शैडोइंग अभ्यास: testing installation and what you need look for - वीडियो के साथ अंग्रेजी बोलना सीखें

अभ्यास मोड चुनें

हर मोड पूरी स्क्रीन का अभ्यास कक्ष खोलता है।

258 वाक्य

यदि वाक्य बहुत छोटे या लंबे हों, तो समायोजित करने के लिए Edit पर क्लिक करें।

basic insulation

so what we've got is we've got the pit coming in here what we need to do is the first

we've got a few tests

that we need to go through the first one mostly

we do is doing the earthing system first we have our main earth we have our water pipe

which is our bonding conductor

they come back here to the earth bar all right we have our men link

which we're going to put in okay

now what we have is we have a main switch stove the stove's

now going to be an rcd okay this one's a circuit breaker

but we will be changing we have two rcds protecting power

and one protecting the light so our lighting circuit is the fan with the light switches here

then we have four power sockets two on each rcd then we have the stove down here with the appliance

and our earth point that's our first one here

so this is treated as a separate appliance okay so

when we're doing measuring today i want you to mega between the earth

and the earth point here to make sure it's got continuity first

and then what you do is you'll do an insulation test between here

and the earth pin or between here and the earth earth itself make sure

that the stove's turned on there's no use measuring something

if it's in turned in the on off position all elements have to be turned on okay

so that's our stove here we have a simple sweep fan

or exhaust fan this being the metal part of the frame

so we need to go from here to the earth pin

and then make sure that the fans turned on

and we do an insulation resistance test same as what i

was talking about here insulation resistance test to make sure it's not down the ground these have to be removed

when you're doing your circuit tests for the circuits

because this going to create a fault on itself so make sure it's unplugged and switches from the on position

so the first test we're going to do right is we're going to test the earthing conductor

we're going to use a thing called the mega sorry insulation resistance test it can't be called a mega

because it's a brand name so

when we have a look at this the blue scale is

what we're going to do in ohms the red scale is what we're going to do in insulation resistance test

you'll notice we have three

and five the first thing

i need to do is do a battery check battery check's important all right i'll make sure my button's released but

so what i do is shorten my meter leads together to a battery test okay

that's telling me the battery's okay it's in a good position

all right and then what i'll do is check my homage it's sitting on zero

so zoom in for ohms we've got zero

there sitting on zero perfect the other one then we do is we go to 500 volts

and it goes back nearly to 0 ohms on that side there.

All right.

So it reads two different ways.

Zero reads down here on the left.

Sorry, down towards this way and zero reads on the opposite side.

The difference with the red scale is that we're pumping 500 volts into 240 volt circuit, which is what this is.

If we were doing a three -phase circuit, we would do 1 ,000 volts.

Okay.

Remember, it's a DC.

This is DC, not AC that we're putting in we're putting dc in

so it has to be double the voltage okay

and dc will pick up faults a lot more than ac what's the problem with ac yeah

it's kind of moving up

and down it's going strong right dc is basically full strength all the time all right

it's going to put a charge or a

or a um demand on the circuits all the time it's not going to be moving up and down

all right look at the ac sine wave anyway the first thing we need to do

if you're checking under verification in the rule book it has all about visual faults

and then it starts like there's a little flow diagram

there the main thing you need to check is make sure the installation part

is that the main earth is working to the earth bar all right then we check the bonding conductors

and then we go through to check to all the what we call protective uh earths

which are the ones that run out with an active

and neutral to each power point

and then your body body conductor doesn't have an active

and neutral running out with it all right

so these are what we call protective earth which means is if we get a fault between active or neutral

the earth will give us a return path of current

so what i'm going to do what's my maximum resistance

so what i'm going to do is now select

it to um ohms three ohms all right the rule book says

it shouldn't be more than 0 .05 okay we don't want a high um resistance

because if we've got

that we've got a problem one thing

you need to be careful of is don't do it from here to the clip

so if i go from the earth bar i'm going to put my emmy

and link out as well

if you go from here on the earth bar don't do it to the um to the clip

because there could be a high resistance under the earth stake do you understand what i'm getting

it needs to go to the earth stake

which is sitting on top here all right

so i'm getting a resistance of um just over 1 .5

which is a fail it's more than 0 .5

so that's telling me it's a difference and

if i go here it's about the same sometimes you'd be surprised

when you go from the pipe to the clamp how much the resistance could change

all right because there could be a high resistance all right okay

so that tells me that fails that means to be adjusted

or looked at

if we have a strip earth the reason

i'm going to talk about the strip earth now is you won't have this tag on here

and you won't have the clamp a strip earth will come

out of the board run down straight in the ground

and that's it and that's about 25 mil square

so it's a very hard it's pretty hard to do a test

or a what we call um continuity test on a strip earth

because it's a set length

100

and it doesn't have any joins in it okay the reason we do this test is

101

because we've got this join here that can give us a high resistance all right

102

bonding clamps the same we have the same resistance so i'm going to go from between

103

the earth bar to my bonding clamp or my piece of water pipe

104

and the same thing it's over 1 .5 so it's failing all right

105

so at the moment i'm not having a good run

106

but as this board's a fault board it's got faults in it the water pipe

107

and the main earth are failed all right so we've done

108

that test the next test i do after

109

that is to check all my sub earths

110

so i'll go from the power point here that's telling me it's got two

111

and i work my way down to all my earths all right making sure

112

so these are not doing too well at the moment

113

because they're all very high readings this one hasn't even got it hasn't even moved

114

so that tells me that the earth's not even hooked up to

115

that one we come to here

116

this is reading down to one back of the batten holder

117

there's a little brass clip it sits in the back between the two pins

118

that's where i want you to test to make sure the earth there

119

so at the moment i'm testing between the main earth bar

120

and the back clip and there's nothing reading there so

121

that tells me that the earth is not um hooked up

122

so there's no earth continuity there all right get into my stove

123

and i've got continuity there a bit of a high resistance

124

but i'm still showing continuity

125

so now i've done all my earths all right done the checks

126

and done um what i need to check if they fail

127

or not but some of them are not even showing continuity

128

so the next thing i'm going to do is we're going to do the whole installation

129

we need to make sure that all circuit breakers are in the on position

130

the men is disconnected okay all right this um

131

the link has to be put through so my mains are going to be separated

132

but the problem is i've got to put a link over here

133

the reason i have to join this is why the meter is not connected exactly

134

so this is where my meter the reason the neutral small

135

on the meter is it's only going to read the voltage potential

136

it doesn't have current passing through the neutral will come from here to this link bar all right

137

when it goes from the link bar

138

it goes straight to the neutral bar the problem with the active active comes to here goes through the meter

139

and then back through the fuse back to

140

sorry the main switch um we don't have to disconnect

141

or do anything on the neutral bar here

142

but the active we have to put a short between so what we're going to do now is we're testing

143

between the actives right the neutral the neutral has been disconnected now

144

because we don't have it at the same potential as the earth

145

because the men has now been removed so the idea is to make sure

146

that the insulation resistance between the active

147

and neutral to earth is more than one mega ohm

148

so what i'm going to do now is we're going to put

149

that on to 500 volts

150

which we've got test me meter to make sure it reads down to zero

151

which it's doing okay now what we'll do

152

is i'll go from the top of the main switch to the earth bar now

153

that should be taking in my mains back to here

154

and it should be doing

155

so i've got between the active there now i'm going to test between the neutral as well between earth

156

and neutral so i've still got a high resistance

157

and the same with active to earth now see the active came down to a low value

158

now some people i tend to test the active and neutral separately

159

so that if there's a fault you can identify

160

but what some people will do is they will put a bridge between you

161

so if you want to do the whole insulation active

162

and neutral at the same time i'll put a bridge between active it's a slippery little shit

163

right so i've bridged the active and neutral together now watch

164

if i do that between earth and the neutral now i'll get a low reading

165

so now it's down to 0 .5 which is a fail okay

166

and that means it's failed so now what i do is

167

if i break that off and go between active i've got a fail down to zero point point.

168

five which is a file i need one mega minimum all right

169

so what another way

170

you can do as i see as a quick check is you can start turning off circuits

171

and if the meter creeps up that means you're eliminating the fault

172

so if i did that it only works more on rcds

173

because you're actually taking the active and neutral out of circuit

174

but we have identified that if i go between earth

175

and neutral it's actually all right it's reading a high resistance it's more than one mega ohm

176

so my fault is in the active conductor so

177

if i take out the lighting circuit it's now brought it up to one mega ohm

178

if i turned off the power circuit it didn't change it much

179

if i turn off the next one let's bring it let's brought it right up so it's removed it so

180

i seem to have a problem on the power circuit

181

and probably one of the lighting but

182

if i bring the lighting back in it actually brings it back to one mega ohm

183

but it could be a slight problem in there

184

when i did the second one and brought

185

that one back in it doesn't change much at all but

186

when i do the power it actually brings it back down all right

187

so the other one i can do the stove doesn't make any difference okay to change

188

this one it brings it up a little bit the power circuit

189

same with those i think me i would put my money back on the lighting circuit

190

so what we'll do now so if you do find a fault on the mains the next step you normally do

191

is you would go in and test each sub circuit.

192

Do you understand what I'm getting at?

193

So you turn all these off,

194

you'd go between earth and you start looking and turning on lever turned off and test between the active and neutral

195

and pick up each sub circuit.

196

So this one here is giving me more than one mega ohm.

197

That's okay.

198

I'll then test the next one, more than one mega ohm.

199

Come in here, test the active conductor and just below one mega ohm.

200

right so we've got a fault and we work our way along the circuits um

201

when we do insulation resistance test of a appliance what we will do is make sure

202

this is turned on into the

203

or on position the first thing i want to do is go back and check my earth

204

so what i'll do is i'll set it back to three atoms

205

make sure i've got continuity between here and my earth pin all right

206

so what's that telling me if i've got that there nothing's shorting between

207

what's that have i got an open circuit so there's no continuity

208

when i short the leads together they go back to zero all right so we'll just readjust that again sorry

209

but i'm getting no continuity

210

so this could be a built -in fault i've only picked a random board

211

so that's not quite going down

212

so i've got a high resistance on my earth there

213

so there's no real continuity of my earth

214

it should be going back to zero all right something simple all right the next thing

215

i'll do is go 500 volts test between earth

216

and what am i getting should be coming up back up

217

but i've got a high resistance there

218

so it means the insulation resistance is okay i'm also going to check to the earth pin as well

219

and i still have a high resistance so there's no short on

220

that at the moment the problem i've got i did identify is between the earth pin of the frame

221

and the earth sorry earth pin of the plug on the frame

222

there is a high resistance there all right it's down a bit but not not low enough

223

when we come to this one same one test between the frame

224

and the earth so what i'll do is i'll to three ohms okay

225

so now notice that one pretty much coming back to zero

226

that tells me my earth is all okay

227

and then what i'll do is i'll go back to 500 volts again

228

and we go between the earth pin and the active

229

and i have a very high high insulation value

230

there as well somewhere around about five meg everything you do on appliances

231

and the main installation has to be above one mega minimum all right

232

if it's less than one mega fails okay all right and what did we say between

233

single phase and three phase 500 volts on single phase a thousand

234

and four fifteen all right

235

so you're doing a three phase mater you've got to remember

236

it's going to be on a thousand volts all right

237

so as i said there's other tests the other test

238

we've got to do is check the continuity of the mains

239

so for me we leave this pushed into here

240

and check the polarity so i'm going to go between the main switch

241

and i'll go between here so i've got continuity on here

242

and then what i do is go between the neutral bar and there

243

so active is active neutral is neutral all right um rcd test

244

we also go through to make sure the actives are switching the active conductor

245

so what i'm going to do is we're going to pick

246

this one here it's turned off and make sure the active conductor

247

so that tells me that that's in the correct pole so

248

that first one there i'll do the second one the switch is turning on

249

and off so that identifies that the active is switching in the correct position all right

250

if i come down to this one

251

and pick up the active here i'm still doing it okay let's try the fourth one

252

all right so that tells me

253

that these two here are switching to this rcd okay these two here are switching to this rcd here

254

so they're all working correctly all right i want

255

you to go on the board here there's the list of all our tests

256

that we do are in the rule book there's five of them

257

or six sorry more tests as you work through them and

258

if you've got any problems give me a yell I'm going to go.

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इस पाठ की शब्दावली और बोलने के सुझाव

यह स्पीकिंग पाठ वीडियो “testing installation and what you need look for” पर आधारित है। सबसे ज़्यादा दोहराए गए शब्द ये हैं: earth, test, active, neutral, resistance। इस वीडियो में शैडोइंग के लिए 258 वाक्य और 3039 शब्द हैं। बोला गया हिस्सा 15:49 लंबा है। वक्ता तेज़ बोलता है, लगभग 192 शब्द प्रति मिनट, इसलिए जुड़ी हुई और कमज़ोर ध्वनियाँ ज़्यादा मिलेंगी। 85% शब्द अंग्रेज़ी के 3,000 सबसे आम शब्दों में से हैं; बाकी शब्द अभ्यास से पहले देख लेना अच्छा रहेगा।

इस वीडियो की मुख्य शब्दावली

वीडियो के 15 सीखने लायक शब्द, उच्चारण और अर्थ के साथ:

शब्द	उच्चारण	अर्थ
neutral विशेषण	/ˈnuː.tɹəl/	तटस्थ
continuity संज्ञा	/ˌkɑn.tɪˈn(j)u.ə.ti/	निरंतरता
conductor संज्ञा	/kənˈdʌktɚ/	संचालक, कंडक्टर
metre संज्ञा	/ˈmiːtəɹ/	मीटर
stove संज्ञा	/stoʊv/	चूल्हा, स्टोव
hook संज्ञा	/hʊk/	अंकुश, आंकड़ा
voltage संज्ञा	/ˈvəʊltɪd͡ʒ/	विभवांतर, वोल्टता
element संज्ञा	/ˈɛləmənt/	तत्त्व
select क्रिया	/sɪˈlɛkt/	चुनना, चयन करना
pin संज्ञा	/pɪn/	पिन
pump संज्ञा	/pʌmp/	पंप, पम्प
pole संज्ञा	/pəʊl/	ध्रुव, क़ुतुब
slight विशेषण	/slaɪt/	थोड़ा
holder संज्ञा	/ˈhoʊɫdɚ/	धारक
separately क्रिया विशेषण	/ˈsɛp.ɹət.li/	अलग, अलग अलग

वीडियो में आने वाली फ़्रेज़ल वर्ब

शब्द	अर्थ
turn off क्रिया	बंद करना
pick up क्रिया	उठाना
come back क्रिया	वापस आना

इस वीडियो का व्याकरण

वक्ता जिन संरचनाओं का सबसे अधिक प्रयोग करता है, वीडियो के असली शब्दों के साथ:

संरचना	वीडियो में
Passive voice be + past participle — ज़ोर इस पर कि क्या होता है, न कि कौन करता है	is treated · be turned · be removed
Present perfect have/has + past participle — बीता हुआ काम जिसका असर अभी भी है	we've done · hasn't even moved · i've done
Relative clauses who / which + उपवाक्य — व्यक्ति या वस्तु के बारे में अतिरिक्त जानकारी	circuit, which is · earth which means · five which is

ध्यान देने योग्य उच्चारण

वक्ता 109 बार संक्षिप्त रूपों का प्रयोग करता है, जैसे I'm, I'll, we're। इन्हें वैसे ही छोटा बोलें जैसा आप सुनते हैं।

“sh” और “zh” की ध्वनियाँ: insulation /ˌɪnsəˈleɪʃən/, installation /ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/, verification /ˌvɛ.ɹə.fɪˈkeɪ.ʃən/, homage /(h)oʊˈmɑʒ/, shorten /ˈʃɔɹtn̩/
लंबे शब्द — बलाघात सही रखें: continuity /ˌkɑn.tɪˈn(j)u.ə.ti/, insulation /ˌɪnsəˈleɪʃən/, installation /ˌɪn.stəˈleɪ.ʃən/, eliminate /ɪˈlɪm.ɪ.neɪt/, verification /ˌvɛ.ɹə.fɪˈkeɪ.ʃən/

हिंदी भाषियों के लिए मुश्किल ध्वनियाँ:

/v/ और /w/ का फ़र्क़ — /v/ में ऊपर के दाँत निचले होंठ को छूते हैं, /w/ में होंठ गोल होते हैं: stove /stoʊv/, protective /pɹəˈtɛk.tɪv/, voltage /ˈvəʊltɪd͡ʒ/, sweep /swiːp/, verification /ˌvɛ.ɹə.fɪˈkeɪ.ʃən/
/z/ — इसे “ज” (/dʒ/) न बनाएँ: zoom /zuːm/, exhaust /ɪɡˈzɔst/, fuse /fjuːz/
शब्द की शुरुआत में s + व्यंजन — पहले “इ” न जोड़ें: stove /stoʊv/, strip /ˈstɹɪp/, stake /steɪk/, slight /slaɪt/, sweep /swiːp/

इस वीडियो से अभ्यास कैसे करें

पहले बिना बोले पूरा वीडियो एक बार सुनें और जो शब्द नहीं आते उन्हें लिख लें।
0.75× गति से शुरू करें, एक-एक वाक्य की शैडोइंग करें, और सहज लगने पर सामान्य गति पर लौटें।
अपनी आवाज़ रिकॉर्ड करें और मूल से तुलना करें, ख़ासकर neutral, continuity, conductor जैसे शब्दों पर ध्यान दें।

शैडोइंग तकनीक क्या है?

शैडोइंग (Shadowing) एक विज्ञान-समर्थित भाषा सीखने की तकनीक है जो मूल रूप से पेशेवर दुभाषिया प्रशिक्षण के लिए विकसित की गई थी। विधि सरल लेकिन शक्तिशाली है: आप मूल अंग्रेज़ी ऑडियो सुनते हैं और तुरंत इसे ज़ोर से दोहराते हैं — जैसे वक्ता की छाया 1-2 सेकंड की देरी से। शोध से पता चलता है कि यह उच्चारण सटीकता, स्वर, लय, जुड़ी हुई ध्वनियाँ, सुनने की समझ और बोलने की प्रवाहशीलता में काफ़ी सुधार करता है।

शैडोइंग तकनीक: पूरी चरण-दर-चरण गाइड पढ़ें →

शैडोइंग अभ्यास: testing installation and what you need look for - वीडियो के साथ अंग्रेजी बोलना सीखें

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