Shadowing Practice: Building the world's largest WORKING iPhone! - Learn English Speaking with Video
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Aaron here has set me the biggest challenge of my entire YouTube career, building the world's largest iPhone.
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Pretty much everyone's familiar with the iPhone, but why on earth build a giant one?
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Well, we are just about to overtake Apple in subscribers on our YouTube channel, and we need something to commemorate the moment.
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This is a huge deal, considering that it's a small team versus a massive corporation.
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However, building the world's literal largest iPhone, I have a feeling it's not going to be easy.
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Every component on the phone has to be fully functional.
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The screen, cameras, speakers, even the buttons.
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All of it needs to be made on a giant scale.
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This is a project you don't want to miss.
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We're aiming for the stars here.
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So the screen we're going to be using for this project is in fact an 88 inch OLED TV.
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And being OLED, it should match the iPhone in image quality, which would be really good.
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But one feature it's missing is obviously touch capabilities.
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It's a TV.
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Of course it's not going to have touchscreen.
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Now, you can get large format touchscreen displays, but they're all based on dated LCD technology, and that will not do for this project.
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So to stick with OLED, we can mimic what smartphone manufacturers do by literally gluing a touchscreen layer on top.
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As you can imagine, these aren't easy to come by at this scale.
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But Aaron's team has managed to arrange for one to be especially manufactured to exactly the right dimensions.
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Testing it out reveals the first challenge though.
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The touch layer doesn't work when it's in direct contact with the TV's glass surface.
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There is simply too much interference introduced by the OLED array beneath it.
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This isn't too surprising considering that the capacitive touch foil isn't intended to be mounted directly to a display like this, but after some experimentation I've found
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that a quick workaround is to first lay down a sheet
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of acrylic to separate the touch foil from the TV's front surface, creating a sort of buffer that allows the touch foil to operate normally.
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As you can see, though, these extra layers on top make the screen appear dirty and washed out, which completely negates the benefits of the OLED panel.
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The cause of this can actually be observed on a small
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scale by holding a transparent plastic sheet against a piece of black vinyl, where it's given a grey appearance because of the air gap between them.
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This is why high quality touch displays, including your smartphone, are often laminated with optically clear glue,
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as the glue bonds the two layers together and changes how light passes through them, preserving contrast and clarity.
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This glue is usually referred to as loka glue, or liquid optically clear adhesive.
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It only sets when exposed to UV light, where it will cure in a few seconds to form a flexible silicon-like bond.
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Very cool.
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After peeling the protective films off both the acrylic and the TV, this glue can now be applied directly on the TV's front surface.
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And lowering the acrylic onto it with the help of my dad, we can start to see the contrast immediately returning to the layer, which is hugely satisfying.
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But it's also apparent that one vial of glue is nowhere near enough to spread to the edges.
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What a mistake.
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The only solution is to inject more glue underneath the acrylic with some tubing, which works, but it results in a huge amount of bubbles that need to be rolled out.
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And as the glue is quite gloopy, it takes a while.
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Still, after a lot of effort, it's starting to look pretty good.
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Oh my goodness, it's finally done.
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That took forever.
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That was like literally two solid days of work.
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But at least it's done now and after curing it by progressively moving the UV lights across it, it's time to glue on the touch layer.
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Learning from my mistakes, I've this time emptied several vials of glue into a jug
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so that they can all be dumped onto the display in one go, and it's really paid off as it reaches the perimeter without too much effort.
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We're not out of the woods yet though.
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This touch layer is very fragile, so cannot be the front surface that people interact with when they use the final phone.
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So guess what that means?
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Another acrylic layer, of course.
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In addition to featuring a special hard coating to protect it from scratches, this final sheet is much larger as it also features a
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painted-on bezel to cover the outer edges of the touchfoil to keep things visually neat.
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It unfortunately still takes ages to squeeze out all of the bubbles despite the better application technique, but once it is clear, it can, just like every layer,
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be cured with the UV lights.
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This means that the last protective film can be peeled away so that we can finally inspect the surface quality.
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And there are problems.
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Big problems.
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For the most part, the screen is clear, but there are patches around the perimeter where the glue has ended up being too thin and so has delaminated,
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resulting in air pockets.
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And what's worse, upon powering on the TV, there are visible lines across it, with some pixel rows behaving abnormally.
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In a bit of a panic we flipped the TV over to see if there was anything obvious going wrong, and sure enough some of the glue has dissolved a seal around the display's outer perimeter
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and entered the chamber under the OLED layer, drenching the most delicate part of the display's PCBs.
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Despite my best efforts to clean it off, there's just too much of the PCBs that are inaccessible behind the display's structure.
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So the display and all the effort we've put into it is toast.
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So as you can imagine, this is a horrendous disaster to have happened and it's incredibly disheartening.
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However, I'm not going to give up and after consulting with Aaron, we've decided to have another go.
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And this means having another brand new TV and brand new acrylic layers.
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Ouch.
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This time around I'm taking no chances.
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The tiny hairline gap around the TV's front glass, where the glue entered through last time and dissolved the seal, is to be filled with a low-modulus,
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high-adhesion silicon to prevent the glue from entering the TV again.
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And I've also brought in my friend Lamar to help with the gluing process and provide advice about UV glue best practices, as he knows a lot about it.
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The pouring pattern, for example, needs to be optimised for the TV's aspect ratio, which helps it spread out more evenly to avoid being thin at the perimeter.
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As you can see, this time around the application of the first acrylic layer goes really well,
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and thanks to having made a dramatic increase to the quantity of glue used,
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the bubbles are extremely easy to push to the edges for a really good quality finish.
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And after curing it with the UV lights, it's straight on with the touch layer.
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One major change we're making here is to have its manufacturer, ProDisplay, pre-apply a brand new one onto our front acrylic layer, which we took over to them.
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Having them apply it means that they can use the proper intended application procedure for these touch foils.
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And for us, it eliminates an entire gluing session and ensures that it's tightly applied with no ripples or undulations.
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And they've done a fantastic job.
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While this new touch layer slash front acrylic combo also appears to be going on smoothly, it's still incredibly stressful and tiring to squeeze out all of the bubbles knowing
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that just one wrong move or too much pressure could throw the entire project back into jeopardy.
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Still, eventually we get all of the bubbles out and begin the final curing process.
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Due to the acrylic's special hard coat layer, it actually blocks most of the UV light, so So this time we've decided to mount the UV lights much further away
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and have them curing for a much longer period of time.
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This keeps the surface temperature lower which is better for the glue
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and ensures that there are no mist areas as the light is more spread out.
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So now it's the moment of truth.
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Have all our efforts paid off?
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Whoa!
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Look at that!
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This is an almost factory level finish quality.
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No bubbles, no delamination, not even a speck of dust.
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The glue has adhered all of the different layers together beautifully and has made them optically unified, which looks incredible.
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But after all this, does the TV still work?
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Well, moments before peeling off the protective film, I did test it out.
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As you can see, the TV has survived this second attempt unscathed.
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However, I have not tried the touch layer yet.
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So, it's the moment of truth.
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Is this going to work?
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Oh yes!
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Oh yes!
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Look at that!
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Oh yeah!
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Oh wow!
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you can I cannot describe to you how satisfying this is
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to see a completely flawless OLED touchscreen that's 88 inches
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and 8k so I would say this is probably pretty unique in the entire world
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so it's going to certainly make the project stand out.
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However as you can see we presently don't have a bezel
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because we had to avoid using paint this time as the
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touch layer needed the acrylic surface to be cleaned before application so we're going to do it with a different technique.
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This technique requires the application of a full sheet of black
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vinyl wrap to the entire display with the intention being to
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use a custom made jig to score a line at a consistent distance in from the outer perimeter.
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This allows the central section of the vinyl to be completely removed, leaving behind an absolutely perfect bezel that finishes off the display beautifully.
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Ignoring the protective film that will take off the bezel later, the gravity of what we've achieved really sets in here.
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This is a massive 88 inch top-of-the-line OLED TV that's been DIY'd to be a real capacitive touchscreen.
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And on top of all that, it really does look like a giant replacement iPhone panel.
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Just wild.
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Well, it has taken literally weeks to get to this stage,
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and boy, am I relieved because the whole project was hinging on this display being able to be made, basically.
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And now Now that we have made it and it's successful and it's so flawless, which is amazing to be honest,
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it's time to build the frame that will not only support the display, but also all of the aesthetic elements that will make it look like an iPhone.
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Now it's pretty much inevitable that the final phone is going to be extremely heavy, so I need to do everything that I can to make it as light as possible.
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So for the frame, I'm using a combination of aluminium trusses and sheeting.
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However, as there are so many components that need to be fitted inside, I need to first make a digital model so
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that I don't miss out the mounting holes for even just a single part.
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And yes, this has been made in SketchUp.
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You know, I'm a pro, using pro software.
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Yeah.
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Anyway, as you can imagine, there are about a billion of these openings and mounting holes, so it takes rather a long time to cut it all out, especially as it needs to be millimeter perfect.
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But, so long as I've done a precise enough job, it should save time in the long run.
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One thing to note is
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that these large box section trusses are not only required around the outer perimeter but also in the centre,
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as all of the phone's weight will be focused on this area alone.
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This is because the phone's entire weight will be resting on this single point,
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as the plan is to have it able to be rotated on some sort of stand.
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It's a big challenge in and of itself, so we'll see how I get on with that.
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But for now, I have a really rigid frame that will not only support the TV,
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but also provide plenty of space for all of the components that have to be fitted inside, starting with the TV's own PCBs.
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These handle both the video signal processing and power delivery, and with this particular TV, there are a ton of them.
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I've honestly never seen a power supply require so much PCB area, and there's only just enough room for it all to squeeze in.
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Here you can see why my cutting plan was absolutely essential, as there are so many different wires and ribbon cables that need to be routed to specific locations.
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As these boards generate some amount of heat as well, it's necessary to install some fans to circulate the air and keep them cool.
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These boards being added will allow the TV to operate as normal, and it won't even know that it's in a different chassis.
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However, we'll still need to drive a display signal to them to make the TV operate like a smartphone.
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And the problem is that iOS, the operating system that makes an iPhone an iPhone, is extremely locked down.
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And there's presently no way of using it with an external touchscreen display without resorting to emulation.
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This means that I'm going to have to get creative and do perhaps ironically the most un-Apple thing ever.
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Use their competitor, Android.
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You see, there's a custom branch of Android called Bliss OS that can be installed on normal PC hardware,
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and it provides full compatibility with plug-in touchscreen interfaces like the one we've installed.
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It can be a bit tricky to run on the latest hardware, however, with help from Lamar, we've managed to find a golden selection of components
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that work perfectly with it and provide massive performance gains over a typical smartphone by several orders of magnitude.
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After consolidating all of these parts together to keep them neat, it can be dropped inside the frame and hooked up to the TV's input.
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This PC hardware takes up an entire section due to its size, but the top area remains free for another key aspect of the build, the camera system.
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Apple puts great emphasis on the cameras they use in their phones, with more than one included for the best image quality at different focal lengths lengths.
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A stunning job in miniaturization to be sure, but you still can't beat a full-frame camera for light gathering ability.
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The one Aaron and I have decided on here is a Canon R5, which is a 45 megapixel full-frame beast,
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and with a 28mm lens it should do a great job as the main camera.
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As it's going to be sealed inside the frame though, how on earth is it going to be used to take photographs?
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Well, it's actually got full wireless capabilities,
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which means that it can be connected to from the Android environment for full remote control and delivery of images.
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Not bad.
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So that's the main camera sorted, but what about something for the telephoto shots?
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Well, this is where a second camera can come into play.
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This one is an RX10 Mark IV and it has the ability to zoom to the equivalent of 600mm.
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This is extreme telephoto and is quite a bit more than what you'd expect from a normal iPhone.
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At this zoom level though, its lens is really long, so how on earth are we going to fit it into the phone chassis?
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Well, we can actually copy what smartphones do by installing a mirror at 45 degrees.
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This basically bounces all the light towards the camera so that it gets a view out through its respective camera ring.
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It's even motorized so that its view of the world can be moved up and down.
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It's quite an important feature for actually aiming it at things, considering that the final phone won't be very manoeuvrable.
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So, things are really starting to come together, but there's still one more component to add to this area.
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The flashlight.
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Now as pretty much every aspect of this build is being pushed to the maximum, I think we need to do the same for the flashlight.
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So I'm going to use one of these.
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Despite appearing tiny, this LED is actually a 400 watt studio grade lighting unit that can deliver a colossal amount of light.
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So much so that it's necessary to use a special water cooling system to keep it cool.
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Oh god, I forgot how bright these things were.
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Yikes.
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Now, as you can see, its light output is very broad and not at all focused.
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So the addition of a lens really helps here, with the light now being thrown far further and appearing much brighter.
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Learning wise there's just about enough room for it next to the cameras, with its power supply squeezing in next to the display boards.
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Lamar has even developed an app for brightness control within the operating system, with various relay based fail safes to protect the LED.
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Things are really looking a bit tight inside here now, and it's about to get even more squashed because it's time to add a speaker system.
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Now simply because of their size, normal smartphones have notoriously bad speaker systems, and you You certainly wouldn't want to have to rely on one for a party, for example.
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However, the TV's original speakers don't even improve things that much.
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Bigger is simply better when it comes to audio.
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However, for obvious reasons, there's no way that I can fit speakers like this inside the casing.
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So I'm going to have to get quite creative
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and use various speaker techniques to maximize the utilization of the space that we have available.
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The first technique I'm going to go with is by building a transmission line subwoofer array.
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To make these, it's a case of joining a special pair of mini subwoofers up to specifically sized acrylic tubes of a calculated length.
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These tubes delay the sound waves coming from the rear of
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the drivers just enough to convert them into being additive rather than subtractive to the sound waves
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that come from the front of the drivers.
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This will allow them to recreate notes as low as 40 Hz, which is excellent given their size.
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As for mid-tone sounds, they can be handled by mid-tone drivers in custom sealed boxes.
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As you can see, I've added plenty of lining to the inside walls for an ultra-clean sound output,
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and the boxes themselves are shaped to fit around the various components to maximise their internal volume,
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with a small air motion transformer tweeter squeezing alongside them to add some sparkle to the high frequencies.
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And they're all powered by two quad-channel amplifiers with 50 watts per channel.
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This setup should result in a very big sound stage that will punch well above its weight.
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If you're interested in building a pair of speakers that utilise these very same techniques, you can find a full video on the topic on the main channel, which includes full build plans as well.
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They really are quite remarkable performers given their size.
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So the internals are almost complete now, but there is an important element to still install – the side buttons.
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Now on a smartphone the side buttons are really the only other thing you'll interact with besides pressing on the screen.
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And because they need to be so massively scaled up, I want the act of pressing them to be an experience in and of itself.
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And to do this, I'm going to be using some air pistons.
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Bear with me here.
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As the air inside them has to squeeze through a tiny hole when the cylinder is moved either in or out, they limit the speed at which each button can be pressed,
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which should enhance the impression of scale and make them feel like they're moving in slow motion.
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To rig these up I've used 3D printing to make a custom chassis for each button,
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which can impact against some electrical contacts for a confirmation of each button press.
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Now unsurprisingly, I don't think that a 3D printed look is really going to match the rest of the build,
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so I've had machined some solid aluminium caps that can fit onto them.
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As buttons go, these look remarkable, and they really do appear to be giant iPhone buttons.
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And it gives an exciting peek into how cool the final aesthetics are going to look.
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I designed these right at the start when I made my digital model, so there are already appropriately sized holds on the perimeter trusses for them to fit in too.
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Hmm.. addictive.
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I really like how these buttons have turned out.
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They feel massive and they look exactly like iPhone buttons.
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However, the perimeter definitely doesn't look like an iPhone, so let's fix that.
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The eagle-eyed of you will have noticed earlier
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that the CAD model features some rims that cap off the outer parts of this perimeter.
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The intention with these is to have them milled out of solid aluminium, just like the buttons.
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The company that's milled these has made a fantastic job of them, and finished them with a lovely brushed appearance.
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I particularly like the corner pieces as they emphasize the shape of the phone and look great when they're screwed in place.
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One difference compared to a real iPhone though is
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that it's been necessary to add some large holes to both the top and bottom rims.
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These are for allowing the sound from the speakers to emanate unobstructed, and to allow for adequate airflow to cool all of the high power hardware inside.
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It's a bit like a big exhaust on a fast car, necessary only because it's just got so much internal power.
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The side rims are much more accurate to a real iPhone though, with openings only for the buttons.
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An interesting thing about these is that they've been specifically designed to be mounted magnetically to the trusses,
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and the reasoning for this is to allow access to some threaded rivets for adding some optional heavy-duty handles,
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as all of the components have added up to such a massive weight
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that these handles are going to be required for transportation purposes, and for maneuvering the final phone onto its stand later.
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Once it is in situ though, the handles can simply be removed
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and all of their bolt holes covered up with the side panels for an ultra clean look.
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Now, as this has been my first properly commissioned project, a huge challenge for me has been tracking time spent on each element of it,
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keeping the receipts organized and counted for each part and also getting it prepared for the final invoice.
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so having mounted all of the components i can now be confident
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that i've not missed any mounting holes
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so it is at last time to bond it to the screen this is a permanent process
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that that relies primarily on glue.
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The glue we're using sticks insanely well to both the rear plastic of the TV
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and the aluminium on the underside of our framework.
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However, it will also be complemented by a few mechanical mounting points as well to make sure
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that it will never ever come away.
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As you can see, for the gluing process, most of the components had to be temporarily removed.
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But now that the screen is in place, they could be refitted, this time carefully routing all of the wires
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and making sure that all the screws are tightened with threadlock.
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It really is quite an impressive amount of internal components
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and it's worth taking a good look
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because you're not going to see it again as it's time to add the last piece of the framework
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that will finalise its strength and make the entire thing ultra rigid.
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And this is of course the back panel.
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As this back panel is screwed in place it converts the frame into a laminated structure, much eliminating any possibility of twisting or bending that can happen to it.
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There are a lot of screws to be tightened up here, but each one is worth it for the strength it will add.
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As you can see it looks cool in a sort of industrial way, but taking a close look you can see that it's actually peppered with more magnets.
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This is because the intention is to use a final acrylic sheet to cover everything up,
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and these magnets allow this sheet to be stealthily mounted in place without any screws being visible.
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Although we'll leave the protective film on for now to peel off later.
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As you can see, this back panel also includes a nice resin printed rim around the camera area, but this still leaves to be added all of the camera area's aesthetic trim.
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This is super fun.
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The camera rings themselves are again solid aluminium, although this time finished with bead blasting for a matte appearance.
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They sit on top of some 3D printed parts to black out their insides and prevent internal reflections from affecting the cameras,
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with some glass discs finishing them off nicely.
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These all get held together by a massively thick sheet of acrylic with an additional grey backing sheet.
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And this too looks absolutely wild, just like a real iPhone camera section, only massive.
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Sticking with the magnetic theme, it also can be held in place with appropriately strong magnets for accessibility reasons and it really completes the look.
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It kind of messes with you because it's a familiar item just on a massive scale.
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What have we done Aaron?
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What have we done?
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Wow.
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So with the project almost complete now there's one last thing to consider and that's how to make it usable.
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It's simply too heavy for one or two
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or even three people to move so the solution is to mount it to a stand.
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Now as I alluded to earlier this is all going to
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be from a single point as it needs to be able to be rotated
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and this is where a car wheel hub is going to come in perfectly.
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The weight capacity of this wheel hub far exceeds the final weight of the phone
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and having already added a super strong mounting point for it within the central truss it can simply be bolted in place.
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What its other side attaches to though needs to also be appropriately heavy-duty,
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so I've made some mounting holes for it in a big aluminium box section that has six millimeter thick walls.
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This box section can then in turn sit on top of a heavy-duty motorized TV stand, which allows us to give it a test fit.
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Because of the weight of the thing, lifting it requires the efforts of several people.
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Amazingly though, once it's bolted in place, the stand holds it beautifully.
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One thing that you might be wondering though is how on earth is it going to be powered?
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Well, I thought we'd have a bit of fun here, so I've designed the USB Pro Maximus,
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or USB Pro Max for short featuring 2000 watts of power delivery it's really just a few 3d printed parts
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that house a standard kettle cable
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but it's pretty darn cool looking it even features some built-in magnets you know
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because we haven't used enough of them already to keep it from falling out
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when it's plugged into its accompanying socket on the bottom side
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of the phone adjacent to this by the way is a
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hidden power button where normally on an iphone there would be a screw so let's test it out
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There's not enough room to have it in portrait mode in my studio unfortunately, but it does all work.
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If you're wondering why it looks so much like iOS rather than Android, it's been beautifully skinned by Aaron's team, and it looks pretty convincing.
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So, it's working.
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This is incredibly satisfying and a huge relief to see it actually in action and that the TV and Touchlayer have survived.
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But the biggest challenge perhaps left is actually to get this over to Aaron's place
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but thankfully I've got a load of people to help me.
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Even so it's still a massive struggle to get it into the van and we only just manage it.
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This project really has stretched all of us to our limits in
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so many different ways and it's wonderful for the end result to be so jaw-droppingly awesome.
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A lot of effort, sure, but it's unique.
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Are you sure you're coming up for a step?
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Step.
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Nice, lower it a little bit.
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That's it.
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Nice.
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I can really see you slowly pulling it in.
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Is it just going here?
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Yep.
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Okay.
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Oh wow.
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Despite being involved in the build process remotely, this is Aaron's first time seeing it in person.
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Oh, it's time.
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I'm wanting to do this the whole time.
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Oh, that's amazing.
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That is absolutely amazing.
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It's like, forget fidget spinners.
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This is it.
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This is technically world's first unbagging of USB-C Pro Max.
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Exactly.
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Oh my god!
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It's like a mace.
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Line it up and... And that's it!
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And the magnets hold it in place.
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Wow!
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Wow!
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Wow!
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Ta-da!
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Oh my god!
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It's so high!
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That's amazing!
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Oh my god!
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This is crazy!
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It makes absolutely no sense to play on this, but...
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Wow!
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The journey to get to this point has been a long one, with many highs and many lows.
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But what Aaron and I had the vision for here may possibly be the world's largest replica smartphone,
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something that Aaron may be able to make official with a world record.
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So I hope you've enjoyed seeing the build process behind the world's largest iPhone.
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Aaron's now going to be doing some crazy stuff with it.
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It will go through the appropriate review process.
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Exactly, yeah.
367
So other than that, if you want to see what he gets up to with it, check out his video, which I'll link to down below.
368
But other than that, I'm Matt.
369
I'm Aaron.
370
And we'll catch you in the next one.
371
Goodbye for now.
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Vocabulary and speaking notes for this lesson
This video has 371 sentences and 5349 words to shadow. The speech runs for 31:57. The speaker talks at a natural 167 words per minute, close to everyday conversation. Only 81% of the words are among the 3,000 most common in English, so the vocabulary is demanding.
Key vocabulary in this video
15 words from the video worth learning, with pronunciation and meaning:
| Word | Pronunciation | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| glue noun | /ɡlu/ | A hard gelatin made by boiling bones and hides, used in solution as an adhesive; or any sticky adhesive substance. |
| layer noun | /ˈleɪ̯ɚ/ | A single thickness of some material covering a surface. |
| mount verb | /maʊnt/ | To get upon; to ascend; to climb. |
| component noun | /kəmˈpoʊ.nənt/ | A smaller, self-contained part of a larger entity. Often refers to a manufactured object that is part of a larger device. |
| perimeter noun | /pɪˈɹɪm.ɪ.tə/ | The sum of the distance of all the lengths of the sides of an object. |
| sheet noun | /ʃit/ | A thin bed cloth used as a covering for a mattress or as a layer over the sleeper. |
| smartphone noun | /ˈsmɑɹtfoʊn/ | A mobile phone with more advanced features and greater computing capacity than a feature phone. |
| bubble noun | /ˈbʌbəl/ | A spherically contained volume of air or other gas in a liquid, commonly a soapy liquid. |
| aluminium noun | /ˌæl.(j)uˈmɪn.i.əm/ | A light, silvery metal extracted from bauxite, and a chemical element (symbol Al) with an atomic number of 13. |
| protective adjective | /pɹəˈtɛk.tɪv/ | Serving or intended to protect. |
| technique noun | /tɛkˈniːk/ | The practical aspects of a given art, occupation etc.; formal requirements. |
| custom noun | /ˈkʌstəm/ | Frequent repetition of the same behavior; way of behavior common to many; ordinary manner; habitual practice; method of doing, living or behaving. |
| hardware noun | /ˈhɑɹdˌwɛɹ/ | Fixtures, equipment, fasteners, tools, and devices used for general-purpose construction and repair of a structure or object. Also such equipment as sold as… |
| seal noun | /siːl/ | A stamp used to impress a design on a soft substance such as wax. |
| squeeze verb | /skwiːz/ | To apply pressure (to something) from two or more sides at once. |
Phrasal verbs you will hear
| Word | Pronunciation | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| pay off verb | To bribe, especially to deter oversight. | |
| spread out verb | Become further apart. | |
| add up to verb | To have a particular effect in combination. | |
| check out verb | To record the departure or withdrawal of someone or something (such as guests, employees, books, etc.). | |
| come away verb | To become separated from something. | |
| come together verb | /ˈkʌm tʊˈɡɛðɚ/ | To assemble; to congregate; to combine. |
| end up verb | To bring to a conclusion. | |
| fall out verb | To come out of something by falling. |
Pronunciation to watch
The speaker uses 73 contractions and reduced forms, such as I'm, I've, we're. Say them the short way, as you hear them.
- The “th” sounds: thin /ˈθɪn/, thick /θɪk/, aesthetic /ɛsˈθɛ.tɪk/, beneath /bɪˈniːθ/, gather /ˈɡæðɚ/
- The “sh” and “zh” sounds: sheet /ʃit/, intention /ɪnˈtɛnʃn̩/, contrast /kənˈt(ʃ)ɹæst/, wash /wɑʃ/, inspiration /ˌɪn.spɪˈɹeɪ.ʃən/
- Long words — get the stress right: perimeter /pɪˈɹɪm.ɪ.tə/, aluminium /ˌæl.(j)uˈmɪn.i.əm/, beautifully /ˈbju.tɪ.fə.li/, incredibly /ɪŋˈkɹɛdɪbli/, manufacturer /ˌmænjʊˈfæktʃəɹə/
How to practise with this video
- Listen to the whole video once without speaking and note the words you do not know.
- Start at 0.75× speed, shadow it sentence by sentence, then go back to normal speed once it feels easy.
- Record yourself and compare with the original, paying attention to words like glue, layer, mount.
Grammar in this video
The structures the speaker uses most, with the exact words from the video:
| Structure | In the video |
|---|---|
| Present perfect have/has + past participle — a past action that still matters now | has set · has managed · I've found |
| Passive voice be + past participle — the focus is on what happens, not who does it | be made · isn't intended · be observed |
| Relative clauses who / which + clause — extra information about a person or thing | layer, which is · lower which is · flawless, which is |
What is the Shadowing Technique?
Shadowing is a science-backed language learning technique originally developed for professional interpreter training and popularized by polyglot Dr. Alexander Arguelles. The method is simple but powerful: you listen to native English audio and immediately repeat it out loud — like a shadow following the speaker with just a 1–2 second delay. Unlike passive listening or grammar drills, shadowing forces your brain and mouth muscles to simultaneously process and reproduce real speech patterns. Research shows it significantly improves pronunciation accuracy, intonation, rhythm, connected speech, listening comprehension, and speaking fluency — making it one of the most effective methods for IELTS Speaking preparation and real-world English communication.