Практика Shadowing: Why Single-Origin Coffee Is So Expensive | So Expensive | Business Insider - Изучайте разговорный английский с YouTube
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To produce one pound of coffee beans,
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To produce one pound of coffee beans,
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farmers need to harvest more than 1,500 of these cherries.
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Each one contains two seeds that will be sorted,
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processed and roasted before they reach your cup.
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In 2022, the average US price for a pound of coffee was $5.89.
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But there's a specialty category called single-origin coffee that can easily cost over $30 per pound.
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Some exclusive harvests cost over $80 per pound.
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So what makes this coffee so special?
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And why is it so expensive?
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It's November in Yeri County,
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Kenya, and the coffee harvest is in full swing.
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There are over 12.5 million coffee farms in the world.
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Almost 95% are owned by smallholders like Joseph.
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He runs a one-acre farm,
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part of which he inherited from his parents.
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Coffee is all about quality.
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If you produce coffee with a higher quality,
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the higher prices you get for your coffee.
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Coffee grows differently depending on the altitude, climate, soil and sun.
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Farms here sit around 1700 metres above sea level in rich volcanic soil.
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The coffee grows very slow,
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it takes long time to mature.
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And the longer coffee takes time to mature, the better the quality.
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Almost everywhere, every farmer is growing coffee.
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High altitude coffee produces fruity and floral flavours.
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Drinking coffee brewed from beans exclusively from one region ensures that those distinct flavors come through.
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It's what's called single-origin coffee.
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The quality and unique taste are the biggest reasons it can cost so much.
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But achieving that quality isn't easy.
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The terrain here is too uneven for machines,
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so farmers pick the coffee by hand.
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One cherry at a time.
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For coffee, ripeness is key.
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Mary has been growing coffee for over 25 years.
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Maybe two or three weeks,
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or three weeks, or three weeks.
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This is about five hundred years.
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Mary has been growing coffee for over 25 years.
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This is the pot.
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I can inhale it with bamboo.
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This is about 50-something.
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Each branch has ripe and unripe cherries,
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so she has to pay close attention while picking.
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The way coffee is harvested here in Kenya is very different from how it's done in Brazil,
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the world's largest coffee producer.
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On huge farms with flat terrain, the harvest is mechanised.
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The trees are at a lower elevation,
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and the yields are higher.
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Mechanised production is more efficient,
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but this efficiency can hurt quality control.
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When the whole tree is picked at once,
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ripe and unripe cherries are lumped together.
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This is commodity coffee, destined for mass production and industrial use.
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Its price is low and volatile.
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The highest quality coffee is called Specialty Coffee.
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This coffee has unique attributes that expert tasters,
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called Q graders, rate the highest.
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Single origin coffee is often rated at the highest end of Specialty Coffee because of its distinct flavors.
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Both specialty coffee and a lot of commodity coffee come from the same plant, Coffea Arabica.
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But not all Arabica coffee is created equal.
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This can of ground coffee is 100% Arabica.
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It costs around $8 a pound.
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In 2022, a single-origin coffee grown in Panama sold for over $6,000 a pound at auction,
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also 100% Arabica.
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The better the flavour and the smaller the harvest,
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the more expensive the coffee.
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Back at Mary's farm, there's still work to be done.
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After harvesting, workers sort the cherries to weed out any defects.
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These negatively impact the flavor and lower the price of the coffee.
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But they need to work quickly.
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Processing coffee soon after harvest is key to maintaining its quality.
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infrastructure is expensive, so most farms in Kenya share centralized facilities.
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Over a thousand farmers from the region bring their coffee here.
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Each processing method has a different impact on taste.
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But they all have the same end goal.
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Separate the seed from the fruit.
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These are the five stages of coffee processing.
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The red cherry, the wet parchment,
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dry parchment, green coffee, and roasted coffee beans.
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This is the washed process.
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It's the most common way to process coffee in Kenya.
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After weighing and inspecting the coffee,
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workers remove the outer skin in a process called depulping.
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Then they place it in fermentation tanks where it rests for 12 to 14 hours.
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Fermentation breaks down the mucilage,
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the sticky inner layer of the fruit,
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so it can be washed away.
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The next day, workers push coffee through a series of channels,
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cleaning off the seeds.
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This is also where one of several grading processes takes place.
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Workers separate lower quality, less dense beans,
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which float to the surface.
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Even though these beans sell for less,
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they still provide important income to producers.
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The denser coffee flows to soaking tanks to ensure any remaining mucilage is removed.
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Once the seed is free,
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the coffee flows out of the tanks and onto drying tables.
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Roasters sell coffee either as a blend of beans from different countries or as single origin.
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But there's no officially agreed upon definition of the term.
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It can refer to a farm,
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a cooperative or a country.
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Consumers who buy this type of coffee are usually seeking a particular flavour or aroma.
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The costs of processing, transportation and running a roasting business are all bundled into the price customers pay for coffee.
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It's so expensive to get coffee here.
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Everything from the farm to the port, everything has gone up.
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The boxes where we ship your coffee for subscriptions or at home consumption,
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that packaging has gone up.
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With single origin, single producer,
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when you have the producer's name,
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it's an indicator that we paid more for that coffee because of the relationship.
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If you're paying in the range of $21 to $26,
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dollars, it's because we've invested in these areas that are important to us and we hope are important to them.
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Companies like Metric play an important role in the coffee supply chain.
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Most coffee is consumed outside of the country it's produced in.
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And how coffee is roasted has a big impact on its taste.
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Getting the best flavor out of single-origin coffee requires careful roasting.
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Coffee is roasted in big machines like this.
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Roasters take green coffee and heat it evenly to develop its flavor.
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This is 20 pounds of Costa Rican honey-processed coffee from Solici Cordero,
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which is a husband and wife team in Terra Zoo.
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Jara uses sight, smell, and senses to track how the roast is developing.
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Finding the ideal roast level for each coffee is a skill that takes years to master.
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This tool that I'm using is called the trier
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and it allows us to see the colour of the development as we go through the roast
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and also to smell how the coffee is smelling.
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The green coffee will smell kind of like hay or grass.
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You'll smell it gets sweeter and sweeter and sweeter.
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You can smell some of that acidity come out.
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It'll smell almost vinegary-ish.
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As soon as that vinegar starts to fade just a little bit and there's a sweet fruitiness and a sweet baked goodness,
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that's our finished development.
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Metric roasts coffee for an average of 11 minutes before Harrah releases it into the cooling tray to stop the roasting process.
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By comparison, commodity coffee roasters favour a darker roast,
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which can cover up defects and make a blend of beans from different countries taste more uniform.
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While dark roasts are generally bitter,
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medium and light roasts offer more sweetness and bright acidity.
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You can blast it for a minute
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and a lot of commodity coffee is just blasted as quick as possible
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but it really rushes through all of those phases that develop all of the flavours.
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Going through those steps to get exactly the best qualities out of that coffee.
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We don't add anything to coffee.
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Everything was intrinsically there as the raw product from the farmer,
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from the growing conditions.
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Light roasts also highlight the unique flavours of a region,
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allowing two single-origin coffees to taste very different.
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The tricky part about single-origin versus blend is that you can achieve stellar results with blends and sometimes really subpar with single-origin.
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And the same thing can be the other way around.
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How a coffee is processed can have a big impact on its flavour and price.
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The washed process produces delicious coffee,
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but it's expensive and can be wasteful.
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We use a lot of water,
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and there are many challenges how to dispose that wastewater.
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But we are trying to work on it by recycling the water we are using.
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After spreading out the coffee,
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workers move it to a clean set of tables,
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where they continuously turn it by hand.
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This coffee takes around 14 days to reach a desired moisture content of 11 to 12%.
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The goal is uniform beans free of defects.
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Coffee at this stage is called parchment coffee because of the paper-like layer of material that surrounds the seed.
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Before producers ship the coffee,
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they mill it to remove the parchment.
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This is a small machine used for local consumption.
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When milling large quantities, the coffee goes through another round of grading.
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Each country has its own methods of grading.
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In Kenya, each bean is classified by size.
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The shape and colour of the bean also impact the grade,
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but often the larger, denser beans are the most expensive.
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After months of work, producers are left with what's called green coffee.
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This is the product that will be exported and roasted in consuming countries.
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But this is also when the process becomes more opaque.
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Farmers don't always know how much a buyer pays an exporter,
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so they don't know if they're being cut out of potential profit.
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The benchmark for the price of Arabica coffee follows what's called the C market.
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It's an exchange, like the stock market,
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where traders buy and sell contracts based on the expected future value of coffee.
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But it doesn't consider the quality of the coffee.
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And the price is volatile,
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which makes it hard for farmers to operate sustainably.
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In 2019, the average closing price was $1.02 per pound,
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its lowest point that year, 87 cents.
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Despite inflation and increased cost of production,
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the sea market is almost the same as it was in 1980.
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Joseph is able to operate profitably,
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but that isn't the case for many farmers around the world.
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A 2019 study found that 44% of smallholder coffee farmers were living in poverty.
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Specialty coffee is bought at a premium, above the commodity price.
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Joseph makes around $3.18 a pound.
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Due to the high quality of our coffee,
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there is a lot of demand.
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But our expectation is that the demand should go with higher prices.
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He says $4.55 a pound would be more sustainable.
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But his prices have actually decreased over the past few years.
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I don't know the reason why.
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Mostly we are told the world market has spread the coffee.
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But we still need more explanation on why the coffee is going down
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when we are still trying our best to maintain our quality coffee.
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For those who are producing less than five kilos from one tree,
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they are not even breaking even.
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The effort we make to produce that quality coffee,
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I can say we are not well compensated by those prices.
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Growing coffee requires steep investments,
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which don't always pay off for farmers.
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Many roasters in the industry are working towards direct trade partnerships that benefit the coffee producer.
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I'm looking to do two things.
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Source high quality coffees but also establish year over year relationships.
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Some roasters also publish the prices they pay for green coffee.
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the level of transparency varies.
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We as roasters need to do our job to educate consumers
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as to the difference between a product from Colombia that's sourced fairly,
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that's sourced with full transparency,
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and a product from Colombia that has no traceability and is cheap.
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If it's cheap coffee, that means that somebody in the supply chain is not making it,
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and chances are it's going to be the producer.
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They're the ones that lost.
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At retail, coffee from this region of Kenya has sold for $22.50 for a 12-ounce bag.
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That's over nine times what the farmers are paid.
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But just comparing those two numbers doesn't tell the whole story.
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Even when producers are paid a premium,
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there will always be a markup between coffee cherries and roasted coffee.
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Roasters typically pay more for single-origin coffee,
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but there's no definitive premium.
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The real truth of it is that you can buy coffee at commodity pricing that actually meets specialty standards.
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For so long, the market has been so low
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and then the quality has been so high that producers need to sell their coffee.
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They need to earn a living because if they're not earning enough to cover the cost of production,
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not earning enough to just meet the minimum requirements to have a decent way of life,
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they're going to be edged out.
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That is what's happening all over the world.
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Many throughout the specialty coffee industry are working towards more transparency,
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better pay for producers, and more access to research and best practices.
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Ultimately, when coffee prices are low,
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the producers are the ones hurt the most.
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