbe | /ˈmɛm.əˌɹaɪ̯z/ | mémoriser, apprendre par cœur |
| paradoxically adverbe | /ˌpɛɹəˈdɑksɪkli/ | paradoxalement |
| psyche nom | /ˈsaɪ.ki/ | psyché, psychisme |
| reprint verbe | /ˈɹiːpɹɪnt/ | réimprimer |
| undying adjectif | /ʌnˈdaɪ.ɪŋ/ | éternel, immortel |
Les verbes à particule que vous entendrez
| Mot | Sens |
|---|---|
| come up with verbe | inventer, imaginer |
| go out verbe | sortir |
| go up verbe | monter, s'élever |
| grow up verbe | grandir |
| put together verbe | assembler |
| sit back verbe | se détendre |
Des phrases à répéter
Des phrases courtes et complètes de la vidéo, à réutiliser dans la conversation de tous les jours :
- Of course, we couldn't say no to that.
- I couldn't believe you were on sighting.
- I was like, he looks like he's red pointing.
- I can't believe he's never climbed this before.
- Wow, how old were you?
La grammaire de cette vidéo
Les structures que le locuteur utilise le plus, avec les mots exacts de la vidéo :
| Structure | Dans la vidéo |
|---|---|
| Present perfect have/has + participe passé — une action passée qui compte encore maintenant | we've actually met · I've witnessed · I've ever seen |
| Voix passive be + participe passé — l’accent est mis sur ce qui arrive, pas sur qui le fait | was honored · was released · is not included |
Prononciation à surveiller
Le locuteur utilise 39 contractions et formes réduites, comme didn't, don't, I'm. Prononcez-les sous leur forme courte, telles que vous les entendez.
- Les sons « sh » et « zh »: sheriff /ˈʃɛɹɪf/, shade /ʃeɪd/
- Mots longs — placez bien l’accent: geography /d͡ʒiˈɑɡɹəfi/, paradoxically /ˌpɛɹəˈdɑksɪkli/, unavailable /ˌʌnəˈveɪləbəl/, deliberate /dɪˈlɪb.(ə.)ɹət/, unfortunate /ʌnˈfɔː.t͡ʃə.nɪt/
Les sons difficiles pour les francophones :
- /tʃ/ et /dʒ/ — à ne pas adoucir en « ch » et « j »: geography /d͡ʒiˈɑɡɹəfi/, choke /t͡ʃoʊk/, unfortunate /ʌnˈfɔː.t͡ʃə.nɪt/
- /r/ anglais — langue recourbée, sans frotter la gorge: barefoot /ˈbɛɹfʊt/, reset /ɹiːˈsɛt/, geography /d͡ʒiˈɑɡɹəfi/, spray /spɹeɪ/, memorize /ˈmɛm.əˌɹaɪ̯z/
- /ŋ/ final — sans prononcer de /g/ après: inkling /ˈɪŋklɪŋ/, undying /ʌnˈdaɪ.ɪŋ/, ceiling /ˈsilɪŋ/
Comment s’entraîner avec cette vidéo
- Écoutez la vidéo en entier une fois sans parler et notez les mots que vous ne connaissez pas.
- Commencez à la vitesse 0,75×, répétez phrase par phrase, puis revenez à la vitesse normale quand cela devient facile.
- Enregistrez-vous et comparez avec l’original, en faisant attention à des mots comme climber, barefoot, belie.
Qu'est-ce que la technique du Shadowing ?
Le Shadowing est une technique d'apprentissage des langues fondée sur la science, développée à l'origine pour la formation des interprètes professionnels. Le principe est simple mais puissant : vous écoutez de l'anglais natif et le répétez immédiatement à voix haute — comme une ombre suivant le locuteur avec un décalage de 1 à 2 secondes. Les recherches montrent une amélioration significative de la précision de la prononciation, de l'intonation, du rythme, des liaisons, de la compréhension orale et de la fluidité.