Shadowing Practice: testing installation and what you need look for - Learn English Speaking with Video

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basic insulation

so what we've got is we've got the pit coming in here what we need to do is the first

we've got a few tests

that we need to go through the first one mostly

we do is doing the earthing system first we have our main earth we have our water pipe

which is our bonding conductor

they come back here to the earth bar all right we have our men link

which we're going to put in okay

now what we have is we have a main switch stove the stove's

now going to be an rcd okay this one's a circuit breaker

but we will be changing we have two rcds protecting power

and one protecting the light so our lighting circuit is the fan with the light switches here

then we have four power sockets two on each rcd then we have the stove down here with the appliance

and our earth point that's our first one here

so this is treated as a separate appliance okay so

when we're doing measuring today i want you to mega between the earth

and the earth point here to make sure it's got continuity first

and then what you do is you'll do an insulation test between here

and the earth pin or between here and the earth earth itself make sure

that the stove's turned on there's no use measuring something

if it's in turned in the on off position all elements have to be turned on okay

so that's our stove here we have a simple sweep fan

or exhaust fan this being the metal part of the frame

so we need to go from here to the earth pin

and then make sure that the fans turned on

and we do an insulation resistance test same as what i

was talking about here insulation resistance test to make sure it's not down the ground these have to be removed

when you're doing your circuit tests for the circuits

because this going to create a fault on itself so make sure it's unplugged and switches from the on position

so the first test we're going to do right is we're going to test the earthing conductor

we're going to use a thing called the mega sorry insulation resistance test it can't be called a mega

because it's a brand name so

when we have a look at this the blue scale is

what we're going to do in ohms the red scale is what we're going to do in insulation resistance test

you'll notice we have three

and five the first thing

i need to do is do a battery check battery check's important all right i'll make sure my button's released but

so what i do is shorten my meter leads together to a battery test okay

that's telling me the battery's okay it's in a good position

all right and then what i'll do is check my homage it's sitting on zero

so zoom in for ohms we've got zero

there sitting on zero perfect the other one then we do is we go to 500 volts

and it goes back nearly to 0 ohms on that side there.

All right.

So it reads two different ways.

Zero reads down here on the left.

Sorry, down towards this way and zero reads on the opposite side.

The difference with the red scale is that we're pumping 500 volts into 240 volt circuit, which is what this is.

If we were doing a three -phase circuit, we would do 1 ,000 volts.

Okay.

Remember, it's a DC.

This is DC, not AC that we're putting in we're putting dc in

so it has to be double the voltage okay

and dc will pick up faults a lot more than ac what's the problem with ac yeah

it's kind of moving up

and down it's going strong right dc is basically full strength all the time all right

it's going to put a charge or a

or a um demand on the circuits all the time it's not going to be moving up and down

all right look at the ac sine wave anyway the first thing we need to do

if you're checking under verification in the rule book it has all about visual faults

and then it starts like there's a little flow diagram

there the main thing you need to check is make sure the installation part

is that the main earth is working to the earth bar all right then we check the bonding conductors

and then we go through to check to all the what we call protective uh earths

which are the ones that run out with an active

and neutral to each power point

and then your body body conductor doesn't have an active

and neutral running out with it all right

so these are what we call protective earth which means is if we get a fault between active or neutral

the earth will give us a return path of current

so what i'm going to do what's my maximum resistance

so what i'm going to do is now select

it to um ohms three ohms all right the rule book says

it shouldn't be more than 0 .05 okay we don't want a high um resistance

because if we've got

that we've got a problem one thing

you need to be careful of is don't do it from here to the clip

so if i go from the earth bar i'm going to put my emmy

and link out as well

if you go from here on the earth bar don't do it to the um to the clip

because there could be a high resistance under the earth stake do you understand what i'm getting

it needs to go to the earth stake

which is sitting on top here all right

so i'm getting a resistance of um just over 1 .5

which is a fail it's more than 0 .5

so that's telling me it's a difference and

if i go here it's about the same sometimes you'd be surprised

when you go from the pipe to the clamp how much the resistance could change

all right because there could be a high resistance all right okay

so that tells me that fails that means to be adjusted

or looked at

if we have a strip earth the reason

i'm going to talk about the strip earth now is you won't have this tag on here

and you won't have the clamp a strip earth will come

out of the board run down straight in the ground

and that's it and that's about 25 mil square

so it's a very hard it's pretty hard to do a test

or a what we call um continuity test on a strip earth

because it's a set length

100

and it doesn't have any joins in it okay the reason we do this test is

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because we've got this join here that can give us a high resistance all right

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bonding clamps the same we have the same resistance so i'm going to go from between

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the earth bar to my bonding clamp or my piece of water pipe

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and the same thing it's over 1 .5 so it's failing all right

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so at the moment i'm not having a good run

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but as this board's a fault board it's got faults in it the water pipe

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and the main earth are failed all right so we've done

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that test the next test i do after

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that is to check all my sub earths

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so i'll go from the power point here that's telling me it's got two

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and i work my way down to all my earths all right making sure

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so these are not doing too well at the moment

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because they're all very high readings this one hasn't even got it hasn't even moved

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so that tells me that the earth's not even hooked up to

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that one we come to here

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this is reading down to one back of the batten holder

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there's a little brass clip it sits in the back between the two pins

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that's where i want you to test to make sure the earth there

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so at the moment i'm testing between the main earth bar

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and the back clip and there's nothing reading there so

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that tells me that the earth is not um hooked up

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so there's no earth continuity there all right get into my stove

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and i've got continuity there a bit of a high resistance

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but i'm still showing continuity

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so now i've done all my earths all right done the checks

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and done um what i need to check if they fail

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or not but some of them are not even showing continuity

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so the next thing i'm going to do is we're going to do the whole installation

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we need to make sure that all circuit breakers are in the on position

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the men is disconnected okay all right this um

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the link has to be put through so my mains are going to be separated

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but the problem is i've got to put a link over here

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the reason i have to join this is why the meter is not connected exactly

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so this is where my meter the reason the neutral small

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on the meter is it's only going to read the voltage potential

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it doesn't have current passing through the neutral will come from here to this link bar all right

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when it goes from the link bar

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it goes straight to the neutral bar the problem with the active active comes to here goes through the meter

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and then back through the fuse back to

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sorry the main switch um we don't have to disconnect

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or do anything on the neutral bar here

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but the active we have to put a short between so what we're going to do now is we're testing

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between the actives right the neutral the neutral has been disconnected now

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because we don't have it at the same potential as the earth

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because the men has now been removed so the idea is to make sure

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that the insulation resistance between the active

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and neutral to earth is more than one mega ohm

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so what i'm going to do now is we're going to put

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that on to 500 volts

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which we've got test me meter to make sure it reads down to zero

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which it's doing okay now what we'll do

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is i'll go from the top of the main switch to the earth bar now

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that should be taking in my mains back to here

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and it should be doing

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so i've got between the active there now i'm going to test between the neutral as well between earth

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and neutral so i've still got a high resistance

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and the same with active to earth now see the active came down to a low value

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now some people i tend to test the active and neutral separately

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so that if there's a fault you can identify

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but what some people will do is they will put a bridge between you

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so if you want to do the whole insulation active

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and neutral at the same time i'll put a bridge between active it's a slippery little shit

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right so i've bridged the active and neutral together now watch

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if i do that between earth and the neutral now i'll get a low reading

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so now it's down to 0 .5 which is a fail okay

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and that means it's failed so now what i do is

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if i break that off and go between active i've got a fail down to zero point point.

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five which is a file i need one mega minimum all right

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so what another way

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you can do as i see as a quick check is you can start turning off circuits

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and if the meter creeps up that means you're eliminating the fault

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so if i did that it only works more on rcds

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because you're actually taking the active and neutral out of circuit

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but we have identified that if i go between earth

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and neutral it's actually all right it's reading a high resistance it's more than one mega ohm

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so my fault is in the active conductor so

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if i take out the lighting circuit it's now brought it up to one mega ohm

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if i turned off the power circuit it didn't change it much

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if i turn off the next one let's bring it let's brought it right up so it's removed it so

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i seem to have a problem on the power circuit

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and probably one of the lighting but

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if i bring the lighting back in it actually brings it back to one mega ohm

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but it could be a slight problem in there

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when i did the second one and brought

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that one back in it doesn't change much at all but

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when i do the power it actually brings it back down all right

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so the other one i can do the stove doesn't make any difference okay to change

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this one it brings it up a little bit the power circuit

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same with those i think me i would put my money back on the lighting circuit

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so what we'll do now so if you do find a fault on the mains the next step you normally do

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is you would go in and test each sub circuit.

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Do you understand what I'm getting at?

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So you turn all these off,

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you'd go between earth and you start looking and turning on lever turned off and test between the active and neutral

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and pick up each sub circuit.

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So this one here is giving me more than one mega ohm.

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That's okay.

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I'll then test the next one, more than one mega ohm.

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Come in here, test the active conductor and just below one mega ohm.

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right so we've got a fault and we work our way along the circuits um

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when we do insulation resistance test of a appliance what we will do is make sure

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this is turned on into the

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or on position the first thing i want to do is go back and check my earth

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so what i'll do is i'll set it back to three atoms

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make sure i've got continuity between here and my earth pin all right

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so what's that telling me if i've got that there nothing's shorting between

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what's that have i got an open circuit so there's no continuity

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when i short the leads together they go back to zero all right so we'll just readjust that again sorry

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but i'm getting no continuity

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so this could be a built -in fault i've only picked a random board

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so that's not quite going down

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so i've got a high resistance on my earth there

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so there's no real continuity of my earth

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it should be going back to zero all right something simple all right the next thing

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i'll do is go 500 volts test between earth

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and what am i getting should be coming up back up

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but i've got a high resistance there

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so it means the insulation resistance is okay i'm also going to check to the earth pin as well

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and i still have a high resistance so there's no short on

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that at the moment the problem i've got i did identify is between the earth pin of the frame

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and the earth sorry earth pin of the plug on the frame

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there is a high resistance there all right it's down a bit but not not low enough

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when we come to this one same one test between the frame

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and the earth so what i'll do is i'll to three ohms okay

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so now notice that one pretty much coming back to zero

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that tells me my earth is all okay

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and then what i'll do is i'll go back to 500 volts again

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and we go between the earth pin and the active

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and i have a very high high insulation value

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there as well somewhere around about five meg everything you do on appliances

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and the main installation has to be above one mega minimum all right

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if it's less than one mega fails okay all right and what did we say between

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single phase and three phase 500 volts on single phase a thousand

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and four fifteen all right

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so you're doing a three phase mater you've got to remember

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it's going to be on a thousand volts all right

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so as i said there's other tests the other test

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we've got to do is check the continuity of the mains

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so for me we leave this pushed into here

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and check the polarity so i'm going to go between the main switch

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and i'll go between here so i've got continuity on here

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and then what i do is go between the neutral bar and there

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so active is active neutral is neutral all right um rcd test

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we also go through to make sure the actives are switching the active conductor

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so what i'm going to do is we're going to pick

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this one here it's turned off and make sure the active conductor

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so that tells me that that's in the correct pole so

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that first one there i'll do the second one the switch is turning on

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and off so that identifies that the active is switching in the correct position all right

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if i come down to this one

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and pick up the active here i'm still doing it okay let's try the fourth one

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all right so that tells me

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that these two here are switching to this rcd okay these two here are switching to this rcd here

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so they're all working correctly all right i want

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you to go on the board here there's the list of all our tests

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that we do are in the rule book there's five of them

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or six sorry more tests as you work through them and

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if you've got any problems give me a yell I'm going to go.

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Vocabulario y notas de pronunciación para esta lección

Esta lección de conversación se basa en el vídeo “testing installation and what you need look for”. Las palabras que más se repiten: earth, test, active, neutral, resistance. Este vídeo tiene 258 frases y 3039 palabras para practicar shadowing. La parte hablada dura 15:49. El hablante habla rápido, unas 192 palabras por minuto, así que espera sonidos enlazados y reducidos. El 85 % de las palabras está entre las 3.000 más comunes del inglés; conviene repasar el resto antes de empezar.

Vocabulario clave de este vídeo

15 palabras del vídeo que vale la pena aprender, con su pronunciación y significado:

Palabra	Pronunciación	Significado
neutral adjetivo	/ˈnuː.tɹəl/	neutral
continuity sustantivo	/ˌkɑn.tɪˈn(j)u.ə.ti/	continuidad, rácord
insulation sustantivo	/ˌɪnsəˈleɪʃən/	aislamiento, aislación
conductor sustantivo	/kənˈdʌktɚ/	director
metre sustantivo	/ˈmiːtəɹ/	metro
stove sustantivo	/stoʊv/	estufa, calentador
strip verbo	/ˈstɹɪp/	remover
pipe sustantivo	/ˈpaɪp/	caramillo, flauta f)
installation sustantivo	/ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/	instalación
hook sustantivo	/hʊk/	gancho, garfio
stake sustantivo	/steɪk/	estaca
protective adjetivo	/pɹəˈtɛk.tɪv/	protector
voltage sustantivo	/ˈvəʊltɪd͡ʒ/	voltaje, tensión
element sustantivo	/ˈɛləmənt/	elemento
select verbo	/sɪˈlɛkt/	seleccionar, cribar

Phrasal verbs que vas a escuchar

Palabra	Significado
turn off verbo	apagar
pick up verbo	coger, asir
go through verbo	atravesar
back down verbo	recular, echarse atrás
back up verbo	retroceder, ciar
come up verbo	salir a relucir
pass through verbo	atravesar
put through verbo	poner con

Gramática en este vídeo

Las estructuras que más usa el hablante, con las palabras exactas del vídeo:

Estructura	En el vídeo
Voz pasiva be + participio pasado — importa lo que ocurre, no quién lo hace	is treated · be turned · be removed
Present perfect have/has + participio pasado — una acción pasada que sigue importando ahora	we've done · hasn't even moved · i've done
Oraciones de relativo who / which + oración — información extra sobre una persona o cosa	circuit, which is · earth which means · five which is

Pronunciación a tener en cuenta

El hablante usa 109 contracciones y formas reducidas, como I'm, I'll, we're. Dilas en su forma corta, tal como las oyes.

Los sonidos de “sh” y “zh”: insulation /ˌɪnsəˈleɪʃən/, installation /ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/, verification /ˌvɛ.ɹə.fɪˈkeɪ.ʃən/, homage /(h)oʊˈmɑʒ/, shorten /ˈʃɔɹtn̩/
Palabras largas — cuida el acento: continuity /ˌkɑn.tɪˈn(j)u.ə.ti/, insulation /ˌɪnsəˈleɪʃən/, installation /ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/, eliminate /ɪˈlɪm.ɪ.neɪt/, verification /ˌvɛ.ɹə.fɪˈkeɪ.ʃən/

Sonidos difíciles para hispanohablantes:

s + consonante al inicio — sin añadir una “e” delante: stove /stoʊv/, strip /ˈstɹɪp/, stake /steɪk/, slight /slaɪt/, sweep /swiːp/
/v/ — no es /b/: los dientes tocan el labio inferior: stove /stoʊv/, protective /pɹəˈtɛk.tɪv/, voltage /ˈvəʊltɪd͡ʒ/, verification /ˌvɛ.ɹə.fɪˈkeɪ.ʃən/, lever /ˈliː.və/
/z/ — sonora, no /s/: zoom /zuːm/, exhaust /ɪɡˈzɔst/, fuse /fjuːz/

Cómo practicar con este vídeo

Escucha el vídeo entero una vez sin hablar y anota las palabras que no conoces.
Empieza a velocidad 0,75×, haz shadowing frase por frase y vuelve a la velocidad normal cuando te resulte fácil.
Grábate y compara con el original, prestando atención a palabras como neutral, continuity, insulation.

¿Qué es la Técnica de Shadowing?

Shadowing es una técnica de aprendizaje de idiomas respaldada por la ciencia, desarrollada originalmente para la formación de intérpretes profesionales y popularizada por el políglota Dr. Alexander Arguelles. El método es simple pero poderoso: escuchas audio en inglés nativo y lo repites en voz alta de inmediato, como una sombra que sigue al hablante con solo 1-2 segundos de retraso. A diferencia de la escucha pasiva o los ejercicios de gramática, el shadowing obliga a tu cerebro y músculos de la boca a procesar y reproducir simultáneamente patrones de habla reales. Las investigaciones muestran que mejora significativamente la precisión de la pronunciación, la entonación, el ritmo, el habla conectada, la comprensión auditiva y la fluidez al hablar, convirtiéndola en una de las metodologías más efectivas para la preparación del IELTS Speaking y la comunicación en inglés en el mundo real.

Técnica de shadowing: lee la guía completa paso a paso →

Shadowing Practice: testing installation and what you need look for - Learn English Speaking with Video

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Vocabulario y notas de pronunciación para esta lección

Vocabulario clave de este vídeo

Phrasal verbs que vas a escuchar

Gramática en este vídeo

Pronunciación a tener en cuenta

Cómo practicar con este vídeo

¿Qué es la Técnica de Shadowing?