Pratique du Shadowing: Hangboarding Twice Per Day For 2 Years | ft. Emil Abrahamsson - Apprendre l'anglais à l'oral avec la vidéo
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124 phrases
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this hangboard protocol that we talked about in the last podcast, like two years ago, is kind of my recruitment protocol nowadays.
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So I do that six weeks in advance and it quite quickly, for anybody listening, I guess I could clarify what I meant by that.
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The no hang protocol is a protocol that I do two times per day, where I just gently load my fingers.
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So I'm not pushing them as you would do on like a max hang session or anything like that.
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I'm just kind of tugging a bit on holds for 10 minutes.
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and what it's definitely done for me is helped recruit a lot of my my muscle fibers
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and just get my body more like ready to climb i guess
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and when i was when i was doing
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that in preparation for the trip it was pretty apparent
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that as soon as i started that my body got used to the new weight
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i like to climb with that new weight well that's that's fascinating
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because you're doing that protocol with your feet on the ground right
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and you're just taking like a percentage of your your weight
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so that's yeah that's really interesting that doing
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that allowed you to adjust to the new weight
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so you just it sounds like periodically you still come back to that protocol
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and you'll just do it for 30 days yeah exactly i
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do it for about six weeks before any form of like performance type thing
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so if it's a competition or some some climb
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that i want to do outdoors or so i i always try
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and plan for like six weeks of
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that yeah okay um yeah do you feel like you've gotten long-term gains from doing
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that or is it just like a shorter term kind of tune-up like what do you think is happening there
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so i think um it's definitely a short-term tune-up like you
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can't have i don't think you can have really progressive overload of any sort with
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that like you can't get much stronger fingers.
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But I think for people who can't like when you can't climb very, very often.
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So for me, for instance, I'm editing a lot.
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So I'm in front of the computer for like 10 hours a day.
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And I try and squeeze in as much.
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Like I have a pretty flexible schedule so I can climb quite regularly as I want.
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But when I'm sitting still so much, I think this protocol helps me just kind of rewire my body.
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So like every six hours, it's good for it to get used to movement of some sort.
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And I think the finger part of that movement is the most important to the climbing.
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so that's why I think it works so well for me for instance
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and I don't think it's I think it's good to do
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it for like 46 weeks that's definitely what I believe my
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brother's kept on doing it for two years straight now
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and he's just like he's just feeling healthy in his fingers from it
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which is his benefits and I do still feel that benefit but
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if I'm doing it like as a person I have a hard time like just doing it for healthy fingers
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if my fingers aren't or if they're already healthy
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so i i have more of like a goal with it
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which is like i want to get slightly stronger fingers i want to get them working again
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but every time that i do it my finger strength definitely goes back up again
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and i feel much more comfortable hanging on a hangboard and just climbing on the wall
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to pull harder yeah yeah have you heard of greasing the groove are you familiar with that Yeah, yeah, yeah.
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Yeah.
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Yeah.
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Yeah.
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Yeah.
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I think that's what it is.
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Does that make sense to you?
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I feel like, I feel like it's this grease in the groove thing where you're just, this is like a phrase from weightlifting where, um, rather than training heavy.
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Um, I think, I think I learned this from Pavel Tzatzulin, the Russian kettlebell guy, but he'll just do like, you know, a little bit of volume throughout the day,
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kind of every day and just kind of recruit, just get that, Just get that wiring between your brain and those muscles like super,
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super, I guess, dialed in or coded or whatever for the movement that you're doing.
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Yeah, kinda.
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Yeah, I definitely, I think so too.
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I think that's kind of where it all comes from.
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It's just reminding your body what you're doing kind of.
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Yeah.
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That's fascinating.
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That's something you still do and you do it for four to six weeks is
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that like right before like the last thing you do before a performance phase yeah you could say
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so yeah yeah i mean it's like i was doing it
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from early november until we left in the middle of december
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so those six weeks when i was still training pretty intensely
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but kind of like okay now i'm gonna start getting to
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the peak of the training phase of like trying to build all of this
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and trying to become stronger
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and then i just kept going with the same intensity of the no hangs for the entire duration
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but at the end of
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that cycle just before we left i was doing much shorter sessions on the on the kilter board
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and the spray wall i'm curious about your fingers
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so you know story of two worlds um obviously it's it's hard enough
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that it has a very fingery element to it
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because everything v15 you know in that range is very fingery or demands a high degree of finger strength.
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But it seems more squeezy, maybe body power, things like that.
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But then the fact that you went back to off the wagon,
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like we teased earlier, and that's a problem that you seem obsessed with and you had set simulators of it and stuff.
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And that one arm campus through move was something that was maybe doable, but hard for you.
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And you came back and it just seems like you just smashed it and it seemed easy.
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So that's a real testament to just pure raw finger strength gains.
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Yeah, like off the wagon was such a great experience.
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I'm so happy I went there
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because at the time I was like slightly obsessing of story of two worlds like I was gonna do it.
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And then there was this day where the conditions weren't great.
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So I was like, well, I don't want to spend too much energy here.
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Like I have a lot of other things
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that I want to try on this trip and I don't want to get too sucked in.
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So we moved over to off the wagon.
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And the thing is, this finger strength element is the thing that often in weight becomes the question, right?
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Like, oh, can you be heavy and have strong fingers?
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And that's where it became so apparent that, yes, you can.
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You can have strong fingers.
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I just hopped on the campus move and did it right away.
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It felt incredibly easy.
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I did it like four or five times in a row, just every single go.
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Which, relative to when I tried it the year before at 76, I was working on it for maybe two hours that session.
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and I like you could argue I got close
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but I never even like held a swing at all in the jug
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so the it was a shocking difference in strength on
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that older actually like there was like okay something's happened
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because it's it's hard to confirm like yes I set those benchmarks in November
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that I talked about earlier and I knew to a degree
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that I was stronger but like you're saying
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if it's i had never tried story of two worlds on a previous trip
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so it wasn't really i couldn't say like oh i've definitely gotten better
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because i couldn't really put it to the test on anything um
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but then on off the wagon
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that was kind of like my okay it's cemented like i'm
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gonna continue doing this type of training for the next season which i'm doing right now
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and like this works for me um that's awesome i think i think finger strength is
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when you're when you're that's the thing though i think
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when you're first gaining weight and you're trying to kind of bulk up
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if you're taking creatine or just eating more
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or whatever you do feel a slight decline
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and you think like oh dang i'm losing the most important aspect to my climbing
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because finger strength is the most important aspect to climbing in
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my from my perspective like there are of course elements to climbing
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when it's not the most important but generally speaking
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if you don't have the finger strength you can't apply any power
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or technique or anything else like you do need to be able to hold on to the holds to climb
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Vocabulaire et conseils d’expression pour cette leçon
Cette vidéo contient 124 phrases et 1537 mots à répéter en shadowing. La partie parlée dure 7:49. Le locuteur parle vite, environ 197 mots par minute : attendez-vous à des liaisons et à des sons réduits. 83 % des mots font partie des 3 000 mots les plus courants en anglais ; le reste mérite d’être vu avant de commencer.
Vocabulaire clé de cette vidéo
15 mots moins courants de la vidéo, avec leur prononciation et leur sens :
- finger /ˈfɪŋɡɚ/ (nom) — doigt. A slender jointed extremity of the human hand, (often) exclusive of the thumb, and the corresponding part, irrespective of including a thumb, in many other…
- climb /ˈklaɪ̯m/ (verbe) — grimper, monter. To traverse a slope or contour, either upwards (ascending) or downwards (descending).
- protocol /ˈpɹoʊtəˌkɑl/ (nom) — protocole. An amendment to an official treaty.
- wagon /ˈwæɡən/ (nom) — chariot. A heavier four-wheeled (normally horse-drawn) vehicle designed to carry goods (or sometimes people).
- element /ˈɛləmənt/ (nom) — élément. One of the simplest or essential parts or principles of which anything consists, or upon which the constitution or fundamental powers of anything are based.
- muscle /ˈmʌs.əl/ (nom) — muscle. A contractile form of tissue which animals use to effect movement.
- aspect /ˈæspɛkt/ (nom) — aspect. Any specific feature, part, or element of something.
- apparent /əˈpæɹənt/ (adjectif) — apparent, visible. Capable of being seen, or easily seen; open to view; visible to the eye; within sight or view.
- tune /tjuːn/ (nom) — mélodie, air. A melody.
- recruit /ɹɪˈkɹut/ (verbe) — recruter, enrôler. To enroll or enlist new members or potential employees on behalf of an employer, organization, sports team, the military, etc.
- groove /ɡɹuv/ (nom) — rainure, sillon. A long, narrow channel or depression; e.g., such a slot cut into a hard material to provide a location for an engineering component, a tire groove, or a…
- grease /ɡɹis/ (nom) — graisse. Animal fat in a melted or soft state.
- percentage /pə(ɹ)ˈsɛntɪd͡ʒ/ (nom) — pourcentage. The amount, number or rate of something, regarded as part of a total of 100; a part of a whole.
- relative /ˈɹɛl.ə.tɪv/ (nom) — parent. Someone connected by blood, marriage, or adoption; someone in the same family.
- technique /tɛkˈniːk/ (nom) — technique. The practical aspects of a given art, occupation etc.; formal requirements.
Les verbes à particule que vous entendrez
- come back (verbe) — revenir. To return to a place.
- try on (verbe) — essayer. To test the look or fit of (a garment) by wearing it.
Prononciation à surveiller
Le locuteur utilise 47 contractions et formes réduites, comme I'm, you're, can't. Prononcez-les sous leur forme courte, telles que vous les entendez.
- Les sons « sh » et « zh »: shock /ʃɔk/, preparation /ˌpɹɛpəˈɹeɪʃ(ə)n/, duration /dʒʊˈɹeɪ.ʃən/, smash /smæʃ/, benchmark /ˈbɛn(t)ʃmɑːk/
- Mots longs — placez bien l’accent: incredibly /ɪŋˈkɹɛdɪbli/, preparation /ˌpɹɛpəˈɹeɪʃ(ə)n/, intensity /ɪnˈtɛnsɪti/, simulator /ˈsɪmjəˌleɪtɚ/
Comment s’entraîner avec cette vidéo
- Écoutez la vidéo en entier une fois sans parler et notez les mots que vous ne connaissez pas.
- Commencez à la vitesse 0,75×, répétez phrase par phrase, puis revenez à la vitesse normale quand cela devient facile.
- Enregistrez-vous et comparez avec l’original, en faisant attention à des mots comme finger, climb, protocol.
Qu'est-ce que la technique du Shadowing ?
Le Shadowing est une technique d'apprentissage des langues fondée sur la science, développée à l'origine pour la formation des interprètes professionnels. Le principe est simple mais puissant : vous écoutez de l'anglais natif et le répétez immédiatement à voix haute — comme une ombre suivant le locuteur avec un décalage de 1 à 2 secondes. Les recherches montrent une amélioration significative de la précision de la prononciation, de l'intonation, du rythme, des liaisons, de la compréhension orale et de la fluidité.