ฝึกพูดภาษาอังกฤษด้วยเทคนิค Shadowing จากวิดีโอ: I met Adam Ondra and HE BLEW MY MIND
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191 ประโยค
หากประโยคสั้นหรือยาวเกินไป กดที่ Edit เพื่อปรับแก้
1
So I would not expect you to remember this, but we've actually met before.
2
And it was November 10th, 2018.
3
The reason I know that date is because it was the day that you onsited Just Do It.
4
And I used to live in Oregon.
5
I lived in Oregon for many years and Smith Rock was my home crag for about seven years.
6
And when you were in town, I was projecting Badman, that route in the AgroGully.
7
And I remember hearing that you were around
8
and I didn't want to go out there
9
and like try to find you because I was sure you were getting way too much attention already.
10
And I just want to let you, you know, like have a good time and enjoy Smith Rock.
11
But it was a Saturday.
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So I was out climbing with my friend Paul.
13
We warmed up on the front side and went up into the aggro gully.
14
And there you were.
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And you were so friendly.
16
You had just onsided bad man as your warmup, which I thought was totally amazing.
17
And we chatted with you for a bit.
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And I remember you asked us if we knew
19
if anyone was back at the monkey
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because you were going to go try just do it
21
and you asked us if we could come back to belay just in case you needed a belay.
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Of course, we couldn't say no to that.
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So we followed you back there, and Ian Caldwell was back there, like the sheriff of Smith Rock, so he was already on belay duty, which was perfect.
24
So Paul and I just got to sit back and watch as you onsighted Just Do It.
25
And I have to say, man, I mean, that was many years ago, and I've witnessed a lot of hard rock climbing in person in my life,
26
but that still to this day was the most amazing thing I've ever seen.
27
It was so exciting.
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I couldn't believe you were on sighting.
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I kept having to remind myself as you were going up like the start pitch, you know, that like 8B or 8B plus start pitch.
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I was like, he looks like he's red pointing.
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I can't believe he's never climbed this before.
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He's just so confident and smooth.
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It was freezing back there that day.
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It was like 40 degrees Fahrenheit and super windy in the shade.
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and you decided to go for it anyway.
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I think I might have been one of the people that tried to talk you out of it.
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I was like, it's so cold, dude.
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It was so cold.
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But yeah, I mean, again, it was just the most exciting and engaging thing, just the sounds that you were making in the crux,
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the way that the sounds were echoing around that little amphitheater up there with all these people watching, and it was just dead silent.
41
And then I remember, and I'm getting to questions, promise but the thing that i most wanted to ask you about when i thought about interviewing you
42
i just it was amazing to see your reaction when you clip the chains because
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you know you'd already on sighted like 20 ac pluses
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or something and multiple 9as
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so this wasn't like a cutting edge hardest thing you'd ever done
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but again like i i don't think i've ever seen a human more excited about anything than you were
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when you clip the chains of just do it and you're not American.
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So I was just like, what?
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Obviously, you're a student of climbing and you love climbing history and you'd been talking to Alan Watts and all these things.
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But I just wanted to hear about your history with that route and why it was so special for you.
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Because, yeah, again, you were just so excited.
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It didn't make sense given that that was your 20th or 24th or whatever, you know, 8C plus or harder on-site.
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It was so cool to see.
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I mean, 8C plus on-site is still quite a bit big.
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Yeah, of course.
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It's not going to be boring. Of course.
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Ever, I would say.
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But I don't think there is any other just do it in the world.
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now in terms of like how special and awesome looking line it is
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and also given the history of it and maybe the circumstances of the day
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when I knew it was going to be way too cold
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but I was very deliberate in the choice of the day from the week that we got to spend there
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and that was the warmest day so
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and I knew I really wanted to try that day
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so all of this together I think resulted in me being
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so happy for send and of course also knowing
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that the album was there I don't I don't even think
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it's like it's It's definitely not super difficult for HC Plus either.
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It's just the history, the line, and the climbing, and the presence of AlbumWodz that made it so special.
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If you find videos like this helpful, I put together a free masterclass on how to unlock your full potential in climbing,
71
where I share some of the best nuggets I've learned from interviewing the best climbers in the world.
72
It's for any climber who wants to improve, and it'll help you take your climbing to the next level.
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link in the description below if you want to check it out.
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I interviewed Alan many years ago.
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He was actually one of my first interviews.
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He was episode four on the podcast.
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Still one of my all-time favorite ones that I've done because I'd climbed a lot of his roots.
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And of course, you know, Smith Rock was my home at the time.
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And we talked about that day.
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We talked about you and he was surprised that you knew who he was.
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And then, you know, he was honored to connect with you.
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And then he ended up in your book
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and you sent him a copy of your book with your signature and all this stuff. So cool.
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Do you remember when you first learned about Just Do It and about Smith Rock?
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Was it in the magazines in the Czech Republic growing up?
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So it was from the book called Rockstars from Austrian photographer Heinz Czak.
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So the book was released in 1995
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and for some reason in our country in those times I think it felt like everybody had it.
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So my parents didn't have it, but my mother's best friend had it.
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And she lent it to me when I was, I think, seven.
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Then I had it for quite many years.
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Wow.
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From before I got my personal copy.
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Because it had been unavailable for years.
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And then they made a reprint.
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So, Rockstars, you have articles,
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not really interviews, but mostly written articles by Heinz about the best climbers in history,
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mostly sport climbers, a bit of a boulder.
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And yeah, Smith Rock was obviously there.
100
So was Jibe Troubault in there actually on the line?
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Yeah, yeah, yeah. Of course.
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Yeah.
103
Wow, that's amazing.
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At seven years old...
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But the Just Do It photo is not included there it there
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but I think the Jibetribu wife is to the Scarface 8B next to it is it called Scarface?
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Oh on Monkeyface?
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Eastface crack.
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Yeah, Eastface monkeyface.
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Yeah, yeah, yeah, Eastface crack.
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Yeah, another amazing line.
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Man, that's so crazy.
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At seven years old I was like collecting Legos
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and i don't know what else i was doing
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but it definitely i wasn't like i think i was still collecting collecting legos as well oh were you okay
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so yeah i was gonna ask
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that like what were your other interests as a kid like
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were you just i mean it seems like climbing consumed you from such an early age
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and it's just i think the thing that really sets you apart is
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that level of passion
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that just seems to be undying it seems like you you're
122
never not psyched it's oh you're kind of shaking your head or shrugging?
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No, no, no. I think it's unfortunate from that perspective.
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Yes.
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I'm not saying I'm always 100% motivated, but most of the times I'm very motivated.
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And yeah, sending hard climbs,
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I think a lot of people might actually be disappointed when they finally send their big project that,
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okay, maybe the experience and the level of happiness
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that they are getting out of it is not wasn't really worth it maybe
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but for me it's like it's just really great
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actually question myself oh was it really worth it
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or not well i i maybe i tend to question myself
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while i'm working on a project if it's worth it
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or not whether i should just you know climb something else
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and maybe enjoy myself more through the process but
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when i was a little kid i think i I was always quite focused on one single thing.
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So earlier, I think, so more or less the age of Hugo when I was three,
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I was really into the cars and I was trying to learn every single brand that there was.
139
So I was able to recognize it.
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And then I was really involved in geography.
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I really enjoyed memorizing all the capitals and flags and stuff like this.
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So actually when I was seven years old, it was kind of the time when my geography interest turned into climbing interest.
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Yeah, there's nice overlap there.
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From then, it was mostly just climbing.
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Yeah.
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And it was just the time that I was able to read, so I could read magazines and these books rock stars all over again.
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I remember seeing or reading somewhere that when you were a kid, your parents built a little campus wall
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and you had like a campus board in your room
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and then there was like holds connecting the two campus boards across the ceiling and stuff.
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And you would tell me about that.
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Is that like how you moved around your house as a kid?
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Is that the key to becoming Adam Andra?
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I mean, at a certain point, I would start climbing all the time in our apartment on everything that I could see.
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And the fact that I was climbing on some things, my parents were not really happy.
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So first, they set me like a really small section of the wall.
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just like you know let's imagine like big fingerboard around just above the door
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and in one or two years it grow a little bit bigger there's adding more and more holes i wouldn't
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like me a beta was actually training there it more meant that i never took rest days so
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doing something on my on my wall mostly just like resetting it
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so imagine it was sort of like a spray wall
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and it didn't really have that many holes so I think I would like reset it every week or something.
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Wow, how old were you?
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7-8.
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Wow, that's an early introduction to spray wall climbing that's so cool and no shoes were allowed right?
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It was like socks or barefoot?
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The rule by my mother was no shoes because the wall was white
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and she really wanted for it to remain nice and white
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so I was barefoot and choking up was only possible in the bathroom.
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So I didn't really mind.
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I think that climbing barefoot made it even more interesting.
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Man, I wonder if your mom had any inkling that you would become you, you know?
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Like did she see the potential and did she think you'd be the...
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I think maybe when I was eight, I think already maybe yes.
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I think I was quite unique for my age.
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So I think I was on sighting 7B+, which right now is maybe not that special, but back then it was really special.
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I also remember learning that you had stuffed animals and you made little harnesses for them.
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And you would take them climbing in air quotes.
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Absolutely.
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I actually found again the guidebook that I made for my animals.
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It was a little dog and a big.
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So I would like paint like sections of our apartment and I would just you know
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made the lines and come up with the names and give it a certain grade.
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and so I would like reckon you know the little dog is like 170 175 centimeters
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so you know so like a really long route for a dog would be like 30 meters
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and stuff like this and paradoxically the ultimate grade
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that my little dog has ever reached was a 9c oh wow okay what Describe the 9C.
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Was that like...
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A total roof.
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A total roof, okay.
190
A 45-meter total roof.
191
No knee bars, though.
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คำศัพท์และข้อสังเกตด้านการพูดสำหรับบทเรียนนี้
บทเรียนฝึกพูดระดับ B2 นี้ใช้วิดีโอ “I met Adam Ondra and HE BLEW MY MIND” เป็นสื่อ วิดีโอนี้มี 190 ประโยค และ 2162 คำ สำหรับฝึกพูดตาม ช่วงที่มีเสียงพูดยาว 13:05 ผู้พูดพูดด้วยความเร็วเป็นธรรมชาติ ประมาณ 165 คำต่อนาที ใกล้เคียงกับบทสนทนาในชีวิตประจำวัน 84% ของคำอยู่ใน 3,000 คำที่ใช้บ่อยที่สุดในภาษาอังกฤษ ส่วนที่เหลือควรดูไว้ก่อนเริ่มฝึก
คำศัพท์สำคัญในวิดีโอนี้
คำที่ยากที่สุด 15 คำในวิดีโอ พร้อมคำอ่านและความหมาย:
| คำศัพท์ | คำอ่าน | ความหมาย |
|---|---|---|
| geography คำนาม | /d͡ʒiˈɑɡɹəfi/ | ภูมิศาสตร์ |
| memorize คำกริยา | /ˈmɛm.əˌɹaɪ̯z/ | จดจำ |
| windy คำคุณศัพท์ | /ˈwɪn.di/ | ลมแรง |
| sock คำนาม | /sɑk/ | ถุงเท้า |
| circumstance คำนาม | /ˈsɝ.kəmˌstæns/ | กรณี, สถานการณ์ |
| choke คำกริยา | /t͡ʃoʊk/ | สำลัก, หายใจติดขัด |
| metre คำนาม | /ˈmiːtəɹ/ | เมตร |
| consume คำกริยา | /kənˈsum/ | อุปโภค, ใช้ |
| unlock คำกริยา | /ʌnˈlɑk/ | ไข |
| lend คำกริยา | /ˈlɛnd/ | ให้ยืม |
| bore คำกริยา | /boɹ/ | เจาะ, ไช |
| echo คำนาม | /ˈɛk.oʊ/ | เสียงสะท้อน |
| monkey คำนาม | /ˈmʌŋki/ | ลิง |
| meter คำนาม | /ˈmitəɹ/ | มิเตอร์ |
| freeze คำกริยา | /ˈfɹiːz/ | แข็ง |
กริยาวลีที่คุณจะได้ยิน
| คำศัพท์ | ความหมาย |
|---|---|
| go out คำกริยา | ออก, ออกไป |
ประโยคที่ควรฝึกพูดซ้ำ
ประโยคสั้น ๆ ที่สมบูรณ์จากวิดีโอ ซึ่งนำไปใช้ในบทสนทนาประจำวันได้:
- Of course, we couldn't say no to that.
- I couldn't believe you were on sighting.
- I was like, he looks like he's red pointing.
- I can't believe he's never climbed this before.
- Wow, how old were you?
ไวยากรณ์ในวิดีโอนี้
โครงสร้างที่ผู้พูดใช้บ่อยที่สุด พร้อมคำพูดจริงจากวิดีโอ:
| โครงสร้าง | ในวิดีโอ |
|---|---|
| Present perfect have/has + กริยาช่อง 3 — เหตุการณ์ในอดีตที่ยังเกี่ยวข้องกับปัจจุบัน | we've actually met · I've witnessed · I've ever seen |
| Passive voice be + กริยาช่อง 3 — เน้นสิ่งที่เกิดขึ้น ไม่ใช่ผู้กระทำ | was honored · was released · is not included |
การออกเสียงที่ควรระวัง
ผู้พูดใช้รูปย่อและรูปลดเสียง 39 ครั้ง เช่น didn't, don't, I'm ให้พูดแบบสั้นตามที่ได้ยิน
- เสียง “sh” และ “zh”: sheriff /ˈʃɛɹɪf/, shade /ʃeɪd/
- คำยาว — ลงเสียงหนักให้ถูกพยางค์: geography /d͡ʒiˈɑɡɹəfi/, paradoxically /ˌpɛɹəˈdɑksɪkli/, unavailable /ˌʌnəˈveɪləbəl/, deliberate /dɪˈlɪb.(ə.)ɹət/, unfortunate /ʌnˈfɔː.t͡ʃə.nɪt/
เสียงที่คนไทยมักออกเสียงยาก:
- เสียงท้ายคำ — ออกเสียงให้ครบ ไม่เปลี่ยนเป็นตัวสะกดแบบไทย: memorize /ˈmɛm.əˌɹaɪ̯z/, unavailable /ˌʌnəˈveɪləbəl/, circumstance /ˈsɝ.kəmˌstæns/, harness /ˈhɑɹ.nəs/, freeze /ˈfɹiːz/
- /v/ — ไม่ใช่ /w/ ให้ฟันบนแตะริมฝีปากล่าง: motivate /ˈmoʊ.tɪ.veɪt/, unavailable /ˌʌnəˈveɪləbəl/, overlap /ˌəʊvəˈlæp/
- /z/ — เสียงก้อง ไม่ใช่ /s/: memorize /ˈmɛm.əˌɹaɪ̯z/, freeze /ˈfɹiːz/
วิธีฝึกกับวิดีโอนี้
- ฟังวิดีโอให้จบหนึ่งรอบโดยยังไม่ต้องพูด แล้วจดคำที่ยังไม่รู้จัก
- เริ่มที่ความเร็ว 0.75× พูดตามทีละประโยค แล้วกลับไปใช้ความเร็วปกติเมื่อเริ่มคล่อง
- อัดเสียงตัวเองแล้วเทียบกับต้นฉบับ โดยสังเกตคำอย่าง geography, memorize, windy เป็นพิเศษ
เทคนิค Shadowing คืออะไร?
Shadowing เป็นเทคนิคการเรียนรู้ภาษาที่ได้รับการรับรองทางวิทยาศาสตร์ พัฒนาขึ้นสำหรับการฝึกนักแปลมืออาชีพ วิธีการนี้เรียบง่ายแต่ทรงพลัง: คุณฟังเสียงภาษาอังกฤษจากเจ้าของภาษาและพูดตามทันที — เหมือนเงาที่ตามผู้พูดด้วยช่วงเวลาห่าง 1-2 วินาที การวิจัยแสดงว่าเทคนิคนี้ปรับปรุงความแม่นยำในการออกเสียง ทำนองเสียง จังหวะ การเชื่อมเสียง การฟังเข้าใจ และความคล่องแคล่วในการพูดได้อย่างมีนัยสำคัญ