Shadowing Practice: testing installation and what you need look for - Learn English Speaking with Video

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basic insulation
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so what we've got is we've got the pit coming in here what we need to do is the first
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we've got a few tests
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that we need to go through the first one mostly
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we do is doing the earthing system first we have our main earth we have our water pipe
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which is our bonding conductor
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they come back here to the earth bar all right we have our men link
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which we're going to put in okay
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now what we have is we have a main switch stove the stove's
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now going to be an rcd okay this one's a circuit breaker
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but we will be changing we have two rcds protecting power
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and one protecting the light so our lighting circuit is the fan with the light switches here
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then we have four power sockets two on each rcd then we have the stove down here with the appliance
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and our earth point that's our first one here
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so this is treated as a separate appliance okay so
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when we're doing measuring today i want you to mega between the earth
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and the earth point here to make sure it's got continuity first
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and then what you do is you'll do an insulation test between here
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and the earth pin or between here and the earth earth itself make sure
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that the stove's turned on there's no use measuring something
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if it's in turned in the on off position all elements have to be turned on okay
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so that's our stove here we have a simple sweep fan
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or exhaust fan this being the metal part of the frame
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so we need to go from here to the earth pin
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and then make sure that the fans turned on
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and we do an insulation resistance test same as what i
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was talking about here insulation resistance test to make sure it's not down the ground these have to be removed
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when you're doing your circuit tests for the circuits
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because this going to create a fault on itself so make sure it's unplugged and switches from the on position
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so the first test we're going to do right is we're going to test the earthing conductor
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we're going to use a thing called the mega sorry insulation resistance test it can't be called a mega
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because it's a brand name so
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when we have a look at this the blue scale is
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what we're going to do in ohms the red scale is what we're going to do in insulation resistance test
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you'll notice we have three
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and five the first thing
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i need to do is do a battery check battery check's important all right i'll make sure my button's released but
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so what i do is shorten my meter leads together to a battery test okay
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that's telling me the battery's okay it's in a good position
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all right and then what i'll do is check my homage it's sitting on zero
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so zoom in for ohms we've got zero
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there sitting on zero perfect the other one then we do is we go to 500 volts
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and it goes back nearly to 0 ohms on that side there.
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All right.
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So it reads two different ways.
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Zero reads down here on the left.
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Sorry, down towards this way and zero reads on the opposite side.
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The difference with the red scale is that we're pumping 500 volts into 240 volt circuit, which is what this is.
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If we were doing a three -phase circuit, we would do 1 ,000 volts.
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Okay.
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Remember, it's a DC.
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This is DC, not AC that we're putting in we're putting dc in
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so it has to be double the voltage okay
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and dc will pick up faults a lot more than ac what's the problem with ac yeah
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it's kind of moving up
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and down it's going strong right dc is basically full strength all the time all right
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it's going to put a charge or a
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or a um demand on the circuits all the time it's not going to be moving up and down
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all right look at the ac sine wave anyway the first thing we need to do
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if you're checking under verification in the rule book it has all about visual faults
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and then it starts like there's a little flow diagram
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there the main thing you need to check is make sure the installation part
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is that the main earth is working to the earth bar all right then we check the bonding conductors
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and then we go through to check to all the what we call protective uh earths
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which are the ones that run out with an active
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and neutral to each power point
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and then your body body conductor doesn't have an active
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and neutral running out with it all right
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so these are what we call protective earth which means is if we get a fault between active or neutral
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the earth will give us a return path of current
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so what i'm going to do what's my maximum resistance
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so what i'm going to do is now select
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it to um ohms three ohms all right the rule book says
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it shouldn't be more than 0 .05 okay we don't want a high um resistance
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because if we've got
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that we've got a problem one thing
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you need to be careful of is don't do it from here to the clip
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so if i go from the earth bar i'm going to put my emmy
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and link out as well
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if you go from here on the earth bar don't do it to the um to the clip
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because there could be a high resistance under the earth stake do you understand what i'm getting
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it needs to go to the earth stake
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which is sitting on top here all right
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so i'm getting a resistance of um just over 1 .5
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which is a fail it's more than 0 .5
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so that's telling me it's a difference and
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if i go here it's about the same sometimes you'd be surprised
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when you go from the pipe to the clamp how much the resistance could change
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all right because there could be a high resistance all right okay
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so that tells me that fails that means to be adjusted
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or looked at
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if we have a strip earth the reason
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i'm going to talk about the strip earth now is you won't have this tag on here
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and you won't have the clamp a strip earth will come
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out of the board run down straight in the ground
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and that's it and that's about 25 mil square
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so it's a very hard it's pretty hard to do a test
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or a what we call um continuity test on a strip earth
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because it's a set length
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and it doesn't have any joins in it okay the reason we do this test is
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because we've got this join here that can give us a high resistance all right
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bonding clamps the same we have the same resistance so i'm going to go from between
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the earth bar to my bonding clamp or my piece of water pipe
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and the same thing it's over 1 .5 so it's failing all right
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so at the moment i'm not having a good run
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but as this board's a fault board it's got faults in it the water pipe
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and the main earth are failed all right so we've done
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that test the next test i do after
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that is to check all my sub earths
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so i'll go from the power point here that's telling me it's got two
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and i work my way down to all my earths all right making sure
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so these are not doing too well at the moment
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because they're all very high readings this one hasn't even got it hasn't even moved
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so that tells me that the earth's not even hooked up to
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that one we come to here
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this is reading down to one back of the batten holder
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there's a little brass clip it sits in the back between the two pins
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that's where i want you to test to make sure the earth there
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so at the moment i'm testing between the main earth bar
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and the back clip and there's nothing reading there so
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that tells me that the earth is not um hooked up
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so there's no earth continuity there all right get into my stove
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and i've got continuity there a bit of a high resistance
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but i'm still showing continuity
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so now i've done all my earths all right done the checks
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and done um what i need to check if they fail
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or not but some of them are not even showing continuity
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so the next thing i'm going to do is we're going to do the whole installation
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we need to make sure that all circuit breakers are in the on position
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the men is disconnected okay all right this um
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the link has to be put through so my mains are going to be separated
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but the problem is i've got to put a link over here
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the reason i have to join this is why the meter is not connected exactly
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so this is where my meter the reason the neutral small
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on the meter is it's only going to read the voltage potential
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it doesn't have current passing through the neutral will come from here to this link bar all right
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when it goes from the link bar
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it goes straight to the neutral bar the problem with the active active comes to here goes through the meter
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and then back through the fuse back to
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sorry the main switch um we don't have to disconnect
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or do anything on the neutral bar here
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but the active we have to put a short between so what we're going to do now is we're testing
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between the actives right the neutral the neutral has been disconnected now
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because we don't have it at the same potential as the earth
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because the men has now been removed so the idea is to make sure
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that the insulation resistance between the active
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and neutral to earth is more than one mega ohm
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so what i'm going to do now is we're going to put
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that on to 500 volts
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which we've got test me meter to make sure it reads down to zero
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which it's doing okay now what we'll do
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is i'll go from the top of the main switch to the earth bar now
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that should be taking in my mains back to here
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and it should be doing
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so i've got between the active there now i'm going to test between the neutral as well between earth
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and neutral so i've still got a high resistance
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and the same with active to earth now see the active came down to a low value
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now some people i tend to test the active and neutral separately
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so that if there's a fault you can identify
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but what some people will do is they will put a bridge between you
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so if you want to do the whole insulation active
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and neutral at the same time i'll put a bridge between active it's a slippery little shit
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right so i've bridged the active and neutral together now watch
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if i do that between earth and the neutral now i'll get a low reading
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so now it's down to 0 .5 which is a fail okay
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and that means it's failed so now what i do is
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if i break that off and go between active i've got a fail down to zero point point.
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five which is a file i need one mega minimum all right
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so what another way
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you can do as i see as a quick check is you can start turning off circuits
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and if the meter creeps up that means you're eliminating the fault
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so if i did that it only works more on rcds
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because you're actually taking the active and neutral out of circuit
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but we have identified that if i go between earth
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and neutral it's actually all right it's reading a high resistance it's more than one mega ohm
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so my fault is in the active conductor so
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if i take out the lighting circuit it's now brought it up to one mega ohm
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if i turned off the power circuit it didn't change it much
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if i turn off the next one let's bring it let's brought it right up so it's removed it so
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i seem to have a problem on the power circuit
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and probably one of the lighting but
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if i bring the lighting back in it actually brings it back to one mega ohm
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but it could be a slight problem in there
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when i did the second one and brought
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that one back in it doesn't change much at all but
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when i do the power it actually brings it back down all right
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so the other one i can do the stove doesn't make any difference okay to change
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this one it brings it up a little bit the power circuit
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same with those i think me i would put my money back on the lighting circuit
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so what we'll do now so if you do find a fault on the mains the next step you normally do
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is you would go in and test each sub circuit.
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Do you understand what I'm getting at?
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So you turn all these off,
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you'd go between earth and you start looking and turning on lever turned off and test between the active and neutral
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and pick up each sub circuit.
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So this one here is giving me more than one mega ohm.
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That's okay.
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I'll then test the next one, more than one mega ohm.
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Come in here, test the active conductor and just below one mega ohm.
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right so we've got a fault and we work our way along the circuits um
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when we do insulation resistance test of a appliance what we will do is make sure
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this is turned on into the
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or on position the first thing i want to do is go back and check my earth
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so what i'll do is i'll set it back to three atoms
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make sure i've got continuity between here and my earth pin all right
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so what's that telling me if i've got that there nothing's shorting between
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what's that have i got an open circuit so there's no continuity
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when i short the leads together they go back to zero all right so we'll just readjust that again sorry
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but i'm getting no continuity
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so this could be a built -in fault i've only picked a random board
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so that's not quite going down
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so i've got a high resistance on my earth there
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so there's no real continuity of my earth
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it should be going back to zero all right something simple all right the next thing
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i'll do is go 500 volts test between earth
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and what am i getting should be coming up back up
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but i've got a high resistance there
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so it means the insulation resistance is okay i'm also going to check to the earth pin as well
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and i still have a high resistance so there's no short on
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that at the moment the problem i've got i did identify is between the earth pin of the frame
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and the earth sorry earth pin of the plug on the frame
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there is a high resistance there all right it's down a bit but not not low enough
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when we come to this one same one test between the frame
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and the earth so what i'll do is i'll to three ohms okay
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so now notice that one pretty much coming back to zero
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that tells me my earth is all okay
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and then what i'll do is i'll go back to 500 volts again
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and we go between the earth pin and the active
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and i have a very high high insulation value
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there as well somewhere around about five meg everything you do on appliances
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and the main installation has to be above one mega minimum all right
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if it's less than one mega fails okay all right and what did we say between
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single phase and three phase 500 volts on single phase a thousand
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and four fifteen all right
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so you're doing a three phase mater you've got to remember
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it's going to be on a thousand volts all right
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so as i said there's other tests the other test
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we've got to do is check the continuity of the mains
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so for me we leave this pushed into here
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and check the polarity so i'm going to go between the main switch
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and i'll go between here so i've got continuity on here
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and then what i do is go between the neutral bar and there
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so active is active neutral is neutral all right um rcd test
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we also go through to make sure the actives are switching the active conductor
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so what i'm going to do is we're going to pick
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this one here it's turned off and make sure the active conductor
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so that tells me that that's in the correct pole so
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that first one there i'll do the second one the switch is turning on
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and off so that identifies that the active is switching in the correct position all right
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if i come down to this one
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and pick up the active here i'm still doing it okay let's try the fourth one
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all right so that tells me
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that these two here are switching to this rcd okay these two here are switching to this rcd here
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so they're all working correctly all right i want
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you to go on the board here there's the list of all our tests
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that we do are in the rule book there's five of them
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or six sorry more tests as you work through them and
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if you've got any problems give me a yell I'm going to go.

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Vocabulary and speaking notes for this lesson

This speaking lesson is built on the video “testing installation and what you need look for”. The speaker keeps coming back to these words: earth, test, active, neutral, resistance. This video has 258 sentences and 3039 words to shadow. The speech runs for 15:49. The speaker talks fast, about 192 words per minute, so expect linked and reduced sounds. 85% of the words are among the 3,000 most common in English; the rest is worth studying before you start.

Key vocabulary in this video

15 words from the video worth learning, with pronunciation and meaning:

WordPronunciationMeaning
neutral adjective/ˈnuː.tɹəl/Not taking sides in a conflict such as war; nonaligned.
circuit noun/ˈsɝ.kɪt/The act of moving or revolving around, or as in a circle or orbit; a revolution
mega adjective/ˈmɛɡə/Very large.
continuity noun/ˌkɑn.tɪˈn(j)u.ə.ti/Lack of interruption or disconnection; the quality of being continuous in space or time.
insulation noun/ˌɪnsəˈleɪʃən/The act of insulating; detachment from other objects; isolation.
conductor noun/kənˈdʌktɚ/One who conducts or leads; a guide; a director.
metre noun/ˈmiːtəɹ/The basic unit of length in the International System of Units (SI: Système International d'Unités), equal to the distance travelled by light in a vacuum in…
stove noun/stoʊv/A heater, a closed apparatus to burn fuel for the warming of a room.
strip verb/ˈstɹɪp/To remove or take away, often in strips or stripes.
clip noun/klɪp/Something which clips or grasps; a device for attaching one object to another.
pipe noun/ˈpaɪp/A wind instrument consisting of a tube, often lined with holes to allow for adjustment in pitch, sounded by blowing into the tube.
installation noun/ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/An act of installing.
hook noun/hʊk/A rod bent into a curved shape, typically with one end free and the other end secured to a rope or other attachment.
stake noun/steɪk/A piece of wood or other material, usually long and slender, pointed at one end so as to be easily driven into the ground as a marker or a support or stay.
protective adjective/pɹəˈtɛk.tɪv/Serving or intended to protect.

Phrasal verbs you will hear

WordMeaning
turn off verbTo power down, to switch off, to put out of operation, to deactivate (an appliance, light, mechanism, functionality etc.).
go back to verbTo stem from; to originate in.
pick up verbTo lift; to grasp and raise.
come down to verbTo reach by moving down or reducing.
go back verbTo return to a place or state after having been there at a previous time.
go through verbTo travel from one end of something to the other.
move up verbTo promote, put onto a higher level.
back down verbTo take a less aggressive position in a conflict than one previously had, or has planned to have.

Grammar in this video

The structures the speaker uses most, with the exact words from the video:

StructureIn the video
Passive voice be + past participle — the focus is on what happens, not who does itis treated · be turned · be removed
Present perfect have/has + past participle — a past action that still matters nowwe've done · hasn't even moved · i've done
Relative clauses who / which + clause — extra information about a person or thingcircuit, which is · earth which means · five which is

Pronunciation to watch

The speaker uses 109 contractions and reduced forms, such as I'm, I'll, we're. Say them the short way, as you hear them.

  • The “sh” and “zh” sounds: insulation /ˌɪnsəˈleɪʃən/, installation /ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/, verification /ˌvɛ.ɹə.fɪˈkeɪ.ʃən/, homage /(h)oʊˈmɑʒ/, shorten /ˈʃɔɹtn̩/
  • Long words — get the stress right: continuity /ˌkɑn.tɪˈn(j)u.ə.ti/, insulation /ˌɪnsəˈleɪʃən/, installation /ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/, eliminate /ɪˈlɪm.ɪ.neɪt/, verification /ˌvɛ.ɹə.fɪˈkeɪ.ʃən/

How to practise with this video

  1. Listen to the whole video once without speaking and note the words you do not know.
  2. Start at 0.75× speed, shadow it sentence by sentence, then go back to normal speed once it feels easy.
  3. Record yourself and compare with the original, paying attention to words like neutral, circuit, mega.

What is the Shadowing Technique?

Shadowing is a science-backed language learning technique originally developed for professional interpreter training and popularized by polyglot Dr. Alexander Arguelles. The method is simple but powerful: you listen to native English audio and immediately repeat it out loud — like a shadow following the speaker with just a 1–2 second delay. Unlike passive listening or grammar drills, shadowing forces your brain and mouth muscles to simultaneously process and reproduce real speech patterns. Research shows it significantly improves pronunciation accuracy, intonation, rhythm, connected speech, listening comprehension, and speaking fluency — making it one of the most effective methods for IELTS Speaking preparation and real-world English communication.

Shadowing technique: read the full step-by-step guide →